Mongolia: The heart of horse culture and land of eternal blue sky.


Why Mongolia?

This may seem like a very unlikely explanation coming from someone who is not traditionally any good with surprises…  But, Mongolia was a very different style of destination choice for us… I officially managed to surprise Gavin for his not-to-be-talked-about significant turning of age.

He knew we had two weeks off, but it wasn’t until he woke up on the morning of his birthday and I handed him his passport, complete with a Mongolian visa inside, that he found out where we were going; AND that he now had three and a half hours to go and get kitted out with clothes and boots suitable for horse trekking across the steppe of Mongolia!

We have both grown up riding horses and so the challenge of a horse ride was not completely unexpected; the destination choice of Mongolia was a bucket list destination for both of us!


What we loved most…

Hustai National Park

We had an amazing day trip out to Hustai National Park. Through our hostel in Ulan Batar we found a driver to take us, and headed for Mongolia’s Töv Province. The park is a huge conservation area, known for its population of wild takhi (Przewalski’s horse) and its ger (yurt) camps.

Despite the language barrier, Gavin and our driver Tuvchuu, spent most of the two hour trip discussing every kind of truck brand that passed; and the pros and cons of each…

“Here comes a Daewoo….”

Whilst looking to the other side of the road, I admired the hundreds of horses, goats and Gers we passed, and the mountains that seemed to unfold forever!

The Przewalski horse, for which the park is famous for, are renowned as being the only surviving species of wild horse that remains; officially the last truly wild horses on the planet. It was surreal to be there and see them in the wild.


Riding across the Mongolian steppe

That was what we had come for!

We booked a trek with SteppeRiders, staying two nights at their yurt camp, one night in Bogd Khan Uul National Park and one night with a nomadic herder family.

The first day of our trek took us through forests and villages, emerging for a first night camped out in the forest near the ruined Manzushir Monastery. It was pretty awesome to wander the deserted monastery site, trying to comprehend the size of Buddhism in Mongolia before the repression, share a Mongolian meal, and pinch ourselves that we were really actually here…

Looking down the valley towards our campsite in the shelter of the trees down below.

The next day we emerged from the forest out onto the infinite rolling hills of the steppe. It was like nothing we have seen before; there are no fences, no buildings, no boundaries, no borders in sight… Just the open hills, and the sound of your horse underneath you.

Resting up post-horse-riding muscles with a warm tea inside our ger camp for the night.
My companion and immediate view for the next few days.

Staying with a nomadic family was an unforgettable experience. We hobbled our horses for the night and just hung out in the open spaces amongst the three yurts that the family had set up for their summer pastures. It was breathtaking in vastness – there wasn’t a road for miles – and inspiring to see how they lived so independently and self-sufficiently, making the most of their livestock and the routines that they had practiced for generations.

The mares being milked in the evening; the milk collected to make ‘airag’ (fermented horse milk).
Inside the ger looking out; a huge barrel of ‘airag’ fermenting by the door.
A sea of goats! In for milking.

Mongolian Shagai

Move over fidget-spinners… Our driver Tuvchuu introduced us to a whole new craze; Mongolian Shagai. Basically a very literal variation of knucklebones.

And dammit, I was beaten by both him and Gavin!

I am sure with a bit more practice…

One thing that challenged us…

Although we rode in Russian-style saddles, the horsemen all used traditional Mongolian saddles. They sort of manage to perch above the wooden frame, and mostly ride standing up in the stirrups.

Our herder, Buena’s beautiful wooden Mongolian-style saddle.

We had more basically styled Russian saddles, and although they had more leather in than the herders’ ones; they were still very much made of wood… And let me tell you, that after three days of solid riding, the wooden framing becomes VERY noticeable!

I was glad for having chosen riding jodhpurs that offered a touch more padding in the bottom region, but was also very grateful for one of the horsemen noticing the uneven padding in my well-worn saddle, and adding extra to it on the second day. An appreciated gesture… albeit slightly too late by that time anyway!


Where we stayed…

  • Ulaanbaatar: Zaya Hostel [very well organised hostel in centre of town; nice common spaces; friendly and knowledgeable staff; breakfast included; airport pickup; walking distance to restaurants, supermarkets].
  • Bogd Khan Uul Park: SteppeRiders [horse trekking agency from the outskirts of Ulanabaatar; well-organised, with great communication and a whole range of trek lengths/abilities].

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