Worried about taking the train in India? Don’t be. Here’s our complete guide.

Have you even really been to India if you haven’t taken an Indian train? Train travel in India is more than just a means of transport.  It truly is part of the culture and experience of travel in India. 

The India train network spans 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations so it’s fairly safe to say you can travel between almost any two destinations in India by train.

I’m going to detail an entire travel guide to India trains below. But the first piece of advice I have to share is simply; take the train.

Don’t be afraid of taking trains in India.  Don’t be worried they’re crowded or that you might not understand where to get on or off.  Taking a train in India is an entire experience. 

• Where to start? 
• Booking tickets 
• Classes of train travel
• How much does it cost? 
• Car and carriage numbering
• Facilities on board
• Indian train stations
• Train travel in India with kids
• Questions (and answers) about train travel in India
• Download the right apps 

Do you need an advance reservation for train travel in India?

Yes, you definitely need a reservation for train travel in India.  Trains often get booked out weeks or even months in advance.  

It used to be common that some trains had a reserved Foreign Tourist Quota (seats reserved for tourists making last minute reservations to important destinations) but with the advancement of online bookings this can’t be counted on.  I recommend making your booking as far in advance as possible.  

Booking tickets for train travel in India

Because trains in India get booked in advance I recommend buying tickets online before you travel. 

If you have a contact or friend in India it might be easier to book through them ahead of time.  Otherwise there are essentially 3 options for you to book train travel in India: 

• Go to a railway station and book in person when you arrive
• Book online directly from Indian Railways at the IRCTC website www.irctc.co.in
• Book online through third party 12GoAsia. 

Booking online through ticketing agency 12go.asia is without doubt the easiest and most straightforward option.  

This is the option we used to book all our train travel in India. But I will detail both online options below. 

Online option 1: Book online directly from Indian Railways IRCTC website

This is not the most straightforward option but once you are registered you’ll have access to all routes, trains, classes and ticket types at a lower cost than booking through a third party.  (This is a less reviewed way of booking train travel in India as up until 2016 IRCTC did not accept international credit cards).  

However (in theory) it works now from overseas.  

1. First you need to register an account with IRCTC. Go to www.irctc.co.in and click REGISTER top right. Enter the details to create an account.
2. Choose a username and enter your mobile number with country code (it will now accept international country codes). 
3. Check your emails for the Online Rail Ticket Reservation User Registration Confirmation.  Click the link to activate your account and enter your chosen ID and password to log in.  
4. Fill in the destination and boarding point along with the date of desired journey.  
5. Check the list of times and options for different classes of train travel and select your choice.  A new window opens for filling the required passenger details.  
6. Make your payment through the preferred payment gateway. 
7. Check your emails for a message of confirmation and your electronic ticket details.  

Online option 2: Book through 12GoAsia

This is the quickest and most reliable booking option we have found.  Albeit you do need to pay a bit extra for the booking fee.  But for sure the ease of service and reliability of this option makes it worth it. 

The website is very straightforward. Enter your destination details and desired date of journey and the different timing options and classes will be displayed if available.  

Your electronic ticket will be emailed to you.  

This is all you need to show at the train station and/or to the guard or attendant on board. 

Understanding classes of train travel in India

There are 8 classes of seats and accommodation to purchase for train travel in India. Not all of them are available on every train.  

We have tried nearly all classes now and can recommend different options for distances and comfort (and adventure) around India.  

These are the train classes listed below in descending order according to price per fare. 

First Class (1A)

This is the most expensive class of train travel in India.  There are 4-berth cabins and 2-berth coupes available on popular routes.  The main difference between this class and 2-Tier AC is that First Class has a lockable cabin door for complete privacy. 

Second AC / 2-Tier AC (2A)

A comfortable class for overnight travel.  

2-Tier AC has 4 berths per cabin with bedding provided.  The only shortfall on 2A class is that it lacks a lockable door on the cabin (a curtain is provided instead). 

Third AC / 3-Tier AC (3A)

Air-conditioned coach cabin with 64 berths per carriage.  The bottom berth is folded down during the day (with 3 numbers above each seating space) for seated travel.  Bedding is provided.  

Sleeper Class (SL)

The most common class of train travel in India. Sleeper (SL) has regular sleeping coaches with three berths vertically facing each other but without any air conditioning.

This is probably our favourite train travel experience in India.  I would recommend Sleeper for an early morning and short distance journey purely for the experience. 

AC Executive chair class (EC)

A seated air-conditioned class with four seats in a row and spacious seating and legroom.  AC Executive Chair Class is now only found on the popular Shatabdi Express, Vande Bharat Express &Tejas Express trains. 

Seated AC / AC Chair Car (CC)

Air-conditioned coach with five seats in a row. 

General / Second Class Seats (2S, II)

Open plan cars with wooden or padded plastic seats.  This is the most basic and cheapest class of travel (recommended for short daytime journeys when you’re feeling up for it).  Seats are often non-reserved so you will need to join the rush on entering 2S…  

How much does it cost to ride trains in India? 

Fares vary for train travel in India depending on class and distance (obviously).  And ticket prices will also be higher booking through a third party (like 12GoAsia).  

Here are example ticket prices for the popular 3-hour(ish) train journey New Delhi to Agra: 

• First Class (1A): 1510 INR
• Extended AC Chair (EC): 1285 INR
• 2-Tier AC (2a): 945 INR
• 3-Tier AC (3A): 740 INR
• AC Chair Class (CC): 640 INR
• Sleeper (SL): 242 INR

Navigating Indian train stations

This almost warrants documenting as an entire adventure in itself.  Navigating Indian train stations can be intense. But there are also smaller stations and stops where you will be offered help and food and a place to sit (even if you weren’t looking for it).

For us, we started off this trip departing from Kolkata Railway Station (Howrah) which is enormous.  But it functions like clockwork with systems that have been improved upon and working for decades.  (Albeit that is if you can find your name on the typewriter-printed paper charts pinned to wall to allocate seating!).  

Smaller stations (like Jodhpur, Jaisalmer etc) give you a bit of breathing room to understand how an Indian train station functions. 

There are ticket booking lines, electronic arrival and departure screens, an enquiry booth, security checks, shops and stalls, bathrooms, waiting rooms and the sound of chai wallahs making their call.  

And there is often a waiting room for customers booked in any of the AC classes.  This will be signposted but otherwise ask at an enquiry counter (or any security guard will point you in the right direction).  It is sometimes called a ‘retiring room’… 

Car and carriage numbering

This is important. (Learn from our mistakes here).  Coaches/carriages on longer distance Indian trains are numbered according to class like this: 

• AC1: Car H1, H2, H3 (1, 2 and 3 are the number of coaches of that class on the train)
• 2A/2-Tier: Car A1, A2, A3 etc.
• 3A/3-Tier: Car B1, B2, B3 etc.
• AC Chair Car: Car C1, C2, C3 etc.
• Sleeper/SL: Car S1, S2, S3 etc. 

So for example, if you have booked a 3-Tier AC ticket your booking status will show: 

• B2/25/Lower

Where B2 is the car number and 25 is the seat number (lower berth).

Each carriage/car is labelled on the outside with the according number (eg. B1 or B2) and some stations have electronic boards above the platform to let you know which car is lined up at that spot on the platform. 

We underestimated the importance of getting on the correct train car in Jodhpur on our first trip. We saw ‘2-Tier’ and just jumped on.  The Ranikhet Express has over 24 carriages and it’s a long way to run with two backpacks on and two kids in tow to find your correct car as the train signal is sounding!  

Check your ticket ahead of time and determine your Car Number, Class and Seat.

Train travel in India with kids

Travelling in India with kids adds to the adventure.  You need to have your wits about you navigating busy train stations (but that’s pretty standard advice for travel with children in general).  

There is a discount for purchasing a child ticket on Indian trains, but unless your child is very young (and small in size) I recommend booking a full ticket and entire berth or seat.  

Plan ahead and bring snacks and water.  There are stops along the way and attendants selling small juices, water and food as you go.  But it’s a given rule to always be prepared with snacks for the kids. 

Bring toilet paper and wet-wipes or soap to make efforts for hygiene even on Indian trains.  Little hands touch all kinds of things and it will give you peace of mind to know you are at least making all attempts to keep things as hygienic as possible. 

What about food on long trains?

On long distance trains there will often be the option to purchase the food-included option when buying your ticket online.  But don’t panic it you can’t see this option available.  

There aren’t restaurant of buffet cars on Indian Railways but on long distance trains there are plenty of train attendants who will come to your cabin or car and ask if you would like to order food.  

The attendant may come by with the box of food for breakfast (our experience travelling long distance train Kolkata to Mumbai).  And for lunch and dinner the attendant will come by earlier and take your order. 

It is not expensive and will likely have a veg/non-veg option to choose from. 

For snacks, drinks, water and chai on the popular routes the attendants come through the cars regularly selling different options for a few rupees.

What are the facilities like?

As above, the facilities available on different train lines and in stations are varied depending on which class you are travelling.  And which train station you are stopping at. 

In our experience, the AC classes (1A, 2AC, 3AC) have two toilets in each carriage.  One western style toilet and one squat toilet.  There should be water to wash your hands but unless you are in First Class there almost definitely won’t be toilet paper provided. (Plan ahead with that one). 

Train stations also have varied toilet facilities, waiting rooms and shops selling everything from wet-wipes to water and colouring-in books for kids.  

It really depends on the size of city and station.  But if you have any doubts or questions, don’t be afraid to ask someone for help. 

What are the toilets like?

I’m not going to lie.  We were nervous about this aspect of train travel in India but I can honestly say the toilet experience turned out to be better/less-disappointing than we dared anticipate.  (Perhaps we are getting concerningly more seasoned?!). 

Train toilet facilities are pretty much as expected.  Basic but functional and varying by class and capacity.  

Each carriage has 1-2 toilets and in 1A and 2A there is often one western option.  There isn’t likely soap and/or toilet paper (be prepared with that).  But because tickets are pre-purchased in the AC carriages and seating is assigned there isn’t a problem of over-crowding.  

And thankfully(?) because of this and due to the fact that the toilets are so basic they are usually in reasonably sanitary condition.

Can you leave the train to buy water and snacks? 

This always a worry.  In theory the latest IXIGO app should indicate how long a stop will be at a station.  But we found it more reliable the old fashioned way and asked the nearest guard (or passenger) if we had time to run and grab snacks. 

Otherwise don’t stress yourself about missing the train or being left behind in the middle of rural India somewhere.  Each train we have travelled on has friendly chai wallah’s that will sound out their call throughout the train, “Chai, chai, pani, chai…”.  

Just go with what is on offer and enjoy the adventure!

Recharging mobiles and devices

There are shaver sockets in 1A, 2A and 3A sleeper cars which can be used to recharge mobile phones and devices.  

The sockets sometimes do work…

What are the beds and sheets like? 

In 1A, 2A and 3A fresh sheets and pillowcases are provided for anything above a medium distance journey.  They have been bleached and pressed to perfection and come packaged per passenger in a paper bag.  

The beds are basic berths as the pictures depict.  It’s hot up on the top bunk in Sleeper Class but in AC the temperature is controlled and it is a comfortable way to travel. 

The bed length is standard and long enough (even for us as tall NZ-travellers) to sleep comfortably.  And there is ample storage under the bottom bunk for luggage. 

Do the trains run on time?

India has a massive railway network and many different types of train (local, express, long-distance) so punctuality can’t always be relied on.  Perhaps we were lucky, but in our experience each of the trains we have taken departed right on time.  

The IXIGO app is useful for checking the status of your train departure.  

How do you know where to get off?

Station nameboards are clearly shown at every station.  If you have service on your mobile you can check ahead on Google Maps (I called this the old fashioned way before we braved the app).  But the app actually has an alarm that can be set to warn you when your station is coming up. 

Otherwise, ask someone in your carriage.  People are friendly and happy to help.  (The chances are you won’t even have to ask and people will give you a heads up you are nearly at your station).  

Useful apps to download for train travel in India

There are many (far too many) different apps for train travel in India including plenty of third party apps.  We recommend the IRCTC app or Ixigo; both are available for iPhone and android.  

IRCTC Connect

With this app you can check train schedules between destinations and input your PNR to check the status of your booking (and timing of your train).  The app has real-time details of whether your train is running on schedule and will tell you which platform you are departing from. 

IXIGO Indian Rail App

This is the official Rail info app of Ixigo.com travel planner website. It provides most of the information required to plan a train journey in India allowing you to check the trains for your destination, ticket availability etc. You can book tickets on IRCTC from within this Ixigo app for all your train journeys.

Enjoy the adventure that is train travel in India!

The most important tip for train travel in India is simply to enjoy your Indian train travel journey! 

Depending on what sort of experience you are looking for you might find your favourite class of train for travel in India surprises you… 

But regardless of destination and class the journey is an adventure.   You’ll meet locals, try new snacks and you can relax while the Indian countryside rolls on by. 

Enjoy the adventure of train travel in India! 

Where we stayed in India

• Kochi: Hotel Abad Plaza [good location next to mall with supermarket. Multiple restaurants on site; huge buffet breakfast. Swimming pool. Note this hotel is not in the old city of Kochi]. 
• Varanasi: Hotel Temple on Ganges [great location; basic rooms and restaurant. Close to Assi Ghat – good location to explore Varanasi from]. 
• Jaisalmer: The Wanderlust Guesthouse [AMAZING guest-house! We loved staying here and can highly recommend. Great rooms; rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort; awesome camel safaris!
• New Delhi: Hotel Hari Piorko [good location in the heart of the Main Bazaar, Delhi; close to restaurants and train station. No view from rooms]. 

• Kolkata: Hotel Golden Palace [close to New Market with very friendly service and a great in-house room service restaurant]. 
• Mumbai: Gulf Hotel [good location in Colaba few mins walk to Gateway of India. Basic rooms (and very old elevator) and very basic breakfast included. Also lots of (questionably so?) mirrors]. 
• Jodhpur: Raj Mandir Boutique Homestay [good location in Blue City, spacious room with small balcony inside Haveli style home. Tiny little doors, lots of unique decor and artefacts].
• Jaipur: Jaipur Haveli [incredible old haveli home in heart of Jaipur. Highly recommend; beautiful rooms; great attention to detail and very friendly staff and owners]. 
• Agra: Aman Homestay [very friendly family-run homestay with rooftop views of The Taj Mahal. Great rickshaw driver service and home cooked meals].
• Delhi: Smyle Inn [extremely basic hotel in small back alley. Very friendly, helpful staff and simple breakfast included. Just off Main Bazaar]. 

More about travel planning for India and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

• Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
• Hostelworld– The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world. 
• Skyscanner – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
• GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
• SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
• World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before riding those trains in India!

Read more from travel in South Asia

• Taking an overnight train in Pakistan from Islamabad to Karachi. 
• How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
• Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan. 
• Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan. 
• Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
• How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
• Our complete packing list for travel in India.