We have crossed many borders in our travels, but this border is something truly unique. This is the Attari Wagah border between Lahore, Pakistan and Amritsar, India. And every evening at sunset a border ceremony is performed – the Wagah Border Ceremony – known as the Beating Retreat.
Maybe you have crossed the Wagah Border from Amritsar to Lahore? Or perhaps you are visiting Lahore in your travels of Pakistan. But if you are in Lahore, then you are in luck! And be sure to make time to experience the Wagah Border ceremony on the Pakistan side.
Here is everything you need to know for how to visit the Wagah Border Ceremony from Lahore. Including Wagah Border ceremony timings, costs, and all you need to know to be prepared!
History of the Wagah Border
Wagah Border history dates back to when British rulers left the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The border came into existence as the country was divided into Muslim-majority Pakistan and Hindu-majority India.
Relations between the two countries have been tense throughout history. But the Wagah Border ceremony and lowering of the border flags each evening at the Attari-Wagah Border has been a daily military practice and closing of the international border daily since 1959.
Today the Wagah Border between Pakistan and India is an army outpost and one of the main access points to Pakistan.
The Wagah Border ceremony – what is it all about?
It’s slightly tricky to detail the official description of the Wagah Border Ceremony. It is kind of like a competition of which side the soldiers can lift and kick their foot the highest and stomp their foot the hardest to the ground.
The soldiers on both sides fulfil their duty of this unusual ceremony with a passion that is indisputably impressing. Shouting, singing, kicking their feet high, thumping their feet, drumming, singing, dancing, and trying to outdo the other country’s soldiers. (This description alone makes it surely the worlds strangest border!).
The performance of the Wagah Border Ceremony is a symbol of the two countries’ rivalry, as well as a display of brotherhood and cooperation between the two neighbours.
At sunset, after a grand performance of singing and dancing (and very LOUD music), the large iron gates that separate the two countries are opened. And two soldiers from each country lower the flags simultaneously.
The ceremony ends with a polite handshake between the soldiers before they retreat and the gates are slammed closed for the night.
How to visit the Wagah Border ceremony, Pakistan side
The Wagah Border ceremony is performed every evening.
The ceremony is a formal event between Pakistan and India. You don’t need a booking. Seats are available on a first-come, first-serve basis.
How much does it cost?
There is no fare or fee for attending the Wagah Border ceremony for tourists at Attari- Wagah Border. There is no ticket. The parade is a free show.
Wagah Border Ceremony Timings. What time does the ceremony start?
The ceremony starts around 5:00pm – 5:30pm. The ceremony lasts around 30 minutes but there is a lot of hype and music (LOUD) and shouting and support before it officially starts. The timing changes slightly depending on the seasons (because sunset is later in summer). And there is also a time difference on the Indian side (30 minutes difference).
So, it is recommended to arrive at the Wagah Border Ceremony on the Pakistan side around 4:00pm. And trust me there is a lot of hype and energy and lots going on before the ceremony starts. (There is no risk of arriving too early and being bored!).
The security check takes time. So do arrive early.
Where is the Wagah Border located?
The Wagah Border ceremony is located at the India-Pakistan border on the Grand Trunk Road . Wagah is a village in Pakistan on the way to Lahore.
As a little side information, Grand Trunk Road (GT Road) is one of the oldest and longest roads cutting across South Asia. It is over 2,500km and extends from Kabul all the way through Lahore, to Delhi, Kolkata, and Chittagong in Bangladesh.
How to get to the Wagah Border Ceremony from Lahore
It is recommended to arrive at the Wagah Border Ceremony from Lahore around 4:00pm. This means leaving Lahore no later than 3:00pm.
(This may seem early to arrive at the Wagah Border Ceremony from Lahore but when we went in August the stadium was full and the queue to enter the grounds stretched right back to the carpark!).
If you have a driver while you are in Lahore, then this makes it easy to get to the Wagah Border Ceremony. Otherwise, you can ask your hotel to arrange a driver to take you to the border and wait for you during the ceremony and drive you back.
Or you can ask an InDrive taxi driver (Pakistani Uber equivalent) to give you a fixed price to get to the Wagah Border Ceremony from Lahore and back. But do be sure to confirm the fixed price before you embark.
The distance from Lahore to Wagah Border Ceremony on the Pakistan side is just under 30km. However, at that time of day (or any time of day in Lahore) be sure to allow time for traffic.
- Lahore to Wagah Border Ceremony: 46 min (29.1 km) via Canal Rd
I suggest booking a driver to leave Lahore at 3:00pm for arrival at the border around 4:00pm.
What to bring – or what not to bring
You don’t need to bring much to the ceremony except a great energy. (Get ready for an uplifting experience!).
You will have to go through a full security check before entering the ceremony. It’s a good idea to bring a hat and or sunscreen as you will be sitting in the direct sunlight and it is hot (like hot HOT).
We took our small personal backpacks (although we had read that sometimes they do not let you take a backpack inside). So do be aware that it isn’t recommend to bring a bag in case you are not allowed to enter with it.
There is a scanner and a pat down upon entering (this time we had a huge queue to enter). And if you do have a small bag they will check inside the bag.
Snacks, drinks, face painting and flags
You definitely need to get into the spirit of things! There are several small stalls offering face painting and selling ribbons and hats and Pakistani trinkets and souvenirs on entry to the Wagah Border Ceremony. There doesn’t seem to be a fixed price for the face painting (either time we have been to the Pakistan side of the Wagah Border Ceremony). The boys had Pakistani flags and colours painted on their face for a small donation.
There are several small tea houses and basic roadside cafes before you enter the Wagah Border Ceremony. These shops sell large bottles of water, cold drinks, snacks, popcorn, and chai.
Inside the stadium vendors will come around to the grandstand and seating area selling popcorn, cold drinks, water, and snacks.
- Popcorn: 150 PKR
- Water (500ml): 100 PKR
- Soft Drink: 130 PKR
And if you haven’t already got one, they also sell Pakistan flags (and hand fans to attempt to beat the heat!).
After the Wagah Border ceremony
Well, how was that?! We were absolutely buzzing after the ceremony! (And seriously hot and sweaty when we went in August). But what a rush! It is a humbling experience to witness this border ceremony as a foreigner and a reminder of how fortunate we are to be able to cross this border while many from each of these two countries cannot.
There is time afterwards to meet with the soldiers and get a quick photo by the open border and gates. The soldiers will usher you to ‘Point Zero’ where you can get a photo. But do be quick as there is a massive rush and it is then time to escort everyone away from the border.
We hope you enjoyed the Wagah Border ceremony from the Pakistan side!
Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan
Read all about crossing this unusual border from Amritsar to Lahore here.
Where to stay in Lahore
These are the hotels where we stayed in Lahore and can recommend for your visit.
- Gulberg, Lahore: Rose Palace Hotel
Another great friendly hotel choice we recommend (we’ve stayed here three times!) and a good base for your first night in Pakistan. A basic hotel but with large plush rooms. A large buffet breakfast included each morning. Gym onsite and a small shop and bakery just at the entrance to the hotel. - Davis Road, Lahore: Grand Millennium Hotel
We have stayed here multiple times as well. GMH has spacious comfortable rooms with great AC and a basic buffet breakfast upstairs. The location is closer towards the old city and a short rickshaw ride to Savour Foods and Anarkali Bazar.
More about travel planning for Pakistan and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- Hostelworld– The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home).
Read more from travel in South Asia
- Taking an overnight train in Pakistan from Islamabad to Karachi.
- How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
- Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan.
- Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan.
- Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
- How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
- Our complete packing list for travel in India.
