Away With The Steiners

Would you eat a black egg? Visiting Hakone’s Boiling Valley.

Sarah Steiner

Visiting Hakone on a day trip from Tokyo is one of the most popular day-trips in Japan.  It’s relatively easy to make the trip independently (once you have grasped the Tokyo rail systems at least somewhat) and is an interesting adventure for a day in Japan. 

The Hakone area is famed for its abundant nature and hot-springs, and thus its popularity extends to both Japanese and international tourists.  And plus, its only two hours from Tokyo. 

On our first visit to Tokyo we only had a few days to spare, so a day trip to Hakone was perfect for our schedule.  Here’s everything you need to know to make for a smooth day trip in Japan. 

The spectacular colours of Hakone's thermal valley from the gondola. How to make a day trip to Hakone from Tokyo.
The spectacular colours of Hakone’s thermal valley.

The Great Boiling Valley in Hakone

The whole region of Hakone is a hot spring hotspot; hence the attraction for tourists to the many onsen and hot spring baths in the area.  However, the must-see attraction in the Hakone area is a visit to Owakudani (the Great Boiling Valley).  

Owakudani is a volcanic valley formed over 3000 years ago. It is a famous sightseeing spot in Japan where you can see geothermal and thermal volcanic activity from a safe distance. And from a gondola that goes right up the side of the mountain! 

Most of the hot springs in Hakone actually receive their thermal spring water from Owakaduni. So it is an interesting and important sight for this region of Japan. 

Terraced active sulphur vents in the in the valley at Hakone.

The Valley Gondola 

The Hakone Ropeway is a sightseeing gondola in Hakone.  The ropeway is split into three sections, starting from Sounzan Station (which connects with the main train from Odawara via a few stops and changes).  

The most popular route on the gondola runs between Sounzan Station and Owakudani.  But it is possible to take the ropeway further; changing cars at Owakudani. 

A trip on the gondola between the four stations does not take long: 

But the main site to see in the Great Boiling Valley is the first gondola stop at Owakudani. 

A passing car on the Hakone Ropeway.

Note: It’s specified on the Hakone Ropeway website and at the gondola station, that making the journey up the Great Boiling Valley is not recommended for certain people. Due to the influence of the volcanic gases, the ropeway is not recommended for persons with allergic asthma, bronchial disease and others in poor physical condition.

Check the finer details for health specifications here.

Hakone Black Eggs

Once you reach the top of Owakudani and alight at the station, there are several café options for lunch and refreshments. However, the most important thing to try about visiting Hakone is the areas signature black eggs.  These eggs have been cooked in the steaming mineral-laden water from the thermal hot springs. 

And apparently, these thermal black eggs can add years to your life by eating them. 

The eggs are in fact ordinary chicken eggs (nothing more sinister, I’m fairly sure) but the shells turn black due to being boiled in the sulfuric springs.  Signposts confirm the local traditions that depict for each egg eaten, seven years is added to your life… 

The eggs are for sale at Kurotamogo House overlooking the valley.  Five black eggs cost 500 JPY including tax. 

Purchased black eggs from Kurotamogo House.
See! Normal inside?

Hakone Geo Museum 

Right next to the Owakudani Station is the Hakone Geo Museum, split in to two main areas. There is a free information zone and a Geo Hall of exhibits. Entrance to the Geo Hall costs 100 JPY including tax.  

We found the free information zone interesting for a wander around. Signs and information at the museum is largely documented in English and Japanese. 

How to get to Hakone on a day-trip from Tokyo

This, is the fun part!  In all seriousness, it can be overwhelming contemplating how to change from subways and over rails in Tokyo, to bullet trains and gondolas out in rural Japan.  But don’t worry; we’ve got you covered. (Remember, we’re from New Zealand where we don’t have many trains and certainly non that travel at the speed of a bullet; or underground!). 

The end goal of the trip to ride the gondola up to Owadakuni. And the journey to get there is best broken down into steps. 

The following is the easiest (and least stressful) method that we found.  

(If you are planning ahead and want to pre-book, there is a direct train from Shinjuku Station to Hakone called the Romancecar. Details can be found on the Hakone website). 

The first step is to get from Tokyo to Odawara.  And in order to do that, you need to get to Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station. 

Metro: To Shinjuku Station

Take the Tokyo Metro to Shinjuku Station.  Shinjuku Station is Tokyo’s busiest station, and actually the busiest station in the world! (An extra cool reason to visit and start your trip from here). 

Purchase a ticket at Shinjuku for the Odakyu Line to Odawara. 

Train: Shinjuku Station to Odawara

Odawara is located at the east of Hakone Region, and is known as the gateway for guests coming from Tokyo to Hakone.  Odawara station is directly accessible from Shinjuku in Tokyo. 

Take the Odakyu line from Shinjuku Station. The Rapid Express takes between 90 – 100 minutes.

Waiting for our third Japanese train of the day.

Train: Odawara to Hakone-Yumoto and Gora

The Hakone Tozan Railway that runs between Odawara and Gora is Japan’s oldest mountain railway.  Small trains wind through narrow, densely wooded valleys and over many bridges and tunnels.  The train stops at small stations along the way, and changes directions at three major switchbacks. 

Transfer at Odawara Station onto the Hakone-Tozan line.   

This section of the journey is also split into two parts:

Cable Car: Gora to Sounzan 

This is the last piece of the journey to reach the Great Boiling Valley and your gondola ride.  Sounzan Station (the start of the gondola) at the ropeway’s eastern end can be reached in a short cable-car ride from Gora. 

Gondola: Sounzan to Owakudani 

And this is the final leg by gondola up over the incredible Boiling Valley to Owakudani.  There is the option to go further from Owakudani onwards by gondola, and you can purchase tickets from Sounzan Station. However, we found the Boiling Valley interesting (and the journey to get there sufficient!) and were well satisfied with a couple of black eggs and the chance to relax and take it all in. (Along with adding those seven years to our lives in doing so!). 

Ready to board our car on the Hakone Ropeway.

The verdict?

It is a big day out; but I would do it all again. Making a day trip to Hakone is a cool adventure from Tokyo.  And, as complicated as it looks with multiple stops and different modes of transport – gondola, metro, over-rail train and cable car – it is well signposted, and the stations are set up for easy transfers. 

So go eat some black eggs! And – don’t forget to stop by and let us know how many extra years you managed to add to your life… 🙂

More useful links for your travels in East Asia and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

Read more about travel in East Asia

Exit mobile version