Here is everything I wanted to ask and everything you need to know about Day 2 of the Poon Hill Trek from Hille to Ghorepani. Day Two of the Poon Hill Trek is the infamous uphill day. There is no other way to describe it except that today is the day of stairs. The morning is all uphill (well, almost. There is the allure of slight downhill from Hille to the swing bridges but it’s more like the calm before the storm!).
About Day 2 Poon Hill Trek – Hille to Ghorepani
- Starting point: Hille
- Finishing point: Upper Ghorepani
- Distance: 10.4km
- Time: 7 hours (including lunch)
- Total ascent: 1400m
Note that it is also an option on the 4-Day Poon Hill Trek to stay the first night in Ulleri (at the top of THE stairs) and therefore Day 2 is the trek from Ulleri to Ghorepani. We were pleased to have allocated the stairs to Day 2 and first thing in the morning when we were fresh and unhurried.
And by the way, Ghorepani is the village base for the sunrise walk up to the summit of Poon Hill. Ghorepani is much bigger than Hille (the destination on the first night of the trek) and is split into two villages; Lower Ghorepani and Upper Ghorepani. We stayed at Sunny Hotel in Upper Ghorepani.
The start of the stairs (the start of the BIG ‘UP’!)
If you are reading any blog about Day 2 of the Poon Hill Trek (this one included) you can be sure that Day 2 talks (not necessarily fondly) about THE stairs…
There are 3500 stairs today. (And if I am honest with you there are apparently a few more than that after you reach the top of the quoted number). BUT the day starts with some serious anticipation (dread?) of these aforementioned stairs and I think that in hindsight; that is for the best.
We had low expectations of today. (Perhaps better known as dread?). But the beginning of the days trek was beautiful through a small village alongside the river and past a school. We set off at 8:00am (on the dot) and it was an uplifting start to the day to see kids on their way school and a young boy riding his horses across one of the beautiful suspension bridges. (We had been looking forward to the bridges after spotting one yesterday!).
On the other side of the second bridge is the official start of THE stairs. We took a photo to remember the start. And off we set!
About THE stairs (honestly)
Gavin said that to give credit to the stairs they are beautifully made. Each step has been carefully placed. And for each step you can’t help but wonder who placed this; how long has it been here for; and how did they get up here before?
We took it slowly.
Like, really slowly.
Because who was counting or timing anyway? But with pauses and breaks ‘to look at the view’ at each turn of the stairs we did make slow headway UP.
After an hour (or maybe only 40 minutes) we paused at a viewpoint and small teahouse and shop for a can of juice and a break. It was only a short break but it felt good to take the packs off for a bit of a breather. And it was refreshing/comforting to meet other trekkers also stopping for the same break and breather!
It was hard to get going again and to find a rhythm up the stairs after taking our packs off for that first decent break. So it was a slow uphill from here. And most certainly not graceful. We were quiet apart from the encouragement out loud for the kids. And there was the regular pause for appreciation of the brightly coloured villages (clearly a cover-up for a(nother) much-needed breather). I concentrated on putting one foot in front of the other and encouraging the kids – and in doing so lessening the focus on my own stair-focused scowl (as I asked myself whose idea was it to do this hike for the umpteenth time in my head!).
A well-deserved stop for morning tea
Finally. FINALLY. We took the ‘last’ stairs upwards past signs for Ulleri. We had made it to the top of the much-talked-about stairs.
Now, the best part about reaching Ulleri meant that we had made it to the top of the stairs!
Albeit it was not the top of today’s uphill (sorry) but it was to the top of the much-anticipated and much-dreaded 3500 stairs of today. And believe me that was reason to celebrate!
It was actually only 10:40am so in fairness it wasn’t even like the stairs took the best part of the day. It was only morning tea time. But it felt like the most well-deserved cup of chai and drink of cold water (and chocolate bar) that we had ever earned.
We sat at the teahouse restaurant and looked proudly out over beautiful views of the valleys below. And from Ulleri we could see all (ALL) the way back down to Deepak Guesthouse in Hille where we had stayed last night!
Before we went to bed last night Kushum had pointed up the hill and showed us the lights on the guesthouses in Ulleri. It looked a long way up from all the way in Hille. But what a great feeling to be looking back down the trail at what we had accomplished for today! (And did I mention it was only 10:40am?!).
Stopping for lunch in Binthanti
After a satisfying coffee stop in Ulleri; the only problem was that we still had about 1.5 hours to go until lunchtime. Not really so much of a ‘problem’ but rather a secondary challenge after the feeling that surely there could be no more ‘UP’ on this day of the trek!
There was more uphill from Ulleri to Binthanti where the promised lunch stop is. But in fairness the steps aren’t as steep and unrelenting as the mornings officially number stairs.
We trekked slowly and passed through brightly coloured villages on the hillsides. From one we could see all the way to a lone guesthouse in distance on a hillside and Kushum asked if we could see that tiny building. She said to remember that sight as on Day 4 we would pass that by…
We walked past terraced vegetable gardens. And corn and mushrooms drying. There were buffalo stables and baby calves. We passed by a church on the hill. And another primary school where we could hear kids playing.
A group of young local boys walked past us with a portable speaker and Nepali music blaring. It was an uplifting feeling despite the continuous uphill and we trekked onwards slowly with the overall vibe one of pride in our mornings achievement so far.
And finally just after 1:00pm we happily sighted our teahouse lunch stop. (And yes; we let the kids choose *anything they wanted from the menu for lunch to treat ourselves after making it up THE stairs!).
Onward through the jungle
The afternoon section of the trek was almost immediately jungle after lunch. The shade of being in the jungle was welcomed after the heat (and did I mention the uphill?) of the mornings stairs.
There were still some stairs but nothing like this morning. We understood there was still around three hours (THREE!) of walking this afternoon from Binthanti to Ghorepani. But we set out at a slow and steady pace and took our time (again).
I hadn’t pictured Nepal and trekking in the Himalayas to be in jungle. But today was the first day of the next three that had trail through beautiful Rhododendron forest and rich, lush jungle of the mountains.
It was a welcomed change from the morning and a cool(er) respite in the shade. We all appreciated the shade and the sound of the river with bridges to cross and prayer flags flying.
Are there potatoes in the mountains?
A slight disclaimer about offering the kids whatever they wanted on the lunch menu today. And I admit I said anything; but choose something local as they might not have French fries or some of the things on the mountain.
Turns out homemade French fries are of abundance (and of course they are!).
Seeing the sign – ‘Welcome to Ghorepani’
Seeing the welcoming yellow sign at the top of the hill; ‘Welcome to Ghorepani’ was like seeing some kind of glimmering golden light at the end of the tunnel! (I would have quite happily hugged that signpost had it not been right next to the permit checkpoint). Albeit it probably would have been quite fine to do that as we were greeted by two friendly Nepali officers who sighted our permits (Kushum had all that organised) and were very happy to meet the kids and to hear that we were all the way from New Zealand.
This was also the day I decided how much I trusted Kushum with her ETA’s – the way she so confidently gave us an estimated time of arrival to the next destination (whether that be a cold drink or lunch; or today it was the question of how far until our guesthouse in Ghorepani). From here it was a 10 minute walk uphill from ‘Lower Ghorepani’ to ‘Upper Ghorepani’ and then only five minutes to our Guesthouse. It sounded doable. And it was.
Home for the night in Ghorepani – Day 2 Poon Hill Trek
It was a great feeling to arrive at the guesthouse in Ghorepani. I honestly didn’t know if I could make it up the stairs to the communal dining hall on the top floor. But first things first – and the great news – was that we had an attached bathroom WITH hot water for a shower. And believe me it felt like the best shower in the world right at that moment!
We freshened up and trudged up the two flights of stairs to the dining hall for an early dinner. The boys ordered pizza and we were very happy to order two plates of vegetable noodles followed by some hot, sweet milk tea.
Challenges – Day 2 Poon Hill Trek
- The long and steep uphill from Hille to Ulleri (about 800m UP!)
Highlights – Day 2 Poon Hill Trek
- Beautifully coloured hillside villages on the way to Ulleri
- 2x suspension bridges after departing Hille
- A first glimpse of the snow-capped mountains with fantastic views from Ulleri
- Delicious apple pie for dessert at Sunny Hotel (thank you Kyla from @whereistheworld for the recommendation!).
What was Day 2 of the Poon Hill Trek like with kids?
This was the trekking day we were most worried about on the Poon Hill trek with kids. (Ok, and the third day where there was to be a 4:00am wake up for the sunrise summit!). And about halfway up the 3500 stairs towards Ulleri I did question whose ridiculous idea this was to trek Poon Hill with kids!
This was perhaps around the time that Oscar (8) declared once he finished this trek he was never, ever, EVER trekking or hiking anywhere again…
But by the time we got to Ulleri the feeling was uplifting already and (after a decent rest and a Snickers bar) we looked back down at the unrelenting stairs feeling proud to have accomplished that.
The kids did need a lot of encouragement up the mornings stairs. At one stage when Oscar wasn’t taking any steps at all, Gavin lifted him onto his shoulders and started to walk upwards. But the truth was it was too steep to carry him (at 30kg) and it was obvious to Oscar and the rest of us that he was going to have to walk up himself.
So we took it slowly and made the most of moments to stop to encourage the boys (and take big deep breaths ourselves) and take one step at a time.
The afternoon through the jungle was technically easier (and less steep) and refreshing in the shade. And from there it was just the last 10 minute uphill from Lower Ghorepani to Upper Ghorepani to our guesthouse that needed the next boost of encouragement!
The Finer Details – Day 2 – Poon Hill Trek – Hille to Ghorepani
Trekking costs for a Guide and Assistant are the same as for Day 1. And we are very proud to share and recommend 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Agency. We did the Poon Hill Trek with 1x Guide and 1x Trekking Assistant.
The 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Agency specialises in training and employing female guides and assistants for treks in and around the Himalayas in Nepal. They have a fantastic programme empowering and educating their female Guides and Assistants and ensuring they are employed under safe and fair working conditions.
- Guide cost: US$ 35 per day
- Assistant cost: US$ 25 per day
Costs – Poon Hill Trek Day 2 – Hille to Gorephani
Breakfast: Dipak Guesthouse, Hille
- 4x fried eggs @250
- 2x Tibetan bread @350
- 2x Nescafe @150
- 1x small pot milk tea @400
- Total: 1950 NPR ($14.70 USD)
Morning Tea: Ulleri
- 1x mixed fruit juice @250
- 1x sprite @250
- 2x Nescafe @150
- 1L water @150
- 1L water refill @100
- Total: 1050 NPR ($7.90 USD)
Lunch: Banthati
- 2x mixed fruit juice @250
- 1x sprite @300
- 2x veg spaghetti @600
- 2x vege egg fried rice @550
- Total: 3100 NPR ($23.50 USD)
Afternoon Tea: Sunny Hotel, Ghorepani
- 1x small pot milk tea @500
- 1x snickers @200
- Total: 700 NPR ($5.25 USD)
Dinner: Sunny Hotel, Ghorepani
- 2x egg veg noodles @550
- 2x cheese pizza @570
- 1x small pot milk tea @500
- 2x apple pie @400
- Total: 3540 NPR ($26.70 USD)
Other:
- 1x toilet paper @150 NPR
Accommodation in Ghorepani – Day 2 Poon Hill Trek
Accommodation: Sunny Hotel, Ghorepani
- 2x double room with attached bathroom @1000
- Total: 2000 NPR ($15 USD)
Total Costs – Day 2 Poon Hill Trek
This is the total costs for Day 2 of the Poon Hill trek for 2 adults and 2 children including the cost of a Guide and Trekking Assistant.
- Total (Food and Other) Poon Hill Trek Day 2: 10,490 NPR
- Total Accommodation Day 2: 2000 NPR
Total NPR Day 2: 12490 NPR
+ $60 USD Guide and Trekking Assistant
- Day 2 Total: $153.75 USD
See you on the next day!
Read more about Poon Hill Trek
- Poon Hill Trek Day 1 – Pokhara to Nayapul – Nayapul to Hille.
- Poon Hill Trek Day 3 – Poon Hill to Ghorepani to Tadapani.
- Poon Hill Trek Day 4 – Tadapani to Ghandruk.
- Poon Hill Trek Day 5 – Ghandruk to Kimche (Pokhara).
Where we stayed in Kathmandu and Pokhara
We arrived in Kathmandu and we were picked up from the airport by our hotel.
- Kathmandu: Magnificent Hotel
Spacious, clean rooms with great WIFI and very friendly staff. They are very helpful booking tickets and can advise on travel anywhere in Nepal. Great buffet breakfast with fresh fruit and eggs cooked to order. We would recommend staying here.
- Pokhara: Hotel Trip
Cheap, central accommodation in Pokhara. Friendly welcome by hotel staff and a great breakfast.
- Pokhara: Hotel Orchid
Central to Pokhara lakeside with a simple breakfast. Rooms have a balcony with a nice view over Pokhara.
More about travel planning for Nepal and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. (We love the flexible cancellation policy!).
- Hostelworld– The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world.
- Skyscanner – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home).
Read more from travel in South Asia
- Taking an overnight train in Pakistan from Islamabad to Karachi.
- How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
- Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan.
- Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan.
- Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
- How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
- Our complete packing list for travel in India.