Away With The Steiners

Saying Yes in Saudi Arabia: Birthday Celebrations, Hospitality, and a Desert Camel Farm in Dammam.

If there is one cardinal rule we live by on our family travels, that really hit home in Dammam, it’s this: say yes to unexpected invitations.

When we crossed the border into Saudi Arabia, arriving in the eastern coastal city of Dammam, we knew we were at the start of a brand-new adventure.

We had all been super excited about getting to Saudi Arabia! But we genuinely had no idea that our very first 24 hours would set off an incredible month-long journey around the country – or that a chance birthday dinner would land us deep in the Saudi desert, drinking warm camel milk under a golden sunset like some kind of fairytale image! 

Here is the story of how a birthday celebration in Dammam turned into one of our absolute favourite (another of our favourite) travel memories in Saudi Arabia.

A Special Birthday at Dammam’s Heritage Village

We arrived in Dammam right on Gavin’s birthday. After chilling out and enjoying a quiet  morning to recover from our border crossing from Bahrain, we headed out in the late afternoon to explore the city’s famous Heritage Village.

Part museum and part traditional restaurant, the Heritage Village is an incredible five-story castle-like complex that showcases the distinct history, architecture, and culture of Saudi Arabia’s different regions.

The Heritage Village in Dammam.
The Heritage Village in Dammam.

Dammam Heritage Village

We spent our early evening wandering through the museum upstairs, admiring vintage cars, historical coins, and intricate dioramas of traditional mud-brick and stone homes. We even stopped by the village bakery inside, where the boys watched bakers slap fresh dough inside a blazing-hot traditional clay oven, handing us steaming, puffy flatbread straight out of the fire.

When it came time for dinner, we were led into a traditional dining booth lined with floor cushions. 

Remember, this was only our first day in Saudi Arabia and we were in awe with how this country was so far! We tucked into a massive, fragrant chicken biryani, completely content with how Gavin’s birthday was turning out.

Then, local hospitality kicked in.

Chicken Biryani and the scent of delicious Oud burning.

Dressed Like Royalty and an Unforgettable Welcome

The friendly staff and local guests at the Heritage Village realised it was Gavin’s birthday and instantly went above and beyond to make the night even more magical.

First, they brought out traditional Saudi attire. Before we knew it, Gavin was dressed in a full thobe and ghutra, looking like he was straight out of the southern mountains! Harry and Oscar were handed centuries-old antique swords to examine, and I was outfitted in a gorgeous traditional gown and head covering.

Gavin being styled the traditional way with new friends Mr Saad and Mr Abdulraham.
Me in the incredibly colourful Saudi traditional dress.

Arabic Coffee with the Owner

As we sat drinking cardamom-infused Arabic coffee (Qahwa), the local owner and his friends joined us. They brought out sweet birthday treats made with fresh local dates and warm, pancake-like desserts, wishing Gavin a happy birthday with a real Arabian warmth.

We chatted about New Zealand, Saudi history, and family life (all via the owners right-hand man, who could translate perfectly in English for us). 

As the night drew to a close – a moment where we easily could have called it an early night and headed back to the hotel – the owner made us an offer:

“Why don’t you come out to my farm in the desert tomorrow? You can see our camels, try camel milk, and spend the afternoon with us.”

The staff of Dammam Heritage Village all coming out to sing Happy Birthday to Gavin.

Those Travel Crossroads 

Now, this was one of those travel crossroads. We already had train tickets booked for our onward journey to Riyadh. Going out to a farm in the desert meant cancelling our train, hiring a rental car, changing all our bookings, and navigating Saudi road trips for the very first time.

It would have been so easy to politely say, “Thank you, but we have a train to catch.”

Instead, we looked at each other, smiled, and said, “Yes!”

Driving Out into the Desert Sands from Dammam

The next morning, we completely uprooted our itinerary. We hired a rental car, pushed our train tickets back a couple of days, and hit the road.

Driving out of Dammam was an experience in itself! We found ourselves navigating massive, flower-petal-shaped roundabouts, surrounded by Porsches, Dodges, and Ferraris, before hitting the open highway toward the Salasan desert region, about an hour inland.

We met our host near the highway edge, and then followed his SUV off-road, driving directly onto the desert sands where the golden dunes were literally swallowing the tire tracks up ahead. The boys were buzzing with excitement – we were officially in the middle of nowhere!

On the road out into the literal middle of nowhere when we met up with Mr Abdulraham’s driver to follow him out to the farm.

Camels, Gazelles, and Fresh Camel Milk

Arriving at the desert farm from Dammam felt like stepping into an oasis. We were greeted inside a air-conditioned majlis with a massive, elaborate platter of fresh fruits, dates, juices, and Arabic coffee.

Then after fuelling up, we went out to explore the farm. It was an absolute paradise for Harry and Oscar. The property was home to beautiful Arabian horses, donkeys, gazelles, and over 2,000 massive, healthy sheep originally from Iraq and Sudan. Oscar, our resident animal lover, was completely in his element, helping guide the herds and petting the newborn animals.

Goats, gazelles, sheep, donkeys and beautiful Arabian horses.
Oscar was a big fan of the donkeys.

The Camels 

As late afternoon approached, it was time for the main event: the camels.

We walked out to the pens just as the herds were being brought in for evening milking. Watching camels being milked using traditional methods was a first for all of us. Before we knew it, our hosts handed us cups of warm, frothy, freshly milked camel milk.

If you’ve never tried fresh camel milk, it is completely different from cow’s milk! It’s surprisingly light, naturally sweet, and incredibly foamy. We even dipped fresh dates straight into the thick foam top. It tasted like some kind of rich ice cream!

Sitting on the sand, sipping fresh camel milk as the giant desert sun dipped below the horizon, surrounded by quiet dunes and camel silhouettes, was a pure “pinch-me” moment. 

Camel milk out in the beautiful desert setting is still one of those pinch-me kind of travel moments!

A Feast for Dinner

We finished the early evening under the stars, dished up yet another incredible feast of local meats, rice, and fresh side dishes. Though I feel I need to explain more about the feast. Because we had an entire sheep plated up on the table! 

We drove back to Dammam late that night with our rental car boot literally overflowing with gifted boxes of dates, fresh camel milk, and local treats.

The Power of Saying Yes

Looking back, that single decision – to cancel our train, hire a car, and say yes to a stranger’s invitation – unlocked the rest of our month in Saudi Arabia. It gave us the confidence to road-trip across the entire country. In turn, leading us to mountain villages, ancient desert tombs, and dozens more incredible local connections.

Saudi Arabia’s true beauty lies in its legendary hospitality. If you ever visit this fascinating country, pack an open mind, leave room for spontaneity, and when a local warmly invites you into their world – always say yes! 🙂

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