Are you thinking about Iran travel? Like other destinations before, I’d read a few blogs about travel in Iran, and I’d heard about Iranian hospitality before our first visit.
But I can promise you that nothing quite prepared us for how humbling and welcoming it would feel in real life, just how magnificent the history would be, and just how much we would treasure our Iran travel…
Those who make the trip will be rewarded with a bounty of attractions, incredible history, and colourful cuisine combined with some of the world’s warmest hospitality.
To make your trip to Iran a bit easier, here’s a detailed list of everything you need to know about Iran travel, including what to see, how to book accommodation and great Iran travel tips.
- About Iran
- Iran travel
- Best time to visit?
- Visa for Iran
- Language
- Choosing an Iran Itinerary
Shiraz
Yazd
Isfahan
Kashan
Tehran - What to wear (clothes)
- Food in Iran
- Transportation
- Money
- Connectivity and WIFI
- Getting a SIM card for Iran
- Accommodation
Introducing Iran – a little bit about Iran first
Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran and also known as Persia, is a country in West Asia with a long history and a strategic location bordering the Persian Gulf, the Gulf of Oman, and the Caspian Sea.
- Full Name: The Islamic Republic of Iran
- Capital: Tehran
- Language(s): Persian, Azeri and Kurdish
- Major Religions: Islam, Christianity, Zoroastrianism
- Currency: Iranian Rial IRR
- Population: 92,000,000
- Climate: Continental
- Time Zone: GMT +3:30
- Calling Code: +98
- Driving Side: Right
- Outlets: Plug Type F and C (220V / 50 Hz)
About Iran
Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran, has a unique blend of ancient and modern influences, making it a fascinating and complex country.
The name ‘Iran’ means ‘Land of the Aryans’.
Albeit Iran of recent times doesn’t always have the smoothest of associations for travel. It is one of the most beautiful yet most maligned countries in the world.
Iran is an Islamic republic with a theocratic government, where the Supreme Leader holds significant power. The country has a complex political system with a president, parliament, and judiciary, all overseen by the clergy.
The country has a diverse population, with people from various ethnic and religious backgrounds. The majority of Iranians are Shia Muslims, but there are also significant populations of Sunni Muslims, Zoroastrians, and other religious minorities too.
People in Iran are not Arabs but Persians, which is a completely different ethnicity.
Iran’s conservative politics may make travellers wonder if it’s safe to visit. But like us, when you do – it is incredible.
About travel in Iran
For travellers, there is a lot of advice stacked against Iran travel. But it is what we would now – after enjoying an incredible month of travel in Iran – describe as unfairly portrayed by western media.
The nation behind the news is wonderfully warm and welcoming; and the imagined hostility towards Westerners simply doesn’t exist.
This is a country of hospitably, colourful albeit slipping headscarves and more manmade beauty that you could think possible.
What was our experience of travel in Iran?
We ended our month of travel in Iran following the civil unrest and protests against the government associated with the death in police custody of Mahsa Amini.
Timing-wise, it was at the end of our third week in Iran. Which had been a week we spent changing our plans to extend our Iran travel for another three weeks. We wanted to stay in Iran longer.
But within the week the internet shut down and the protests caused a great international stir. It was a trying week for Iranians, and for us we fast realised many options of land borders with Iran were closing.
In the end, we had a fantastic driver who took us all the way to Sanadaj in Iranian Kurdistan. In typical fashion of Iranian hospitality he literally walked us all the way to the border terminal, carrying my bag and saw us safely over the border.
The hospitality in Iran – even amidst all the unrest – was exceptional and truly moving.
The people we met and the cities and places we experienced left us with memories for a lifetime. They are memories of Iran that have us looking forward to going back and doing it all again – in a heartbeat!
We had a truly fantastic, eye-opening and memorable time throughout a month of Iran travel.
What is the best time of year for Iran travel?
The best time of year to visit Iran is spring (March-May) and autumn (September-October).
In the summer (June – August) the central provinces get stiflingly hot. While in the winter (November – February), much of Iran can be very cold.
We visited Iran during the month of September and had brilliant, beautiful weather.
- Note: Iran follows the official Muslim calendar, so Friday is the official day off and, for most companies and the public sector, Thursday and Friday is the weekend.
Visa for Iran travel
Everybody, except for citizens of Canada, UK, US, Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Colombia, Iraq, Jordan, Nepal, Pakistan, Somalia and Sri Lanka, can get a visa on arrival at any of Iran’s international airports.
However, it is not quite a true Visa on Arrival.
Rather, it is an Electronic Authorisation to travel.
For us, we used the – highly recommended – service of TAP Persia.
At the time we were in Dubai, UAE. So, once we had applied online and received an authorisation code, we went to the Iran Consulate – Consulate General of The Islamic Republic of Iran – in Dubai and paid our fee and collected our Iran travel visa in advance.
The process is straightforward and well supported through the team at TAP Persia:
- Fill in the online form and pay the TAP Persia fee by credit card
- Receive an authorisation code
- Pay the visa fee at an embassy
- Collect your visa at an embassy or airport
We had fantastic service from TAP Persia and ended up meeting the team at the office in Isfahan. They were later a great support in helping us to leave Iran when we needed to.
Language in Iran
Farsi – or Persian – is the country’s language. However, one thing to note before Iran travel is that Farsi has nothing to do with Arabic.
Here are some common Farsi phrases useful for travelling in and interacting in Iran:
- Hello: Salam
- Please: Lotfan
- Yes: Bale or Are
- No: Nah
- Thank you: Mersi or Mamnoon
- You’re welcome: Khâhesh Mikonam
- Excuse me: Bebakshid
- Good morning: Sob Bekheyr
- Good day: Ruz Bekhey
I still don’t quite understand the origins of why Iranians say ‘Merci’ in Persian. But it’s an informal and relaxed way to say ‘Thanks!’
CHOOSING AN ITINERARY – Visiting the cities of Iran
Iran is full of incredible historic and cultural sites. A part of choosing an itinerary for Iran travel depends on where you arrive in the country to.
For us, we started in Shiraz and made our way overland between the cities of Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan and Kashan.
The following are the highlights and things to do in the the western cities of Iran.
SHIRAZ – Iran Travel
Shiraz is a city in south-central Iran, known for its literary history and many gardens. It is also famously known for the beautiful Nasir al-Mulk Mosque and the colourful stained glass.
There are many crafts – including the inlaid glass and mosaics – that Shiraz is renowned for.
Shiraz was our first destination in Iran. Which as far as a first destination city in a new country, it was fabulous to explore.
We had a brilliant first afternoon. We arrived from the airport to our hostel and checked in feeling wowed already at our beautiful accommodation. The staff made us tea and sorted out a SIM card for us before we even checked in fully.
We felt re-energised after our first Iranian tea(s) and multiple Nabaat (the new favourite sugary rock-candy) and excited to check out the old city of Shiraz. It turned out our beautiful hostel was right in the heart of the old town and in walking distance to the stunning Vikal Mosque and bustling bazaar…
Things to do in Shiraz, Iran
Shiraz is the fifth-most-populous city of Iran and the capital of Fars province. The most famous things to do in Shiraz include visiting the bazar, the famous mosques and shrines and seeing the incredible palace and Eram Garden.
- Nasir al-Mulk Mosque: This mosque dates to 1888 CE and is well known as the Pink Mosque.
- Tomb of Hafez: This is a memorial structure erected in memory of the celebrated Persian poet Hafez.It is a popular place in the afternoon with poets and performers in the surrounding park.
- Eram Garden: Shiraz is full of beautiful gardens and green spaces, but the Eram Garden is one of the most spectacular and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Holy Shrine of Shahecheragh: The tomb of Ahmed bin Musa (Imam Reza’s brother) in the centre of Shiraz is the third most important shrine in Shia Islam in Iran.
YAZD – Iran Travel
Yazd is a city in the Central District of Yazd County in the Yazd province of Iran.
It is an incredibly (another) historic city. Yazd’s first mention in historic records predate it back to around 3000 years BC when it was related to by the name of Ysatis. It is often touted as the ‘oldest living city in the world’.
Things to do in Yazd, Iran
Besides the historic sites, Yazd is also surrounded by beautiful deserts and mountains. Some of the things to do in Yazd include visiting the Zoarastrian village and history in the surrounding Yazd plain.
- Dowlat Abad Garden: This is a historical garden in Yazd which has 33.8 meters tall windcatcher and beautiful Iranian gardens.
- Jame Mosque of Yazd: The Blue Mosque of Yazd is a historic mosque that was built in the 14th century. It is particularly stunning at night!
- Zoroastrian Fire Temple of Yazd: This is one of the most important fire temples in the world and one of nine Atash Bahrams where Zoroastrians have practiced their religion since 400 BC.
- Amir Chakmakh Mosque: The mosque was completed in 1438 and from the viewpoint of aesthetics, dimension and importance, it is one of the most outstanding buildings in Yazd.
- Khan Bazar: A bazaar in Yazd that has been around since the 9th century.
ISFAHAN – Iran Travel
Isfahan is the third most popular city in Iran and is often the image of the fabulous blue mosaic tiles and courtyards depicted of the country.
It is famous for its Persian–Muslim architecture, grand boulevards, covered bridges, palaces, tiled mosques, and minarets.
The iconic Naqsh-e Jahan Square is the much-photographed 17th-century Imam (Shah) Mosque, whose dome and minarets are covered with mosaic tiles and calligraphy.
It was this fame of Isfahan historically led to the Persian proverb ‘Esfahān nesf-e-jahān ast’. Which translates as ‘Isfahan is half (of) the world’…
Things to do in Isfahan, Iran
The city also has many historical buildings, monuments, paintings, and artifacts.
- Jame Mosque of Isfahan: The Friday Mosque of Isfahan, is considered one of the most important historical monuments of this city.
- Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Square: This is the huge UNESCO World Heritage Site surrounded by beautiful buildings such as the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace and the Qeysarieh Bazaar.
- Shah Mosque: This is on the 20,000 Rial bank note. In real life it is even more impressive with its shiny dome, blue tilework and fine Quranic calligraphy.
- Isfahan Bazaar: All the bazaars of Iran are incredible, but the Isfahan one is enormous. There are literally lanes and lanes of shops and handicraft stalls amidst beautiful hidden domes, coloured mosaics and shrines.
KASHAN – Iran Travel
Kashan – or Qashan – is a city in the Central District of Kashan County, in the northern part of the Isfahan province of Iran.
For Iran travel, Kashan is famous for its exquisite carpets, historical houses and the nearby underground city of Noushabad. It is also well known for the production of rosewater that has been produced in this region for more than 2500 years.
Things to do in Kashan, Iran
Another of the top things to do in Kashan is to visit a rosewater factory. You will otherwise spot it on sale and beautifully displayed around the city.
- Agha Bozorg Mosque: This is (another) beautiful traditional Silk Road Mosque, praised to be one of the greatest mosques in the 18th century.
- Kashan Bazaar: An incredibly historic indoor bazaar with an intricate maze of alleys, hidden mosques, internal courtyards, water fountains and tea houses.
- Imamzadeh Ye-Sultan Mir Ahmad: A small and beautifully decorated shrine next to Tabatabaei House.
- Fin Garden: Among the oldest gardens in Iran dating to 1590.
- Nushabad Underground City: Built 1500 years ago with systems for oxygen and water.
TEHRAN – Iran Travel
Tehran is the capital and largest city of Iran. It is also one of the largest and most populous cities in the world – with a population of 14 million!
Though for travellers, Tehran doesn’t possess quite the majesty or the long history of Iran’s other famous cities.
But it is an absolutely vast city, with plenty of places to visit.
Things to do in Tehran, Iran
Despite not offering the same scale of Silk Road history as Shiraz or Isfahan, Tehran has been the capital city of the country for the past two centuries. So, a lot of the contemporary political, cultural, and religious events have happened here.
- Tehran Grand Bazaar: This is hands down one of the most popular things to do in Tehran. The Bazaar is enormous in scale with a labrynth of alleys and thousands of shops.
- Imamzadeh Saleh Mosque: It is said that photogenic Imamzadeh Saleh is one of Tehran’s most attractive shrines.
- Golestan Palace: The Palace was home to the royal family of the Qajar Dynasty that ruled the Persian Emprie from 1785 – 1925. It is composed of beautiful gardens and buildings that hold several museums.
- Former U.S. Embassy: This became a museum which holds plenty of anti-American propaganda.
FOOD – Iran Travel
Welcome travellers, to the great news that is Iranian cuisine!
The cuisine of Iran, also known as Persian cuisine, features a rich blend of flavours and ingredients. Rice and meat dishes are Persian staples, often incorporating herbs, spices, fruits, and nuts with vibrant colours.
Meals typically include a wide variety of dishes, including several forms of kebab, stew, soup, and pilaf dishes, as well as various salads, desserts, pastries, and drinks.
Some Persian foods and dishes to try in Iran include:
- Zereshk Polo – rice with barberries (zereshk) and saffron
- Tahdig – the crispy, golden-brown rice crust
- Jujeh Kabab – chicken kebab
- Abgoosht (Dizi) – stew with meat
- Ash Doogh – yoghurt soup
- Dolma – stuffed vine leaves
- Ghormeh Sabzi – Iranian stew
- Khoresh Bademjan – eggplant and tomato stew
OTHER FOOD TO TRY – Iran Travel
There are many other snacks, breads and treats to try during your Iran travel.
Bread
Lavash is the most common bread in Iran (and the Caucasus). Sangak is a plain, rectangular or triangle-shaped leavened flatbread that is stone-baked.
Salad
The most common salad served with a meal is Sabzi (greens) with fresh herbs and raw vegetables (including radish). Though Torshi is often served before a meal like a mixed pickles salad.
Drinks
Doogh is the most popular cold yoghurt drink that is served with most meals. Sharbat is a cold and sweet drink made of fruits or flower petals. Or if you are in luck to time your Iran travel with pomegranate season this is a popular fresh juice in the bazaars and squares.
Dessert
You absolutely must try Falude during your Iran travel. This is a dessert that changes by province and is quite competitive between cities! It is made with Vermicelli mixed with semi-frozen syrup of sugar and rose water.
Tea
The tea culture is really strong and a sign of hospitality. It is always served with sugar sticks of Nabat!
Drinking water
Unfortunately it is not recommend to drink the tap water in Iran. It is not filtered and thus not safe for drinking.
Bottled water is readily available. Or you can use a water purifier if you have one (and are confident with that).
CLOTHING AND WHAT TO WEAR IN IRAN – Iran Travel
For Iran travel, women are required by law to cover their hair with a headscarf (hijab) and wear loose-fitting clothing that covers their arms and legs.
Men should also dress modestly, avoiding sleeveless shirts and shorts.
- Men – You can’t dress in shorts or short pants (even when it is hot!). But, other than that, men don’t have restrictions on clothing as a traveller.
- Women – For Iran travel, women need to wear a headscarf (hijab) and can’t show either their shoulders or their curves.
This essentially means that as a female traveller, you must wear a loose long dress or Abaya-style coat over your clothes underneath.
I found it easiest to wear long trousers and a long, long-sleeved top that came down below my hips. Plus, I usually wore an Abaya-type outer layer. Even when it was seriously hot!
TRANSPORT AND GETTING AROUND – Iran Travel
For traveling in Iran, you have options of transport to move around the country.
Between cities, buses (especially VIP buses), trains, and taxis (both shared and private) are the most common means of transport. Buses and intercity taxis can be booked once you arrive.
For local trips and transport in the cities, apps like Snapp and Tap30 provide convenient ride-hailing services. We often found our accommodation host would offer and ask if we needed help to book a taxi and hail one via Snapp.
Domestic flights are also available.
GETTING THERE – Iran Travel
Many of the main cities in Iran are serviced with regular flights from Turkey, the Caucasus and Middle East.
We flew from Dubai, UAE to Shiraz.
Though we departed overland crossing the land border from Iran to Iraqi Kurdistan.
LAND BORDERS – Iran Travel
Iran shares a border with many countries. However, for both arriving and departing Iran many countries – including Iran – require a prearranged visa for travel.
Countries that share a border with Iran include:
- Afghanistan
- Armenia
- Azerbaijan
- Iraq
- Pakistan
- Turkey
- Turkmenistan
- UAE – ferry between Sharjah and Bandar Abbas
We took the land border from Iran to Iraq crossing the border from Penjwen – Bashmaq.
- Read the full report of crossing the Iran – Iraq (Kurdistan) border at Penjwen – Bashmaq.
MONEY AND ATM’s – Iran Travel
In Iran, they use the currency of Iranian Rial (IRR).
However, the main thing to know about money and Iran travel is that you must bring all the cash that you need with you. It is not possible to use a foreign bank card on an ATM in Iran.
There are exchange offices available everywhere and USD, €, and GBP are always accepted.
Plus, there is also the black market for currency in Iran. Due to the many sanctions in the country and lack of chance to trade internationally, the rate on the black market is often much better. Which means that, in all cities, you will always find random people willing to buy your currency.
- Tip: You can – in theory – buy a local credit card on arrival and top it up so you don’t have to carry cash. We didn’t try this but read it recommended by other travellers.
CONNECTIVITY AND WIFI – Iran Travel
In Iran, many websites are censored on the internet and that includes:
- Netflix
- YouTube
Some Google services are also banned, as are any Tinder or pornography sites.
So if you want to post Facebook updates or even just check the international news, you must get a VPN.
We used Express VPN for our Iran travel and that worked fine (while the internet was working in the country). Though we did pre-download several options just in case!
Getting a SIM Card for Iran
The easiest way to get a SIM card for Iran travel is on arrival at the airport.
Major airports like Imam Khomeini International Airport in Tehran or the International Shiraz Airport have kiosks and shops where you can buy SIM card.
However, when we arrived in the mid-afternoon from UAE to Shiraz, the mobile counter was closed at the airport arrival terminal.
We managed to get a taxi from the airport to our accommodation on arrival (using USD cash). Then once we checked in the hotel offered to set us up with two SIM cards for our Iran travel.
They still need to register your SIM card with your passport details.
Though this proved to be a great solution, and we had an Irancell SIM card set up by the first evening.
- Tip: The cost of a SIM card in Iran is relatively low. Typically ranging from IRR 100,000 to IRR 500,000 (approximately $3 to $5 USD) for plenty of data and calls.
ACCOMMODATION – Iran Travel
Ah ha. This is a more complicated part of Iran travel.
Unlike (all of the) other countries in the Middle East and West or Central Asia, in Iran you cannot make bookings online through Booking.com.
Because of the international sanctions and the internet sites that are blocked in Iran, Booking.com does not exist.
However, there is a similar Iranian site called 1stQuest. You can use the site to book accommodation for your Iran travel.
We managed to book ahead for the first places to stay in Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan and Kashan before we travelled.
Accommodation we booked for our travel in Iran
There are lots of beautiful accommodation options in Iran. Once you have made the booking through 1stQuestit is a friendly and personable service to make any changes.
- Isfahan – Saraye Ordibehesht Hotel
- Kashan – Noghli Hotel
- Sanadaj – Sanadaj Tourism Hotel
- Shiraz – Taha Traditional Hostel
- Tehran – Bibi Hostel
- Yazd – Yazd Friendly Hotel
We particularly loved our first arrival to Shiraz and the friendly Taha Traditional Hostel.
TIPS FOR TRAVEL – Iran Travel
Get your visa early, dress modestly, go beyond the cities, and embrace the local hospitality.
Here are some tips for Iran travel.
- Get your Visa early. Once you have this sorted – we recommend through TAP Persia – you can start planning all of the incredible Iran travel.
- You will need a VPN for Iran travel. The internet is censored. Many common social media networks (Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest), Google services (except Gmail), app stores (for paid apps), and western news outlets (BBC, CNN) are blocked. Meaning you can’t even download an Iran travel or taxi app once you arrive – without a VPN that is.
- Women have a strict dress code. You must wear a headscarf (hijab) for Iran travel, your shirt needs to cover your hips (lower than your bottom), and you can’t wear shorts or anything with short sleeves.
- Prices are given in Toman, not Rials. Of which, 1 toman = 10 rials. People will also abbreviate prices. For example, if someone tells you something is ‘5’, they mean 5,000 Toman or 50,000 Rials. It’s confusing in the beginning!
- Everything closes on Fridays. Friday is the holy day of the week, and many shops are closed for the whole day.
- Remember that Persians are not Arabs. Even though Iran is geographically the Middle East, Iranians don’t consider themselves Arabs or Middle Easterners.
- Carry toilet paper in all Iran travel. Cheap accommodations won’t always have toilet paper and public toilets definitely don’t.
One final Iran travel tip?
Iranians love treating foreigners. The hospitality is up there as one of the most generous cultures we’ve experienced in travel.
People you meet are going to want to take you out and pay for everything.
To which, you can of course offer to pay yourself. But if they refuse you three or more times just give in and go with the flow. This is the concept of Tarof. Which in short, is when someone offers something to be polite, not because they want to.
The concept of Tarof usually occurs in the form of someone offering to you something for free. But it can also apply to invitations.
The best Tarof-prepared tip to determine if it is in fact Tarof, is to offer to pay three times. If the person still resists, the offer is legit.
Read more about travel in Asia and Middle East
- 15 Things To Do In Multan, Pakistan.
- 10 Things To Do In Islamabad, Pakistan.
- India Travel Guide.
- Saudi Arabia Travel Guide.
- Day Trip Islamabad To Murree.
- 8 Things To Do In Islamabad With Kids.
- Crossing The Moldova Transnistria Border.
- Crossing The Border From Pakistan To India.
- 10 Day Punjab India And Pakistan Itinerary.
More about planning for travel in Iran and beyond
These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have insurance before Iran travel!