Away With The Steiners

Moving To Rarotonga: Everything You Want To Know About Living In The Cook Islands!

Call us bias, but we reckon moving to Rarotonga is one of the best decisions we’ve ever made! It’s exciting, it’s different and moving from New Zealand it’s not actually all that far away…

If you are ready to embrace all that embodies the island lifestyle and the beautiful culture of the Cook Islands, then moving to Rarotonga is about to be one of the best decisions you will make too.

There are challenges that come with adapting to this kind of life. (We call that ‘Paradise Tax’!).

But if you can toss aside those expectations that life here will be the same as at home (just more tropical) and get ready for an entirely new adventure – you are going to fit right in…

So welcome newcomer!

Here’s everything you need to know about moving to Rarotonga.

Moving to Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Definitely do your research; and feel free to ask any questions, leave a comment or update us on anything more to add!

About the Cook Islands, quickly

The Cook Islands is made up of 15 major islands spread over 2,200,000 km2 of South Pacific ocean.

The islands are divided into two distinct groups: the Southern Cook Islands and the Northern Cook Islands.

Moving to Rarotonga – Visas

As long as you’re staying no more than 31 days (90 days if you’re a New Zealand citizen) your valid passport is the only entry permit you need, along with proof of onward journey.  

It is possible to stay for up to five months more as a tourist visitor. New Zealanders can apply for a three month extension and other nationals for a month at a time but you’ll need to extend your entry permit –  at the Department of Immigration in Avarua.  In both cases, there is a fee for the privilege.

To live and work in the Cook Islands you will require an entry permit with permission to work.

To satisfy criteria to obtain a work permit you must be sponsored by a person or organisation in the Cook Islands agreeing to your employment.

Details for a work permit here.

Blog post and guide about moving to Rarotonga, Cook Islands. Everything you need to know about relocating and living as an expat in Rarotonga.
Arriving at Rarotonga International Airport.

Culture

Cook Islands culture is an interesting mix of Polynesian heritage and European influences with a unique identity, customs and traditions.

Cook Islanders are friendly and welcoming, and the lifestyle is happy with the laid back vibes of Polynesia.   

Cultural practices

Celebrations are a big part of both life and death in the Cook Islands.

Cook Islanders very proudly carry forward many celebratory and customary traditions.  It is helpful to know about these ahead of moving to Rarotonga as there are likely expectations within your workplace that you support and contribute in some way to these events too. 

Celebrations include:

Collections are common practice within a workplace.  

Depending on the circumstance, in the lead up to these events an envelope will be passed around to give a koha or gift of money to the associated family.  This could be a collection for an upcoming haircutting ceremony or a collection for the family of someone who has passed away.  

And more often than not, the donation of money is labelled with the name and amount donated so the recipient is aware of the donor. (Just a heads up!). 

But money aside, food is the biggest part of any celebration in the Cook Islands.  It’s an amazing part of the culture to experience and one that can only truly be appreciated firsthand! 

Locks of hair and a party bag from the celebrations of a 5 year old hair cutting ceremony.

Language

The official languages are Cook Island Maori and English. New Zealanders who speak te reo will have an advantage.

Some useful phrases in Cook Islands Maori: 

Weather and climate

The Cook Islands enjoys a warm and pleasant, sunny climate all year round! 

The year is not divided into four seasons; rather the drier months are from April to November with an average temperature of 26°C. And November to March marks the warmer season with slightly higher humidity and temperature ranges between 22°C (min) and 30°C (max).  

There is occasional rainfall between December and March. However, don’t be put off by rainfall in these summer months as it’s typically brief and in the true style of ‘tropical showers’ it does not last for long. 

Extreme weather warnings 

November to March is the cyclone (hurricane) season.

Although cyclones are not common in the Cook Islands (there were three back to back in 2005) there can be Cyclone Warnings during the season as well as warnings for high winds.  Keep up to date with weather forecasts and do be aware of other cyclone warnings happening in the South Pacific and beyond. 

Tsunami Warnings are also a possibility in Rarotonga.  In March 2021 there was a tsunami warning following an earthquake off the northern coast of New Zealand.  

Do take it seriously. (Don’t be that guy that goes down to the beach to take a photo). 

If in doubt, ask a local and talk to your neighbours.  

Cars parked up Hospital Hill during the 2021 Tsunami Warning.

Useful weather and news websites in the Cook Islands: 

Currency

The Cook Islands uses the same currency as New Zealand. However, there are some coins in circulation that are specific to the Cook Islands and cannot be changed anywhere else in the world. 

Convenience stores and supermarkets accept EFTPOS transactions but you will need cash for most other payments: markets, roadside stalls, collections at work, as well as some cafés and restaurants that only accept cash.  

Banking 

There are three main banks in the Cook Islands:

Each bank has a main branch in Avarua. There are ATMs around Rarotonga and Aitutaki and EFTPOS in some hotels and shops.

Withdrawing money from your New Zealand debit or credit card is easy and can be done at any ATM.  

If you have a KiwiBank account there is no charge to withdraw from a BCI ATM in Avarua.

[As a side note; automatic payments within the Cook Islands seem to have a charge per transaction.  We tried to set up an automatic payment for our motorbike and were alerted that it would cost $2.50 per payment!]. 

Vibrant Polynesian patterns on the ANZ Bank.

Transferring funds overseas

In Avarua there is Western Union branch on the main road in town.  This is particularly busy in the lead up to holidays and Christmas time. 

Making a transfer from a New Zealand bank account to a Cook Island bank account costs around $15 – 25 NZD per transaction (depending on your bank).  

Western Union, Avarua.

Insurance 

Tower Insurance or FPI Insurance in Avarua can authorize insurance for vehicles and contents.  The cost will be directly specific to your location and the amount you want to insure.

Pop in and see Tower Insurance on the First Floor, BCI Building or FPI at Federal Pacific House in town.

What to wear

Get yourself a pareu as soon as you arrive!  

Traditional island dress for both men and women is a wrap-around piece of material called ‘pareu‘. This is worn casually at home or tied specifically for more formal occasions.  

Pareu also refers to modern island-wear, in the form of beautifully coloured dresses and brightly patterned island shirts. 

Modesty is highly valued in Cook Islands culture.  Swimwear or skimpy clothing is not suitable to be worn in town or villages. (And if you are sunbathing on a family beach be prepared in case one of the Mama’s chases you away with a kikau broom!).  Be considerate; what you wear (or lack of) can be considered offensive.  

If you are attending church or a formal event, women should wear a dress or skirt, and men should wear a collared shirt and long trousers.

There is a great selection of island wear made on the island as well as local shops that stock island style clothing at an affordable price. 

Beautiful pareu and island wear at Mareko, Avarua.

Where to buy island wear

There are two second hand shops that stock all kinds of clothing including island wear. This is often a good choice to start with as expats leaving the island will donate their well-made pareu dresses and shirts they won’t likely wear back home. 

There are also tailors on the island. (Trust me, getting a uniform made is a regular practice for sports clubs, church groups, schools and pretty much any social group event you might be going to!). The local tailors on the island can make anything you want to a pattern or by measurements.  

Fabric can be bought at Vonnia’s (Avarua and West) and Tuki’s Pareu in Avarua and is priced around $8 – 10 per metre. 

Costs to have items made at a tailor range from: 

Don’t bring too much! 

SPCA second hand shop in Avarua.

Houses in Rarotonga

The majority of island accommodation available for longterm rental is basic, furnished accommodation.  

Houses will likely have access to phone, internet, local convenience stores, a nearby bus stop and 24-hour power.  (Power outages occur occasionally). 

Most houses are made from a concrete base with block walls or a synthetic cladding.  There is no insulation as it is simply not needed.  There is normally an outside living space either on decking or under the shelter of an extended carport roof.  

It can be worth checking if the windows have screens for mosquitos (read more below) and if the water heating is gas or solar. 

The front of our beach facing house in Tupapa when we first arrived.

The cost of a renting a house in Rarotonga

Finding a place to live in Rarotonga

Most houses in Rarotonga don’t have an address. 

Rather, your address will be “Next to the convenience store”. “By the sign for ‘Fresh Fish’ in Tupapa” or “Just opposite Aunty Vi’s market”. 

It’s true! And not only that… 

Nothing on the island is taller than a coconut tree.

You quickly get used to explaining your address to locals once you are here(!) but the real challenge of finding a place to live in Rarotonga likely starts before you arrive.  

The good news is there are several Facebook pages to use that will help you find the right house to make home.  

Renting a house in Rarotonga

When looking at a map of of Rarotonga, the general shape of the island is almost roughly square.  

This helps in a geographical sense to understand how the districts of the island are laid out, and which area will be most suitable (or closest to work) for you to live on. 

Map of the land districts and villages on Rarotonga (from Wikipedia).

The north side of the island is where the main town of Avarua is.  This northern coast of the island is beautiful and rugged to look at with breathtaking views of the mountains as well. The line of the reef is closest to the shore on this side and so it is not ideal for swimming.  

Well-known Muri Lagoon is on the east side of the island.  The Muri area is quite a large settlement and the most high-density tourist area when the season is right. 

The south of the island is a quiet option without the draw of a large commercial or touristic base.  It has beautiful beaches and a large lagoon that is great for swimming. 

Arorangi and the western side of the island are best known for iconic island sunsets and postcard swimming beaches (part of the reason we’ve chosen this side!).  

Useful Facebook pages to join: 

Power and gas

Houses will likely have gas facilities for cooking.  

Gas bottles can easily be swapped at most village petrol stations or the main Toa Gas in Avarua.  The cost to swap a bottle is $35.

Some houses will have solar panels for water heating which will reduce the cost of monthly power.  

This is worth factoring in to your decision on which house is right for you.  (Our house has solar heating for the water and gas for cooking.  The monthly power bill is around $60 NZD).  

The Cook Islands has the same electrical plug socket and voltage as New Zealand. 

Rubbish 

Waste management is a serious problem in the Cook Islands.  This is due to land scarcity, the proximity of the residential and commercial property to the ocean, and the small economic base on the island.  

The best way to support the management of rubbish in Rarotonga is to really consider what you bring to the country in the first place, and your choices for purchase and generation of waste while you are here.  

Rubbish is collected weekly from residential areas around Rarotonga.  

Different districts have an assigned rubbish collection day. 

Household recycling is also collected on the same day.  

Food in Rarotonga

Most common goods and services are readily available on Rarotonga.  Prices range from similar to slightly higher than in New Zealand.

Because of the size of the island a huge majority of the food is imported from New Zealand.  Thus, the price of imported food is inflated to account for transport, shipping, handling and location. 

However, the good news is that there is also plenty of local produce available.  The main market in town stocks fruit and vegetables and is open daily.

And each village has small public market stands that sell coconuts and fresh produce. (You won’t get far around the island before spotting these and if you are moving to Rarotonga you will soon get to know your friendly local market vendor). 

Buying a drinking coconut from a roadside stall.

Moving to Rarotonga –price of food 

For a rough idea of supermarket food prices, here are some of the items with a price in NZD:

Inside Foodland in Avarua.

Supermarkets 

There are four main supermarkets on the island with the largest being the CITC Supermarket in Avatiu. 

The main CITC Supermarket.
Primefoods in Avarua.

Wigmores Supermarket in Vaimaanga stocks the biggest range of organic, vegan and imported fresh dairy and dairy-alternative products. (I am pretty sure it’s the only shop on the island that stocks fresh milk from New Zealand!). 

Imported dietary specific foods at Wigmores Supermarket.

There are five medium sized minimarket/convenience stores around the island where you can pretty much get whatever you need.  These shops are open 6:00am – 9:00pm and stock a range of fresh produce, cooked food, alcohol, bread, tinned food, toiletries and household items. 

Shopping at SuperBrown in Tupapa.

Most of the villages right around Rarotonga also have a local convenience store.  These can be small private stores, part of the ‘Woo’ chain or the bright green ‘Tex Mart’ shops. 

Village store in Vaimaanga.

Drinking water

Rarotonga currently has a gravity-fed water distribution system.  There are 12 main intakes around the island from streams and freshwater sources that is collected and fed into storage tanks or directly into the water infrastructure.  

Like most of the islands in the pacific, the water in Rarotonga is not chemically treated.  Thus, the majority of tap water in houses in Rarotonga is not safe for drinking as the bacteria has not been filtered. 

However, Rarotonga has a great system of drinking water stations in the local villages around the island.  There are about 48 ‘water stations’ in total.   

Water station at Punanga Nui Market, Avarua.

These are essentially a table and water tap system with one or two filtered drinking water taps.  All you need is to bring a container to collect your water in. 

Vaima is a water company located on the backroad in Nikao, Avarua.  They have a large warehouse that stocks water containers, coolers and dispensers.  And they also sterilize and refill the water containers at a charge.  

The original 15L water bottle costs $36 and is supplied full. 

We purchased a 15L container with dispenser and metal stand and refill the container at the local water stations.  

Every few refills we take the container to Vaima and pay $6 so the bottle can be hygienically washed and refilled. 

Filling up with water at Kavera Water Station.

Furniture and furnishings 

You will find in planning your move to Rarotonga that most houses available for longterm rent are furnished.  

What furnishings are likely in a ‘furnished house’?

Furnishings can include bedding, towels, cutlery, crockery, tv and whiteware.  

However, storage options in a family sized house are likely limited and you may need to consider alternative options for purchasing new or used furniture for storage. 

Furniture stores on Rarotonga: 

Furniture prices: 

There is obviously a wide range of pricing in purchasing imported furniture on Rarotonga.  

As an example that might help in deciding what to pack for shipping, here are some prices of new furniture from the stores above: 

Useful Facebook pages to join: 

CITC Building Centre in Avarua (the island Bunnings-equivalent).
Homeware section of CITC Shopping Centre in Avarua.

Transport and buying a vehicle 

Technically you can get around Rarotonga by bus, motorbike, bicycle or car.  All of these options are viable, however a car is the most convenient way to get around. 

There is only one option of public transport in Rarotonga; a daily clockwise and anti-clockwise bus service.  

An adult ticket from point A to B costs $5 or $30 for a 10-trip concession.  

Buying a car in Rarotonga

Buying a second hand car anywhere is a little bit hit and miss.  It’s always trickier negotiating as a foreigner – you don’t want to come across as a cheapskate or offend anybody, but you likely don’t yet have the same kind of contacts as the locals do. 

There are two options for buying a car in Rarotonga (there is no equivalent online app like Trade Me or Gum Tree).  

You can buy privately from an individual seller (see below for Facebook pages) or from a commercial rental service or car dealer. 

Useful Facebook pages to join: 

Fuel costs

Our small car costs $60 NZD to fill up with petrol and a tank lasts around two weeks. (Remember, the speed limit is only 50 kmph!). 

A local convenience store plus petrol station in Matavera.

WOF and registration 

Cars in Rarotonga need a warrant of fitness every 6 months.  (In saying that, the criteria for ‘fitness’ of a vehicle over here is somewhat different from home!).  

Registration for a vehicle is annual and expires (for all vehicles) on the 31st of March each year.  

Vehicle registration can be purchased from the BCI in Avarua or online.

Second hand car prices

Advice that was given to us was to think of what you would pay for something in New Zealand and then add $3000 to it.  This seems to be reasonably accurate in judging a fair price for an older model of second-hand vehicle.  

A few examples of current car prices advertised on Raro Wheel Deals: 

Bikes and cars for sale at RaroCars Rentals.

Buying a motorbike in Rarotonga

A scooter or motorbike is a great choice to get around Rarotonga; and certainly if you are looking for an economic transport option. If you are lucky you can pick yourself up an ex-rental from Polynesian Car Rentals and Bikes in Avarua.  

Buying a second-hand motorbike on Raro Wheel Deals ranges between $500 – $2000.  And you essentially get what you pay for. 

A motorbike costs less than $10 to fill up with fuel and a full tank lasts us about a fortnight.  (Parking is made easy too!). The only challenge in opting for a motorbike over a car is the chance of rain. However, tropical showers do not last long and you generally dry out before you arrive!

Helmets are compulsory now as part of new law.  It may be worth bringing a helmet from New Zealand as helmets aren’t cheap to buy and often are not in stock (while waiting for shipments to arrive). 

Healthcare and emergency services

Rarotonga has a central police station in Avarua and main hospital in Nikao.  

Cook Islands Central Police Station in Avarua, Rarotonga.

Healthcare in Rarotonga

Rarotonga’s main hospital is in Nikao.  There is an emergency outpatient clinic in Tupapa (Tupapa Clinic).  There are two chemists on the island: a main one in Avarua at CITC and another in Muri next to Delilicious Cafe.   

Each village has a localized ‘puna’ or clinic.  These are Community Health Clinics that have been established to provide basic health services including nursing care, baby checks, wound dressings, counselling and doctors consultations on certain days. 

Watch out for tropical sores. These are very serious in the islands and can be a result of any small nick or cut to begin with (a mosquito bite, scratch from a prickle, or a minor graze).  Tropical sores escalate quickly and turn a usually-healing nick into an abscess.  Keep any cuts covered and take heed and action if you do notice it getting infected. 

Getting a Covid-19 test at the Tupapa Community Clinic after our arrival.

Mosquitos

Dengue is a viral infection transmitted through the bite of an infected mosquito.  These mosquitoes thrive in areas with standing water, including puddles, water tanks, containers and old tires.  

The risk of dengue is present through the Cook Islands and particularly on the island of Rarotonga.  

Be sensible and take precautions. Use insect repellent (tropical strength), wear long trousers, burn mosquito coils and keep mosquito screens shut on windows and doors in your house. 

Mosquito coils cost around $1.50 for a pack of 8 and are available everywhere. There are some nice smelling (frangipani) scented coils.  An old dish or saucepan is a good idea for a safe way to have incense burning inside your house all the time. 

Trusty mosquito repellent coils. Get them burning!

Dangerous animals?

There are no venomous snakes or insects. But centipedes bite and the coral reefs and stone-fish should be treated with caution…

That, plus there is the necessity to train your eye to recognise suspicious-but-small mounds of sand in the garden that may be home to biting red ants. (Our kids have quickly grown accustomed to the trusty red-ant-stomp that shakes these babies off; but the bites do sting with note!). 

Be aware of:

A pair reef shoes is a good idea if you are going snorkeling. 

And moko. You will get very used to seeing these daily!

Phone and Internet

Vodafone is the sole communications provider in the Cook Islands.  Due to this monopoly prices for internet and data are expensive.  

If you are considering moving as a digital nomad then be sure to look closely at the figures before making your decision.  

Prepay bundles with Vodafone are available for top up at convenience stores and supermarkets once you have purchased a local SIM card. 

Prepay bundles 

Monthly phone plans are a good option for local calls and texts, however data is limited. 

Mobile postpay plans

Home internet and wifi is available with Vodafone.  There is a one-off charge to set up and install a new Vodafone modem.  

Monthly broadband options

Religion

The majority religion in the Cook Islands is Christianity, with about 70 percent of the population belonging to the Cook Islands Christian Church.

Sunday is a day of rest of the island and most of Avarua is closed.  

You will be warmly welcomed to attend a local church service at one of the many beautiful Cook Islands Christian Churches dotted around the island.  (If it is your first time attending church in the Pacific Islands then you are in luck!  There is nothing quite like the sound of Pacific Island hymns and harmonies). 

Inside the beautiful CICC Arorangi.

What you might need (consider adding to your shipping)

What else might you need?

Swimming lessons; island style!

What would we suggest NOT to bring? 

Moving to Rarotonga with kids 

Rarotonga is a wonderful place to live with kids!  Coming from New Zealand, it is different enough to feel exciting while familiar enough to feel safe.  

It’s a great place to explore with kids and the lifestyle is perfect for making friends. Overall it’s an amazing place to be with kids!

Making the move to Rarotonga

If you are after a life that is beautiful; a life that is friendly; and a lifestyle that is unique only to the Pacific Islands…

Then Rarotonga is for you!

Get yourself a pareu, grab a coconut and embrace the amazing island culture. It truly is amazing!

Read more from the Cook Islands

What else? 

Have we convinced you to seriously consider moving to Rarotonga?!

Leave a comment below with any suggestions of tips or information we could add to this guide. And let us know if you have any questions about moving to Rarotonga. 

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