Away With The Steiners

Saudi Arabia Travel guide: Everything you need to know about KSA.

Sarah Steiner

Considering Saudi Arabia?  Visiting KSA and this part of the Middle East is somewhere that has been on our bucket list for a long time and this year we finally got to visit. But deciding where to go in a country so big is not easy; so we went ALL over.  Here is our Saudi Arabia travel guide with everything you need to know to plan your visit too. 

About Saudi Arabia, quickly

Travel guide for Saudi Arabia starting in the city of Riyadh.
Welcome to Saudi Arabia (and the beautiful capital city of Riyadh).

Why visit Saudi Arabia? 

While the country has always received many visitors for Hajj and Umrah (pilgrimages) it has been essentially (effectively) closed off entirely for tourism until 2019. 

Now it is open with a tourist visa; yet it still remains a bit of a mystery as far as mainstream tourism goes…

But for those of us (guilty) who have a particular passion for countries away from the mainstream tourist trail; Saudi Arabia fits perfectly… 

Travel in Saudi Arabia with kids

The Kingdom of Saudi Arabia is a Middle Eastern country that makes up the vast majority of the Arabian Peninsula.  In other words, it’s huge! 

It’s not the most common tourist destination to head for with kids but I am going to tell you about how we found it a truly great – and incredibly hospitable – travel destination that was perfect for a road trip adventure…

Joining in an auction at the bazaar in Riyadh (our first day in Riyadh; no probs!).

Visas

It’s great news regarding visas for Saudi Arabia as a traveller. International visitors from 49 countries can apply for an eVisa for Saudi Arabia.  And a whole lot of those 49 can also (check pandemic changes to regulations) actually apply for a Visa on Arrival.  

In order to enter Saudi Arabia (at any border entry point) visitors travelling with an eVisa also need: 

But here’s how we did it.  Crossing to Saudi Arabia from Bahrain on the King Fahd Causeway we hadn’t pre-arranged eVisas for Saudi.  We had done (and had fingers crossed) as much research as we could find out and understood that there was a theory we could get a Visa on Arrival at the causeway border.  

And if not; we would need to hook to the wifi (literally) at the visa office right there and apply for and receive an eVisa.  

This was in fact what ended up happening.  And so in doing so we entered Saudi Arabia with kids and four times eVisas in our hands at the crossing. 

The varied scenes of Saudi Arabia from village to city and beyond.

Getting to Saudi Arabia

There are four international airports in Saudi Arabia that travellers can enter with an eVisa: 

And it is also possible to enter Saudi Arabia overland from the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Bahrain.  Which is exactly what we did.  

I have written a separate guide to the overland border crossing from the Kingdom of Bahrain to Saudi Arabia.  And about how to enter overland into Saudi Arabia with kids in tow. (Note: It isn’t actually that hard). 

From Bahrain, entry to the country is via the King Fahd Bridge border checkpoint.  This is a 25km causeway from Bahrain to the city of Khobar (less than 50km from Dammam). 

Entry into Saudi Arabia by road from the UAE is via the Al Batha border crossing.  This is located on the Emirates’ Western border approximately 500 km southeast of Riyadh.

Crossing the King Fahd Bridge from Bahrain to Saudi Arabia.

Currency and cash in Saudi Arabia

The Saudi riyal is the currency of Saudi Arabia.  The exchange rate in 2024 is as below:

Cash comes in notes of 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 Rs. 

ATM’s and money

There are many ATM’s on the roadside in Saudi Arabia (and quite seriously there are plenty of drive-through ATM’s lining the highways and huge petrol station stops!). 

The first ATM we used was less than 1km after entering KSA (while we were still on the King Fahd Causeway middle island).  The most common banks we found and used with our international bank cards while in Saudi Arabia were:

Each of these ATM’s worked for us each time and had the menu option in English on the first page of display. 

Al Rajhi Bank (somewhere on the way to Yanbu) showing the male and female entrances at this branch.

Language

Going in to shops and restaurants in the big cities you will find people that speak some English.  However out in rural Saudi Arabia an English translation is much more limited.  

It is hugely appreciated if you can greet and thank people you meet in Arabic.  And even if you can’t speak much more than that; do not worry! The people of Saudi Arabia are extremely hospitable and welcoming and will make sure you are comfortable even without a common language to do so. 

Can you see the village? This is Saudi Arabia.

Our itinerary around Saudi Arabia 

Here is our itinerary from a month of travel in Saudi Arabia.   We started in the North and headed towards the capital by train; flew out west and then drove by rental car to the beautiful south of the country…

Plus we visited Taif, Halaba, Al Bahah and Al Qunfuddah as towns we stayed at least one night in during our trip around by rental car in East and southern Saudi Arabia! 

Places to visit in Saudi Arabia

Alright. The country is HUGE.  It is in fact the 13th largest country in the world by land size area so there is much to see.  And each of the different regions of the country is very different from the last.  

Here are the highlights from our time in Saudi Arabia with what we would recommend you prioritise in each place…

Dammam

The northern coastal city of Dammam is somewhere that has boomed since the discovery of oil and thus petrol in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.  From the history we observed on display at the incredible Heritage Village in Dammam (see below) it was a fairly average-sized city before the boom of industry and the rush of people moving to the area.  

Things to do in Dammam

The historic and heritage village in Dammam is somewhere we highly recommend.

Transportation from Dammam

Al Hofuf

Known also as Al Hufuf, this city of Saudi Arabia in the Eastern Province not only has one of the largest oil fields in the world but is also one of the largest date producers in the world.  Al Hofuf is situated in the largest oasis in the world with huge groves of palm trees; counted at over two million.

Things to do in Al Hofuf

Entering the historic souq in Al Hofuf.

Riyadh

This is the capital city of Saudi Arabia and there are endless options of sights to see and activities to do in Riyadh; literally from luxury tours and restaurants to hiking on the outskirts at the famous ‘Edge of the World’. 

Things to do in Riyadh

This is Riyadh with kids!

Transportation from Riyadh

AlUla

The very famous Madain Saleh is located near the city of AlUla and is the iconic image you will have seen of Hegra; the beautiful rock city in the desert that looks a lot like neighbouring Petra in Jordan. 

The official AlUla website has all the information for visiting Hegra and buying tickets online.  

Things to do in AlUla

Incredible Hegra in AlUla.

Yanbu

A port city of the Red Sea coast of Saudi Arabia (and for us a halfway(ish) point between AlUla and Jeddah in the south).  Yanbu is actually the second largest port city on the south of the country (after Jeddah) and one of the oldest seaports on the Red Sea with history dating back approximately 2500 years. 

Things to do in Yanbu

The beautiful historical centre of Yanbu.

Jeddah

The port city of Jeddah has long been regarded as Saudi Arabia’s cultural capital; the perfect blend of old and new.  Jeddah has always served as the gateway to Mecca, Islam’s holiest city.  And as a result has been heavily influenced by the influx of pilgrims it has received over the centuries. 

Things to do in Jeddah

It’s all happening in the old city of Al Balad in downtown Jeddah.

Transportation from Jeddah

Al Bahah

Al Bahah is one of Saudi Arabia’s prized destinations; not only for international visitors but for domestic tourism as well.  It enjoys a pleasant climate and is surrounded  by natural sights and beauty with more than 40 forests and waterfalls. 

Things to do in Al Bahah

Travel tip: I’m adding this as an official travel tip in our Saudi Arabia travel guide because the beautiful King Fahd Mountain Pass is worth a drive just for the views of epic valleys and villages. Even if you aren’t stopping and staying in Al Bahah I would recommend coming this way around towards Abha. 

Hilltop village sand stone buildings (hidden) en route to Abha.

Abha

The hilltop city of Abha is the capital city of the Aseer Province in the southwest of the country.  It’s known as a summer playground or resort town for Saudi nationals (to escape the heat of the desert cities during the peak of summer holidays) as well as hosting tourists from all over the GCC that flock here to escape the sweltering summer heat.

(So do note; it can get particularly busy during those summer months and accommodation prices not only skyrocket but make it hard to find somewhere to stay. Plan ahead with that one… 

Things to do in Abha

The incredible historic village of Rijal Almaa.

Transportation from Abha

Food in Saudi Arabia (you need to try)

Food plays a very important role in traditional Saudi Arabian culture and is seen as a symbol of hospitality. 

The most common food items you will come across on your travels in Saudi Arabia include rice, chicken, lamb, spices, yoghurt, potatoes, bread and dates.  LOTS of dates. 

And there was that time our host family cooked us an entire FEAST in Saudi!

What kind of food will the kids eat while we’re in Saudi Arabia?

It’s definitely a fair call to be contemplating travel in Saudi Arabia with kids and wondering what on earth they are likely to eat while you’re there…  

Here are some firm favourites we found during our month of travels (that was not including the supermarket packaged treats that I do admit were also handy when in transit on a road trip between cities!). 

Travelling with kids in Saudi Arabia is an amazing experience!

Also note that most markets don’t open until late afternoon (around 4pm).  AND I have to say that only a couple of hotels out of alllll the different ones we stayed at actually included breakfast in the room charge.  (I mean seriously they barely even offered utensils or crockery).  

So don’t get the idea of filling up on breakfasts for the days adventures.  Best to head to the markets or find a roadside restaurant (we can recommend a few of those we enjoyed!). 

Transportation in Saudi Arabia 

Saudi Arabia is a huge country to travel around. (Remember; it’s the 13th biggest country in the world by land-size!).  But the good news is that it is also a country with multiple options for travel – overland, by public transport (train) or by flight. 

Here is what we found about transportation in Saudi Arabia condensed into the following Saudi Arabia travel guide! 

Getting around Saudi Arabia by train

The Dammam-Riyadh train line offers a (relatively) budget-friendly way to travel between the largest Saudi cities (with a view). 

There are six daily departures on two trains (one operating Sunday through Thursday and the other on Thursdays and Saturdays). 

The trains we went on between Dammam and Riyadh have Premium (1st) class and Standard (2nd) class, a café on board and even a prayer area.

Tickets between Dammam and Riyadh cost: 

There is also a North Train that connects Riyadh to the north of Saudi Arabia and serves the following stations: 

And the Haramain High-Speed Railway popular with pilgrims is the latest and fastest train in the Middle East, operating between the holy cities of Makkah and Medina in western Saudi Arabia. It serves the following stations: Makkah, Jeddah, King Abdullah Economic City and Medina.  (Note you cannot visit Makkah as a non-Muslim tourist). 

Travelling by train in Saudi Arabia = NO WORRIES!

Getting around Saudi Arabia by rental car

Although you might have heard tales fast and erratic driving in Saudi Arabia (sorry; they’re mostly true) and be put off the consideration of hiring a car in Saudi; it is actually a great way to get around the country. (As long as you’re a confident driver).  Because the country is geographically HUGE! 

There are maddening crowds and traffic in the big cities, mountain switchbacks (looking at you, Abha) and dark desert highways that stretch for literally miles on end.  

But in actual fact road conditions are fairly good and when we rented a car and drove in Saudi Arabia (ok, Gavin drove) this year we had a great experience and found it an economical way to get from one side of the country to (almost literally) the other.

Cars in Saudi Arabia are left-hand drive and automatic transmission is standard.

And luckily, petrol in Saudi Arabia is cheap (no surprises there).  Petrol costs about 1.5 riyal/L ($0.40 USD) for 91 and 2 riyal/L ($0.50 USD) for 95.  

Note: As a non-resident (tourist) you do need to have an International Driving Permit (IDP) to rent a car and drive in Saudi Arabia.  

We hired a car through Avis rentals and found their service particularly good.  We picked up the car in Tabuk and returned it to Jeddah three weeks later. A great experience. 

Signs for the roads TO Meccah and the ring road AROUND.

Getting around Saudi Arabia by plane 

Getting to Saudi Arabia is easy these days with four international airports served by a wealth of different international carriers.  

Saudi Arabia also operates 15 domestic airports around the country with three carriers that make short hops between regions fairly cost effective too. 

It’s easy to book flights online through each carriers website (or using a larger flight scanning app or site). 

Travelling by plane in Saudi is easy.

Getting around Saudi Arabia by taxi

It’s fairly easy to get a taxi in the major cities of Saudi Arabia.  (In Dammam we were picked up by a taxi driver who said he couldn’t bear to see us outside in the heat and insisted on dropping us off for free!). 

The cheapest option is definitely Uber although sometimes we found with the long wait time it wasn’t the most sensible choice (especially waiting in the heat with kids).  

In Dammam an Uber for 3km cost us around 15SAR.  And in Riyadh during the peak evening time we got an Uber for 10km for 45SAR.  

Sometimes it’s worth a taxi or Uber into town to be dropped off.

Budgeting for Saudi Arabia

There’s no need to beat around the bush with this part of the travel guide for Saudi.   Whether you are in Saudi Arabia with kids or not; it is an expensive country to travel in. 

Not only is it above average costs for the daily budget as a traveller; it is expensive to enter the country (see above section about visas) unless you are a Gulf country citizen or resident worker.  But there are different options for food and drinks (like a supermarket or finding a smaller non-chain restaurant) that can help to budget for your trip… 

This green and yellow logo for mini/supermarkets are everywhere throughout the country.

Connectivity and WIFI

WIFI is a bit hit and miss across accommodation in Saudi Arabia.  (That’s putting it politely. Don’t get your hopes up; sorry). We’ve have some hotels that were great and WIFI 

was fast and included in the price.  And then others where the signal is so weak it can’t even pick up the supposed ‘free WIFI’… 

The major cities have 5G mobile reception which with a local SIM and data makes it the most efficient way to navigate the country (especially if driving by car as the distances between cities – or even shops or villages where people might help – are huge). 

SIM cards and data

There are 3 main operators in Saudi Arabia: STC, Mobily and Zain.  

They have similar packages and prices and coverage is great in the cities. All the SIM cards are valid for 7 or 30 days in Saudi Arabia.

From what information I could find before we arrived (we needed a Saudi Arabia travel guide and hence creating this one!) it sounded like STC is the best option (it’s the largest phone operator in the country). 

Prices for a prepaid STC sim card in Saudi Arabia: 

SIM card registration is mandatory in Saudi Arabia and will be done at the point of sale (using your passport information).  And you also have to provide your fingerprint for additional security (true). 

Buying an STC SIM in Dammam after we arrived.

Accommodation options in Saudi Arabia 

Alright this area of our Saudi Arabia travel guide is going to just be honest and let you know what accommodation in Saudi Arabia is like.  

I wouldn’t rate it.  I assume if you have lots of money and are traveling in luxury through the Kingdom (as many domestic and international travellers are) as it is renowned for; then truly your options are limited.  There are not backpacker hostels or even backpacker-type places to stay yet.  It’s only early days. 

So there is a weird combination of budget chain hotels (OYO) that aren’t in fact actually budget prices.  And smaller hotels trying to offer what might have once looked like luxury accommodation (headboards so big the bed hardly fits in the room and lace and overexaggerated furniture).  

But the most odd thing about the accommodation has to be in the kitchens.  Seriously, some of the kitchens are ridiculously enormous.  Huge cook-tops, full-size catering ovens, fridges and a huge dining.  But no cutlery and no crockery and no pots and pans.  Like; none at all.  

And if you go to the reception to ask if you might have a cup to use with the provided electric kettle they look at you very strangely.  They might if you’re lucky call housekeeping who will need the security guard to translate your very unusual request and might provide you with a paper cup (even two) for a hot drink.  Nice. 

But overall we did manage to make our way around the country trialling a range of accommodation options.  Some we would recommend and stay in again and some maybe not.  

Our enormous kitchen at one hotel (and if you zoom in you will see the one paper cup provided!). Every cupboard is completely empty…

Where we stayed in Saudi Arabia

Here is a list of where we stayed during our travels in Saudi Arabia.  

Our basic but functional room in Yanbu at OYO.

Your Saudi Arabia travel guide

So there you have it!

Your complete Saudi Arabia travel guide plus much more to keep you planning/dreaming/scheming for your Arabian adventure to come.  Have fun and enjoy this incredible country that has for so many years been a mystery to most of the world. 

We had a truly fantastic time and hope you do too.  

Happy travels in KSA! 

More about travel planning for Saudi and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

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