Away With The Steiners

Taiwan with kids: A complete travel guide (mountains, beaches and dumplings).

Exploring Taiwan with kids is the perfect mixture of adventure, challenge, taste and culture. For a (relatively) small island nation Taiwan has a lot to offer and is home to vibrant culture, modern cities, sandy beaches, temples, FOOD and dramatic mountain terrain.

And in case you are wondering where on earth to start with planning your trip to Taiwan…

We went all around Taiwan with kids!

We headed for Taiwan with a fascination for taking the old logging train up into the Alishan Mountains. There wasn’t a lot of information available to explain exactly how to go about that; but we were determined and loved the idea of hiking up in the high forests and tea country hills.

And from there we quite literally completed a loop around the entire island.

Travel in Taiwan with kids makes for a interesting, fun and safe family destination. We would go back in a heartbeat!

So start here to find out where we went, some tips for your trip and what we would recommend to plan…

About Taiwan, quickly

Best time to visit Taiwan (with kids)

September to November is considered the best time weather-wise to visit Taiwan.

There aren’t technically four easily divisible seasons to Taiwan due to it’s geographical location near-ish to the equator, though this time of year most closely resembles autumn.

It is fair to say that summer in Taiwan is both hot and humid with temperatures routinely sitting around 30°C.

Winters in Taiwan are pretty mild and temperatures rarely drop below 10°C unless you are up in the mountain regions. 

We visited in June and found the temperature pleasant in the cities and coastal areas and not too cold for us to handle up in the mountains of Alishan. 

Regardless however, no matter when you visit this beautiful island you are guaranteed an exciting and memorable trip. 

Visiting Alishan, Taiwan with kids.
Comfortable daytime weather in the mountain regions of Chiayi.

Money in Taiwan

ATMs are widely available around Taiwan at banks and convenience stores.  Credit cards are accepted at most midrange and top-end hotels and at top-end restaurants.

Taiwan’s currency is the New Taiwan dollar (NT$).

Taiwan uses the NT dollar exclusively.

Language

The official language of Taiwan is Mandarin Chinese. Standard Chinese Mandarin and Taiwanese Mandarin are mostly mutually intelligible. But Hakka and Formosan languages are also recognized national languages of Taiwan.

And no (sorry!), from now-personal experience Mandarin is not an easy language to pick up on an adventure around the country.

But it is a good idea to focus on and learn the basics (hello: ni hao; thank you: xie xie at the very least).

Without any claims to fluency during our adventures in Taiwan with kids; here are some very basic Mandarin phrases you might find helpful…

The good news as a traveller in Taiwan is that English is reasonably widely spoken in the cities (this is not the case up in the hill country and mountains of Alishan. More about that later).

But street signs are written in Chinese characters with English translations. And on the trains, the stops are announced in Mandarin, English, Taiwanese Hokkien and Hakka.

Otherwise, it’s easy to have a translation app on your phone or ask hotel staff to write destinations for you on a piece of paper to show your driver that day.

Don’t worry about the language barrier ordering food in Taiwan… Tasty is universal!

Our itinerary for Taiwan with kids 

Our itinerary in Taiwan with the kids took us right around the entire island.

We had an inland detour to visit the beautiful Alishan National Scenic Area up into the mountains of the Chiayi Region.

Places to visit in Taiwan

See below for the highlights of each stop on our loop around Taiwan with kids and recommendations for the best things to do in each place.

Taipei – Taiwan with kids

Taiwan’s capital city of Taipei is a fantastic destination for families!

It is easy to navigate, safe to get around and there is plenty to do if you are visiting Taiwan with kids or are in East Asia for the first time.

There are beautiful temples, markets full of Taiwanese street food, playgrounds, culture and history…

Things to do in Taipei

Impressive views to Taipei 101 from the cable car.

Taichung – Taiwan with kids

Taichung is Taiwan’s second largest city and a colourful and vibrant place to explore.

It’s easy to reach Taichung from Taipei by high speed rail which for us, added to the adventure!

Things to do in Taichung

Enjoying the Science Museum in Taichung.

Chiayi

The city of Chiayi is usually a jumping-off point for getting up into the fabled mountains of Alishan but it is worth a day or two to explore on its own. 

Things to do in Chiayi

Arriving in Chiayi from the train station.

Alishan and the Hill Country of Chiayi

Getting up into the Alishan Mountains was our most sought after destination for our time in Taiwan. We wanted the full experience of taking the old Forest Railway up into the hills.

Alishan is a beautiful mountainous area in Taiwan. It’s a region renowned for breathtaking sunrises, lush forests and landscapes with centuries old towering cypress trees.

That, and the fact that the Alishan National Scenic area is packed full of great hikes through misty forests and is most commonly reached by taking the historical forest railway that winds slowly like it has done for generations, high up into rolling tea plantations and further up into the mountains. 

Boarding the train in Chiayi.

Things to do in Alishan

Hiking the beautiful old logging trails of Fenchihu, Alishan.

Kaohsiung

Kaohsiung city is located in southern Taiwan at the very tip of the island, although it can be reached easily by train from Taipei. 

Things to do in Kaohsiung

Just for the record, shrimp fishing is not something I ever imagined doing. But when in Taiwan…

Kenting

Kenting National Park encompasses the southern tip of Taiwan and is popular among travellers looking for a relaxed experience.

The coastline is rugged and beautiful with a slew of outdoor activities to keep you occupied.

Things to do in Kenting

Trying go-karting in Kenting.

East Coast Taiwan

Driving up the East Coast of Taiwan well and truly shattered any last pre-conceived ideas of how industrialised I had imagined Taiwan to be. 

There were not enough hours in the day to stop at every sight, beach or little cove that caught our eye.

The scale of infrastructure on the last stretch north of the coastal highway is probably the only reminder of those huge links with China.

And, perhaps only more so in comparison with day ones narrow rural roads in Taitung, where I literally left fingernail marks in my thighs gripping on as Gavin drove so carefully up roads that should surely have been made to cater one-way only…

Things to do in East Coast Taiwan

Impressive Sanxiantai Bridge.

Travel in Taiwan with kids

Taiwan is renowned as one of the safest countries in the world.

Geographically speaking, it’s not enormous and so making a loop around the country sounds manageable with kids even before looking any deeper.

As well as being safe, it is also up there with Japan as a land of convenience – it quite seriously has the highest concentration of 7-Eleven stores in the world!

Food in Taiwan is cheap, easy (convenience stores and street markets) and there’s something that even the fussiest of kids will pick.  

It’s easy to get around Taiwan by train and especially if you come from a train-riding country (read: New Zealand is not one of those but we managed it with no worries!).

You will find navigating Taiwan with kids an easy destination.

Out exploring Taiwan with kids.

Taiwanese food

If it was based on the number of dumplings consumed since we landed, we would officially now be ‘experts’ on Taiwanese food (especially dumplings).

We loved trying it ALL!

I have dedicated an entire seperate post to the dumplings, tapioca bubbles, fish ball soup and more…

Hot sweetcorn in Kaohsiung.

One challenge from Taiwan?

“Taiwanese people are very conscious about disturbing other people, and so young children are generally taught to be quiet and well-behaved in public”. 

It’s funny, because it was only once we got to Alishan that we read the section about ‘Travelling with Children’ in the Taiwan Lonely Planet Guide… 

A lovely description; just rather less lovely and more anxiety causing as I read this aloud over the cries of another brotherly scuffle… If you know, you’ll know what I mean!

However, the mountains and beaches and space of Taiwan was perfect for traveling with kids.

We walked and climbed for miles; slid down a few too many steps; and uncovered all kinds of mountain life that walks, grows, flies and crawls up in the beautiful mountains and right around the coasts.

Taiwanese pipe-boats and plenty of space to explore.

Accommodation options for travel in Taiwan with kids

Within the major cities of Taiwan there is plenty of accommodation available that can easily be booked online.  Options range from high end hotels and resorts to budget friendly hostels. 

In the rural and scenic areas of Taiwan, homestays are becoming more popular (called minus). Families have set up bed-and-breakfast style accommodation to take advantage of increasing tourism.

We stayed in these kind of homestays in Alishan and Taimali with varying standards of furnishings and breakfasts included.

In the bigger cities (Taipei and Kaohsiung) I’d recommend to pick somewhere to stay within walking distance of an MRT station so you can easily use that to get around town and to the intercity train stations. 

Where we stayed in Taiwan

Our room at Cullinan Hotel in Hualien.
Basic but comfortable accommodation in southern Taiwan.

Getting around Taiwan with kids

Taiwan has a pretty awesome transportation system. We used bullet trains (HSR), over-rail, the subway, old forest trains, taxis, Uber, buses and shuttles. But the best time we had travelling Taiwan was the legs we did in our rental car.

Gavin smashed the driving (and loved it) winding so carefully up roads that I hope never to drive again…

But that were so worth it.

Colourful art outside Taichung train station.

Train travel in Taiwan

Traveling by train in Taiwan is a great option for the west coast. There is regular over rail and an amazing high speed rail (HSR) system connecting the major cities of the west coast from top to almost bottom.

The single line has 12 stops between Taipei in the north and Kaohsiung (Zuoying Station) in the south.

Train tickets do sell out fast so it is worth booking in advance to ensure you get a seat. We went to the Central Train Station on day one in Taipei and booked all of our tickets for each Taiwan destination from there. 

Tickets for the HSR are more expensive than the regular train but the speed of arriving at your desired destination is more than twice as fast. 

However it is easy to connect from the HSR to the centre by metro or regular over rail.

Taiwan trains are easy to navigate (even for train-novices like us!).

Budget for Taiwan

We had just under a month in Taiwan and found it to be very affordable for budget-mid-range accommodation.

Street food is still cheap and each city has designated night markets and street food markets which are well worth tracking down!

This is the what we spent as a daily budget for travel in Taiwan with kids:

Connectivity and wifi

Buying a prepaid SIM card in Taiwan is very affordable.

It’s not quite as cheap as Southeast Asia but bear in mind that most accommodation has wifi included.

The three biggest telecommunications companies in Taiwan are:

All three have similar prepaid phone plans and affordable prices.

It’s easy to get a SIM card on arrival at Taipei International Airport.

Chunghwa Telecom has the following tourist prepaid SIM plans:

There are more options available with Chunghwa and likewise with the other providers. 

One thing we’d do differently if we went again?

Taiwan was everything we hoped it would be. The boys attract a different kind of attention here than they did in SE Asia (where people were all over them, squishing cheeks and taking photos!).

Here people are so pleased when the boys say hello or thank you in Chinese, and have a more gentle approach to meeting us (which in itself is quite a worry as we bowl on in with two raucous boys!).

We would love to come back and could easily spend longer – to work on our Chinese AND our knowledge of Taiwanese food!

Getting our Zen on?

For one last glimpse of Taiwan; here’s us getting all Feng Shui building Zen towers beside the beach… (maybe travel has changed us?!). 

*Hopeful laugh…

Seriously though, Taiwan is amazing. If anyone is considering Taiwan for a holiday; do.

And if you aren’t considering it; also do! It’s beautiful and it’s friendly. It’s full of surprises. And it’s tasty! 

More useful links for your travel in Taiwan with kids and beyond

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

Read more about travel in East Asia

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