Sri Lanka’s hill country is iconic and picturesque, and no wonder – seeing the tea plantations from the wide open windows of the old hill trains in Sri Lanka is an uplifting kind of feeling! The hills themselves are beautiful, and so is the taste of specialty tea grown in the Sri Lankan hill country.
We knew that for us a huge drawcard of Sri Lanka was the South Coast and beaches, but we were curious about the hill country too. We loved the thought of the vastly contrasting landscapes from what looked to be on the map a seemingly small island nation.
So if you have seen the iconic photographs of train travel in Sri Lanka and you too want to hang out those windows, read on.
It isn’t too tricky to organise a week in hill country; and there is no shortage of things to do in Central Sri Lanka. Here is everything to know about the trains in Sri Lanka Hill Country.
- Sri Lanka Hill Country
- Choosing Where To Go
- Kandy
- Nuwara Eliya
- Ella
- Booking Trains
- Getting There
- Where To Stay
Exploring Sri Lanka’s Hill Country
Sri Lanka’s hill country is undeniably captivating, offering a lush contrast to the coconut-lined beaches of the coast and the bustling energy of cities like Colombo and Negombo.
Though while the terrain is rugged, reaching the highlands is a manageable adventure that never feels overwhelming—even when traveling with kids.
Inland Sri Lanka:
You can’t help but love Inland Sri Lanka.
For the contrast, the history and of course, the tea:
- The Heritage: The region is steeped in hundreds of years of history, adding a layer of depth to the stunning scenery.
- The Tea: This is the heart of tea production, where some of the finest blends in the world are grown in Sri Lanka’s inland tea stations.
- The Charming Towns: The most famous colonial-era settlements include Kandy, Nuwara Eliya, and Ella.
Getting There
To begin our climb into the hills, we took a local bus from Dambulla to Kandy. The journey took about two hours and was incredibly budget-friendly, costing less than $1 USD per person.
Our Inland Hill Country Itinerary
- Dambulla > bus > Kandy [2 nights]
- Kandy > train > Nuwara Eliya [2 nights]
- Nuwara Eliya > train > Ella [2 nights]
Booking Trains in Sri Lanka: Details (& Realities)
When I first started planning this post about taking the trains in Sri Lanka, I almost felt the need to justify why we pre-booked Second Class reserved tickets. I want to be clear: you can absolutely buy tickets on the day for what are often called the “most scenic railway rides in the world.” However, after seeing the reality at the station, I am so glad we didn’t.
The Scene at Kandy Station
Arriving an hour before departure, we were met with pure chaos. Interestingly, it wasn’t the locals causing the stir—it was the tourists.
We watched as backpackers literally climbed through open train windows and shouted at one another to pass bags through so they could “claim” seats.
Reserved vs. Unreserved
My heart was racing as I imagined having to ‘battle’ for the seats we had paid for.
Fortunately, the drama was short-lived: The conductor arrived and efficiently cleared the Second Class carriage.
Those who had rushed the train only held “Unreserved” tickets. They were ushered out and pointed toward the now-overflowing Third Class section.
Having a Reserved Seat turned a potentially stressful battle into a relaxed journey through the hills. 🙂
Pre-Booking Your Sri Lanka Train Tickets
Booking our tickets online was our version of a “splurge” for this trip. While it costs more than buying them at the station, seeing the hectic crowds in Kandy made me realise it was worth every cent for the peace of mind.
How We Booked
We used Visit Sri Lanka Tours to secure our seats in advance and book our trains in Sri Lanka.
The process was straightforward:
- Hotel Delivery: Our tickets for the first leg (Kandy to Nanu Oya) were waiting for us in an envelope at our hotel in Negombo when we arrived.
- In-Person Pickup: For the second leg (Nanu Oya to Ella), we stopped at the “online tickets” kiosk at the Kandy train station. They printed our physical tickets immediately, which made our eventual departure from Nanu Oya a few days later incredibly easy.
Practical Information
- Travel Times: From Kandy, expect a 4-hour journey to Nuwara Eliya (get off at Nanu Oya station). If you are going all the way to Ella, the total trip takes about 7 hours.
- Costs: If you buy tickets directly at the station, prices are approximately 400 LKR, though this varies depending on the class you choose.
- Food & Drinks: Don’t expect a dining car on the train. But local vendors hop on at every station—or sell through the windows. They have a variety of cooked snacks and packaged treats. Kandy Station also has small shops where you can stock up on water and basic snacks before you board.
Things To Do in Kandy, Nuwara Eliya & Ella
Because trains aside, Sri Lanka’s beautiful Hill Country has lots more to see.
Kandy
As the second-largest city in Sri Lanka, Kandy serves as the perfect jumping-off point for the famous hill country train journeys. It is set on a high plateau and surrounded by tea-covered mountains and lush rainforests, and it is only a three-hour trip from the capital, Colombo.
Between its colonial architecture and sacred religious sites, it’s a city well worth exploring before you head deeper into the tea plantations.
The chance is, if you have come to Sri Lanka with plans for taking the train in hill country, then the most likely (and most well known) of the train journeys starts in Kandy.
Things To Do in Kandy
- Royal Botanical Gardens: Famous for its iconic palm-lined pathways, these gardens house over 4,000 species of plants. While the entrance fee of 2,000 LKR ($10 USD) is relatively high for Sri Lanka, it is well worth it—especially for families, as it’s a beautiful, safe space for kids to run around.
- Temple of the Tooth (Sri Dalada Maligawa): This is one of the most sacred Buddhist shrines in the world, housing a legendary relic: a tooth of the Buddha. Located in the heart of the city, it is a must-visit for both pilgrims and travellers.
- Kandy Lake: For a peaceful (and free!) activity, take a stroll around the central lake. It offers a calm escape from the city’s bustling streets.
- Tea Factory Visit: While Ella is the most popular spot for this, you can easily take a tuk-tuk to a nearby factory in Kandy to learn about the tea-making process early in your trip.
- Lunch at Kandy Muslim Hotel: Don’t be fooled by the name—it’s a restaurant, not a hotel! It’s widely considered the best place to eat in town and is a top choice in the Lonely Planet. We highly recommend the Kottu or a spicy curry; for the kids, the fried rice is excellent.
Nuwara Eliya
Nuwara Eliya is often called “Little England,” and earns its nickname the moment you see its colonial-style bungalows, manicured hedges, and the stately Grand Hotel. It was once a mountain retreat for British tea plantation workers. Though because the town sits at an elevation of 1,868m—a significant climb from Kandy.
It is a charming, relaxing place to spend a few days, but take note: the air is much cooler up here, so you’ll definitely want to pack something warmer.
Plus, High Tea at the Grand Hotel was one of the highlights of getting the trains in Sri Lanka up to Hill Country!
Things to Do in Nuwara Eliya
- Victoria Park: For a small entry fee of $2 USD, this central park is fantastic value. It features beautiful gardens and a playground, making it an excellent low-cost option for families traveling with children.
- High Tea at the Grand Hotel: We discovered this gem by chance since we were staying right behind it. While it’s not exactly a budget activity (especially with a hungry family!), the experience of having High Tea in such a historic, beautifully preserved setting is a wonderful way to soak up the local history.
- Gregory Lake: This massive lake sits in the heart of town. For a few hundred rupees, you can take a boat ride, or simply wander the shoreline to see the local horses and relax in the shaded park areas.
- Tea Factory Tours: Being in the heart of tea country, this is a prime spot to visit a plantation. Most hotels can arrange a tour for you, or you can easily find a guide just by walking through town.
- Nuwara Eliya Markets: This mostly undercover market is a great place for a free stroll. It’s perfect for stocking up on fresh fruit and snacks. Keep an eye out for the vendor selling handmade cotton candy wrapped in newspaper—it’s a local treat we highly recommend!
Ella
Sitting at an elevation of 1,041 meters, Ella is a bit lower and warmer than Nuwara Eliya. It offers a perfect mix of hiking trails, stunning views, and great food. However, a fair warning: Ella is no longer the quiet, hidden gem it once was. It has become a massive tourism hotspot with the now-famous trains in Sri Lanka — and a bit of a “Mecca” for Instagrammers. (Read: Ella is swarming with Instagram-posing tourists!).
But despite the crowds, Ella remains a beautiful and essential stop on any Sri Lankan itinerary. Just manage your expectations—you likely won’t get that famous “solitary” shot of the Nine Arch Bridge without a few dozen other travellers in the frame!
Top Things to Do in Ella
- Hike Little Adam’s Peak: This is the perfect family-friendly alternative to the more grueling Ella Rock. It’s a two-hour return trip from town, or a quick 30-minute uphill walk if you take a tuk-tuk to the base. The 360-degree views of tea plantations are spectacular. Pro tip: Grab a cold coconut from a vendor on your way back down!
- Admire the Nine Arch Bridge: This architectural marvel is an international icon of the Sri Lankan railway. While it is undeniably stunning, it is almost always busy, so try to time your visit between train crossings for the best experience.
- Visit Diyaluma Falls: As Sri Lanka’s second-tallest waterfall, Diyaluma is truly impressive. It requires a tuk-tuk ride followed by a 30-minute hike from the village of Poonagala, but the view is absolutely worth the effort.
- Take a Cooking Class: In our opinion, this is a non-negotiable experience. Sri Lankan cuisine is a vital part of the culture. We had an informal lesson with our guesthouse hosts, which we highly recommend asking for, as it provides a more authentic and personal connection to the food.
Reaching the Sri Lanka Hill Country
To begin your journey on the trains in Sri Lanka and the iconic highland railway, you first need to make your way to either Kandy or Ella. These serve as the main gateways to the inland tracks, and fortunately, both are relatively close to the capital, Colombo.
Taking the Local Bus
We arrived in Kandy by taking a local bus from the Dambulla station. The trip was incredibly straightforward, taking about two hours and costing less than $1 USD per person.
If you are starting in Colombo, jumping on a local bus is just as easy and budget-friendly.
Why You Should Try Local Transport
Even if you aren’t strictly watching your budget, I highly recommend taking a local bus at least once for the sheer experience.
We actually took that advice to heart and traveled our entire route through Sri Lanka using only local buses and trains. While we absolutely loved the trains in Sri Lanka, the bus journeys added a unique layer of adventure to our trip!
Where To Stay in Sri Lanka
Looking for where to stay in Sri Lanka is like searching for accommodation in much of South Asia – a bit like starting the search for a needle in a haystack!
Luckily we had some brilliant accommodation in Sri Lanka that we can recommend.
Here are some of the places we stayed in Sri Lanka:
Accommodation in Sri Lanka – Central
- Negombo: Optimum Residencies
Great proximity to airport and not in main tourist area. Awesome swimming pool; very friendly staff; restaurant onsite. Recommend for first stop in Sri Lanka. - Dambulla: Shan Inn
Great value for money; basic but very friendly and clean; good base for Dambulla. - Kandy: Kandy View Garden Hotel
Amazing views; family run hotel; great breakfast and dinner, spacious rooms. A 5-minute tuk-tuk from town though not really walkable. - Nuwara Eliya: UYou Ceylon Guesthouse
Great location behind Grand Hotel; cheap rooms; basic and clean. Nice breakfast; laundry service; a bit cool/damp at night due to altitude but recommended. - Ella: Samiru Guest Inn
Friendly small 3-room guesthouse; 350m to main street and train station; great breakfast. Owner has a tuk-tuk and also gave us a private cooking lesson in their home!
Accommodation in Sri Lanka – South
- Tissamahara: Peacock Reach Hotel
Great swimming pool! Very friendly staff; spacious room; nice common spaces. Resort-style hotel with restaurant on site; highly recommend. - Tangalle: Blue Horizon Beach Hotel
Basic hotel, very small rooms but awesome views from balcony. Great location for Tangalle though not near swimmable beach. - Mirissa: Edelweiss Villa
Basic ground floor room; swimming pool. Walking distance to Coconut Hill and Mirissa Main Beach; beachfront location. - Weligama: Blue Star Beach Hotel
Very relaxed atmosphere; staff were amazing. Swimming pool and Lebanese restaurant onsite. Only 30-metres to perfect surf beach for beginners; highly recommend staying here. - Galle: Elliot Nature Resort
Handy location 1.5km to bus station and Galle Fort. Basic but clean, comfortable room and small swimming pool. Lovely staff; good value for money.
Read More About Travel in South Asia
- Train Travel In India: A Complete Guide.
- The Sacred River Ganges: Two Days In Varanasi.
- Crossing The Wagah Border From India To Pakistan.
- Pakistan Travel Guide.
- India Travel Guide.
- Money In India: Using ATM’s.
- How To Use A Squat Toilet: Everything You Didn’t Want To Ask…
- Our Complete Packing List For Travel In India.
- The Ultimate Bangladesh Itinerary: 7-, 14- & 21-Days.
More About Travel Planning for Sri Lanka & Beyond
These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It is easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere online.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have insurance before booking any trains in Sri Lanka!