Moldova. The name often evokes images of rolling vineyards, Soviet history, and perhaps a touch of mystery. Because agreeably, Moldova by motorhome isn’t the most obvious choice. But as Europe’s least-visited country, it remains gloriously untamed, offering you as a motorhometraveller a unique and authentic experience far removed from the crowded tourist trails of Western Europe.
Albeit coming from little old New Zealand, crossing the border into Moldova by motorhome couldn’t feel further from home. But we found incredible hospitality, unique food, fascinating history and beautiful landscapes.
So if you’ve conquered the Balkans and are looking for a new frontier of freedom and hospitality, traversing Moldova by motorhome or campervan is an adventure waiting to happen. From navigating its infamous roads to tasting world-class wines and stepping into a breakaway republic, here is your essential guide to conquering this magnificent, compact nation on wheels.
Hey! We are Away With The Steiners. Wondering about buying a motorhome in Europe? Ask us!
Part I: Borders and Infrastructure
Traveling through Moldova by motorhome requires a slight shift in mindset from the smooth highways of its EU neighbours. It really is the road less travelled.
The Roads in Moldova by Motorhome
The first thing every motorhome driver needs to know is the state of the roads in Moldova. While the main transit routes, such as the M1 connecting the capital, Chisinau, to the major Romanian border crossings, are generally in good repair, secondary and local roads can be challenging. (Like, really challenging).
- The Surface: Expect varying quality, from surprisingly smooth sections to potholed, patched asphalt. The biggest challenge is often the sudden changes in surface and the uneven shoulders.
- The Driving Style: Local driving can be assertive. Maintain awareness, drive defensively, and be prepared for spontaneous overtaking and slow-moving farm traffic.
- The Speed: Plan for slower average speeds than you might be used to. This is a journey to be savoured, not rushed. Your motorhome’s robust build will be appreciated here!
Border Crossings: Entry and Exit
For travellers entering Moldova by motorhome, the crossings from Romania are typically used.
- Entry at Oancea (RO) to Cahul (MD): This is a reliable, medium-sized crossing. It’s a good choice if you are coming from the southern region of Romania and heading towards the southern Moldovan wine region. Be prepared for a standard EU-non-EU border procedure: passport checks, vehicle registration review, and potentially a customs inspection. Patience is key.
- Exit at Sculeni (MD) to Sculeni (RO): This crossing, located north-west of Chisinau, is often used when heading toward the northern Romanian cities. It is a major checkpoint and usually well-staffed. Ensure your temporary vehicle import papers (if issued) and your insurance (Green Card) are accessible.
Insurance Note: Ensure your motorhome insurance (Green Card) explicitly covers Moldova (MD). If not, you may need to purchase local border insurance, which is mandatory.
Which Border Crossings Did We Use?
We drove into Moldova in our motorhome from Romania at Oancea (RO) to Cahul (MD) and exited to Romania also from Sculeni (MD) to Sculeni (RO).
- Border Crossing From Romania To Moldova at Oancea (RO) to Cahul (MD).
- Border Crossing From Moldova To Romania Sculeni (MD) to Sculeni (RO).
Service Stations: Moldova by Motorhome
In Moldova, service stations are more than just places to refuel; they are often the most reliable “modern” infrastructure you’ll find on the road. Most major chains offer 24/7 service, clean toilets, decent coffee, and increasingly, high-quality Wi-Fi.
For motorhome travelers, sticking to these well-known brands ensures fuel quality and a higher chance of finding space to maneuver:
- Bemol & Vento: Often the most modern looking, with large forecourts and excellent “Vento Cafe” facilities.
- Petromol & LukOil: Widespread throughout the country, even in more rural regions.
- Rompetrol: Highly regarded for fuel quality and modern amenities.
- Other Notable Chains: Cara Altan, Vales, and Par Star Petrol are reliable local options you will encounter on secondary routes.
Pro Tip: While dedicated “RV Dump Stations” are rare in Moldova, many of the larger Vento or Bemol stations have external taps and drainage areas used by trucks. Always ask the attendant—using the phrase “apa potabila” (drinking water)—before filling your tanks.
Water: Motorhome Travel
One of the most charming and practical features of the Moldovan landscape is the abundance of roadside wells. In almost every town and along many major roads, you will find beautifully decorated, roofed wells.
Part II: Wine, Food, and History: Moldova by Motorhome
Moldova is a country of simple pleasures, where the landscape is dominated by vines and the history is etched into its limestone hills.
Moldova’s Food To Try
Moldovan cuisine is hearty, influenced by Romanian, Russian, and Ukrainian flavours. It is perfect comfort food for a motorhome traveller. We reckon these are the Moldovan Must-Try Dishes:
- Plăcintă: Delicious flat pastries, often filled with cottage cheese, cabbage, or potato. This was our absolute fave. Perfect road trip snacks!
- Mămăligă: A staple, thick cornmeal porridge served as a base for stews or often with cheese and sour cream.
- Zama: A sour chicken soup traditionally made with fermentation brine. Interesting…
- Local Produce: Stop at roadside stalls to buy unbelievably fresh fruit, particularly grapes and watermelons in the summer.
The Incredible Wine Culture & Asconi Winery
Moldova holds the highest density of vineyards per capita in the world. This is not a hobby; it is a national passion, and the prices are astonishingly low compared to global standards.
- Asconi Winery: A must-visit destination for any traveller. Asconi Winery is renowned for its excellent hospitality and beautiful grounds, located just 40 minutes south of Chisinau.
- The Experience: Asconi offers comprehensive tours, tastings, and often has on-site restaurants serving traditional food paired with their wines.
Crucially for motorhomes, they are often accommodating for overnight parking. (Ask ahead, but many Moldovan wineries allow motorhome guests to stay overnight in their parking lots after a tasting). This offers a safe, legal, and picturesque place to sleep.
We stayed the night at Asconi Winery (and it was on my birthday too!). We had a beautiful dinner and I have to say it felt pretty special to park our motorhome in Moldova at a winery. I would highly recommend Asconi Winery. (Definitely add that to your Moldova list!).
Orheiul Vechi (Old Orhei)
Easily accessible from Chisinau, Orheiul Vechi is the country’s main cultural attraction and a must-see. This stunning historical and archaeological complex is set in a dramatic, rocky gorge carved by the Răut River.
- What to See: The centrepiece is the Cave Monastery, carved into the sheer limestone cliff face, with a beautiful 13th century Orthodox church perched atop the ridge.
- Motorhome Parking: You can usually find convenient parking near the small museum or the main viewpoint, allowing you to walk down into the gorge and explore the historical village below.
Part III: The Capital and the Enclave
Chisinau has a rich history, a unique culture to learn about and interesting new foods to try.
Parking and Sightseeing in Chisinau
Parking in Chisinau with a motorhome requires a little forward planning, as central street parking is often congested and designed for smaller vehicles.
During the daytime in Chisinau we parked at the NR1 Hypermarket.
Though we found a great park for the night in Chisinau and ended up there for two nights of our travels in Moldova by motorhome.
CHISINAU, STRADA GHIOCEILOR
- Location: Parking Strada Ghioceilor, Chisinau
- Type: Parking Lot Day / Night
- Park4Night: #121984
- Cost: Free
- Services: Parking
About: This is a great (free) parking spot in Chisinau just near to the beach (yes; in Moldova) and promenade around the lakeside.
We had a quiet couple of nights stay here. Although it is worth noting not to be alarmed if when the park does get busy in the late hours of the afternoon and vehicles may double park assuming you are staying the night.
Things to Do in Chisinau: Moldova by Motorhome
We really enjoyed the unique vibe of Chisinau visiting Moldova by motorhome. You must visit the Central Market. But food aside, there are plenty of things to do in Chisinau that are in walking distance from parking in the centre of town:
- Parcul Central: Walk through the central park and see the Triumphal Arch and the Nativity Cathedral.
- Central Market: Dive into the chaos and colour of the Piața Centrală for a true taste of local life.
- Pushkin Museum: Visit the house where the great Russian poet Alexander Pushkin lived during his exile in the 1820s.
- Ciuflea Monastery: A Moldovan Orthodox monastery in the heart of the city.
- Stefan cel Mare si Sfant Boulevard: Touted as the cultural heart of Chisinau.
Plus there are lots more to do in and around the Central Market and Central Park.
The Trip to Transnistria: Moldova by Motorhome
For the adventurous traveller, visiting the separatist region of Transnistria (The Pridnestrovian Moldavian Republic, PMR) is a fascinating, if sometimes tense, day trip.
Crossing the Border: Moldova to Transnistria
It is often recommended to leave your motorhome parked safely in Chisinau and hire a taxi or use a marshrutka (minibus) for the 2 hour drive to Tiraspol. But we drove our motorhome from Moldova to Tiraspol and do (now) recommend that!
You will pass through military checkpoints where you must present your passport and vehicle papers (if driving). You will receive a migration card detailing your length of stay (usually 10 hours for tourists). Do not lose this card.
Things To Do in Tiraspol
Certainly, some (most) of the sites in Tiraspol are unique. Tiraspol is a living Soviet museum, complete with Lenin statues and hammers and sickles. It is a unique historical anomaly, but be discreet with photography and ensure you exit before your migration card expires.
There are quite a few things to do in Tiraspol to look at on a day trip from Chisinau:
- Green Market
- Suvorov Monument
- House of Soviets
- Transnistrian Government Building
- Catherine The Great Park
- Tiraspol Cinema
- Mig-19 Monument
- Nativity Cathedral
- City House Of Culture
And of course you can’t leave Tiraspol without trying the popular Kvass drink!
Conclusion: Motorhome in Moldova
Moldova is waiting to be explored, and doing Moldova by motorhome offers a level of immersion few tourists experience. Yes, the roads demand caution, and the borders require patience. But the rewards—unbeatable hospitality, ancient cave monasteries, and the sheer delight of parking overnight at a sprawling, accommodating winery—make the journey truly worthwhile.
Pack your plăcintă, charge your GPS, and discover the soul of Europe’s wine-soaked, captivating secret! Enjoy!
Read More About Travel in Eastern Europe
- Things To Do In Bucharest, Romania.
- Border Crossing: Romania to Moldova.
- Border Crossing: Kosovo to North Macedonia.
- Things To Do In Podgorica, Montenegro.
- Things To Do In Belgrade, Serbia.
- Border Crossing: Serbia to Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- Border Crossing: Bosnia to Montenegro.
- Things To Do In Chisinau, Moldova.
More Useful Links for Your Travels in Europe and Beyond
These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It is easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere online.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Make sure you have insurance before embarking on travel in Moldova by motorhome!