Away With The Steiners

Pakistan Travel Guide: Everything you wanted to ask about travel in Pakistan.

Sarah Steiner

I’d read a few blogs about travel in Pakistan, and I’d heard about Pakistani hospitality before our first visit.  But I can promise you that nothing quite prepared us for how humbling and welcoming it would feel in real life and just how much we would treasure our travel in Pakistan…

Fast forward two years on and we’ve now travelled four times on four separate trips to Pakistan! 

I think it’s fair to say it is unanimously one of our favourite countries we’ve ever travelled. 

This is our guide to travel in Pakistan with everything we wanted to know about Pakistan from what to see and eat, to what to wear and how best to get around to answer all the questions we had before visiting for our first time too. 

First a little bit about Pakistan…

Friendly welcomes to Pakistan in the town of Wagah after crossing the Wagah border from Amritsar to Lahore.
Friendly welcomes in Pakistan literally just across the border from India in the town of Wagah.

When is the best time for travel in Pakistan?

Because Pakistan is such a diverse country with regions that range from sea-level right up to mountains with 8000-metre peaks, each season presents opportunities for the best time to travel to different regions. 

The beginning and end of summer, notably September and October, are our favourite times to visit.

We first arrived in Lahore to travel in Pakistan in June right in the peak of summer and it was HOT.  

Since then, we’ve visited Pakistan four more times and each time at a slightly different time of year.  Honestly, travel in Pakistan is a grand adventure no matter what time of year. 

Though I do have a bit of a bone to pick with the unexpected monsoon season (unexpected to us, that was) last August when visiting Taxila from Islamabad…

Summertime in Lahore on the River Ravi. 
Versus the monsoon season downpours in July in Taxila, Islamabad…

Fear of the ‘Stans

To be honest first thoughts of the word ‘-stan‘ scares many foreigners (and travellers too).  

History and the media presents a certain image that is relayed abroad and try as we may it is hard to ignore the snippets we hear.  But accordingly, for the seven countries in Asia that end with the suffix ‘Stan’ our first reaction is not instinctively smooth.  

Stan actually means land in Persian Farsi.  It is a word for ‘place of’ or ‘country’ a bit like the suffix of names in English such as England, Scotland or New Zealand.

This part of the world is a region of diverse geography and land with a lot of fascinating history behind it.  

Though I admit that even after years of travel in Asia (in all directions and ‘Stans too) we didn’t tell all our family and friends we were heading to Pakistan until we were actually there.  Why?  Simply because we didn’t want to be put off.  Unfortunately many peoples first reaction is enough to put doubt in any travellers determined mind.  

But don’t’ let yourself be put off either. 

Pakistan – like the other central Asian countries we’ve visited – is now a firm favourite country of ours.  

I’m updating this from Pakistan now on our fourth visit and we already can’t wait to come back…

Welcome to Pakistan and the incredible hospitality by the way.

Is a visa required for Pakistan? 

Most nationalities require a visa in advance for Pakistan.  However, it isn’t as tricky as it used to be to get a visa for Pakistan.  They have introduced an e-visa system and up to 176 nationalities can now apply for a Pakistani visa online.

To start this 7- or 10-day Pakistan itinerary from Amritsar in India you will also need to have a visa in advance for India too. 

A first glimpse of Pakistan in our taxi from the Wagah border after crossing on foot from India to Pakistan.

Language in Pakistan

Urdu is the national language of the Pakistan. It is a mixture of Persian, Arabic and various local languages. 

However, Pakistan in fact has two official languages: Urdu and English. 

People are extremely friendly and will try their best to help you in English.  But undoubtedly one of the things that pleases Pakistani’s most on meeting is if you can try a few words of Urdu to introduce yourself.

Here are a few useful greetings and phrases that will make your travel in Pakistan an even smoother experience…

Ye Kitne ka Hai?

Visiting the cities of Pakistan 

For our first trip to Pakistan (I phrase it like that because even at the time I knew we would return again) we wanted a taste of travel in Pakistan and chose an overland path from Amritsar in India to Lahore, Islamabad and Karachi. 

The cities were a great first introduction to travel in Pakistan and to the Pakistani culture and hospitality that had us smitten on even that first short trip. 

The incredible Shah Jahan Masjid in Thatta is one of the most beautiful mosques of South Asia. 

Lahore

Lahore is the capital of the Pakistani province of Punjab and is also Pakistan’s second largest city (after Karachi). 

Things to do in Lahore

Entering the old city of Lahore through Delhi Gate (it faces Delhi in now-India).
Young boys in traditional dress at the Tomb of Shah Jahangir across the Ravi River in Lahore.

Multan 

The historic city of Multan in Pakistan is known as the ‘City of Saints’ and is a prosperous city of bazaars, mosques and superbly designed tombs.

It is the oldest continuously inhabited city in South Asia; and third oldest in Asia.  

Things to do in Multan 

Friendly locals in the old city of Multan. 
The magnificent Tomb of Shah Rukn-e-Alam is the most iconic of things to do in Multan.

Islamabad

Islamabad is known as a clean, calm and green city by Pakistan standards and I would have to say that description is pretty apt.  It is a relaxing and easy city to explore.  

There are modern malls and services if that’s what you’re looking for.  And there are beautiful open green spaces and parks (even hiking trails) if that is what you’re after.  

Plus it’s easy to get around in Islamabad by taxi or Uber.  Rickshaws are banned in the capital city. 

Things to do in Islamabad

The Faisal Mosque can hold up to nearly 300,000 worshippers at one time.

Karachi 

Karachi is the capital city of the southern Pakistani province of Sindh.  It is the largest city in Pakistan and the 12th most populous city in the world with more than 22,000,000 inhabitants.   

Things to do in Karachi 

Trying Nihari at one of the oldest restaurants in Burns Road, Karachi.
Clifton Beach is a must-do in Karachi.

Food in Pakistan

We love the food in Pakistan (I had to start with that!). 

Pakistani cuisine is characterised by a great blend of regional cooking traditions from South, Central and East Asia. 

It’s rich and packed full of spice.  It is notoriously quite oily and cooked with a lot of ghee (clarified butter) which is nothing to complain about and just adds to the flavour.  

The cuisine has a range of traditional dishes which are all the kind of tastes worth writing home about.  But do be prepared for meat.  

Pakistani’s eat a lot of (Halal) meat.  Perhaps that is especially notable in contrast to neighbouring India where there are vegetarian options galore. 

Some of our favourite foods in Pakistan include: 

A huge pot of famously delicious Nihari.

Drinking water

Unfortunately it is not recommend to drink the tap water in Pakistan. It is not filtered and thus not safe for drinking. 

Bottled water is readily available or use a water purifier if you have one (and are confident with that).

Are there supermarkets and/or recognisable shops in Pakistan? 

Yes.  In the large cities – Islamabad, Lahore, Karachi – there are chain supermarkets and department stores along with many smaller convenience shops, stalls and kiosks. 

Some of the major supermarket chains include: 

Supermarket in Karachi, Pakistan.

What to wear for travel in Pakistan

Finding a balance between being comfortable (it gets hot) and respecting local traditions is important for travel in Pakistan. 

Pakistan is a country of diversity in terms of culture and climate and (unsurprisingly) locals dress accordingly.  Some of the provinces and cities are more conservative than others.  Peshawar and Multan are more traditional and especially the women’s dress is notably more conservative. 

In the cities there is more acceptance as far as what to wear as a traveller in Pakistan.  

But like other countries in South Asia it is greatly appreciated by locals to see travellers dressed in local clothes. (Seriously, people are thrilled). 

A shalwar kameez is the most common traditional combination dress worn by women and (slightly differently) men in Pakistan.   

Proudly dressed in my gifted and beautifully bright Shalwar Kameez with friends in Karachi.

Do women need to cover their hair for travel in Pakistan? 

No.  For general travel in Pakistan there is no requirement for women travellers to cover their hair except when visiting mosques and religious sites.  

Signs outside the mosques display instructions for women to adhere to proper Islamic dress in order to enter.  

This simply means that you must dress conservatively and cover your hair while visiting the mosque.  Note that your arms, legs and shoulders must also be covered.  You can use your dupatta (scarf) for this. 

Visiting the cities of Multan and Peshawar are notably more conservative than the other large cities in Pakistan.  In Peshawar it is expected (and a cultural norm) that women have their hair covered with a hijab or dupatta.  

Women in Shalwar Kameez with heavy dupatta in December in Lahore.

Transportation and getting around in Pakistan

We use a variety of transportation getting around for our travel in Pakistan. 

Pakistan has a great intercity bus network and a relatively extensive railway system connecting the cities in the mid and south of the country.  In the larger towns and cities taxis and auto rickshaws are easily available.  

Travel in Pakistan by taxi

Taxis are readily available in the cities and large towns.  Many Pakistani locals travel by car with a private driver which is a convenient way to get around for travel in Pakistan as a tourist in the cities too.  

There are companies that can offer a driver for around 5000 PKR (approx. $25 USD) and it is a handy way to explore (the driver will wait for you each time you get out).  

Even arriving as a tourist without anything pre-booked, as soon as you cross the Wagah Border to Lahore you should (hopefully) see a few taxis lined up waiting at the Pakistani side of the border. 

This was our first experience of using transport in Pakistan as we arrived over the border as pedestrians from Amritsar in India to Lahore in Pakistan. 

Be sure to negotiate and agree on a price before you hop in a taxi. 

Oh, and make sure they actually know where you are going! Some drivers do not have smart phones with a map so if you don’t have data this makes directions by taxi rather trickier!

On the road heading into the hills from Islamabad to Murree with our driver for the day.

Travel in Pakistan by auto rickshaw

This is a fun way to get around in the older cities (rickshaws are not allowed in Islamabad). 

It’s easy to flag down an auto rickshaw. 

Drivers are very friendly and it is ok to negotiate and agree on a price (be sure to agree before you hop in).

One style of rickshaw in Lahore.

Travel in Pakistan by bus

Intercity buses are a game-changer for travel in Pakistan.  The buses are rated and marketed as ‘luxury’ or ‘deluxe’ services and to be fair live pretty well up to that name.  

We booked a luxury bus with Road Masters between Lahore and Islamabad on our first trip and found it a smooth and pleasant way to travel in Pakistan.  Since then we have also made the journey by bus from Lahore to Islamabad with Faisal Movers and Daewoo too. 

A bus ticket costs around 1500 PKR per person for the 4.5 hour journey with AC, snacks and drinks included in the ticket price. (It honestly felt a bit like being on an aeroplane with a hostess serving snacks and a meal!). 

The luxurious inside of the Faisal Movers Business Class bus from Lahore to Islamabad.

Travel in Pakistan by train 

We took Pakistani Railways Green Line train from Islamabad to Karachi (18 hours overnight) and found it a smooth ride in an AC Business Class cabin. 

Dinner and breakfast are provided (albeit very basic) and there is chai, drinks and snacks available from vendors that come through the cabin regularly. 

Station views somewhere near Lahore en route to Karachi.

ATM’s and money for travel in Pakistan 

Ah ha. A serious (seriously serious) challenge for travellers to Pakistan with an international credit card! 

By some miracle the very first ATM we tried on our way from the Wagah border to Lahore worked instantly and I was able to withdraw Pakistani rupees first go… 

Fast forward to the next day when we fast realised we had only withdrawn the equivalent of $100 USD and it wasn’t going to be enough; and every single ATM we tried denied our international bank card! 

However, after some research (and mild panic we were going to be stranded in Pakistan without money) we discovered there are two ATM’s in Pakistan that accept international credit cards: 

Literally none of the other eight (plus) banks we tried worked for us.  

Head straight for Standard Chartered and remember HBL as a back-up if you need to. 

Budget for travel in Pakistan 

As an example here are some costs we found in Pakistan: 

Fresh Lassi with a taste that’s worth every Rupee.

Bargaining and tips

Outside of the large shopping malls, department stores and chain hotels, Pakistan is a largely cash economy and most things can be bargained for. 

Expect to pay a different price for entry fees and hotel rooms as a foreigner.  But it is always worth negotiating to see if you can get a better price in the markets and bazaars. 

Pakistani people are fair and pretty straight-up.

Connectivity and WIFI

Most hotels have free WIFI and 3G/4G connectivity is great in the cities and reasonable in between. 

We even had 3G pretty much all the way by train from Islamabad to Karachi.

Getting a SIM card for travel in Pakistan

We were forewarned about the challenge of getting a SIM card in Pakistan.  But in actual fact it was pretty straight forward…

We went with Ufone as found the Head Office was less than 100m from our hotel in Lahore. 

Their service was very friendly and they went out of their way to make sure we were all set up and ready to go with two SIM cards with enough data for the duration of our stay. 

You do need to register your full details to get a SIM card in Pakistan.  

Make sure to take:

It takes about 2-3 hours to activate the SIM.  The staff at Ufone even called to talk us through activating our SIM cards and 2 hours later we had prepaid working tourist SIM cards for Pakistan. 

But, there is a better option for connectivity…

Waiting patiently at the UFone head office in Lahore for our SIM card to be activated on our first trip.

Getting an eSIM for connectivity and travel in Pakistan

The reality is since our first visit to Pakistan (which was only two years ago), technology has improved even since then.  

Plus there is the added challenge that you can’t get a second SIM card in your same phone on a subsequent trip for travel in Pakistan.  The reasoning is something along the lines of requirements to actually import (and thus pay tax) on the mobile phone itself… 

What we recommend instead is getting an eSIM for travel in Pakistan. 

You can pre-purchase the eSIM and have it ready to activate as soon as you land or cross the border.  The hotels all have WIFI and the eSIM works fine on the Pakistan networks for connection during the days and when out and about. 

Accommodation options for travel in Pakistan

Pakistan has a diverse range of accommodation options from expensive international chain hotels in the big cities to smaller basic motels. 

We were lucky to find some great accommodation options in the northern cities of Pakistan but even luckier to stay with a local family in Karachi.

Where to stay in Lahore, Islamabad and Multan 

These are the hotels where we have stayed each time during our travel in Pakistan and can recommend for your trip. 

The spacious room at Grand Millennium Hotel on Davis Road in Lahore. 
A quad or family room at Shelton Ambassador in Islamabad. 
Our Executive Room with a large queen bed and single bed in Multan.

Read more about travel in Pakistan

More about planning for travel in Pakistan and beyond

These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel. 

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