I’m not going to lie. Arriving by plane from the comparatively mellow vibes of South India, Varanasi was an instant shock to all of the senses. We’d just arrived in Varanasi with kids in tow. Were we actually ready for this?!
Picture it like this. There are cows walking EVERYWHERE; piles of rubbish everywhere, and people EVERYWHERE. But even more so, there is a buzz of activity that just feels different to the South of the country – and it feels exciting.
This is India’s most holy city and one of the oldest living cities in the world(!). Varanasi is believed to be 4000+ years old and still functioning much in the way it would have with everyday life centred around the river.
There is no doubt that it’s a busy place to explore. (Family travel in India is a whole new level of adventure!). But is it worth visiting Varanasi with kids?
Fast forward to 2024 and we’ve since visited India five more times and Varanasi with kids twice more. That’s got to be a good sign right? Read on for everything you need to know to make the decision and plan a great visit to Varanasi with kids!
Visiting Varanasi with kids
It’s easy to get around Varanasi. The ancient city was designed to be walked on foot (and for donkeys and cows to make their way around too) and accessed by the focal centre of it’s holiness; the River Ganges.
And, contrary to usual destination lists crammed with activities and ‘sights’ to see, Varanasi is more about walking around and taking it all in. There is a LOT to take in!
In two days you can:
- Discover the ‘Ghats’
- Take a walking tour of old Varanasi
- Experience sunrise on the ghats
- See the evening Ganga Aarti ceremony
- Take a boat ride on the River Ganges
- Try chai at one of Varanasi’s many cool cafes
Thats kind of it! But don’t underestimate the size of the list and length of time allocated to wandering the back streets and ghats of Varanasi.
Trust me, we had first imagined it might be challenging keeping ourselves ‘entertained’ with such a short list of must-do’s and three nights in Varanasi. But we stayed an extra day and night and quite literally found ourselves happily lost in amongst the vibrance of Varanasi.
And being in Varanasi with the kids just put a different perspective on things!
- Read our ultimate 2-Day Varanasi itinerary here.
So first up. WHAT, is a Ghat?!
A ‘Ghat’ is the term used in the Indian subcontinent to describe a series of steps leading down to a body of water. Most often, this is a bathing or cremation place along the banks of a river.
Along the River Ganges in Varanasi there are more than 85 Ghats. As a kid-friendly explanation (and to understand it more), that is kind of like 85 different neighbourhoods all lining the sacred river.
The Ghats are used every day by locals for bathing in the river, washing clothes and laundry and performing their daily prayer rituals. People collect holy water from the river, and use boats to make their way up and down the edge of the Old City.
- Tip: Note that if you are visiting Varanasi with kids it is worth being aware before you start wandering that there are also two ‘Burning Ghats’.
The burning Ghats are areas of riverfront steps designated for spiritual public cremations of Hindu. The bodies are cremated and the ashes held for nine days until they are released into the River Ganga.
This is the ultimate sacrifice, cleansing them of sin and freeing them from the cycle of rebirth.
It’s a powerful place to experience.
Take a walking tour in Varanasi with kids
I admit I was skeptical about taking a guided tour with the kids anywhere in India.
On arrival in Varanasi you will be offered so many tours at a “very good price” that you will be lost for choice of guide. It can be overwhelming. And in our case, we were in Varanasi with kids…
Would they actually handle a walking tour? And would it be suitable for them?
Do you recommend a guide for Varanasi?
I definitely recommend getting a good guide for Varanasi.
We found Ravi Gaur, a local guide online and really enjoyed our time with Ravi. We all learnt, saw and tasted so much more of the holy city than we would ever have found on our own.
And I needn’t have worried! A tour in Varanasi was the best thing we did. Our guesthouse was located at one end of the ghats (in Assi Ghat) which turned out to be a perfect starting point. We walked all the way right along the riverfront and ghats on tour with Ravi.
The tour was for half a day at first. We spent the morning exploring all of the back alley ways and learning about life in such a Sacred City. We would never have understood half as much as we did without talking with someone.
There is a lot to take in visually. And do be prepared if visiting Varanasi with kids, to explain the Burning Ghats to the kids (and your inner-self!). Note this before you turn the corner and there they suddenly are!.
Hearing the stories to match the sights, sounds and smells made it all come together for us.
Fast forward to now (2024), after our third time in Varanasi with kids and each time we return we do a tour with Ravi on our first day in Varanasi.
We highly recommend Ravi Gaur. He is a registered guide and a born and raised local in Varanasi with an incredible passion for his city and culture.
- Ravi Gaur
+91 85769 16590
Give Ravi a message on WhatsApp with your proposed dates for Varanasi and he can arrange a pick-up from the airport or train station.
Experience sunrise and sunset on the Ghats
Sunrise in Varanasi is somewhat the best of both worlds.
It’s a peaceful time, before the full-on buzz that is Varanasi in all her glory, but it also denotes a different kind of busy.
Locals go about their own daily routines and rituals along the river edge.
The Sacred City is holy for Hindus and pilgrims who come to Ganges river to dip in it with the belief that this act will wash away a lifetime of sins. But on an average morning, its a frenzy with local devotees going about more peaceful rituals amidst the routines of others.
As far as people watching goes; this has got to be one of the most eye-opening and interesting places to be. Gavin got up on the first morning at sunrise to explore by himself and was so inspired he got us all up the next day so as not to miss out!
Come the evening at sunset you have a choice of best places to be. Whether out on a boat floating gently down the river; eating an early dinner atop one of the rooftop restaurants or just strolling the ghats in the formidable golden light.
We managed to squeeze in all three of those sunset highlights, and were close enough after dark to watch the Evening Aarti at Assi Ghat from nearby our hotel.
Don’t miss these special times of day, even if you do have a short stay in Varanasi.
Take a boat ride on the River Ganges
This is one of those moments in travel that leaves you a bit lost for words. I don’t think we had quite realised the significance of the city of Varanasi before arriving. Certainly we had not yet understood that the history can be traced back 4000 years…
From the water it’s easier to visualise. You can essentially watch life taking place along the ghats exactly as it has done for generations.
It’s easy to get a boat ride. Just head down to the ghats and you will be asked by every boat man you pass. Or book a boat ride with a guide – like Ravi – who can explain what you are actually seeing from the water.
It’s beautiful at sunrise, and peaceful. But if you aren’t up for the early start or, if you are already out on a walking tour and have a great tour guide; you can ask them to come with you by boat as well.
There is so much going on that it is a lot to take in and it certainly gives a different perspective from the water.
The river flows a lot faster than we realised. We literally just floated down the river from one end of the city to the other. You can hear all the different groups of conversations and happenings along the stairs of each ghat!
Try chai in Varanasi with kids
We took this ‘sight’ of Varanasi as a bit of a personal challenge and spent hours of each day wandering the alley ways in search of chai.
I love hearing the call of Chai Wallah’s selling tea from tiny stalls and nooks underneath houses that looked surely too small to be a cafe!
Varanasi became a popular destination for travellers and hippies in the 1960’s and I don’t think much has changed as far as the pull for hipster travellers (as opposed to tourists). Perhaps credit to them is due for the slow pace of cafe culture?
Wandering the alleys you will see the same travellers sitting for hours drinking chai. And then again, sitting in the same spot the next day.
Well, we almost became those travellers. The only difference perhaps, that our travelling companions don’t sit for quite as long!
We drank a lot of chai and found our favourites amongst the many at Ashish Cafe and Mona Lisa Cafe. There we could sit outside on the top steps of Ganga Mahal Ghat and watch the world go by…
Where to stay in Varanasi with kids
We stayed on Assi Ghat in Varanasi. And location-wise, this was a great choice for our stay.
- Assi Ghat, Varanasi: Hotel Temple on Ganges
Assi Ghat is the southernmost ghat along the River Ganges, and is the best place to stay if you want to be close to the morning and evening Aartis. The hotel itself is basic, but felt safe and easy for us in Varanasi with the kids.
If you are looking for luxury then there are other options. (It definitely isn’t classed as luxury).
But I chose this based on a similar recommendation from another family. It was easy to get to with a pick-up service from the airport; close to the ghats; and has a rooftop restaurant that made evenings easy.
Final thoughts on visiting Varanasi with kids?
And there you have it! Varanasi with kids is most definitely do-able, enjoyable and one heck of a learning experience for all.
If you only have two days, don’t panic – just book it. And if you felt worried before about venturing out in Varanasi with kids, I hope to have convinced you otherwise.
The memories you will take away from Varanasi are from a city like no other.
*Plus, navigating the narrow alleyways of Varanasi with the excited eyes of a four year old certainly makes for a totally different perspective on all aspects of life!
Other places to stay and recommended accommodation in India
These are some of the accommodation in India where we have stayed (over the last four visits to India with kids!).
- Jaisalmer: The Wanderlust Guesthouse
AMAZING guest-house! We loved staying here and can highly recommend. Great rooms; rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort; awesome camel safaris!
- New Delhi: Hotel Hari Piorko
Good location in the heart of the Main Bazaar, Delhi. Close to restaurants and train station. No view from rooms.
- Kolkata: Hotel Golden Palace
Close to New Market with very friendly service and a great in-house room service restaurant.
- Jodhpur: Raj Mandir Boutique Homestay
Good location in Blue City, spacious room with small balcony inside Haveli style home. Tiny little doors, lots of unique decor and artefacts.
- Jaipur: Jaipur Haveli
Incredible old haveli home in heart of Jaipur. Highly recommend; beautiful rooms; great attention to detail and very friendly staff and owners.
- Agra: Aman Homestay
Very friendly family-run homestay with rooftop views of The Taj Mahal. Great rickshaw driver service and home cooked meals.
- Delhi: Smyle Inn
Extremely basic hotel in small back alley. Very friendly, helpful staff and simple breakfast included. Just off Main Bazaar.
What else can we say about India?
We LOVE India and can only highly, highly recommend you embrace the chaos; embrace India; and get ready for what can truly only be described as the adventure of a lifetime…
More about travel planning for India and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home).