All You Need to Know About Visiting the Hill of Crosses, Lithuania.

Sarah Steiner

2 months ago

One of the highlights of our trip to Lithuania and the Baltic States was the impressive Hill of Crosses (Kryžių Kalnas), near Siauliai. We’d seen pictures of the site and understood it to be a centre of religious pilgrimage. But I am the first to admit we didn’t half realise the symbolism and importance of the site for Lithuanian heritage.

The site is a centre of religious pilgrimage and while naturally it started for religious purposes, it stands now as much for liberty as it does for Catholicism.

But it is not a cemetery, nor is it officially sanctioned by the Catholic Church. Instead, it is a visceral, organic monument to faith, resistance, and national identity.

Visiting is a totally unique experience. So whether you are traveling from Vilnius, the Baltic neighbours, or from further afield (we had recently visited Belarus). Here is your essential guide to navigating the logistics by car or motorhome, understanding the history, and absorbing the unique atmosphere of the Hill of Crosses in Lithuania.

Part I: The History of The Hill of Crosses

First things, first. Before planning your trip, it is vital to understand why the crosses are there. This transforms the site from a curious spectacle into a more meaningful historical document. (Not just something for the ‘Gram!).

I admit, I had to do quite a bit of research to find out exactly what this now-famous Hill of Crosses was originally so famous for.

So why are there so many crosses on the hill?

Wondering how to visit the Hill of Crosses in Lithuania? — So why are there so many crosses on the hill?

The Origins of the Tradition

The exact origin of the cross-planting tradition is lost to time. But supposedly the first crosses appeared in the mid-19^th century, likely following the 1831 and 1863 peasant uprisings against Tsarist Russia.

At this time, it is told that family members, unable to locate the bodies of fallen rebels, began placing crosses on the hill as symbolic graves.

That’s a lot of crosses (and that is only the first pathway on the hill).

The Symbol of Resistance

Later the Hill of Crosses became a symbol of national and spiritual resistance during the Soviet occupation (1944–1990).

The Soviets tried to repress both religion and freedom so they tried, repeatedly, to tear down the crosses. They tried time and time again, until they began bringing bulldozers in. But each time they’d tear a section down, they’d return and even more crosses would be placed than before.

Destruction: Soviet bulldozers levelled the hill at least three times—in 1961, 1973, and 1975. They carted away crosses, guarded the area, and tried to flood the site.
Rebuilding: But every time the Soviets destroyed the crosses, the local people returned to replace them. This cycle of destruction and reconstruction cemented the hill’s status as a peaceful, yet powerful, testament of the Lithuanian people.

So what was once a symbol of resistance and national pride, the Hill of Crosses is now home to over 100,000 crosses—a testament to the generations of Lithuanians who risked everything to keep their spirit alive.

A Papal Visit to The Hill of Crosses

More recently, the Hill of Crosses gained further international recognition in 1993 when Pope John Paul II visited and gave a Mass, proclaiming the site a place of hope, peace, and sacrifice.

His visit inspired millions worldwide and led to an exponential increase in the number of crosses, making the hill the worldwide phenomenon it is today.

You can almost imagine the impact of a Papal visit to the Hill of Crosses.

Part II: Hill of Crosses – How To Get There

The Hill of Crosses is located about 12 kilometres north of the city of Šiauliai (pronounced Show-lay), which is the fourth-largest city in Lithuania. But since the site is rural, getting there requires a bit of planning.

1. From Vilnius or Kaunas to the Hill of Crosses

If you are coming from the main tourist hubs, be prepared for a long day trip.

By Train: This is the most comfortable option. Take the direct train from Vilnius to Šiauliai. The journey takes about 2.5 to 3 hours. From the Šiauliai train station, follow the local transport instructions below.
By Bus: Buses are frequent, often slightly cheaper, and take a similar amount of time. Look for express buses heading to Šiauliai.
Rental Car or Motorhome: If you have your own wheels, driving is absolutely the simplest option. The site is clearly marked, and there is ample, inexpensive parking on-site.

It is a pensive – and solemn – place to visit in Lithuania.

2. From Šiauliai to the Hill of Crosses

Once you are in Šiauliai, you have three primary ways to cover the final 12km:

Local Bus (The Budget Option): Take the local bus (often Bus No. 101, but confirm the schedule locally) that runs from the main bus station (Šiaulių autobusų stotis) toward Joniškis. Ask the driver to stop at “Domantai” or “Kryžių Kalnas.” From the bus stop, it’s a roughly 2km walk along a well-marked road to the hill.
Taxi/Ride-Share (The Quick Option): A taxi or a ride-share service (like Bolt) from the Šiauliai city centre to the Hill of Crosses is relatively inexpensive and the fastest option (aside from driving yourself), taking about 15 minutes. You will need to arrange for the taxi to wait for you or use a local driver who agrees to a round-trip fare, as ride-share availability can be spotty for the return trip.
Rental Car or Motorhome: Driving is the simplest option. The site is clearly marked, and there is ample, inexpensive parking on-site with space for motorhomes.

Part III: Visiting the Site – What to Expect

It is an undeniably haunting (eerie?) site to visit. But strolling through the area, you can really get a feeling for the pride, resilience and sacrifice of the Lithuanian people throughout the dark eras of Nazi and Soviet occupation. The space serves as a powerful tribute to that.

The Experience

As you approach the hill, the sight is pretty darn staggering. The crosses cover nearly every available surface, overlapping and intertwining. They range from massive, intricately carved wooden crucifixes to tiny, simple wooden crosses left by children, and even (tacky) plastic crosses brought by tourists.

The Sound: With a bit of breeze you can hear the collective rustling of tens of thousands of rosaries chiming every so faintly.
The Atmosphere: Despite the crowds during peak summer months, the hill maintains an overwhelming sense of solemnity and peace. Albeit it is a place for reflection, not rushing.
The Facilities: The site is well-maintained. There is a small visitor centre, public restrooms, and a small shop where you can purchase crosses to add to the hill.

We visited in June and it wasn’t particularly busy or touristy when we arrived mid-morning.

What to Bring (Beyond the Usual)

A Cross or Rosary: This is the tradition. You are strongly encouraged to bring your own cross to place on the hill. It doesn’t need to be fancy; a simple wooden cross or a rosary is perfect. But by adding your cross, you become part of the ongoing history of the site.
Sturdy Shoes: While the main pathways are stable, the hill itself is uneven, muddy, and covered in loose crosses and artifacts.
Wind/Rain Gear: Northern Lithuania’s weather is unpredictable. (Haha! Pretty much Europe in a nutshell!). Dress in layers as always in Europe and be prepared for winds and/or sudden rain showers…
Small Change: The on-site parking is free though from memory the public restrooms require a small fee.

Etiquette and Respect

Although the Hill of Crosses is a massive tourist draw, it remains fundamentally a sacred place.

Silence: It is a religious site so speak softly, especially near the main pathways (and pilgrims, obvs).
Photos: Photography is permitted. But be respectful of pilgrims who are praying or meditating. (Not everyone is a tourist for site seeing!).
Leave No Trace: Only leave religious items (crosses, rosaries, statues). Do not leave rubbish (obviously) or non-religious trinkets.

There are plenty of religious trinkets for sale at the small shop by the entrance.

Part IV: Where to Stay and Where to Eat

Since most travellers visit the hill as a day trip, they typically base themselves in Vilnius, Kaunas or Riga. However, staying in Šiauliai offers a closer, more relaxed base.

Accommodation in Kaunas

Kaunas City Center (Centras) is the heart of Kaunas, perfect for first-timers, close to Old Town (Senamiestis), Laisvės Alėja (Freedom Avenue), cafes, and historical sites.

Hotels:

Moxy Kaunas Center: Modern, central, great location near Old Town.
Ibis Kaunas Centre: Conveniently located with good reviews for location and staff.
Radisson Hotel Kaunas: A well-known option with airport shuttle services.
Hotel Metropolis: Historic building with great breakfast and location.

Apartments & Budget:

Look for highly-rated options like STAY Kaunas, KR Apartment Kaunas, or various loft-style apartments for value and comfort.
Kefir & Bun Hostel is a good budget choice in the centre.

Accommodation in Vilnius

Vilnius Old Town (Senamiestis) is the heart of history, cobblestone streets, churches, and cafes. This is a recommended district great for first-timers wanting to be near sights.

Boutique: Artagonist, Grotthuss Hotel, Shakespeare Boutique Hotel.
Hotels: Grand Hotel Vilnius (Curio Collection), Hotel Pacai, Ibis.

Or the Naujamiestis (New Town/City Center) area is a modern business district, with shopping, and transport links.

Hotels: Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva, Courtyard by Marriott Vilnius City Center, Novotel Vilnius Centre.

Accommodation in Šiauliai

Šiauliai offers solid, budget-friendly accommodation, but don’t expect the boutique options found in Vilnius. There are a couple of options for hotel. Otherwise look for a ‘Turned House’ (a smaller guesthouse called apgyvendinima).

Šiauliai City Hotel: Reliable, comfortable, and centrally located near the transport links you’ll need.
Suncity Hotel & Spa: Centrally located, basic hotel.
Turned-House: Look for smaller guesthouses (apgyvendinimas) for a more local, homey feel.

We had daytime parking for our motorhome at the Hill of Crosses.

What To Eat in Lithuania

We always look for new foods to try wherever we travel, and Lithuania was no exception. There is plenty of great food outlets, cafes and restaurants in the cities. Otherwise Šiauliai is a neat place to try local, traditional Lithuanian cuisine.

Cepelinai: The national dish—large potato dumplings filled with minced meat or cheese, served with sour cream and bacon bits.
Šaltibarščiai: A vibrant, cold soup of kefir/buttermilk, beetroot, cucumber, dill, and hard-boiled eggs, perfect in summer.
Balandėliai: Cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice.
Kugelis: A baked potato pudding or pie.
Koldūnai: Meat-filled dumplings, similar to pierogi, often served in broth.
Alus (Beer): Enjoy local Lithuanian brews. Or have you tried Kvass?

In Šiauliai, try one of these local food outlets:

Etno Dvaras: A reliable chain that serves authentic Lithuanian staples in a traditional setting. Try Cepelinai(potato dumplings stuffed with meat) or Šaltibarščiai (cold beetroot soup—perfect in summer).
Talutti Bakes and Cakes: For a more contemporary meal or coffee, this spot is popular with locals.

Final Thoughts on The Hill of Crosses?

The Hill of Crosses is not a site built on grand, formal architecture. It doesn’t have the famous structure of much of European history in the cities. (There are plenty of those, right?). But it has a totally unique story and history of ordinary peoples devotion and it is a stark, moving reminder that faith and national identity can withstand even the most brutal attempts at suppression.

So whatever you do, if you come to Lithuania, make sure you make it here.

Arriving to Amsterdam to buy your motorhome? Check Ibis Schiphol, Hyatt Place Amsterdam Airport and Radisson Blu Hotel Schiphol to start your trip.