Away With The Steiners

How to see the unusual Amritsar Border Ceremony between India and Pakistan. 

Have you heard about the daily Amritsar border ceremony? It is unquestionably one of the most unique borders in the world.  

Every evening at sunset, both country’s militaries go to great lengths to outdo each other with parades and pompous in a ceremony at the nightly closing of the border.  And unsurprisingly, as a visitor, experiencing the Wagah Border Ceremony is one of the most unusual but popular things to do in Amritsar.  

The atmosphere is oddly carnivalesque.  There is a huge grandstand on both sides of the border where in the middle the soldiers of the Indian and Pakistani military march towards each other, kicking their legs as high as they can in intimidation before finally shaking hands and lowering each country’s flag.  

It really is an incredibly energetic and one-of-a-kind experience in India. 

Here are all the details about the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar including ceremony timings and all you need to know to be prepared! 

History of the Wagah Border at Amritsar and Lahore

Prior to partition in 1947, the two countries of India and Pakistan were under the rule of the British.  

But the history of the Wagah Border dates back to when British rulers left the Indian subcontinent in 1947.  The border came into existence as the country was divided into Muslim-majority Pakistan and Hindu-majority India.  

Relations between the two countries have been tense throughout history.  But the Wagah Border ceremony and lowering of the border flags each evening at the Attari-Wagah Border has been a daily military practice and closing of the international border since 1959. 

How to watch the Wagah border ceremony from Amritsar India.
The Attari-Wagah border is the only crossing-point open to travel by land between India and Pakistan.

The Wagah Border ceremony in Amritsar – what is it all about? 

The governments of both nations started the Wagah Border Ceremony, also known as the Beating Retreat Ceremony, in 1959.  It was started as a ceremonial gesture of goodwill, acknowledging the rivalry between the two nations, as well as their brotherhood.

However, it’s slightly tricky to detail the official description of the Wagah Border Ceremony.  Every day the ceremony starts with a blustering standoff parade by the soldiers from both sides, and ends up in the perfectly coordinated lowering of the two nations’ flags. 

The parade on each side is better described like a competition of pompous.  Each side marches towards the border line with the soldiers vying to see who can lift and kick their foot the highest and stomp their foot the hardest to the ground. 

The passion of the soldiers on both sides fulfilling their duty of this unusual ceremony is indisputably impressing.  

There is shouting, singing, kicking, foot-thumping and stomping, drumming, dancing, and everything about trying to outdo the other side. 

Then, after the grand performance (and very LOUD music), the large iron gates that separate the two countries are opened.  And two soldiers from each country lower the flags simultaneously. 

The ceremony ends with a polite handshake between the soldiers before they retreat and the gates are slammed closed for the night. 

The moment the soldiers from each side are poised to lower the flag for the end of the ceremony.

How to visit the Wagah Border ceremony from Amritsar

In Amritsar, the Wagah Border Ceremony is performed every evening.  

The ceremony is arranged like a formal event between India and Pakistan. But you don’t need a booking. 

Seats are available on a first-come, first-serve basis and there is a specific area in the grandstand for foreigners that is very close to the borderline gates. 

Entering the empty stadium early to get a good seat for the ceremony.

How much does it cost? Do you need tickets for the Amritsar Border Ceremony?

The border ceremony is a free event.  You do not need tickets.  

There is no fare or fee for attending the Wagah Border ceremony for tourists as there is no ticket required.  

Seats are not pre-allocated.  There is space for 25,000 visitors watching the Amritsar border ceremony side and it’s all on a first come first served basis.  

Welcome to the Wagah Border Ceremony, Amritsar by the way.

Wagah Border Ceremony Timings. What time does the Amritsar border ceremony start?

Between the hours of 10:00am and 4:00pm the Attari-Wagah border functions as an operating border crossing between India and Pakistan.  From 4:00pm on the Indian side, border crossings close and the stadium is prepared for the ceremony.  

However, from both sides the question of timings for the Wagah Border ceremony is generalised.  Don’t expect it to start on the dot.  It more officially starts at 4:30pm and 5:30pm but there is a lot of hype and music (LOUD) and shouting and support before it officially starts.  

So, it is recommended to arrive at the Amritsar border ceremony 30 minutes early.  And trust me there is a lot of hype and energy and lots going on before the ceremony starts.  There is no risk of arriving too early and being bored!

There is a security check to enter the stadium that takes time and can have queues.  So do arrive early. 

Arriving early and stocking up with snacks and drinks before the ceremony.
A peaceful moment before the crowds arrive for the start of the Amritsar border ceremony.

How long does the Wagah Border Ceremony in Amritsar last? 

We left from our hotel at 4pm and were back by 8:00pm in July, during the summer in Amritsar.  

The actual ceremony is less than 45 minutes but there is singing and performance before the show.  

There is an allocated section for foreigners right near to the border line and main gates of the ceremony.
Views from near the border looking back at the fast-filling Indian stadium.

Where is the Amritsar Wagah Border ceremony location? 

The Wagah Border ceremony takes place every evening on the border post between Attari, India and Wagah, Pakistan.   The village of Attari ends just 3km from the border crossing post and is situated on the Grand Trunk Road that became the demarcation line between India and Pakistan.

Friendly smiles on the road to Amritsar.

How to get to the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar

It is recommended to arrive at the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar about 30 minutes before the ceremony begins.  And it takes about 45 minutes from Amritsar to the border ceremony stadium.  

Most tours or drivers will arrange to leave your hotel in Amritsar around 4:00pm in summer and earlier, at 3:00pm in the winter months. 

If you have a driver while you are in Punjab, that makes it easy to get to the Amritsar border ceremony.  Otherwise, you can ask your hotel to arrange a driver to take you to the border and wait for you during the ceremony and drive you back. 

The distance from Amritsar to the Border Ceremony on the India side is just over 30km.  However, at that time of day (or any time of day in Amritsar) it can be heavy with traffic.  

What to bring – and what not to bring to the Amritsar Wagah Border Ceremony 

You really don’t need to bring much to the ceremony except a great energy!

You will have to go through a screening security check before entering the stadium. 

And it’s a good idea to bring a hat and or sunscreen as you will be sitting in the direct sunlight and especially in summer it is hot. Like hot, HOT. 

We took one small, kids personal backpack.  Although we had read that they do not let you take a bag inside we genuinely didn’t have any bag smaller (and we wanted to take the camera!).  However, it isn’t recommend to bring a bag in case you are not allowed to enter with it. 

There is a scanner and a pat down upon entering.  And if you do have a purse or camera bag they will check inside the bag.  

Soldiers from the India Border Security Force escorting a VIP after the border ceremony.
A chance to get some photos after the ceremony of the soldiers and border line – if you are quick.

Snacks, drinks, face painting and flags – and fans!

You definitely need to get into the spirit of things! On arrival, there are several small stalls offering face painting and selling ribbons and hats and Indian trinkets and souvenirs by the entry to the Amritsar border ceremony.  

Although there doesn’t seem to be a fixed price for the face painting (nor at either time we have been to the Pakistan side of the Wagah Border Ceremony!), the flags and hats are only a few rupees. 

There are several small cars and kiosks as you enter towards the security check.  These sell large bottles of water, cold drinks, snacks, popcorn, and chai. 

Inside the stadium vendors will come around to the grandstand and seating area selling popcorn, cold drinks, water, and snacks. 

And if you haven’t already got one, they sell India hand fans to attempt to beat the heat!). 

India hat? Flag? Hand-fan?

After the Wagah Border ceremony

What a show!  It is a buzzing atmosphere and very busy after the ceremony. (And seriously hot and sweaty when we went in July). But what a show! 

It is a humbling experience to witness this border ceremony as a foreigner and a reminder of how fortunate we are to be able to cross this border while many from each of these two countries cannot. 

There is time afterwards to see the soldiers and get a quick photo.  But do be quick as there is a massive rush and it is then time to escort everyone away from the border. 

We hope you enjoyed the Wagah Amritsar border ceremony!

The rather sweaty-but-buzzing crowd after the Amritsar border ceremony.
Be sure to arrange a meeting point with your driver for leaving the stadium with the 15,000+ crowd.

Planning on crossing the Attari-Wagah Border from India to Pakistan?

There are lots of perceptions about whether or not the border is in fact open to cross from India to Pakistan. But we’ve crossed the border here at Attari-Wagah four times and in both directions!

Accommodation / Where to stay in Amritsar, India

There are some great places to stay in Amritsar.  Here are the hotels we use regularly on our travels in India and that we can recommend for your trip. 

Our room at the Hyatt Regency, Amritsar.

Accommodation / Where to stay in Lahore, Pakistan 

If you are crossing the border from India to Lahore, Pakistan these are the hotels where we stay regularly in Lahore and can recommend for your visit. 

Our rather plush room at Grand Millennium Hotel in Lahore. 

More about travel planning for India, Pakistan and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

Read more from travel in South Asia

Exit mobile version