Because India so incredibly diverse, each region has its different cuisines and specialities. The food in Jaisalmer is influenced by the history, culture and natural environment of the surrounding desert region. And this makes for a truly unique experience of food again in India.
The Golden City might be known for its safaris and majestic fort, but there are tastes aplenty too. There are famous sweets and not-to-be-missed curries, and beans and berries native only to Jaisalmer. There are surprising fruits, well-known hot beverages, and a type of bread that just really makes sense in the desert.
The food in Jaisalmer captures the resourcefulness of the people who call the desert their home. Welcome to Jaisalmer.
Here is our guide to the unique and noteworthy food in Jaisalmer to try on your visit.
- Food in Jaisalmer
– Ghotua Ladoo
– Ker Sangri
– Gatte ki Sabji
– Pyaz Ki Kachori
– Dal Pakwan
– Dal Bati
– Churma
– Lal Maas
– Kulfi
– Dates
– Kinnows, Lime, Pomegranate and Mangoes - Where to eat / Restaurants and cafes in Jaisalmer
- Getting to Jaisalmer
- Where to stay in Jaisalmer
1. Ghotua Ladoo – Sweet – Food in Jaisalmer
Ghotua is an Indian sweet that originates from Jaisalmer. It is a soft, dessert type sweet made with Gram flour (chickpea flour) and pounded by hand with pure Ghee (clarified butter), cardamon and saffron.
The most famous place to try Ghotua is at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets. This place in Bhatia Market has been churning out traditional Jaisalmeri sweets for 12 generations. You can’t miss it on the corner heading up from Gandhi Chowk towards the Fort and it won’t be mistaken for the queue outside or the bright yellow winds of sweet Jalebi stacked up above the cauldrons of sugar syrup.
If you haven’t yet tried Ghotua – the most famous sweet food in Jaisalmer – this is the place to do it.
Owner Vinay Bhativa will proudly show you the handmade Ghotua and photos of his forefathers that made the delicious sweets before him. Ghotua is one food in Jaisalmer not to miss!
- Tip: It costs 250 INR for a small box of Ghotua presented in a gift box or you can buy one to try.
2. Ker Sangri – Curry – Food in Jaisalmer
Ker Sangri is a vegetable dish made from desert beans and a berry that are local only to the desert region of Jaisalmer.
The Ker is a shrub berry that grows in the Thar Desert. And Sangri is a type of bean that is harvested from a prickly, flowering tree called Khejari.
Historically, Ker and Sangri were an important source of nutrition in the desert during times of famine or drought when little else was available in the rural areas of the region.
And still today it is popular food in Jaisalmer and proudly promoted as a local dish to try.
- Where to find it? As a visitor you will spot Ker Sangri listed on the menus in town. We enjoyed trying it at Wanderlust Guesthouse with views of the fort to accompany another unique taste of food in Jaisalmer!
3. Masala Chai
Masala Chai – a sweetened and spiced, milk tea – is the most consumed beverage in India and one that every visitor must try. It is made by brewing black tea with spices, sugar and milk.
Although, like many travellers, we don’t drink tea with sugar, there is something so comforting and delicious about Indian Masala Chai.
In Jaisalmer, the best place to try a local Masala Chai is in the huge chowk (square) known by locals (and visitors like us) as ‘Chai Chowk’ because of the number of chai stands and small chai cafes surrounding the edge of the square.
Each morning these chai shops open at sunrise and the steady stream of punters starts from the early morning. The small plastic stools and bench seats fill continuously with men as chai is savoured over quick conversations.
Over our many visits to Jaisalmer, Gavin joins the morning crowds daily in our stays and even reckons it might be worthy of the ‘best chai in India’ award of any that we have tried.
- Where to find it? Find the ever-busy Prabhu Tea Stall in Chai Chowk and enjoy a cup of truly traditional Indian chai for just 10 INR (0.12 USD).
4. Gatte Ki Sabji – Curry
Gatte ki Sabji is a delicious vegetarian curry made with Besan (gram flour / chickpea flour) dumplings. It is another food in Jaisalmer that is particular to the desert region where fresh vegetables and ingredient options can be limited, especially in times of drought.
In Gatte curry, the main ingredient are the dumplings made from a flour dough and served with a spicy, yogurt-based gravy.
It is a unique food in Jaisalmer to try and a humbling reminder of the resourcefulness of the people in the desert regions of India.
- Where to find it? We tried Gatte curry at Wanderlust Guesthouse in Jaisalmer.
5. Pyaz Ki Kachori – Snack
Kachori is a deep-fried, spicy, stuffed pastry originating from the Rajasthan region of India. It is a popular snack food in Jaisalmer and another fast-food type of dish commonly enjoyed for breakfast in northern India.
In Jaisalmer, most Kachori is vegetarian and stuffed with spicy pulses and onions. We thought at first it might be Samosa. But where Samosa is made with a hard dough, Kachori will have a soft, outer layer of hand-patted flaky fried pastry.
- Where to find it? There is a row of Kachori breakfast stalls and sweet shops on the corner of Ghandi Chowk and Maharana Pratap Maidan next to the SBI Bank ATM.
6. Jalebi – Sweet – Food in Jaisalmer
Jalebi is a popular dessert and snack sweet in South Asia. It is a crispy, pretzel-like and syrupy sweet that is easily recognisable by its usual bright orange or yellow colour.
The sweets are made by frying batter into crispy swirls, then will be dipped in a sugary syrup made with cardamom and saffron. A bit like a syrupy, spiral of sweet donut!
Jalebi was brought to India by Persians, and so it is a particularly popular food in Jaisalmer due to the geographical location right on the far west of Rajasthan.
There are numerous shops in the market with brightly coloured orange and yellow Jalebi out front, but for the freshest, stop at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets on your way to the fort.
- Where to find it? You can’t miss Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets on the corner heading up from Gandhi Chowk towards the Fort. Plus, it won’t be mistaken for the queue outside and the bright yellow winds of sweet Jalebi stacked up above the cauldrons of sugar syrup.
7. Dal Pakwan – Snack – Food in Jaisalmer
Dal Pakwan is another food in Jaisalmer that we haven’t otherwise seen yet in India. It is typically a breakfast or morning snack from the Sindh region of South Asia, and consists of a lentil dish which is scooped up with a thin, crisp fried bread called a Pakwan.
The Pakwan is a deep-fried and crisp unpuffed type of Puri (fried bread) flavoured with salt and pepper. It comes served with a side of Chana or Dal. But we usually just get the Pakwan topped with coriander or tamarind chutney and/or chopped onion. It’s seriously good!
- Where to find it? Try the small Dal Pakwan cart at the entrance to the market on Geeta Ashram Road.
8. Dal Bati – Bread – Food in Jaisalmer
Dal Bati is another popular Rajasthani delicacy. It is a combination meal with Dal, a soupy lentil dish that you will find all over India and South Asia. But the accompanying bread called Bati is an unusual hard, bread roll that is commonly cooked over charcoals.
As far as food to try in Jaisalmer, Bati is the star of this show. It is unlike other Indian breads which are famously flat. Bati is served in a rock-like ball as a bread roll. And oddly, it is hard enough to tear apart and dip in the Dal or add it to a curry to soak in the flavour.
It is an easy bread to cook on charcoal without even need for a hot-plate, deeming it both a unique Indian bread and a region-specific food in Jaisalmer and the desert regions of Rajasthan.
- Where to find it? The best chance to try Dal Bati is on your overnight camel safari in Jaisalmer.
9. Churma / Dal Bati Churma – Food in Jaisalmer
Churma is another popular-but-unusual Rajasthani food in Jaisalmer, usually served along with Dal Bati as Dal Bati Churma.
It is made from coarsely ground wheat (bread), crushed then cooked with Ghee (clarified butter) and sugar. The texture is a crumbly powder like a sweetened breadcrumb or cereal.
And it is the slightly odd texture and taste that is tricky to get used to as a visitor. That, and the fact it’s usually served before the meal or accompanying savoury Dal and Bati like a sweet accompaniment.
- Where to find it? Dal Bati Churma is usually made on special occasions, festivals and weddings in Rajasthan. And, despite the odd sweet-before-savoury concept it is another food in Jaisalmer worth tasting if you have the opportunity.
10. Dates – Food in Jaisalmer
The food in Jaisalmer is influenced hugely by the desert environment. In the right season, dates are everywhere at the market.
I admit, it was at first unusual to see the brightly yellow-coloured dates for sale all fresh like that, as opposed to piles of dried dates more common in the Middle East. But dates are often served as a fresh food in Jaisalmer or incorporated into traditional Rajasthani desserts.
- Where to find it? Dates are harvested fresh in June and July in Jaisalmer.
11. Kulfi or ice block – Food in Jaisalmer
This might seem like an obvious choice for the list, but if you are visiting Jaisalmer at any time of year it can get hot, hot. And cooling down with a Kulfi or ice block just makes sense.
Kulfi is a type of traditional Indian dessert. It differs from ice cream in that it is made with dairy and un-churned, so it has a more solid finish when frozen. And it is delicious.
If you haven’t yet tried Kulfi this is a worthwhile (and cooling) food in Jaisalmer to try.
- Where to find it? Kum Kum Sophty Corner is just below the fort walls and sells ice blocks for 20 INR (20 cents) or packaged Kulfi for 50 INR (50 cents).
12. Lal Maas – Curry – Food in Jaisalmer
Although, much of the listed food in Jaisalmer are vegetarian options, meat has always been a significant part of food culture and celebrations in north India.
Laal Maas is a historically royal food in Jaisalmer and Rajasthan, that roughly translates as ‘red meat’. It is a mutton curry (goat or lamb) prepared in a sauce of yoghurt, hot spices and rich in garlic and a full flavour.
The red colour comes from the Mathania chilli, indigenous to the neighbouring city of Jodhpur, where the hot and humid climate is a perfect host.
Lal Maas is served on special occasions, such as weddings and festivals.
- Where to find it? Trio Restaurant and the Heritage Mandir Palace. (Or if you are lucky enough to be invited to a wedding!).
13. Kinnows, Limes, Pomegranate and Mangoes – Food in Jaisalmer
While food in Jaisalmer seems unlikely to by synonymous with fresh or tropical fruits, the desert region has a few surprises with the distinct seasons.
The markets in Jaisalmer are bustling with carts of fresh produce that changes with the seasons. Citrus fruits like Kinnow, a type of sour mandarin, and limes, thrive in the arid climate and compliment the heat of the region, served with cold water or soda water. Pomegranate and mangoes are also seasonal and more recently are being cultivated in the surrounding regions.
- Where to find it? The fruits are a colourful addition to the busy markets in Jaisalmer, with stalls around the fort offering lime sodas and juices.
This juice shop is one of the oldest drink cafes in Jaisalmer and is situated brilliantly between the Fort and Gadisar Lake. It sells assorted interesting lassis and fresh juices.
14. Bhang Lassi – Beverage
I’m adding this one at the end because although it’s a beverage and albeit, containing ‘Bhang’, this Lassi shop is always listed along with other popular food in Jaisalmer.
Bhang is an edible preparation made from the leaves of the cannabis plant, originating in the Indian subcontinent. It has been used in food and drink as early as 1000 BC in ancient India.
In Jaisalmer, the iconic Bhang Lassi shop has been situated in the same spot below the Fort for over twenty years, offering lassis of different strength, Bhang cookies, cakes and chocolates.
It is even listed in the Lonely Planet travel guide to India. But, enjoy with caution. It is supposedly legal at this shop in Jaisalmer and we can confirm it does get busy with punters…
- Where to find it? The iconic Jaisalmer Bhang Shop is situated below the Fort entrance in Gopa Chowk.
Where to eat in Jaisalmer / Cafes, restaurants and best food in Jaisalmer
Like with any Indian city there is a seemingly limitless choice of new foods to try, places to eat and chai to drink in Jaisalmer.
But if it is your first time to the Golden City then it can be understandably overwhelming to narrow down the choices. Here are some of our favourite places to eat good food in Jaisalmer.
Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets / Bhatia Market
This place in Bhatia Market has been churning out traditional Rajasthani and Jaisalmeri sweets for 12 generations. You won’t miss it on the corner heading up towards the Fort. If you haven’t yet tried Ghotua – the most famous of Jaisalmeri sweets – this is the place to do it.
Natraj Restaurant
Natraj Restaurant is listed every year in the Lonely Planet guide for Jaisalmer and is a long-running local restaurant serving Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisine. The rooftop has a great view over the upper part of the Salim Singh ki Haveli and across the south of town.
Natti’s Chai Shop / Natraj Restaurant in Gandhi Chowk
We first discovered Natti’s small chai shop on our first trip to Jaisalmer. It has since become a favourite place to stop and cool down with a cold drink from the fridge or a tasty chai on every visit. Natti is well known in town and is a real character, coming up with magic tricks and puzzles that keeps all of us on our toes and coming back to find out the answer!
- Tip: The small Natraj Restaurant is just off Gandhi Chowk. Call in and say hi to Natti.
Bharat Juice Shop / Pansari Bazar
This juice shop is one of the oldest drink cafes in Jaisalmer and is situated brilliantly between the Fort and Gadisar Lake. It sells assorted interesting lassis and fresh juices. And if juices in India aren’t (yet) your thing it also offers fresh drinking coconuts (as pure as it comes).
Wanderlust Guesthouse Café and Restaurant
If you are nervous about trying street food or news foods in India, this is the perfect place to do it. Wanderlust Guesthouse has a great small, rooftop restaurant with seriously epic views of sunset over Jaisalmer fort.
If you want to try some region-specific food in Jaisalmer, this is a great place to ask for a Gatta curry (Gatte Ki Sabji) or try desert beans (Ker Sangri).
The Trio Restaurant / Gandhi Chowk
Trio Restaurant is a popular and long-running eatery right in the heart of Gandhi Chowk and next to Mandir Palace. The restaurant was started by three friends and serves Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisines and offers reliably good veg and non-veg traditional dishes.
There is a small museum room at the entrance of the restaurant with a glimpse of the past. Check out the beautiful old chapati boxes stacked above the photo wall.
Mandir Palace Restaurant / Gandhi Chowk
Mandir Palace is one of the main sights and things to do in Jaisalmer. As well as a heritage museum in the palace grounds there is also a two-story restaurant serving a menu of Indian and international dishes. The rooftop restaurant has a great vantage point and lookout above the palace grounds.
Prabhu Tea Sall / Hanuman Chowk
This chai shop – Prabhu Tea Stall – is a firm favourite on our trips to Jaisalmer and our India Group Trips. Every morning this small shop is absolutely buzzing from sunrise with cups and flasks of hot tea being poured and boiled in huge pots on the outside stove.
The best time to visit to take it all in is in the early morning. So, if you are feeling the jetlag, you are in luck this time.
What is the best way to get to Jaisalmer? By bus? Plane? Or train?
Jaisalmer Railway Station (JSM) is the end of the railway line. But the city is well connected with daily trains to and from Jodhpur, Jaipur, Delhi and beyond.
There are three main trains to Jaisalmer:
- RANIKHET EXP (15014)
- SHALIMAR EXP (14646)
- LEELAN EXP (12468)
Traveling from Jaipur to Jaisalmer by train takes between 12 – 15 hours. From Delhi the journey is 18 – 20 hours.
The train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer should take around 6 – 7 hours.
- Read about taking the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer or from Delhi to Jaisalmer and how to book train tickets for India here.
Buses are another option to get to Jaisalmer if the arrival hours of the trains don’t appeal.
Jodhpur is the closest major city connecting Jaisalmer. There are hourly buses from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur departing during the day. The journey is around 6 hours by bus. And there are two daily buses (06:00H and 14:00H) that depart from Jaisalmer to Bikaner.
Flights to Jaisalmer operate in the tourist season (winter) from October to March. But for the rest of the year there are no commercial flights to Jaisalmer.
Where to stay in Jaisalmer
Wanderlust Guesthouse is a small accommodation outside of the Fort and in walking distance to all the things to do in Jaisalmer within the old city. We stay there every time we visit Jaisalmer. And at risk of sounding repetitive, it is our favourite place to stay in India! Not only for the comfortable, clean rooms but because of the small restaurant and delicious meals that Padam and his team deliver every time.
If you are nervous about trying new food in Jaisalmer or street food in India in general, this is the perfect place to do it.
The small, rooftop restaurant at Wanderlust Guesthouse has a great menu with homecooked Indian dishes, region-specific dishes from Rajasthan and the Thar Desert, and the best lassis in town. Or if you are feeling the need for something familiar there are options for simple but tasty pasta and toasted sandwiches.
More about travel planning for India and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home).