Away With The Steiners

Food In Jaisalmer: What To Try That Is Safe, Tasty & Different. 

Because India so incredibly diverse, each region has its different cuisines and specialities. The food in Jaisalmer is influenced by the history, culture and natural environment of the surrounding desert region – which makes for a truly unique experience of food again in India!

The Golden City might be known for its safaris and majestic fort, but there are tastes aplenty too. 

There are famous sweets and not-to-be-missed curries, and beans and berries native only to Jaisalmer. There are surprising fruits, well-known hot beverages, and a type of bread that just really makes sense in the desert. 

The food in Jaisalmer captures the resourcefulness of the people who call the desert their home.  

Welcome to Jaisalmer!

Food in Jaisalmer: Safe, Tasty & Different

Here is our guide to the unique and noteworthy food in Jaisalmer to try on your visit.

Ready? 🙂

1. Ghotua Ladoo – Sweet: Food in Jaisalmer 

Ghotua is an Indian sweet that originates from Jaisalmer. It is a soft, dessert type sweet made with Gram flour (chickpea flour) and pounded by hand with pure Ghee (clarified butter), cardamon and saffron.  

The most famous place to try Ghotua is at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets. This place in Bhatia Market has been churning out traditional Jaisalmeri sweets for 12 generations! You can’t miss it on the corner heading up from Gandhi Chowk towards the Fort and it won’t be mistaken for the queue outside or the bright yellow winds of sweet Jalebi stacked up above the cauldrons of sugar syrup. 

If you haven’t yet tried Ghotua – the most famous sweet food in Jaisalmer – this is the place to do it. 

Owner Vinay Bhativa will proudly show you the handmade Ghotua and photos of his forefathers that made the delicious sweets before him. Ghotua is one food in Jaisalmer not to miss! 

Vinay Bhativa and some very delicious Ghotua at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets food in Jaisalmer.
Vinay Bhativa and some very delicious Ghotua at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets.

2. Ker Sangri – Curry: Food in Jaisalmer

Ker Sangri is a traditional Rajasthani vegetable dish crafted from desert beans and berries found exclusively in the arid region of Jaisalmer. This unique pairing consists of Ker, a tangy shrub berry native to the Thar Desert, and Sangri, a long bean harvested from the prickly, flowering Khejari tree.

Historically, these ingredients were a nutritional lifeline for desert communities, serving as a vital food source during harsh droughts and famines when little else could survive the rural landscape.

Today, the dish remains a staple Food in Jaisalmer and its culinary identity—a must-try local delicacy that residents proudly share with travellers as a true taste of the desert.

3. Masala Chai 

Masala Chai – a sweetened and spiced, milk tea – is the most consumed beverage in India and one that every visitor must try. It is made by brewing black tea with spices, sugar and milk.  

Although, like many travellers, we don’t drink tea with sugar, there is something so comforting and delicious about Indian Masala Chai. 

In Jaisalmer, the best place to try a local Masala Chai is in the huge chowk (square) known by locals (and visitors like us) as ‘Chai Chowk’ because of the number of chai stands and small chai cafes surrounding the edge of the square. 

Each morning these chai shops open at sunrise and the steady stream of punters starts from the early morning. The small plastic stools and bench seats fill continuously with men as chai is savoured over quick conversations.  

Over our many visits to Jaisalmer, Gavin joins the morning crowds daily in our stays and even reckons it might be worthy of the ‘best chai in India’ award of any that we have tried 🙂

Masala Chai in Jaisalmer at the busy Prabhu Tea Stall in Chai Chowk.

4. Gatte Ki Sabji – Curry 

Gatte ki Sabji is a delicious vegetarian curry made with Besan (gram flour / chickpea flour) dumplings. It is another food in Jaisalmer that is particular to the desert region where fresh vegetables and ingredient options can be limited, especially in times of drought.  

In Gatte curry, the main ingredient are the dumplings made from a flour dough and served with a spicy, yogurt-based gravy.

It is a unique food in Jaisalmer to try and a humbling reminder of the resourcefulness of the people in the desert regions of India. 

https://awaywiththesteiners.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/fd97df9b-1ca8-4dec-96f6-4b6ca3840dac.mp4
Trying Gatta Curry – Gatte Ki Sabji – at Wanderlust Guesthouse, Jaisalmer.

Looking for the best Camel Safari in Jaisalmer? We go every time with Wanderlust Guesthouse and can’t recommend it highly enough!

5. Pyaz Ki Kachori – Snack 

Kachori is a deep-fried, spicy, stuffed pastry originating from the Rajasthan region of India. It is a popular snack food in Jaisalmer and another fast-food type of dish commonly enjoyed for breakfast in northern India.  

In Jaisalmer, most Kachori is vegetarian and stuffed with spicy pulses and onions. We thought at first it might be Samosa. But where Samosa is made with a hard dough, Kachori will have a soft, outer layer of hand-patted flaky fried pastry. 

Kachori served ready for breakfast with other fried snacks.

6. Jalebi – Sweet: Food in Jaisalmer 

Jalebi is a popular dessert and snack sweet in South Asia. It is a crispy, pretzel-like and syrupy sweet that is easily recognisable by its usual bright orange or yellow colour.  

The sweets are made by frying batter into crispy swirls, then will be dipped in a sugary syrup made with cardamom and saffron. A bit like a syrupy, spiral of sweet donut! 

Jalebi was brought to India by Persians, and so it is a particularly popular food in Jaisalmer due to the geographical location right on the far west of Rajasthan. 

There are numerous shops in the market with brightly coloured orange and yellow Jalebi out front, but for the freshest, stop at Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets on your way to the fort.

The impressive stacks of bright yellow Jalebi en route to Jaisalmer Fort.
Frying vibrant spirals of Jalebi in Jaisalmer.

7. Dal Pakwan – Snack: Food in Jaisalmer 

Dal Pakwan is another food in Jaisalmer that we haven’t otherwise seen yet in India. It is typically a breakfast or morning snack from the Sindh region of South Asia, and consists of a lentil dish which is scooped up with a thin, crisp fried bread called a Pakwan.  

The Pakwan is a deep-fried and crisp unpuffed type of Puri (fried bread) flavoured with salt and pepper. It comes served with a side of Chana or Dal. But we usually just get the Pakwan topped with coriander or tamarind chutney and/or chopped onion. It’s seriously good! 

Dal Pakwan is a fun and light snack at breakfast time.
The Dal Pakwan food cart by the entrance to the main local market in Jaisalmer.

8. Dal Bati – Bread: Food in Jaisalmer

Dal Bati is another popular Rajasthani delicacy. It is a combination meal with Dal, a soupy lentil dish that you will find all over India and South Asia. But the accompanying bread called Bati is an unusual hard, bread roll that is commonly cooked over charcoals.  

As far as food to try in Jaisalmer, Bati is the star of this show.  

It is unlike other Indian breads which are famously flat. Bati is served in a rock-like ball as a bread roll. Yet oddly, it is hard enough to tear apart and dip in the Dal or add it to a curry to soak in the flavour.  

It is an easy bread to cook on charcoal without even need for a hot-plate, deeming it both a unique Indian bread and a region-specific food in Jaisalmer and the desert regions of Rajasthan. 

Bati rolls on a platter with Chapati.
Eating the local way softening the Bati in delicious Lal Maas.

9. Churma: Food in Jaisalmer 

Churma is another popular-but-unusual Rajasthani food in Jaisalmer, usually served along with Dal Bati as Dal Bati Churma.  

It is made from coarsely ground wheat (bread), crushed then cooked with Ghee (clarified butter) and sugar. The texture is a crumbly powder like a sweetened breadcrumb or cereal.

This slightly odd texture and taste is tricky to get used to as a visitor. That, and the fact it’s usually served before the meal or accompanying savoury Dal and Bati like a sweet accompaniment.    

Churma and other sweets on the platter to the right (served with amazing Lal Maas).

10. Dates: Food in Jaisalmer 

The food in Jaisalmer is influenced hugely by the desert environment. In the right season, dates are everywhere at the market.  

I admit, it was at first unusual to see the brightly yellow-coloured dates for sale all fresh like that, as opposed to piles of dried dates more common in the Middle East. But dates are often served as a fresh food in Jaisalmer or incorporated into traditional Rajasthani desserts.  

Fresh yellow dates (and how about that beard?!).
Red dates and yellow dates at the market.

11. Kulfi Ice Block: Food in Jaisalmer

This might seem like an obvious choice for the list, but if you are visiting Jaisalmer at any time of year it can get hot, hot. Cooling down with a Kulfi (ice block) just makes sense. 

Kulfi is a type of traditional Indian dessert. It differs from ice cream in that it is made with dairy and un-churned, so it has a more solid finish when frozen – and it is delicious.  

If you haven’t yet tried Kulfi this is a worthwhile (and cooling) food in Jaisalmer to try. 

Kum Kum Sophty Corner in Jaisalmer.
Taking a refreshing break with ice blocks and Kulfi.

12. Lal Maas – Curry: Food in Jaisalmer

Although, much of the listed food in Jaisalmer are vegetarian options, meat has always been a significant part of food culture and celebrations in north India.    

Laal Maas is a historically royal food in Jaisalmer and Rajasthan, that roughly translates as ‘red meat’. It is a mutton curry (goat or lamb) prepared in a sauce of yoghurt, hot spices and rich in garlic and a full flavour.  

The red colour comes from the Mathania chilli, indigenous to the neighbouring city of Jodhpur, where the hot and humid climate is a perfect host. 

Lal Maas is served on special occasions, such as weddings and festivals.

Feeling like the luckiest traveler to Jaisalmer to be invited to a traditional wedding and feast inlacing Lal Maas.
Delicious buckets of Lal Maas being served.

13. Kinnows, Limes, Pomegranate and Mangoes

While you might not expect food in Jaisalmer – a desert city – to be a hub for fresh or tropical produce, the region’s distinct seasons offer some refreshing surprises. The local markets are a hive of activity, featuring colourful carts loaded with seasonal harvests that change throughout the year.

Because of the arid climate, citrus fruits like Kinnow—a uniquely tart mandarin—and limes thrive here. They provide a perfect, zesty relief from the desert sun, especially when pressed into juices or served with chilled soda water. You’ll also find vibrant pomegranates and lush mangoes appearing in the stalls; these fruits are increasingly being cultivated in the surrounding areas thanks to evolving agricultural techniques in the region.

Sweet limes and fresh red dates in Hanuman Chowk, Jaisalmer.

14. Bhang Lassi – Beverage 

I’m adding this one at the end because although it’s a beverage and albeit, containing ‘Bhang’, this Lassi shop is always listed along with other popular food in Jaisalmer. 

Bhang is an edible preparation made from the leaves of the cannabis plant, originating in the Indian subcontinent. It has been used in food and drink as early as 1000 BC in ancient India. 

In Jaisalmer, the iconic Bhang Lassi shop has been situated in the same spot below the Fort for over twenty years, offering lassis of different strength, Bhang cookies, cakes and chocolates.  

It is even listed in the Lonely Planet travel guide to India. But, enjoy with caution. It is supposedly legal at this shop in Jaisalmer and we can confirm it does get busy with punters…

The iconic Bhang Lassi Shop in Gopa Chowk just below Jaisalmer Fort.

Where To Eat: Best Food in Jaisalmer

Like with any Indian city there is a seemingly limitless choice of new foods to try, places to eat and chai to drink in Jaisalmer. But if it is your first time to the Golden City then it can be understandably overwhelming to narrow down the choices. 

Here are some of our favourite places to eat good food in Jaisalmer.

Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets – Bhatia Market

This place in Bhatia Market has been churning out traditional Rajasthani and Jaisalmeri sweets for 12 generations! You won’t miss it on the corner heading up towards the Fort. If you haven’t yet tried Ghotua – the most famous of Jaisalmeri sweets – this is the place to do it. 

Natraj Restaurant 

Natraj Restaurant is listed every year in the Lonely Planet guide for Jaisalmer and is a long-running local restaurant serving Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisine. The rooftop has a great view over the upper part of the Salim Singh ki Haveli and across the south of town. 

Natti’s Chai Shop – Natraj Restaurant in Gandhi Chowk

We first discovered Natti’s small chai shop on our first trip to Jaisalmer. It has since become a favourite place to stop and cool down with a cold drink from the fridge or a tasty chai on every visit.  

Natti is well known in town and is a real character, coming up with magic tricks and puzzles that keeps all of us on our toes and coming back to find out the answer! 🙂

Meet Natti at the small Natraj Restaurant in Gandhi Chowk. 

Bharat Juice Shop – Pansari Bazar

This juice shop is one of the oldest drink cafes in Jaisalmer and is situated brilliantly between the Fort and Gadisar Lake. It sells assorted interesting lassis and fresh juices.  And if juices in India aren’t (yet) your thing it also offers fresh drinking coconuts (as pure as it comes). 

Wanderlust Guesthouse Café and Restaurant 

If you are nervous about trying street food or news foods in India, this is the perfect place to do it. Wanderlust Guesthouse has a great small, rooftop restaurant with seriously epic views of sunset over Jaisalmer fort.

If you want to try some region-specific food in Jaisalmer, this is a great place to ask for a Gatta curry (Gatte Ki Sabji) or try desert beans (Ker Sangri). 

The Trio Restaurant – Gandhi Chowk 

Trio Restaurant is a popular and long-running eatery right in the heart of Gandhi Chowk and next to Mandir Palace. The restaurant was started by three friends and serves Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisines and offers reliably good veg and non-veg traditional dishes. 

There is a small museum room at the entrance of the restaurant with a glimpse of the past. Check out the beautiful old chapati boxes stacked above the photo wall. 

Mandir Palace Restaurant – Gandhi Chowk 

Mandir Palace is one of the main sights and things to do in Jaisalmer. As well as a heritage museum in the palace grounds there is also a two-story restaurant serving a menu of Indian and international dishes. The rooftop restaurant has a great vantage point and lookout above the palace grounds. 

Prabhu Tea Sall – Hanuman Chowk 

This chai shop – Prabhu Tea Stall – is a firm favourite on our trips to Jaisalmer and our India Group Trips. Every morning this small shop is absolutely buzzing from sunrise with cups and flasks of hot tea being poured and boiled in huge pots on the outside stove.  

The best time to visit to take it all in is in the early morning. So, if you are feeling the jetlag, you are in luck this time.  

Getting There

What is the best way to get to Jaisalmer? Bus? Plane? Or train? 

Whether you choose the tracks, the road, or the air, Jaisalmer is more accessible than its remote desert location suggests. Which, spoiler alert, we have done all three modes of transport and many times over the years.

But – there is a ‘but’ – it is far more convenient at certain times of year.

Travelling by Train

The Jaisalmer Railway Station (JSM) marks the end of the line, but it remains a busy hub with daily connections to major cities like Jodhpur, Jaipur, and Delhi. The most popular services include:

Expect the journey from Jaipur to take between 12 and 15 hours, while the trip from Delhi is a longer haul at 18 to 20 hours.

If you are coming from Jodhpur, the train is a breeze, taking roughly 6 to 7 hours. 😀

Taking the Bus

Buses are a fantastic alternative if train schedules don’t align with your plans. Jodhpur serves as the primary gateway, with buses departing for Jaisalmer nearly every hour during the day for a 6-hour trip.

If you’re heading toward Bikaner, there are two dedicated daily departures at 06:00 and 14:00.

Flying In

For those short on time, commercial flights operate into Jaisalmer, but there’s a catch: they are strictly seasonal.

Flights generally run during the peak tourist months from October to March. During the off-season, you’ll need to rely on the road or rail.

Catching the overnight train to Jaisalmer.

Where To Stay in Jaisalmer 

Wanderlust Guesthouse is a small accommodation outside of the Fort and in walking distance to all the things to do in Jaisalmer within the old city. We stay there every time we visit Jaisalmer. Which at risk of sounding repetitive, it is our favourite place to stay in India! Not only for the comfortable, clean rooms. But because of the small restaurant and delicious meals that Padam and his team deliver every time. 

If you are nervous about trying new food in Jaisalmer or street food in India in general, this is the perfect place to do it.  

The small, rooftop restaurant at Wanderlust Guesthouse has a great menu. Try homecooked Indian dishes, region-specific dishes from Rajasthan and the Thar Desert, and the best lassis in town. Or if you are feeling the need for something familiar there are options for simple but tasty pasta and toasted sandwiches. 🙂

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