Away With The Steiners

Horse Riding In Mongolia: The Heart Of Horse Culture.

I’m not typically someone who can keep a secret, but Mongolia was such a unique destination that I managed to pull off the ultimate surprise for Gavin’s “significant” milestone birthday, to go horse riding in Mongolia.

While he knew we had two weeks off, the destination remained a complete mystery until the morning of his birthday. I handed him his passport, revealed the Mongolian visa inside, and gave him exactly three and a half hours to go buy the clothes and boots he’d need for the trek!

Since we both grew up around horses, the idea of a riding challenge wasn’t a total shock, but horse riding across the Mongolian steppe had been a shared bucket-list dream for years. We couldn’t wait to finally tick it off together.

Inside a Mongolian ger.
The beautiful inside of a Mongolian ger tent.

Quickly, About Mongolia

Highlights & Things To Do in Mongolia

These are the highlights and things we enjoyed from our travel to Mongolia:

1. Hustai National Park

For our first day out in Mongolia, we had an amazing day trip out to Hustai National Park.

Through our hostel in Ulaanbaatar we found a driver to take us, and headed for Mongolia’s Töv Province. The park is a huge conservation area, known for its population of wild takhi (Przewalski’s horse) and its ger (yurt) camps.

Despite the language barrier, Gavin and our driver Tuvchuu, spent most of the two hour trip discussing every kind of truck brand that passed; and the pros and cons of each…

“Here comes a Daewoo!”

Whilst looking to the other side of the road, I admired the hundreds of horses, goats and Gers we passed. The mountains that seemed to unfold forever!

The Przewalski horse, for which the park is famous for, are renowned as being the only surviving species of wild horse that remains. They are officially the last truly wild horses on the planet. It was surreal to be there and see them in the wild.

Passing a village with the Mongolian Steppe stretching out behind.

2. Horse Riding on the Mongolian Steppe

This was the experience we had been dreaming of! This was what we had come for.

We booked our tour for horse riding in Mongolia with SteppeRiders, staying at their traditional yurt camp before and after our journey.

Night 1: Bogd Khan Uul National Park

Our expedition began in Bogd Khan Uul National Park, where we spent our first night camping in the forest near the ruins of the Manzushir Monastery. Wandering through the deserted site was a powerful experience, offering a glimpse into the massive scale of Mongolian Buddhism before the era of political repression.

Our horses hobbled while we stopped for lunch in Bogd Khan Ulu National Park.
Looking down the valley towards our campsite in the shelter of the trees down below.

Night 2: Lunch in a Yurt

After a day of riding through dense forests and small villages, we shared a traditional Mongolian meal with a nomadic herder family at lunchtime. It was truly a “pinch-me” moment to be sitting in a yurt, immersed in their way of life.

By the end of the second day, we emerged from the trees onto the infinite, rolling hills of the steppe. The landscape was unlike anything we had ever seen: no fences, no buildings, and no boundaries—just the vast, open horizon and the sound of our horses.

My companion and immediate view for the next few days.

3. Staying with a Nomadic Herder Family

Staying with a nomadic family was an unforgettable highlight—perhaps the best part of our entire adventure horse riding in Mongolia.

After a day of riding, we hobbled our horses for the night and relaxed in the wide-open spaces surrounding the family’s three summer yurts.

The vastness was breathtaking; there wasn’t a road in sight for miles. It was truly inspiring to witness their independence and self-sufficiency, watching them lean into the livestock and routines that have sustained their way of life for generations.

Resting up post-horse-riding muscles with a warm tea inside our Ger camp for the night.

4. Playing Mongolian Shagai

Forget fidget spinners. Our driver, Tuvchuu, introduced us to a much more exciting craze: Mongolian Shagai. It is a traditional game played with actual sheep knucklebones.

It was highly addictive, though I have to admit, both he and Gavin beat me soundly!

Tuvchuu setting up for a game of Mongolian Shagai.
I am sure with a bit more practice I might beat them!

The Challenge of the Saddle: Horse Riding in Mongolia

While we used Russian-style saddles, the local horsemen used traditional Mongolian saddles. They have an incredible way of perching above the wooden frame, mostly riding while standing up in their stirrups.

Our saddles had slightly more leather, but they were still built around a very solid wooden frame. Let me tell you: after three days of constant riding, you start to feel every inch of that wood!

Tips for Comfort:

If you’re planning a trek, do yourself a favour and prioritise comfort from day one. Your body will thank you – trust me!

Our herder, Buena’s beautiful wooden Mongolian-style saddle.

Accommodation in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Finding the right accommodation in Ulaanbaatar is essential, as the city serves as the central hub for organising your adventures to go horse riding in Mongolia.

Zaya Hostel, Ulaanbaatar

We really rated Zaya Hostel. Located right in the center of town, this exceptionally well-organised hostel has comfortable common areas and a friendly, knowledgeable staff.

Your stay includes breakfast and the convenience of an airport pickup, all within easy walking distance of local restaurants and supermarkets. It was a great start to our trip.

SteppeRiders, Bogd Khan Uul Park

Based on the outskirts of Ulaanbaatar, SteppeRiders is the horse-trekking agency that we booked our Mongolian horse riding tour with. It is highly professional with excellent communication. They provide a wide range of trek lengths suited for all abilities, making them a great choice for both beginners and experienced riders.

Stocking up with snacks and souvenirs in Ulaanbaatar.

Getting to Mongolia

We traveled from New Zealand with a layover in Beijing, China.

If you are transiting through China to get to Mongolia, it is vital to check the latest visa requirements. Many travellers (including New Zealanders) can currently benefit from China’s 30-day visa-free entry or 144-hour transit policies.

But the rules can get complicated if your itinerary includes multiple stops within China — like our return flight, which went through both Beijing and Shanghai. [You can read about that mistake here!].

Arriving in Ulaanbaatar

International flights land at Chinggis Khaan International Airport (UBN).

It is located about 50km (31 miles) from the city center, and the drive typically takes between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours depending on Ulaanbaatar’s famous traffic.

Transport Options:

The steppe.

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