Away With The Steiners

Would you visit India’s Rat Temple in Bikaner, Shree Karni Mata Mandir?

Sarah Steiner

Ever heard of a temple in India for worshipping rats?  Shree Karni Mata Mandir is known as the Rat Temple in Bikaner.  It is a Hindu temple built to honour Karni Mata, an incarnation of the Hindu goddess Durga.  And the temple is home to thousands of rats that roam freely within its sacred walls, attracting curious travellers and pilgrims from all over.

If this already sounds disquieting, just give me a minute.  

It is unapologetically one of the most improbable sites of Hinduism that exists.  But while it sounds unusual to outsiders, the temple holds immense significance for its devotees.  

And travel in India always delivers boundless surprises! 

Here is everything you need to know and some background deets for whether and why you should consider a visit to Shree Karni Mata Mandir, the Rat Temple in Bikaner. 

About Bikaner

For visitors, the town of Bikaner is a bit further off the main tourist trail.  Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur together form the desert triangle in the west of the state of Rajasthan.  

Bikaner was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a descendant of Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur.  

The city was a major centre of trade during the 15th and 16th century as it lies on the ancient caravan trading route which linked Central Asia and North India with the seaports of Gujarat to the south.  

Today, Bikaner is known as the ‘City of Havelis’.  The incredible fort, palaces and Havelis display remains of the rich and wealthy history of this desert trading city.  And it is also home to one of the world’s largest camel research and breeding farms which is open to visit.  

That is, as well as being known for having its own unique temple dedicated to Karni Mata and 25,000 holy rats…

Visiting Karni Mat Rat Temple in Bikaner, India.
Arriving at Karni Mata Temple and thinking it looks fairly normal from the outside, right?

Shree Karni Mata Mandir – the Rat Temple in Bikaner

Shree Karni Mata Mandir is famously known as the ‘Rat Temple’ in Bikaner.  As a visitor, there is no other way to describe it except that it is grimly unusual and inordinately unique.  But for visitors and pilgrims, Karni Mata Temple is one of the most oddly famous things about Bikaner.   

There is agreeably some disclosure needed for upcoming rat photos (there will be a few; sorry).  But the Rat Temple in Bikaner is somewhere that warrants a proper introduction.  

The temple is located in Deshnok, about 30km from Bikaner.  It is dedicated to Karni Mata and the more than 25,000 rats that inhabit the temple complex.  

Followers believe the sacred rats are the reincarnation of their own deceased relations.  And so devotees come from all over India to worship Karni Mata and their deceased loved ones. 

It is certainly a unique belief and one that as a visitor doesn’t become any less novel thinking about it – or visiting.  

The temple is located in Deshnoke about 30km from Bikaner; but it’s a bit soon for this kind of claim…

Who is ‘Karni Mata’ that the Rat Temple in Bikaner is dedicated to? 

Shree Karni Mata Temple in Bikaner is dedicated to Karni Mata, who locals believe is an incarnation of the Goddess Durga, a major Hindu goddess associated with protection, strength, motherhood. 

Karni Mata was a Hindu warrior sage from the Charan caste, who lived in Rajasthan in the fourteenth century.  

She was regarded and worshipped as an incarnation of Durga and performed numerous miracles as a tutelary deity of the Rajputs and Charans of northwestern India. 

About the legend of Karni Mata – the Rat Temple in Bikaner

Karni Mata was an embodiment of Shakti and remained celibate.  She chose for her younger sister to marry her husband, Depaji, in order for continuation of his line.  Depaji had four sons with her, the youngest of whom was Laxman.  Karni Mata cared for them as her own children. 

According to the legend, Laxman was drinking water from the pond, Kapil Sarovar, when he accidentally drowned.  Her sister lifted the boy’s body and brought it to the temple Murti (inner sanctum), closed the doors, and said not to open them.  She begged for Karni Mata to pray to Yama Raj, the God of Death, that he be brought back to life.  

At first Yama refused.  But eventually, he decided that Karni Mata’s son and each dead member of Karni Mata’s family would from then on be reincarnated as a rat and return to live near her within the temple.  

Relatives of Karni Mata?
Worshipping other relatives and descendants of Karni Mata?

Why are there so many rats at the temple?! What is it about rats in particular? 

The rats at Karni Mata Temple in Bikaner are referred to as ‘Kabbas’ which translates in Hindi to ‘little children’. 

Devotees of Karni Mata believe that worshippers will be reincarnated as a rat rendering them as holy.  And it is thought that the thousands of rats at Karni Mata Temple are descendants of Karni Mata’s family reincarnated. 

Holy rats at Karni Mata Temple.

Wait! There are HOW many rats at Karni Mata Temple?

It is estimated that the temple houses as many as 25,000 rats!  There are literally thousands of rats that live in the temple and its surroundings. 

But, as a bit of disclosure before going any further into visiting details, you won’t see all those rats at once.  

In case it eases any anxiety, there is more like this many rats at one time…

So, is it worth visiting? Why would anyone visit a Rat Temple in India? 

Ha!  A very fair question to ask.  Albeit the draw of rats is not unconventional for pilgrims.  But as a visitor, it is exactly that unorthodox practice of worshipping rats that makes it even worth considering a visit anywhere alongside thousands of rats.  

The Karni Mata Temple, the Rat Temple in Bikaner, is the only one of its kind in the world.  And it’s not everyone that can say they’ve legitimately experienced a temple full of holy rats, is it? 

Apparently we were the only ones questioning why one would visit a Rat Temple in Bikaner.
Queues of devotees to enter the main Inner Sanctum of Karni Mata Temple.

How to visit Karni Mata Temple – the Rat Temple in Bikaner

Here is everything you need to know about visiting Karni Mata Temple – the Rat Temple in Bikaner.  

Opening times and entry to Karni Mata Temple 

The temple is open between 4am and 10pm daily.   There is no admission or entry fee charge for visiting Karni Mata Temple. 

There is a small fee to take photo and videos.   

However, in fact nobody approached us or asked us for the fee for photography.

Albeit we weren’t for photography but you do have to remove your shoes before entry.

What is it like visiting a temple with 25,000 rats?!

I had all these preconceived ideas about how awful it would be and our original plan was only for Gavin and Oscar to go to the temple.  But in truth, it wasn’t as bad as I had allowed myself to expect.  And those were extremely low expectations, I might add!  

I think because the entire concept of a temple filled with rats is so extreme (to us).  That the reality of being there and seeing the rats and the people worshipping and so pleased to be there, made it much quirkier – and fascinating – than unpleasant.  If that makes sense? 

I’m not going to beat around the bush and say it’s entirely jolly.  

Because it’s not.  

Once you get inside the temple there are literally rats crawling out of any hole and crevice and crossing your path before you plan your next safe footstep.  But somehow the whole experience is so unlikely it feels alternatively surreal…

The biggest thing I feel need to explain as more warning than disclosure, is that you need to enter the temple barefoot.  

There is rat piss and droppings everywhere.  And that part of it is disgusting.  (No further explanation needed).  But once we had succumbed to that fact and taken off our shoes and entered, it really is an oddly transfixing place.  

I mean, when else have you ever considered seeing people that genuinely worship rodents. And quite literally, in front of you, are preparing food to share with those said holy rats?!  

I had never imagined what it would be like to witness people worshipping rats.
Rats, rats and more rats in every crevice.

Things to see at the Rat Temple in Bikaner   

As well as the entire fact of visiting an Indian ‘Rat Temple’ in Bikaner, there are some things of further interest to look out for when you arrive. 

1. Offerings to Karni Mata and the Rats 

In Hinduism, ‘Prasadam’ is the food brought to the temple and offered to deities.  But in the Karni Mata Temple, rat worship is taken to a new level. There is not only Prasad for Karni Mata, but also for the rats.  It is considered auspicious to for worshippers to easy prasad that has already been nibbled by the rats. 

So not only are visitors arriving to buy and leave Prasad inside the temple.  But they are also preparing food that some devotees will eat alongside the rats themselves.

In the main courtyard of the temple there are metal dishes with milk and grains, and coconut shells everywhere. There are bowls on the floor filled with milk and people preparing more food inside the temple to feed directly to the rats. 

Outside the main entrance to Karni Mata Temple there are stalls and shops set up and stocked with cold drinks and more offerings.  You can easily get milk and Prasadam at various stalls outside the temple. 

A young couple buying Prasadam outside the temple.
Prasadam and trays of offerings outside the temple entrance.

2. White Rats

Most of the rats at the temple are brown.  But a few rats are white, and spotting a rare white rat is considered particularly lucky. 

The white rats found at Karni Mata are considered especially holy. We were told the white rats are considered to be the actual reincarnates of Karni Mata’s sons.

Oscar and I spotted a white rat while the others were going closer to have a look at the main altar.  Lucky us, right?  

I took a quick photo (albeit from rather far away).  But afterwards when getting our shoes back from the men at the shoe storage, the man asked if we’d spotted a white rat…

He was so incredibly excited for me when I said we’d seen one.  He started telling the others around him that we’d seen a lucky rat! 

Obviously I had to get proof of my extreme good luck. Can you see the white rat?

3. Food preparation (for the rats)

The main thing you’ll notice on entering the temple is the huge queue to get inside to the main altar.  But as well as the line of people there is an area off to the side where devotees are sitting, standing and preparing food for the rats. 

This isn’t the same place they prepare huge cauldrons of rice and milk.  But literally worshippers seated and sharing in the duties of cutting up bananas and fruit for the rats…

Devotees preparing food to feed the rats.

4. Feeding the rats 

In most places in the world, it’s considered unsanitary to share food and drinks with rats.  But at the entirely dedicated Rat Temple in Bikaner, it’s an honour.

Milk and grains are prepared for the rats and distributed in low bowls on the ground, convenient for the rats to feed from. 

We stood there slightly awkwardly but fascinated, watching an Indian family with their kids, feeding sugar cubes to the rats by hand.  There is food (and albeit, faeces) everywhere around the temple.  And, assuming you can find a clear space to stand and at a distance that feels safe to watch, this is perhaps the most fascinating part to observe as a visitor.  

Feeding the rats is considered an honour.

5. The main altar and inner sanctum of the temple 

Inside the main courtyard is another entrance way to what is known as the inner sanctum of the temple.  This is the main shrine for Karni Mata complete with a statue of the idol holding a trident in one hand and adorned by a crown and garlands.  

Non-Hindu are not permitted to enter the enclosed area of the inner sanctum.  But it is possible to get close and have a look through the trellised wall on one side.  Inside you can see devotees lined up and even closer to the deities carrying their offerings for prayer.  It is a fascinating insight, to say the least. 

Without giving too much away you can peek inside the Inner Sanctum just to the right of this small shrine.

The verdict? And would we recommend visiting Karni Mata Temple in Bikaner? 

If you are open to experiencing something that is truly different and don’t have a phobia of rats, then visiting the Rat Temple in Bikaner is certainly different.  It is a Hindu place of worship, so appropriate respect must be shown.  And there isn’t space for those that don’t like rats. 

But the Karni Mata Temple takes worshipping rats to a whole new level.  It really is a one-of-a-kind experience in India.  We didn’t know quite what to expect from our visit.  But it wasn’t as bad as we had anticipated.  

So, would we recommend it?  Yeah, we would.  You can always leave if you don’t like it.  And it is the epitome of travel stories, albeit somewhat unbelievable.  

It is not a visit for the squeamish.  But it is dubiously fascinating, nonetheless.

India is full of surprises. 

How long do you need to visit Karni Mata – the Rat Temple in Bikaner? 

Ha.  This could be an answer depending on how comfortable you feel once there.  But in practice, the temple isn’t huge and allowing an hour would be plenty. 

We didn’t spend very long there as you can’t, as non-Hindu, go inside the inner sanctum and the reality is the queues rather overwhelm the courtyard too.  Unless you are planning on staying for refreshments in the temple afterwards, an hour will be sufficient.

Refreshments afterwards anyone?

How to get to Karni Mata – the Rat Temple – from Bikaner

To get from Bikaner to Karni Mata Temple you need to take a local bus.  It is also doable by taxi but much more expensive and the bus drops you right outside the main entrance to the temple anyway. 

The local bus to Karni Mata Temple departs from a bus stop south of the old city on the corner of Choudhary Colony Road and Bikaner Nagaur Road.  

Note that the ‘bus stop’ here doesn’t look anything like a bus stop.  Rather it is just enough space for a bus or two to pull over on the corner of the main road.  There is a small convenience store on the corner.  And a few chairs outside the store.  But that’s about it as far as ‘bus stop’ looks to confirm you are at the right place. 

The bus to Karni Mata Temple from Bikaner takes around 40 minutes.  It is a popular temple for pilgrims coming from surrounding areas and everyone in Bikaner will know which temple you are looking for if you ask about a bus stop. 

And in case visiting a Rat Temple in Bikaner isn’t experience enough, the bus itself is also quite the India experience…

Catching the bus from Bikaner to Deshnoke from the corner bus stop on Bikaner Nagaur Road.
Taking a local bus in India – to a Rat Temple in Bikaner – is an experience.

How long do you need to see all the other things to do in Bikaner? 

Bikaner is a small city by Indian standards.  And many of the things to do in Bikaner are within the old city and on the city outskirts.   

While you could see most of the things to do in Bikaner in one day, I recommend allowing two days in Bikaner to have time for the camel farm and Karni Mata Temple (if you want!). 

Do you need a guide for the things to do in Bikaner? 

A guide is not required for any part of visiting Bikaner.  But like visiting any new city, we find we get so much more out of a place doing a first morning or half day with a guide. 

We did a morning tour with the host from our accommodation at The Prince Haveli, Atik Ahmed.  

Atik is born and raised in Bikaner and very passionate and knowledgeable about the city.  We learnt a lot and loved the fact he really understood that we wanted to see more of the things to do in Bikaner that aren’t officially tourist sites.

One of the highlights for us was a walk through the old city including the morning food street and seeing the markets with him.  We enjoyed the morning tour so much that the next day Gavin went out for an afternoon with Atik on his motorbike to see more.  And it was great to have Atik come with us to explain more about the Rat Temple in Bikaner. 

I do recommend a half-day or day tour to get the most out of your time in Bikaner.  Just give Atik a message and let him know the dates of your intended stay. 

On tour with Atik back in Bikaner.

Getting around otherwise in Bikaner

Most of the things to do in Bikaner around the old city are within walking distance of each other.  The Fort is in walking distance as well. But to get to the camel farm and royal cenotaphs it is easiest to get an auto rickshaw.  

The camel farm and cenotaphs make sense to do in one round-trip.  Just negotiate a price with the driver to wait for you at each site as there is no transport options available from the camel farm or cenotaphs if you get dropped off. 

Getting TO Bikaner / How to get to Bikaner

Bikaner is further north in Rajasthan and although it is not as far out of the way as Jaisalmer, it isn’t quite as well connected by rail.  

From Jaisalmer, the best way to get to Bikaner is by bus.  And from Bikaner to Jaipur or north to Amritsar it is easy by train.  

Accommodation / Where to stay in Bikaner

There is a range of accommodation in the old city of Bikaner.  

We stayed at Prince Haveli.  The reviews on booking.com for The Prince Haveli are fantastic and the owner Atik and his staff are very gracious hosts.  

The haveli has been lovingly restored and is located right in the centre of the old city.  It is a basic accommodation, but the rooms are comfortable, and it is an affordable way to experience a traditional Haveli in Bikaner.  

One of our rooms at The Prince Haveli.

Where else to stay in India  

There are some great places to stay in India.  But I’ll be the first to admit that starting out searching for accommodation in India is a bit of a needle-in-a-haystack type challenge.   

These are the hotels and accommodation we use regularly on our travels in India and that we can recommend for your trip. 

Slight chaos of bags and backpacks on arrival at the otherwise stunning Jaipur Haveli. 
Views of Punjab from the Hyatt Regency in Amritsar. 

Where else to stay in India  

More about travel planning for India and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

Read more from travel in South Asia

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