Away With The Steiners

Taking A River Launch Boat From Dhaka To Barisal, Bangladesh.

Sarah Steiner

For keen travellers, the quintessential experience of travel in Bangladesh is the opportunity to take a river launch overnight.  We travelled by launch from Dhaka to Barisal.

We loved the experience and ended up taking a second journey overnight by launch on the river from Hularhat back to Dhaka. 

I had loads of questions about how to make this happen before we arrived in Bangladesh.  So now here is everything I wanted to know about the infamous experience of travel by river from Dhaka! 

River travel in Bangladesh 

River travel is a defining aspect of life in Bangladesh.  The major rivers like the Padma, Buriganga, Meghna, and Jamuna serve as vital transportation routes around the country. 

For local’s river travel in Bangladesh is a means of transport and a way of life that has been part of the culture for centuries.  Which for travellers, offers a unique perspective on the city’s history, culture, and daily life. 

It is an incredible experience of travel in Bangladesh.

Handshake at Saderghat places to visit in Bangladesh Dhaka.
Haha! Welcome to Dhaka by the way!

Ferries, boats and launches to choose from in Bangladesh 

There are zillions of boats as means of transport in Bangladesh.  From small one-man canoe style river fishing boats to the enormous ferries that travel up and down with what you and I would describe as an overload of passenger numbers. 

But this is quintessential experience of river travel in Bangladesh.  

And yup – this is what we came for! 

The huge ferry-style boats in Bangladesh are known as ‘launches’.  These boats carry up to 500 (or more) passengers in different classes of travel.  

Though they are typically what we would call a ‘ferry’ at home.  The launches travel the rivers in Bangladesh like a type of mainstream highway. 

What local Bangladeshi people call a ‘ferry’ are the small stand-aboard boats that cross to and from over the rivers.  These transport people and goods in short distances over the rivers and from one port to the next close ferry port.  

Boarding an overnight ferry from Saderghat in Dhaka bound for Barisal is a once in a lifetime (or twice) kind of adventure.

Options for travel between Dhaka and Barisal, Bangladesh 

There are two main options for travel between Dhaka and Barisal: 

By bus, the journey from Dhaka to Barisal is around 250km which takes (ha!) around 6 hours to reach by road. 

But while there is the option to travel by bus in many directions of Bangladesh.  You can’t always travel by launch! 

Why we chose the river boat option to travel from Dhaka to Barisal 

We had seen the iconic images of the huge river launches in Bangladesh.  There used to even be a historic Rocket Launch that had been operating this same route in Bangladesh for nearly a century.  

So we knew that the boats and launches are a very traditional way to travel in Bangladesh. 

But it wasn’t until we arrived in Dhaka and visited Sadarghat – the main Dhaka river port – that we realised the significance of river travel around the country. 

The network of rivers and the number of launches, ferries and boats that ply the labyrinth of rivers is incredible! 

Sadarghat itself is like a traffic jam of rush hour ferries docking at all times of day. 

We still had a few days in Dhaka before our planned ferry to Barisal.  But we felt very excited by the adventure. 

It sure is a unique travel tick!  

Travelling in Bangladesh will inevitably involve a river-journey or two.

How long does the journey take by road from Dhaka to Barisal? 

By road, from Dhaka to Barisal is around 250km.  The journey by bus is meant to take about 6 hours.  

Though like much of travel in Bangladesh, the time given is often a rather euphemistic estimate!

The intercity buses are fine – but the local city buses leave much to be desired! 

How long does it take by boat from Dhaka to Barisal?

The journey by launch from Dhaka to Barisal takes around 12 – 14 hours. 

The launch boats mostly depart from Dhaka in the evening, travel overnight and arrive to Barisal in the morning. 

Where do the ferries and launches depart from in Dhaka? 

The large launches all depart from Sadarghat in Dhaka.  This is the main river port for the city.  

Are there different companies? Which one is recommended? 

I’ll be honest.  We couldn’t even read the names on the bright yellow signs announcing the launch companies and destinations as they rolled into Sadarghat. 

It is estimated that some 10000 – 20,000 passengers leave Dhaka in 30-35 launches every day. 

Albeit it could be more than that.  Though apparently passenger numbers have lessened since the opening of the Padma Bridge Road.  

But those are crazy numbers. 

We understood that the launches from Dhaka to Barisal carry up to 600 passengers!  Though it’s probably best not to think about that…

Any of the river ports are a busy – very – place to be at boarding time.

What time does the boat depart from Dhaka? 

Ah ha. This is the big question. 

The launch boats from Dhaka to Barisal travel mostly overnight.  There are some daytime options of varying sizes of launch. 

Though the main daily overnight boats depart Dhaka from Sadarghat between 18:00h and 20:00h.  

Launch boats lined up ready to depart from Sadarghat in Dhaka.

What time do you need to be at the ferry terminal in Dhaka? 

We were recommended to be at Sadarghat by 17:00h.  Which meant leaving our hotel in the city over an hour earlier to account for the good old Dhaka traffic. 

I would definitely suggest arriving at least at 17:00h.  

Even battling the pedestrian traffic outside the official entrance to Sadarghat is quite an adventure.  

Plus, even once we were inside the port we didn’t know which our launch was to begin with.  So this took another good chunk of time to figure out. 

It turns out our trusty ship hadn’t arrived to Sadarghat yet. 

I would say arrive after 16:00h for the evening launch from Dhaka to Barisal.  If your boat is there and you can check into your cabin you can always put your bags down and go and explore the bustle of Sadarghat. 

About Sadarghat – the River Port in Dhaka

Sadarghat is the biggest river port and busiest departure point for the launches on the rivers of Bangladesh. 

However, it is not just one huge open area.  You need to purchase a ticket to enter the official Sadarghat dock.  

There is a rather organised looking small ticket window and office at each of the gangways to the port.  

Buy a paper ticket for a few Taka – and hang onto it if you plan on coming back out – so you can enter Sadarghat.

Buying tickets to enter Sadarghat.

About the journey from Dhaka to Barisal overnight by launch boat

Obviously, the journey will be a lot different depending on whether you are travelling in Deck Class, First or Second Class or VIP Class. 

But the general journey specs are the same.  Much of the time leading up to departure is spent drinking tea and taking in the bustle of the chaotic Sadarghat port outside. 

There is always tea available on request on board. 

There are toilets on the cabin levels that are manned with an attendant who holds the key.  You will need to give him a tip for using these specially locked toilets.  But it is worth it for the privilege of these – trust me on that one. 

We enjoyed tea before we departed and passed the time chatting with the other travellers drinking tea around the cabin class dining table. 

Then it was time to depart! 

Thumbs up to an adventure about to begin on the river from Dhaka to Barisal!

How much does it cost for the launch boat from Dhaka to Barisal? 

This is a bit like the question of what time the boat departs from Sadarghat in Dhaka. 

But the ticket price for a launch from Dhaka to Barisal depends on the class of travel you choose. 

You can book a ticket yourself (in theory) from the launch terminal in Dhaka.  Though for the cabin classes these do get booked out in advance.  So, it makes sense to book ahead of time – before you arrive – through a tour agency in Bangladesh. 

Though note that booking a ticket for the launch from Dhaka to Barisal or Hulharat to Dhaka will be more expensive via an agency. 

Are there different classes of river boat travel in Bangladesh? 

For the journey by launch boat from Dhaka to Barisal, most of the vessels have the following different classes of travel:

The VIP, First- and Second-Class tickets are referred to as ‘Cabin Class’.  

Seated Class is on one of the Cabin Class levels.  Though the tickets are for a seated area that looks akin to a standard ferry with seats back home. 

The Deck Class is a lower level on the boat where tickets are for a space on the deck.  The passengers here claim a spot on the ground and spread-out blankets or bedding to lie down on. 

Our guide for the day in Dhaka, Jafar showing us the different levels of the launch boat.

What are the cabins like on board the boat from Dhaka to Barisal?

The Cabin Class level has single and double cabins and separate VIP cabins. 

The VIP cabins have a private toilet.   While the Cabin Class (First and Second) have toilets on the same level manned by an attendant. 

The swish VIP hallway on board one of the launch boats at Sadarghat.
Inside one of the First Class cabins of a launch docked at Sadarghat – though this wasn’t the boat we went on.
Inside a twin First Class cabin on our launch from Hularhat to Dhaka.

Boarding your launch boat in Dhaka 

We had time waiting for our boat to arrive to check out a couple of the other ferries lined up at Sadarghat. 

But when our boat did finally come in, the rush to get on board was impressive.  Impressively chaotic I mean! 

We were feeling somewhat shy of having booked a First-Class cabin while others rushed to get a space on the Deck Class floor.  But there wasn’t much time to consider that further as we were ushered by the friendly attendant to our two cabins on the top floor. 

There was a bit more of a wait.  

But finally, we were on our way.  With a few long toots of the foghorn, we pulled slowly out of Sadarghat just before sunset. 

Does the boat stop on the way to Barisal? 

Yes.  There are a few stops out in the river harbour as smaller boats (AKA ferries) pulled up alongside and loaded more produce, goats and people. 

Then in the morning we made more stops around sunrise to load up huge watermelons onto the Deck Class level that was becoming increasingly crowded with produce and people.  

Just stopping to load a few goats. Seriously.

Arriving in Barisal 

The Barisal River Port is the second largest and busiest river port in the country, after Dhaka.  Though it certainly doesn’t have quite the same exciting chaos of Dhaka. 

We arrived just after sunrise in Barisal and our guide, Ontu from Trip2Bangaldesh was waiting for us on the dock. 

About Barisal 

Albeit it is more of an off the beaten track destination within the country.  

But isn’t most of travel in Bangladesh? 

That is all part of its allure. 

After taking a launch from Dhaka to Barisal it makes a good jumping point to start the journey further south to the Sundarbans region. 

The floating market in Barisal is incredible to experience. 

Things to do in Barisal

Most of the things to do in Barisal are more about getting there and other river-based adventures.  

But there are a couple of stunning, historic mosques from the post-Mughal era. 

We arrived early in the morning on the boat from Dhaka to Barisal and checked in to our hotel before taking another boat trip to see the floating market. 

Gavin headed out in the afternoon to see the brightly coloured Karapur Mia Bari Masjid.  Which on description I absolutely wish I had seen too! 

We bought some Jackfruit and watermelon to eat on our boat at the floating market. 

Do we recommend the overnight boat in Bangladesh? Would we do it again? 

Heck yes!  Without question our experience of taking the overnight ferry launch from Dhaka to Barisal was one of our best adventures in Bangladesh. 

While I admit it was a pretty cushy experience travelling on the river in VIP Class.  But we enjoyed it so much we took the option for a launch again one week later. 

Taking a second journey by launch boat in Bangladesh 

We had originally planned to go by train from Khulna to Dhaka.  Though the chance for another river journey was much more appealing! 

For our second journey by launch in Bangladesh we travelled in First Class cabins from Khulna to Dhaka. 

The closest major river port in Khulna is at Hularhat.  Two launches run daily from Hularhat to Dhaka. 

The journey from Hularhat back to Dhaka takes around 14 hours overnight departing in the mid-afternoon. 

Side on to a typical multi-level Bangladeshi launch boat.

Where we stayed in Dhaka and Barisal in Bangladesh

The cost of accommodation in Bangladesh came as a surprise to us.  

I’m not going to pretend we found budget accommodation and roughed our way around the country.  

Because we didn’t.  

But cost-wise it wasn’t what we expected. 

In the cities – Dhaka, Chittagong and Sylhet – there are 5-star type accommodation.  Though it is trickier to find reviews that sound anywhere worth staying in for budget accommodation! 

These are the other places we stayed during our travel in Bangladesh: 

Do read the reviews on booking sites and use Google Maps to check out accommodation and locations before you book.   

One of two beds in our room at Hotel Pashur in Mongla.

Read more about travel in Bangladesh and South Asia

More about travel planning for Bangladesh and beyond

These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel. 

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