Main Bazar, Paharganj is a popular and well-known area for travellers to Delhi from all around the world. The main stretch of market is renowned for its street shopping, food stalls, cheap eateries and inexpensive souvenirs. You can find bohemian clothing and foreign currency and everything that screams India and low-cost shopping in between. It is a wonderful amalgamation of colour, chaos and culture.
We rate Main Bazar and reckon it needs to be on every visitor’s list for Delhi.
Albeit the bustle and jumble of crowds is not every traveller’s cup of tea. It is busy and overwhelm is an understatement. But the chaos of Paharganj comes with that thrilling feeling and confirmation of exploring the exact India you have imagined.
Welcome to the lovable chaos and cacophony of Delhi’s famous district. Here is everything you need to know about Paharganj and all the things to see and what to look out for in Main Bazar, New Delhi.
- About Main Bazar
- The Paharganj area of Delhi
- Why visit Paharganj?
- What is the best season?
- When is the best time to visit?
- Getting to Main Bazar
- Is Paharganj safe at night?
- Things to see and do in Main Bazar and Paharganj
- Supermarkets
- Pharmacies
- Getting to Delhi
- Where to eat
- Where to stay
About Paharganj and the Main Bazar area of Delhi
Main Bazar is a busy shopping street in Delhi’s bustling district of Paharganj. The literal translation of Paharganj is ‘Hilly Neighbourhood’ and the name justifies its location near the Raisina Hill area of Delhi.
The area of Paharganj was once the principal grain market of the city and housed the administrative customs division of the Mughal Empire during the 17th century.
Fast forward to the 1970’s when Paharganj saw arrival of the hippy culture with backpackers seeking cheap means of stay and food.
The tradition of affordable food and accommodation has continued and today Main Bazar and Paharganj are a low-cost area of Delhi for shopping, eating and sleeping.
Paharganj is now a vibrant and lively area offering budget accommodation to backpackers and a taste of the chaotic life of Delhi’s busy back streets that is so iconically like the India we imagine.
- Tip: Main Bazar Road runs from the New Delhi Railway Station on Chelmsford Road to beside Ramakrishna Ashram Marg Metro Station, Chitragupta Road.
Why visit Main Bazar and Paharganj in Delhi?
Paharganj is known as the ultimate backpacker area, replete with travellers, both Indian and foreign, and it is one of the many main markets in Delhi.
It is a very busy, colourful, noisy and chaotic part of the city and one of the things to do in Delhi that is unashamedly touristic yet epitomises the old India vibes of the megacity capital just as you imagine.
The entire district of Paharganj is dotted with budget hotels, cheap bars, street food and ultra-cheap restaurants in a labyrinth of alley ways that spill out from the Main Bazar.
The Main Bazar strip is quite literally the main market street running through the middle of Paharganj, extending out from New Delhi Railway Station (NDLS).
On a first visit it can be overwhelming. It is tourist-heavy and thus there are touts galore. It has a reputation for seedy nightlife and a question mark as to whether brothels and drug pedalling are evident.
But as a traveling family and after spending literally months in India we reckon Main Bazar and Paharganj are somewhat unjustly tarnished with that stigma.
Perhaps it is there if you look for it. Or if you choose to go out wandering solo in Paharganj at night things might be different. But from our end we enjoy the bustle of Paharganj, the colours and vibrant marketplaces, the friendly and now familiar faces and all the things to do in Main Bazar that make it fun and exciting.
Even if you aren’t staying in the Main Bazar area it makes a good addition to your Delhi itinerary and feels like an outing to the India you imagine.
Best time to visit?
Main Bazar is in the heart of Delhi in the north Indian state of Uttar Pradesh.
The city experiences a subtropical climate with distinct summer and winter seasons and an annual monsoon.
The winter months from November to March are mild and sunny during the day while the summer is scorching for May and June followed by a wet, humid monsoon season from July to September.
The biggest downside of the winter months in Delhi is the unescapable smog. The city is one of the most populated in the world and the pollution is at times horrendous.
November is a great month to travel in South Asia temperature-wise, but in India this is the high season for smog with farmers burning crops, Diwali season, the over-populated traffic of the city and the low fog of winter arriving.
- Tip: The best time to visit Delhi is from November to February to avoid the rains and the intense heat from April to June. Though do be aware of air pollution especially in November.
- Read about getting Dengue Fever in India after travel in the monsoon season.
When is best during the week to visit Main Bazar, Paharganj?
Like many of the markets in Delhi, Main Bazar in Paharganj is officially closed on Mondays, though a number of shops still remain open.
The stretch of Main Bazar tends to be crowded at most times of day and all the time during the week, owing largely to its proximity to the train station.
But in theory, visiting in the morning will get you the best deals as some sellers like to give deals to the first customer of the day for good luck. Or so they say!
How to get there
The Main Bazaar in Paharganj is located across the road from the New Delhi Railway Station (NDLS) and about a 10-minute rickshaw drive from Connaught Place.
The closest metro stations are at Jhandewalan (on the Blue Line) and New Delhi Metro Station (on the Yellow Line and Airport Line).
Is Main Bazar and Paharganj safe at night?
We have spent months in Delhi staying mostly in Main Bazar right smack, bang in the middle of Paharganj. We go exploring during the day as a family and I venture out solo without worry.
Of course, we travel all of India with caution and especially in the cities, as we would anywhere in the world.
We find Paharganj exciting at night and whizz through by auto rickshaw on our way to and from dinner.
Gavin loves to go and talk to people and take photographs in the market after dark. But Paharganj at night is not somewhere I’d vouch for as ‘safe’ to wander nonchalantly and especially not as a female.
There is a good viewpoint of the chaos of the marketplace from upstairs cafes like Everest and Exotic. Both have rooftop terraces with a great view looking down on the jumbling mess that is Paharganj and the pristine skyline of Connaught Place not all to far away.
As with anywhere in India – and with travel wherever you are – take care heading out at night.
If in doubt, stay in for an early night and be up and ready to explore fresh and with confidence in the morning.
Things to see and do in Delhi’s Main Bazar and Paharganj area
There is plenty to see and a whole heap of things to do in Main Bazar, Paharganj to keep every style of traveller busy and happy.
1. The Main Bazar Market in Paharganj
The main marketplace in Paharganj is what it’s all about.
A shopping outing or even just a stroll through is absolutely one of the best things to do in Main Bazar and an exciting part of Delhi to experience.
The Main Bazar market has plenty of souvenirs, trinkets and interesting things for sale and crowds for people-watching in abundance.
2. Tooti Chowk
A ‘Chowk’ in India is an intersection or roundabout where tracks or roads cross.
The Chowk is often a marketplace or open area, like here in Paharganj with the busy junction of Main Bazar and Ramdwara Road at Tooti Chowk.
At night Tooti Chowk jams full of street food kiosks and hand-pulled carts selling everything from bangles to flower garlands, fresh fruit and socks.
3. Rattan Vegetable Market
Just off Ramdwara Road is the small but sprawling vegetable wholesale market in Main Bazar.
Albeit it isn’t likely as a traveller you need to be shopping for vegetables. But the vegetable market is a genuinely local experience and is well worth a stroll through for the eye-popping colours and sneak-peak insight to everyday life in this tourist-heavy part of the city.
4. Nehru Bazar
Nehru Bazar is the stretch of market on Ramdwara Road extending from Tooti Chowk.
It is a different vibe from the tawdry tourist trade of Main Bazar. Instead it is abuzz with homeware stores, small brightly coloured temples, food stands and vegetable carts and everything in between.
5. Jackson’s Books
Jackson’s Books in Main Bazar is an iconic bookshop that has been selling books in Delhi’s busy Paharganj for more than 40 years.
It is a treasure trove full of both new and pre-loved books and advertises books in more than 10 different languages.
Books are priced at a starting rate of INR 100 ($1 USD). And there really is everything you can imagine from comic books to novels, autobiographies, travel and children’s books and more.
- Location: 5106 Main Bazar, Opposite Medikos Opticians
6. Jama Masjid Qazi Wali / Mosque
Interrupting the overhead maze of accommodation signage and advertised promises of the lowest possible price, is the historic Mosque of Qazi Wali.
According to India’s national newspaper, The Hindu, the building is almost a hundred years old and known for its intricate engravings, and arched doorways.
However, despite the heritage, the Masjid is not in use as a mosque today. But it is one of the easily recognisable things to see in Main Bazar – and a reason to look up from the bustle!
7. Shree Mahaveer Mandir / Hindu Temple
The entire honeycombed labyrinth of narrow laneways that make up Paharganj are dotted all the way along with small Hindu temples and shrines.
During the day they are trickier to spot and blend in with the colours of this chaotic part of the city. But at night they are lit up jovially with fairy lights and brightly coloured light-rays showcasing some of the thousand more Hindu deities.
In Nehru Bazar the most apparent temple (for non-Hindus to find) is the small and somewhat obscured Shree Mahaveer Mandir. Even whizzing past by rickshaw at night you can see devotees performing abeyances to Lord Durga.
- Location: Nehru Bazaar, Ramdwara Road
8. Uttam Tea Centre and Mr. Pal Singh / Tea Shop
Just beyond the junction of Tooti Chowk and Main Bazar is the small tea shop, Uttam Tea Centre.
The store is a renowned tea retailer specialising in Assam and Darjeeling blends and specialities including cinnamon and saffron as well as the usuals like Green and Oolong.
This was one of the first places in Main Bazar that connected us with Paharganj.
Gavin and Harry met the friendly owner Mr. Pal Singh on one of our first days in Main Bazar and he invited them in for tea.
The shop doesn’t sell hot tea. Rather, it is stocked to brim with tea leaves and packaged speciality spices and herbs. But as is so like the hospitality and invitation in India, Mr Singh welcomed them in, and his tea shop has since been a priority stop for a chat – or to purchase a gift of tea leaves – every time we are in Main Bazar.
- Location: Shop No – 4932 – Near Tooti Chowk
9. OM. Dairy – Milk and Milk Products / Dairy
Near the junction of Ramdwara Rd and Tooti Chowk off Main Bazar is the busy OM Dairy. This is the kind of India you imagine seeing before arriving.
The milk arrives to the dairy in huge stainless steel Dholu (pots) on the back of a bullock-drawn cart or mini-rickshaw truck. And from the dairy (minus the milk now transported in unfortunate plastic bags) it is bought in smaller Barni (urns) to be carried home by hand, hand-cart, bicycle, or sometimes by horse.
10. Lala Ram Chand Ji Jalebi Wala / Sweet Shop
Jalebi is one of the most popular sweets in India and all-over South Asia. It is a spiral-shaped, crispy and sweet dessert that’s made by frying batter and dipping it in sugar syrup.
In Main Bazar, Lala Ram Chand is the oldest and most famous Jalebi shop, selling sweet sticky treats in the same spot since 1940.
- Tip: If you are dubious about trying street food in India and haven’t braved it yet, Jalebi is one that is a fairly safe bet when it’s served hot and fresh from the oil.
11. Main Bazar Marigold Markets
Marigolds are also known as Genda in India and used in many rituals and ceremonies. In Paharganj there are many pockets of the bazar set up as small, designated flower markets.
The vibrant sunshine hue of the marigolds is considered auspicious and holds spiritual significance in India.
The blossoms are threaded onto string and used as temple adornments and offerings. And as well as being made into necklaces to welcome visitors, similar to Hawaiian Lei or Cook Islands Ei tradition.
12. Henna and Mehndi in Main Bazar
Henna is a cultural tradition in India used to celebrate special occasions with a decorative, temporary dye stain on the skin.
It is a reddish dye prepared from the dried and powdered leaves of the Henna tree. Henna is also known as Mehndi in Hindi.
For tourists, getting Henna is one of the popular things to do in Main Bazar.
There are a multitude of shops in Paharganj advertising and selling packaged shades of Henna. And you will find Mehndi artists walking around offering to apply decorative Henna for a few rupees.
Once applied it lasts 1 – 2 weeks.
13. Old Delhi Havelis in Main Bazar
Though the marketplace in Main Bazar is notorious these days for enticing budget-end shoppers and frugal backpackers there is evidence of a more opulent past.
The upper levels show signs of a former elegance with pillared balconies and decorative brickwork of what would once have been merchant homes and grand Delhi Haveli’s.
14. Souvenir shopping in Main Bazar, Paharganj
Shopping is hands down the top of things to do in Main Bazar. The entire stretch of the main shopping street and the sprawling narrower lanes of surrounding Paharganj are a haven for budget-seeking locals and tourists alike.
At the end of the bazar nearest to the train station there are stalls of suitcases and padlocks for travel aimed at local shoppers. And as the road stretches further towards the Metro end and past all the backpacker accommodation the shops change to selling souvenir India trinkets, hippy-style harem pants and hemp bags and scarfs.
There is jewellery of differing colours and quality and likewise every kind of promised quality of traditional and not-so traditional Pashmina.
It is a wonderful amalgamation of colour, chaos and culture.
Where to eat / Restaurants and cafes in Main Bazar
Choosing a café or restaurant in Main Bazar comes with a dose of bravery required or prior knowledge sourced when faced with the dirty and dusty front façade of most small eateries in Paharganj.
There are some gems though.
Remember it is a cheap, backpacker area so the décor is basic to non-existent, but prices are accordingly low and if in doubt choose the vegetarian option.
- Exotic Café: Albeit up three flights of steep stairs but the rooftop terrace has a good outlook above the jumbling mess of Tooti Chowk, and they serve good Thali, curries, pizza and cold beer.
- Everest Café: Famous in Main Bazar for being the original Nepalese café also overlooking Tooti Chowk from above.
- Sam’s Café: A long-running and popular backpacker restaurant. The downstairs area is quite small with just a few tables, however on the 4th floor rooftop there is a large seating area with plenty of tables and seats and a selection of Indian, Western and other international cuisine choices.
- Madan Café: A small and friendly family-run restaurant with all day breakfast and Indian, Western and other international menu choices. Owner Bunty and his brother make it a simple but welcoming traveller choice.
- Khosla Café: Popular, small and simple café in Main Bazar with Indian, Chinese and western options.
Cafes and restaurants near Main Bazar in Connaught Place
- Lazeez Affaire: Stylish restaurant in Connaught Place with speciality Mughalai and North Indian cuisine. They have a wide variety of starters and main courses and a huge drinks menu. We dine here everytime we are back in Delhi.
- Kaleva: A family restaurant with booth-style seating in Connaught Place. Kaleva is our go-to on family Group Trips in India with very reasonably priced meals and likewise very clean tables and service.
- Sarabana Bhavan: A seriously popular vegetarian South Indian restaurant chain. In the weekend the wait for a table is huge with queues out the door but it is well worth it for a taste of South Indian cuisine.
Are there any supermarkets in or near Main Bazar in Delhi?
The match for a ‘super’ market is definitely stretching things for the Paharganj area.
There aren’t any supermarkets as such in Main Bazar. However, there are many of the typical small, hole-in-the-wall type kiosks and even some small convenience stores that you can fit inside to grab a drink or some packaged snacks.
The largest and best stocked mini-mart (supermarket-type) kind of convenience store we found in Main Bazar is called, ‘The New Shop’.
- Tip: The New Shop convenience store is about halfway down Main Bazar Road heading away from the train station.
Pharmacies in Paharganj
There are pharmacies aplenty along the Main Bazar Road stretch of Paharganj.
SABD Pharmacy and Lifeline Medicos are two larger pharmacies that stock everything you can think of. The staff speak great English and are happy to help.
- Read how to avoid Delhi Belly in India and keep healthy for your travels.
Getting to Delhi
Most travellers begin and end their India trip in Delhi because of the large, international airport there.
It is easy to find flights to Delhi from all over the world with connections in the Middle East and South Asia.
- Read our travel guide to India including all about arriving at New Delhi International Airport, getting a SIM card for India and managing, exchanging and withdrawing money in India.
Where to stay in old Delhi, New Delhi and South Delhi or near the airport
- Mahipalpur (Airport) / Mid-Range: Taurus Sarovar Portico
Beautiful hotel only a few km’s from Delhi International Airport. A great first stop arriving in India with buffet breakfast included and a restaurant onsite.
- South Delhi / Mid-Range: Haveli Hauz Khas
A homestay style Haveli in the popular Hauz Khas area of South Delhi.
- Connaught Place / Mid-Range-Luxury: Shangri La’s Eros Hotel
The hotel has a few in house restaurants, including the signature Shang Palace and Sorrento. There’s also a gym, an outdoor pool and a spa.
- Main Bazar / Budget: Smyle Inn
Extremely basic hotel in small back alley just off Main Bazar. But with very friendly, helpful staff and simple breakfast included this is our go-to each time in Delhi.
- Main Bazar / Budget: Hotel Hari Piorko
Good location and one of the largest budget hotels in the heart of the Main Bazar, Delhi. Close to restaurants and train station. No view from rooms and the restaurant is not worth trying.
Read more about travel in North India
- Epic 10 Day Rajasthan Itinerary
- Things to do in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
- What to see in Jaisalmer Fort
- Local desert cuisine and the food to try in Jaisalmer
- Getting the bus from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur or Bikaner
- Overnight train Delhi to Jaisalmer
- Taking the train Jaipur to Jaisalmer
- Leaving Jaisalmer to Jaipur (and Jodhpur too) by overnight train
- Choosing the best camel safari in Jaisalmer
Tips for travel planning to India and beyond
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere in Asia through 12Go.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before hitting Main Bazar or traveling to India!
