Three Weeks Road-Tripping In Northern Thailand.

Considering a trip in Northern Thailand? We can really recommend the north for a great – and different – Thai destination that can be explored independently and easily by rental car.

This trip was our fifth visit to Thailand, and we wanted something different. We have done our days of Khao San Road and been excited by the attractions of Southeast Asia that used to be so authentically Thailand.

This time we wanted to try Thailand differently.

We had never been further north than Bangkok, so we booked flights in to Chiang Mai directly.

We wondered how we would enjoy Northern Thailand, without the iconically touristic beaches and sights of the south…

The verdict? We were very pleasantly surprised by the north!

Here are our highlights from Northern Thailand

As far as getting lost-in-the-right-direction goes, I’m claiming Northern Thailand as a win.

It really surprised us!

Northern Thailand by rental car with kids.
On the trail to Pu Kaeng Waterfall, Northern Thailand

Pu Kaeng – Chiang Rai, Northern Thailand

“Pu Kaeng” refers to Huay Pu Keng, a village in Mae Hong Son province of Northern Thailand, not far from Chiang Rai.

We have so many memories from finding trails and bush tracks, and pulling over when we saw a sign for a waterfall or a hike signposted from the roadside.

Which is exactly how we found Pu Kaeng.

Pu Kaeng was particularly stunning.

We had no intentions of stopping, and knew nothing of Pu Kaeng previously. But it was past lunchtime when we spotted the small signpost all in Thai, with a tiny picture of a waterfall on it.

It was a sought picnic-spot that turned into a grand jungle adventure!

The beautiful Pu Kaeng Waterfall in Northern Thailand.
The beautiful Pu Kaeng Waterfall.

Lampang – Northern Thailand

Lampang is the third largest city in northern Thailand and capital of Lampang Province.

I hadn’t honestly heard of Lampang before.

But on the map the geographic location of the city looked as if it would work out as a last stop on our Northern Thailand roadtrip.

I looked it up, and the first image of Lampang was of the stunning Wat Chalermprakiat high above the clouds. So we decided unanimously we needed to go see it!

Things to do in Lampang, Northern Thailand

  • Hike to Wat Chalermprakiat: A temple high above the clouds in Lampang.
  • Visit Wat Chiang Rai: Yes, you read that right. There is a Wat Chiang Rai in Lampang, and it looks strikingly similar to the renowned White Temple in Chiang Rai.
  • Eat street food at the market: If you are in Lampang on a Friday, the place to be is the Tha Mai Lampang Cultural Road. This night market runs from 4:30pm til 9:00pm with all kinds of Thai street food and souvenirs.
  • Admire the City Walls: They aren’t quite as impressively preserved at Chiang Mai, but the walls of Lampang’s ancient city date back to the seventh century and are still standing strong in parts.

Hiking to Wat Chalermprakiat in Lampang, Northern Thailand

The hike to Wat Chalermprakiat is well worth a stop.

Right about the time when I didn’t think we could actually climb much further (and Oscar definitely didn’t) we heard the jingling sound of prayer bells ringing in the wind from the summit temple.

You emerge out above the clouds surrounded by pagodas perched on all angles of the cliff tops!

It’s a magical spot.

Lampang, Northern Thailand.
Can you see me?

The hike to Wat Chalermprakiat turned out to be well worth the extra early start.

There was the roadside snake sighting, and the concerning number of jungle roads that even the GPS didn’t seem to know about…

But it was even worth the grumbles at the final 800 metre climb up!

It’s a beautiful walk. I highly recommend adding this to your Northern Thailand roadtrip itinerary.

At the top of Wat Chalermprakiat in Lampang.
At the top of Wat Chalermprakiat in Lampang.
At the top of Wat Chalermprakiat in Lampang.
Admiring the bugs and beetles on the way up the (many) stairs.

Roadtrip to the Golden Triangle – Northern Thailand

We loved the days road trip to far, far of Northern Thailand.

It took us about 1.5 hours from Chiang Rai to reach the Golden Triangle – the point in Thailand where you can see Laos and Myanmar from the one spot on the river bank.

It was an interesting spot, and a place for us with a whole lot of memories from each country.

But in truth, the actual site of the Golden Triangle was slightly underwhelming, and filled with tourist buses and cheap little market stalls and vendors touting their far-from-authentic wares.

The map at the Golden Triangle in the far north of Thailand.
The map at the Golden Triangle in the far north of Thailand.

However, our day had only just begun. From there we wound out into some of the back roads with plans to find one of the the highest villages of the Akha hilltribe.

We had read that from up at the village the lookout spans right down over the entirety of the Golden Triangle: Myanmar, Laos, and Thailand…

Highlight of the mission to climb up into the hills and find the hilltop village was definitely the chance to ride the old tractor up the last part.

AND discovering a couple of different Akha swings made out of four bamboo poles and a swing with a view!

Finding a local swing at the top of the hill village.

Muay Thai Boxing in Chiang Mai – Northern Thailand

We found a great AirBnB in Chiang Mai, and felt so relaxed with our own space after the rush of the past months travelling.

We explored the Old City, and made sure to check out Wat Chedi Luang. But in honesty we loved relaxing in to the local neighbourhood and finding out bearings for a few days of stability.

There was a small vegetable market within five minutes walk of our AirBnB. Which after five days of daily market-ventures we had found our favourite stalls and were recognised by the stall-holders who loved meeting the boys and gave them little sweets and treats when we returned!

We made one chore-run to a mall to sort out a few errands, but happily and quickly retreated to our little neighbourhood, pleased by the sense of familiar in staying put for more than a few days.

Gavin met the local owner of a Muay Thai boxing gym just around the corner from our house. He ended up having a few morning sessions which he really enjoyed!

Trying Muay Thai in Chiang Mai at the boxing gym next door. Travel in Northern Thailand by rental car is a great way to explore.
Up for a second round?

Fishing for Harry’s Birthday in Chiang Rai – Northern Thailand

I sometimes wonder how we luck out and find ourselves in these situations, meeting such incredible people on our travels and seeing such beautiful places.

But this time I credit it to Harry.

Once again his passion for fishing has led him to make connections with a group of fishermen.

This time we ended up out in the middle of nowhere, on Gea’s farm, fishing for catfish and tilapia for Harry’s sixth birthday.

Harry celebrating his birthday in Northern Thailand with kids. It's easy to rent a car in north Thailand.
A very happy birthday boy!
A fishing trip in Northern Thailand road trip with kids.
Relaxing after lunch and fishing efforts of the morning.
Fishing in Northern Thailand with kids.
An unforgettable day.

One thing that challenged us traveling in Northern Thailand?

Finding culture underneath the tourism.

We were wary. The changes even we have seen in Thailand due to tourism over the last ten years are massive.

It doesn’t feel authentic to us anymore. It is almost like the local people on a general scale don’t have a huge tolerance for tourism thee days. Aside from the much-anticipated money that comes from the size of the industry that is.

It takes a bit more digging to find genuine culture amongst the mass tourism in Thailand now.

But we did find it. We felt both very lucky that we did – and happy that it is still there – and that tourism hasn’t destroyed a culture so beautiful underneath.

Northern Thailand felt like a great choice to seek culture beneath the tourism overload.

Getting around in Northern Thailand hire a car to road trip Northern Thailand.
Reckon he could get a job?

Where we stayed in Northern Thailand

  • Chiang Mai: AirBnB
    A 3-bedroom house, good location, self-contained and very clean and spacious. Within five minutes walk to convenience stores and vegetable market. We stayed here twice!
  • Phayao: The Cozy Nest
    A huge room, nice breakfast, bikes to borrow and a restaurant across the road.
  • Chiang Rai: Na Na Doo Homestay
    Amazing! Our favourite place to stay in Thailand. The host, Moo, is fantastic and suggested perfect outings that really did suit us and the kids – not just standard packages. We loved the swimming pool, and Moo’s breakfast each day. We stayed twice and highly recommend!
  • Lampang: Martin Place Lampang
    Very basic accommodation, easy to find. Fine for base to explore from.
Getting around in Northern Thailand hire a car to road trip Northern Thailand. Where to stay in Thailand Chiang Mai.
Staying with host Moo at Na Na Doo Homestay in Chiang Rai was our favourite place in Northern Thailand!

We returned to the same spot in Lake Phayao after touring Northern Thailand, and I was doubling Oscar on my bike through the neighbourhood.

As we rode past a cafe we heard, “Oscar. Osssscaaaar!” – and the hotel receptionists were all out having dinner.

The next day Gavin was back at the same Muay Thai boxing class in Chiang Mai and the guys are all waving out to Harry. 

It is always special to return to the same place and feel that comfort in the familiar!

Getting around Northern Thailand

Northern Thailand is easy to get around!

In Chiang Mai we used tuk tuks and Grab taxis to get around. We walked a lot from the neighbourhood we were staying in, into the Old City Walls of Chiang Mai.

But the best part of our adventure in the north was hiring a car to explore Northern Thailand independently.

We hired a car for two weeks from rentalcars.com.

This turned out to be the best decision for us to explore Northern Thailand with the freedom to stop whenever we pleased!

Getting around in Northern Thailand hire a car to road trip Northern Thailand.
You can get around Northern Thailand by rental car – or tuk tuk!

Our budget for 3 weeks in Northern Thailand

  • Average accommodation: $50 USD per night
  • Average daily spend (food, transport, necessities): $48 USD

If we went again we would…

Explore more of the North and Central regions of Thailand.

We loved the chance to find places that we hadn’t heard of, and learn so much more about the culture in different states and regions that are less travelled.

The North is totally worth it!

Travel in Northern Thailand by rental car with kids.
We highly recommend Northern Thailand.

Read more about travel in Asia

More about travel planning for Thailand and beyond

These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel. 

  • Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It is easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
  • 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere online. 
  • Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
  • GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
  • SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
  • World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have insurance before planning to rent a car in Northern Thailand!
Oscar, Sarah, Harry and Gavin
Hi! We are the Steiners. We're a family from New Zealand with a love of travel and adventure - especially where it takes us off the beaten track! We've been travelling full-time for over six years now all around the world and our favourite thing is to share that joy of adventure.

This site is our way of paying it forward with all the tips and tricks we have learnt along the way. 
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