Away With The Steiners

Traveling in Second Class on an overnight train in India from Bikaner to Amritsar.

Sarah Steiner

We ended up traveling by overnight train from Bikaner to Amritsar in Punjab on a bit of a mission to make our way north from Jaisalmer.  The challenge?  There aren’t many options of train out of Jaisalmer and there are limited trains heading north from Bikaner.

But it wasn’t a bad thing!  Here is everything you need to know about travelling from Bikaner by train to Amritsar as well as some essential tips for surviving – and thriving – the journey by sleeper train in India.  

And hey!  The real spoiler alert for this journey?  It wasn’t even a completely overnight trip! 

Read on for the full details. 

Why were we traveling from Bikaner to Amritsar anyway? 

Our journey by train from Bikaner to Amritsar started with the challenge of trying to work out how to get from Jaisalmer to Amritsar.  

Our plan in heading north from Rajasthan to Amritsar was that we planned on crossing the Wagah Border from Amritsar, India to Lahore, Pakistan.  

But it turns out there are no direct trains from Jaisalmer to Amritsar.  From Jaisalmer there aren’t trains much further than Jodhpur or Jaipur in Rajasthan.  But it is possible to first go by bus from Jaisalmer to Bikaner.  And from there we could get an overnight train from Bikaner to Amritsar. 

It made sense to go from Jaisalmer to Bikaner and on to Amritsar to save doubling back through Rajasthan or Delhi.  And plus, it seemed like a great opportunity to visit Bikaner for a first time too. 

Options for travel from Bikaner to Amritsar

There are only two options for travel from Bikaner to Amritsar: 

By road the journey from Bikaner to Amritsar takes around 9 – 10 hours.  It is possible to go by bus (including overnight bus) or you could in theory book a private driver.  

Realistically though, the most convenient way to get there is to travel by train.  

Bikaner railway station in Rajasthan.
The ticket hall and entrance to Bikaner Junction Railway Station (BKN).

Is there a direct train from Bikaner to Amritsar? 

Yes.  The good news is there is a direct train from Bikaner to Amritsar.  

Options by train from Bikaner to Amritsar 

What makes this much easier to choose a way to make the trip is that there is oinly one daily train from Bikaner direct to Amritsar. 

We were pleased to find there is a daily option by rail to get from Bikaner to Amritsar.  However, practicalities of the arrival time after midnight make it a bit of a pain for checking in to accommodation in Amritsar.  But we needed to get there, and it sounded like an adventure. 

Here the JU JAT EXPRESS is listed with the train number #19225 and the name ‘BGKT JAMMU EXP’.

Classes of train travel in India

There are eight different classes of train travel in India that vary by comfort level, amenities and price. 

These are the classes of train travel in India listed in descending order according of price per fare. 

However, the decision of which train travel class to take for the route by train from Bikaner to Amritsar is more straight forward as not all these classes are available.

Our kids on the top bunks of 2A (AC Second Class).
Lower berth seating during the daytime before making the bottom bunk beds up for night.

Classes of train travel on the train from Bikaner to Amritsar

The Ju Jat Express train from Bikaner to Amritsar is a local Mail/Express train and only have three classes of travel: 

Note that each of these classes – 2A, 3A and SL – are all ‘Sleeper’ classes of train travel in India.  

Each of these classes of train travel have bunk-style seating.  However, the biggest difference is that 2A and 3A have air-conditioning while SL does not.  SL is officially called ‘Sleeper Class’ and has similar bunk seating.  But it does not have air-conditioning and thus has open slat-style windows. 

The layout in AC Second Class (2A) with a narrow corridor and four bunks on one side and two on the other.

About the journey.  What is it really like? 

We travelled in Second Class on the Ju Jat Express.  We made sure to arrive extra early to the train station in Bikaner as we were aware there is only one train per day from Bikaner to Amritsar and we had no other way of getting there! 

Overall, we had a good journey to Amritsar.  The AC Second Class is comfortable for a mid-overnight length of train travel in India.  However, the biggest downside of traveling this route from Bikaner to Amritsar was the late-night arrival time.  Arriving after midnight makes it tricky to go to sleep as we didn’t want to miss the stop. 

The AC 2-Tier layout means that there are four bunks in a cabin space within the air-conditioned carriage.  This is convenient travelling as a family of four as it means usually, we end up with all four bunks in the one cabin space.  

Though traveling in 2A differs from 1A in that the cabin space in 2A is separated from the rest of the carriage by a curtain.  In 1A there is a lockable door in each cabin of two or four bunks.  And in 3A there is usually no curtain separating the cabin spaces and bunks. 

Beautiful green views crossing in to the state of Punjab in the late afternoon and golden hour.

Railway stations in Bikaner and Amritsar

Bikaner Junction is the main railway station in Bikaner with six platforms including one for long-distance trains: 

Amritsar Junction is the central railway station in Amritsar: 

It is IMPORTANT to check the departure station and the station code of your train ticket so you know which railway station you are traveling to and from.  However it is easier for the train from Bikaner to Amritsar as it departs and arrives from the main railway stations in each city. 

Finding our platform in a very hot Bikaner.
Arriving after 1AM and well past midnight into Amritsar.

Buying tickets for train travel in India

There are several options for you to book and buy tickets for the trains in India independently:

With the IRCTC website you really need to have an Indian phone number to log in which is tricky from overseas.  The easiest option is with 12GOAsia. 

IMPORTANT things to know before boarding the train (any train in India)

The first thing is to check you eTicket and find these details:

Arriving at the station in Bikaner or Amritsar to board your train (or any train in India), look for the large electronic board with the scheduled departure times, expected arrival/departure times and the platform numbers. 

You can confirm the platform number by using your train name or number. 

There are small electronic signs above the platform that display the next arriving train number as well as the carriage number that pulls in directly in that space.  

These are the small, hanging digital boards that display the next arriving train number and carriage number for that spot on the platform.
The corresponding carriage number is displayed on the train carriage and digital sign above the platform. 

Are there meals included on the train Bikaner to Amritsar? 

No.  Meals are not included in the ticket price for the Mail/Express trains in Rajasthan.  However, there are Indian Railway staff that come through the carriage in the early evening to take orders for a hot dinner. 

Otherwise, there are snacks, water and drinks available at the railway station in Bikaner and Amritsar.  As well as staff that come through the carriage regularly selling bottled water, snacks and drinks. 

Buying snacks on the platform while waiting for our train in Bikaner.

What about toilets? 

Without beating around the bush, the toilets on the train from Bikaner to Amritsar are basic.  Remembering they are set up for Second and Third Class as well as the cheaper Sleeper Class.  These classes of train travel in India don’t always have a Western style toilet.  However, there are usually two options of a squat toilet in between the carriages so you can pick and choose the best of the situation in the moment…

See? You will be absolutely fine.

More about things to do in Bikaner and Amritsar

Planning your itinerary for India and wondering how long you need in Bikaner and Amritsar? 

Where to stay in Bikaner and Amritsar 

One of our rooms at The Prince Haveli in Bikaner.
Amritsar starting with a very warm welcome to the Hyatt Regency Amritsar.

Traveling further in India?

See our India Travel Guides for the best things to do, where to stay and how to get around.

More about travel planning for India and beyond

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