Overnight by train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer: What is it (really) like?

We took the overnight train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, India.  

Taking a train in India is the kind of bucketlist-of-bucketlist Indian adventures.  This is partly due to the music-fuelled Bollywood depictions of handsome heroes dancing on the rooftop.  And partly thanks to social media and sharing of eye-boggling overcrowded trains with the said roof covered in humans traveling by train.  

The spoiler alert is that it doesn’t really look like either of those. But it is a guaranteed to be a grand adventure and India never under-delivers.

Here is our review of the Leelan Express overnight train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer.  And everything you need to know to plan, book and enjoy a great ride on India’s famous trains.

• Options for train travel
• Jaipur to Jaisalmer
• Jodhpur to Jaisalmer
• Which train to book?
• Buying train tickets in India
• Classes of train travel
• Costs
• Our (honest) review
• Bedding
• Food
• Toilets
• Safety

Is there a direct train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer? 

Yes.  The good news (before we get to the impenetrable booking system of India Rail) is that there is a direct route by train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer. 

Is there just one train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer?

There are actually three regular direct trains running from Jaipur to Jaisalmer.   

• RANIKHET EXP (15014)
• SHALIMAR EXP (14646)
• LEELAN EXP (12468)

Each of the trains has a different schedule and timing from Jaipur to Jaisalmer.

• RANIKHET EXP (15014) departs daily from Jaipur (JP) at 10:10H and arrives at Jaisalmer (JSM) at 22:30H, covering the distance in 12 hours and 20 minutes.

• SHALIMAR EXP (14646) departs Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday from Jaipur (JP) at 05:45H and arrives at Jaisalmer (JSM) at 05:30H. 

• LEELAN EXP (12467) departs daily from Jaisalmer (JSM) at 00:30H and arrives at Jaipur (JP) at 13:15H. 

Our (honest) review of taking the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer

We have made the journey to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan more than six times in the last few years.  And if that sounds like a lot; it is. We really rate Jaisalmer and have visited as travellers ourselves and it holds a special place in our India Group Trips too. 

In the winter months (and the tourist season) from October to March we have flown with SpiceJet or Indigo from Delhi to Jaisalmer. 

However flights to Jaisalmer do not operate all year round.  

Instead the next best option to get to Jaisalmer is by train. 

Is it a different train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer?

The Ranikhet EXP and Shalimar EXP trains above stops in Jodhpur.  

The journey from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur by train is around six hours.  

However the route by train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer on the Leelan EXP stops alternately in Bikaner instead of taking the slightly southern route to through Jodhpur.  

Buying tickets for the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer (the first hurdle)

Once you have decided on which train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer, the next step is tickets. 

Because trains in India get booked in advance I recommend buying tickets online before you travel.  (Preferably before you arrive in the country). Alternatively if you have a travel agent or booking contact in India it might be easier to book through them ahead of time.  

Otherwise there are three options for you to book and buy tickets for the train to Jaisalmer: 

• Go to a railway station (in Delhi) and book in person when you arrive
• Book online directly from Indian Railways at the IRCTC websitewww.irctc.co.in
• Book online through third party 12GoAsia. 

Because there aren’t a huge amount of options for train travel from Jaipur to Jaisalmer, I recommend booking online through ticketing agency 12go.asia. You can type in the different options for dates, days and classes of travel and pay by credit card. 

To use the IRCTC website you will need a VPN to book train tickets from outside of India.  And there is the added challenge of needing a local Indian contact phone number (which most often defeats the purpose of even using a VPN while out of the country).  

But the website is useful to see exactly when and which days there are tickets available for the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer and from Jodhpur or Bikaner to Jaisalmer. 

How long is the train from Jaisalmer to Jaipur? 

Traveling from Jaipur to Jaisalmer by train takes between 12 – 15 hours.  And as with all train travel in India it does pay to allow at least a buffer of a few hours in case of delays.  

The train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer should take around 6 – 7 hours. 

Which train should I book?

We have travelled by train between Jaipur and Jaisalmer on each of the Shalimar, Leelan and Ranikhet Express trains. 

• On our most recent journey by train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer we travelled on the LEELAN EXP (12647).  

Are there different classes of train travel from Jaipur to Jaisalmer?

Yes.  And this is an important factor when deciding which train to take from Jaipur to Jaisalmer. 

• There are 8 main classes of train travel in India. 

The different classes of travel suit different options of distances and comfort (and adventure!) around India.  

These are the classes listed below in descending order according of price per fare. 

• First Class (1A)
• Second AC / 2-Tier AC (2A)
• Third AC / 3-Tier AC (3A)
• AC Executive chair class (EC)
• Seated AC / AC Chair Car (CC)
• Sleeper Class (SL)
• General / Second Class Seats (2S, II)
• Unreserved General Class (UR)

However, not all of these classes are available on every train.  

Of the three trains listed above between Jaipur and Jaisalmer only two of them operate with 1^st and/or 2^nd Class (1A, 2A) travel. 

• The LEELAN EXP (12467) only operates with Sleeper Class and Third Class overnight options. 

About the classes of travel on the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer 

• RANIKHET EXP: 1A, 2A, 3A, SL
• SHALIMAR EXP: 1A, 2A, 3A, SL
• LEELAN EXP: 3A, SL

We most recently travelled from Jaipur to Jaisalmer in Third Class (3A) on the LEELAN EXP.  

We have also made the same journey on the RANIKHET EXP in First Class AC (1A).   And we have made the return journey by train all the way from Delhi to Jaisalmer on both the SHALIMAR EXP and the RANIKHET EXP in First Class (1A) and Second Class AC (2A). (We have travelled on lots of different trains in India!). 

How much does it cost to get from Jaipur to Jaisalmer by train? 

Fares vary for train travel in India depending on class and distance.  Train ticket prices are also higher when booking through a third party (like 12GoAsia).  

Booking the SHALIMAR EXP (14645) from Jaisalmer (JSM) to Jaipur (JP) is quoted on 12GoAsia in USD: 

• First Class (1A): $35 USD 
• 2-Tier AC (2A): $22 USD
• 3-Tier AC (3A): $17 USD

Third Class (3A) tickets on the LEELAN EXP cost around $14 USD. 

Departing by train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer 

There is only one main train station in Jaipur which makes it easier to be sure you are in fact at the correct departing station: 

• Jaipur Junction Railway Station (JSM)

RANHIKET EXP, LEELAN EXP and SHALIMAR EXP all depart from Jaipur Junction Railway Station (JP). 

Jaisalmer is the end of the line so this is one station stop you do not have to worry about being speedy to disembark.  

Jaipur Junction Railway Station

Jaipur Station is always a bustling hive of colour and activity.  

There is a Premium Waiting Lounge if you arrive early and have time to wait.  It costs 100 INR ($1 USD) for up to two hours.  Or there is a First and Second Class AC Waiting Area with toilets that doesn’t cost anything (and has good air conditioning). 

And you likely will recognise the beautiful murals in the open waiting area from the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel movie.  It is a beautifully decorated train staion.  There are colourful murals all around the waiting areas and platforms.  

There are shops selling snacks and cold drinks.  And even a few(!) other unique signs to look out for to keep you entertained (amused?) while you wait for your train. 

Taking the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer – about the journey 

It is a good idea to depart from your accommodation at least 60 minutes prior to departure for your train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer.  

Jaipur is a busy railway station. Even if you are traveling on the LEELAN EXP which originates from Jaipur and is unlikely to be full, the trains are huge and can carry a lot of passengers.  It is much more relaxing to be early and ready to board than panicking on the platform! 

From Jaisalmer (anywhere nearby the Fort) to the Jaisalmer Railway Station it only takes around 15 minutes.  

We are grateful for the amazing staff at Wanderlust Guesthouse in Jaisalmer (see below if you are wondering where to stay in Jaisalmer!) who offer a great pick up service from the train station regardless of arrival or departure time to and from Jaisalmer.  

Boarding the train to Jaisalmer

We had booked Third Class (3A) tickets on the LEELAN EXP from Jaipur.  

We use the IRTC app to check our carriage and cabin or bunk numbers assigned to our ticket. For our Third Class (3A) ticket this time the carriage number was B1.  

The number of the carriage is displayed on the digital sign above the platform as well as on the side of the train carriage itself. 

We found our carriage (it’s useful to look ahead at the IRCTC app) and boarded to find the allotted 4x berths. 

Sorting our bunks and bedding (and meeting the carriage attendant)

Each carriage and class are staffed by a railway attendant and likely already there should be a package inside your cabin or above your bunks with sheets, pillowcases and a small towel.  

We had a friendly carriage attendant on the LEELAN EXP called Vinayak this time. 

Are meals included in the ticket price? 

Unfortunately, on each of these trains from Jaipur to Jaisalmer there are no meals included in the ticket price. 

On the LEELAN EXP we departed from Jaipur at 16:35H and shortly after pulling out of station someone will come around asking if you would like to book dinner.  A vegetarian meal costs 150 INR ($1.50 USD) and includes rice, dahl, paneer and some roti.  

I admit we only ordered one this time (a little nervously) and it turned out to be very fresh and well presented.  We enjoyed the dahl and paneer.  And we enjoyed several cups of chai from the ever-present chai wala moving up and down the carriages. 

Is food available on the train from Jaisalmer to Jaipur? 

Depending on which class you travel on there are vendors that board the train at different stations.  India Railways also has staff that move up and down the entire train selling chai and coffee, snacks and taking orders for breakfast, lunch, or dinner (depending on the time of day).  

In our honest opinion, the biggest downside of travel in First Class (1A) is that there are generally less vendors that walk through the First-Class carriage.  This is mainly because in First Class (1A) each cabin has a lockable door, and vendors can’t be seen.  

In the Second and Third Class (2A + 3A) carriages there is a steadier stream of food and drinks vendors, and it is part of the India train experience…

Is it safe to take the overnight train in India? 

We have always felt safe taking the overnight trains in India.  After all, millions of passengers travel overnight every day around the country.  

The biggest difference in safety (of yourself and possessions) in First Class (1A) is that your cabin has a lockable door.  

Traveling in Second Class (2A) your bunk area includes 4x berths that are separated from the main carriage corridor by a curtain. 

Traveling in Third Class (3A) on the LEELAN EXP there is no curtain or lock.

Take care of your belongings.  We always sleep wearing our clothes and with our passports, phone and wallets in a wearable bag (or under our head).  And we lock our bags with a small padlock and carabiner clip. 

Charging devices on the train 

Even in Third Class (3A) there are charging points (that even work) on the LEELAN EXP. 

Toilets on the train from Jaipur to Jaisalmer

Albeit the all-time least favourite topic of train travel in India is the toilets.  So, I’ll keep it short.  But the gist of things is; don’t panic. 

The toilets on the train are functional.  The journey is less than 15 hours.  

And if you are travelling by train in either First or Second Class (1A, 2A) there will be a squat toilet and a western toilet in your train carriage.  You will be fine…

Arriving in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Railway Station (JSM) is the end of the line for each of the trains coming from Jaipur or in fact any direction of Rajasthan.  So, there is less of a panic to know how long you have to disembark when you get off. 

The station terminal building is under construction currently so there is no waiting area or (visible) toilets available. 

There isn’t a whole lot of other warning that you are approaching your final destination of the journey.  But you can set the alarm on the IRTC app to warn you 5KM ahead of Jaisalmer that you will be arriving soon.   

The trains stop in Jaisalmer for a while to reset and refill so you don’t need to panic. 

Disembark with confidence!  You have completed your train journey from Jaipur to Jaisalmer. 

Where to stay in Jaipur and Jaisalmer

Finding where to stay in many of India’s cities is something like finding a needle in a haystack!  But after our fourth trip to India for four months in 2023 we have narrowed it down to our favorites that we can truly recommend…

• Jaisalmer: The Wanderlust Guesthouse 
  AMAZING guest-house! We love staying here and can highly recommend. Great rooms; rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort; awesome camel safaris! This is our favourite place to stay in India.

• Jaipur: Jaipur Haveli
  A friendly family run accommodation right in the centre of Jaipur (walking distance to Hawa Mahal) that has been in the family for five generations! Currently four generations live onsite in the 200 year old traditional Haveli.  It is a stunning place to stay with meals that can be highly recommended too. 

More about travel planning for India and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

• Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
• Skyscanner – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
• GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
• SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
• World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before riding those trains in India!

Read more from travel in South Asia

• Taking an overnight train in Pakistan from Islamabad to Karachi. 
• How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
• Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan. 
• Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan. 
• Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
• How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
• Our complete packing list for travel in India.