Staying With A Nomadic Family At Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan.

Setting out from Bishkek headed for remote Song Kol Lake in Kyrgyzstan with the kids had us seriously wondering – are we officially we crazy?!

Aside from perhaps the quick op-shop stop to prepare us for waking up in a yurt surrounded by a fresh snowfall on the mountains. Nothing could have readied us for the experience of staying with the nomadic families at Song Kol Lake and getting a glimpse into remote Kyrgyz life.

The experience took us out of range, altitude, familiar climate AND comfort zones.

Ultimately, the perfect reminder of how travel challenges us, and changes us.

About Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Song Kol is an alpine lake in northern Naryn Province, Kyrgyzstan.

It lies at an altitude of 3016m above sea level meaning it literally freezes over in winter.

The roads are closed and the herders vacate the area for the season.

But in summer, Song Kol Lake has been the choice of nomadic families as their jailoo, or summer pastures, for centuries.

Arriving to Song Kol Lake

As soon as you drive up over the Kalmyk Ashuu Pass to reach the shore of Song Kol you can see yurts dotting the shore line in little clusters. Families have set up here this way for generations.

Now, even though some of the camps are now set up purely for tourists, there are areas of herders living the same way for the summer as they always have.

We had two nights at Song Kol Lake and it was the most memorable part of Kyrgyzstan for us.

The experience felt uninterrupted and so far removed from modern day life.

We all found a new love for the smell of a yurt-fire burning, and left with a new-found awe for such an incredible lifestyle.

Things To Do at Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Experiencing nomadic herder life in Kyrgyzstan is one of our best travel experiences to date. There is plenty to do and lots to learn.

If you get the opportunity to add Song Kol Lake to your itinerary for Kyrgyzstan, do.

1. Horse Riding – Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan has such a strong horse culture.

Although we didn’t know very much else about the country on arriving, we were looking forward to horse riding being a part of the Kyrgyz experience.

Getting to Song Kol Lake and living out that dream felt incredible.

It feels great to be horse riding on a normal day, but riding a horse on the shoreline of a lake in Kyrgyzstan definitely takes the cake.

Oscar had been looking forward to horse riding for weeks, and wanted a horse that could ‘go really fast!’. He hopped on happily by himself, and rode back from the lake.

Harry wasn’t quite so keen for a speedy choice, but the young boys paired them each thoughtfully. They each had turns along and they both had a go in front of the young nomad boys as well.

2. Share Meals in the Family Tent – Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Each yurt camp at Song Kul Lake is set up similarly, in that a curved line of yurts surround a central tent that is the main communal area.

Attached to the communal tent is the family kitchen. It’s here that they prepare everything for each mealtime.

Given that store-bought resources are scarce being hours from town, we were really impressed with what they made.

We all especially loved the afternoon tea times with freshly made stove top bread, jams, and homemade butter.

3. Join In Daily Routine – Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Experiencing the nomadic lifestyle at Song Kol Lake with kids definitely heightened versions of ‘worldschooling’!

We watched the kids learn and process all kinds of things that are just normal parts of nomad life.

Harry followed the older boys with the task of collecting cow poo in a bucket that will be fuel for the yurt fire. There are no trees at this height above sea level – definitely a lot of learning going on there!

And, you can trust me on this one. When its zero degrees outside, the smell of a yurt fire burning cow shit is the best smell in the world!

5. Hike or Wander – Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

If you aren’t exploring on horse back, then the best thing to do at Song Kol Lake is to explore by wandering around on foot.

The shore line is vast and stretches back to the rise of the Tien Shen mountains around the lake.

Literally everywhere you walk has a beautiful vista.

Perhaps, because apart from the iconic yurts on the pasture, it really is so untouched. And it feels extreme just being in such a remote space and at such altitude as well.

• Note: Make the most of the sunshine during the daytime to explore. As soon as the sun dips down over the hills and the wind gets up it is pretty chilly to be out exploring. It was early September when we were there.

6. Experience Kyrgyz Herder Lifestyle

You can’t seriously arrive at Song Kol Lake and not embrace the lifestyle.

It couldn’t really be much further from life at home in that no matter what the family were doing – even tending to daily jobs – it was fascinating.

We spent the best part of the morning learning how they make Kumyz (fermented mares milk) and having a go churning the cows milk and making it into butter.

In the evenings you can see the herders arrive back for the day.

Between them they bring the goats and cows back in for the night and round them up into the makeshift pen to do a headcount.

Harry and Oscar even tried to join in on the head count and chase a few goats back in. Boy, you have to be seriously quick!

7. Downtime in the Yurt – Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

It is still technically summer in early September, but it is not always the weather for exploring outside.

But downtime is just as important in our travels, and doing it in a yurt makes it that much cooler.

We felt very grateful for the roaring yurt fire inside by the late afternoon.

And also pleased with the lego we had packed and our small picking of warm clothes that we had carried the whole way, ‘just in case’ – for moments like these – with below-zero temperatures outside, and the last of the battery reserves…

Booking a Trip to Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

We booked our trip to the lake as part of a driver-tour through Kyrgyz Tourism and were blown away by the service and communication.

Aisha handled all my emails and tailor made a package for us that really suited us to travel with the kids. She has children as well and definitely understood!

We didn’t want a standard package tour. But instead wanted to book a local driver who would stay with us for the duration of trip around Kyrgyzstan.

And, after Kyrgyzstan, to drive us over the border into Kazakhstan and all the way to Almaty…

Even this wasn’t too much to ask, and Aisha arranged the driver Vitali for us who we instantly connected with (despite the language barrier).

Spending ten days with someone makes it definitely important to be on the same page, and we couldn’t have asked for a better match than driver Vitali.

Because of the flexibility of our tour we had a few days stopover in his hometown of Karakol. Which meant not only could he catch up with his family while we had some time to explore alone, but we ended up meeting his family and spent a day out with him and his son.

Getting There

Getting from Bishkek to Song Kol Lake with kids required a bit more planning.

It would take at least five to six hours straight driving.

You can make the journey from Bishkek in stages but you need to depart for the lake via Kochor.

Bishkek to Kochkor

From Bishkek to Kochkor there are regular minivans and shared taxis; the journey takes about 3 hours.

Kochkor to Song Kol Lake

From Kochor, the drive to Song Kol is about another three hours and you will need to arrange your own private transport for this part.

It is possible to book a car through one of the CBT (Community Based Tourism) offices in either Naryn or Kochor. But I would recommend booking ahead by email.

From Kochor, driving up over the Kalmyk-Ashuu Pass before dipping back down to reach the shore of Song-Kul Lake takes you up over 3446m into mountainscape that makes you feel small!

What To Pack for Song Kol Lake

You do need to plan ahead and be prepared for the weather and remoteness of Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan.

Song Kol Lake is breathtakingly beautiful, but it’s also high-altitude, remote, and notoriously moody. One minute you’re enjoying a sunny Kyrgyz afternoon, and the next, you’re wondering why you didn’t pack a parka in July.

Planning ahead is the difference between a magical yurt stay and a very long, shivering night.

Here is what you need to survive (and enjoy) the wilderness.

Warm Clothes

It sounds obvious, but the cold here is deceptive. 

If you’ve been travelling through the ‘Stans in summer—perhaps roasting on a 43°C train in Uzbekistan—your brain might not be in winter mode.

But – it regularly drops below freezing overnight. Even in the height of summer, waking up to a fresh dusting of snow on the peaks is common.

While the wood stoves inside the yurts are literal lifesavers, they don’t burn all night.

• Tip: If you’re under-equipped, stop at a second-hand shop (op shop) in Kochkor or Naryn before you head up. Grab a heavy wool sweater or an extra jacket—you won’t regret it.

Logistics & Self-Sufficiency

The lake is a three-hour drive from the nearest ATM, so you need to be your own bank and utility provider – plus provider of toilet paper! 

Bring with you: 

• Cash: There are no card readers in a yurt. Bring enough for your stay, tips, and horse rentals.
• Water: Bring bottled water and pack the empty bottles back out. If you’re on a tour, double-check if they provide it.
• Toilet Paper: Facilities are rustic (BASIC): and usually consisting of a hole in the ground dug for the season. Bring your own rolls and hand sanitizer.
• Snacks: Yurt families are incredible cooks, but if you have dietary restrictions or picky kids, stock up on trail mix and granola bars in town.

A Comfort Kit

There are also a few traveller comforts that you will be thankful to have with you:

• Sun Protection: The high-altitude sun is brutal. Bring high-SPF sunscreen and sunglasses.
• Power Bank: Electricity is limited (often solar-powered and reserved for lights). Don’t rely on finding a wall outlet for your phone.
• Slip-on Shoes: You’ll be taking your shoes off every time you enter the yurt. Crocs or sturdy slippers make the frequent “in-and-out” much easier.

Our Experience of Song Kol Lake, Kyrgyzstan

Stepping in to any new country and culture requires stepping out of your comfort zone.

As soon as you set foot you are thrown in to a whole new world of different languages, tastes, sights, sounds and people. 

But I love the idea of that being one of travels’ most loveable challenges, and part of the reason we set out; to experience that with the boys.

Because, even at a young age they can understand that there are other ways of living, being, and behaving; and that our way in the world is not the only way.

It’s hard to describe the emotions we felt on leaving.

I’m deeming the experience of Song Kol Lake with kids beyond measurable in terms of travel memories.

Getting a glimpse into nomadic herder life in Kyrgyzstan was one of those unforgettable experiences in life for which we will always be grateful to have shared.

If you get the chance and can visit Kyrgyzstan; grab it with both hands.

Read More About Travel in Central Asia

• What Makes Silk Road Flatbreads So Fabled? 
• Uzbekistan With Kids: Travel Guide. 
• Border Crossing: Kyrgyzstan to Keten, Kazakhstan.
• Kazakhstan With Kids: Completing A Dream Circuit Of ‘Stans.
• 5 Reasons We Loved Kyrgyzstan.
• Kyrgyz’ What? Travel Guide To Kyrgyzstan With Kids. 
• Exploring Khiva, Uzbekistan.
• Visiting The Aral Sea, Uzbekistan.
• ‘Vodka, Plov And Non’: 12 Best Uzbek Food Experiences.

Useful Links For Travel in Kyrgyzstan & Beyond

These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel. 

• Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It is easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
• 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere online. 
• Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
• GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
• SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
• World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have insurance before planning that trip to Song Kol Lake!