Away With The Steiners

10 Things To Do In Ajmer; And Why I’ll Never Visit Again. 

Would you read a blog about the things to do in Ajmer if I said I wouldn’t visit again?

Well, possibly. I mean, I probably will.  

We love India and embrace its chaos and colour.  But this particular trip – our sixth time to Rajasthan as a family – hit differently.  

It started with a pigeon in our hotel bedroom.  Then with some of the sites of Ajmer in between it ended with a post-monsoon hospital stay in New Delhi.  

So here we go.  

All the things to do in Ajmer and sites to see in this often overlooked small Rajasthani city.  

Plus, some very honest feedback about why the things to do in Ajmer don’t necessarily outweigh the challenge of actually navigating the crevices of this unlikely and overpacked pilgrimage Mecca…

So, What Was it About Ajmer? 

I’m not one for penning fixed negative opinions on a positive geared travel blog.  

But writing now before I’ve left Ajmer and just survived (narrowly) a rickshaw through unbeatably ram-packed body-to-body crevices for streets outside the Dargah in the monsoon has me already confident in the title of this blog.  

Albeit we visited in monsoon season. Plus it is our sixth trip to India as a family.  

We love Rajasthan by the way.  But something about Ajmer and the things to do – or lack of – had us missing the glorious sunshine and colours of Jaisalmer.  

We miss the colours of Jodhpur.  And the friendly pink-hued markets and palaces of Jaipur. 

This trip was meant to be a diversion from Goa in the height of monsoon season.  There’s not everything open at this time of year in the south and tropical viruses are rife.   

So, we chose Ajmer, Pushkar and Udaipur as a more northern and calmer choice away from the warnings of wet weather and viruses.  

Things to do in Ajmer visiting the mosque.
Sorry, Ajmer.

A Little Bit About Ajmer, Rajasthan 

Ajmer is understated.  I’ll give it that.  It is a bustling city in the state of Rajasthan, India.  

It’s a small (comparatively) city by Indian standards with a population of just 800,000. It isn’t on the main tourist trail as with the other Rajasthani cities of Jaipur, Jodhpur or Jaisalmer.  

Rather it is unabashedly a huge site of pilgrimage.  

Most of the things to do in Ajmer are cultural sights as the city is an important pilgrimage destination for Jains, Muslims and Hindus. 

But little did we know the congestion, crowds and hygiene standards of Ajmer on our visit would really challenge even our travel standards after years of galivanting all over India.   

Read on and I’ll tell you about the good and bad. 

Why Does Anyone Visit Ajmer? 

The main thing to do in Ajmer is a visit to the 13th century Shrine of Sufi Saint Moinuddin Chishti.  

Chishti was unanimously regarded as a great saint after his passing. The tomb (dargah) of Chishti became a deeply venerated site following the preacher’s death in 1236AD.

Mughal Emperor Akbar visited the shrine many times in pilgrimage and even once with his Hindu wife to commemorate the memory of the saint.  

It has since then become the most holy site of pilgrimage for Muslims in the whole of India. 

But as a non-Muslim visitor in India, it’s only fair to ask the question of what is there to see in Ajmer.  

The truth is the main reason for visiting Ajmer as a traveller is the proximity to the neighbouring small city of Pushkar. 

Pushkar is less than 15km by road and only takes 30 minutes to go between the two. But Pushkar does not have a Railway Station and so the only chance of connecting to Pushkar by rail in Rajasthan is to arrive in Ajmer first. 

So, without further ado (and without wishing to offend the questionable reasons for visiting Ajmer itself) let’s talk about Ajmer first.  

We did visit. Some sites we even visited twice.  

Let’s talk about Ajmer and why (or is it?) it is worth visiting.

Best Time To Visit Ajmer

Ajmer is located within the vast desert state of Rajasthan. But don’t let the ‘desert’ label fool you. It is hard to believe, but this arid region is heavily affected by India’s wet monsoon season — a lesson we learned the hard way!

While we deliberately avoided the coast during the monsoon, we mistakenly assumed the desert would stay dry. We arrived in August, just days after the city had experienced severe flooding.

It’s hard to believe this desert state does in fact become affected and part of India’s wet monsoon season. (We certainly didn’t believe it!). But it does!

What is the Best Time to Visit?

To see Ajmer at its best, aim for the winter months between October and March. This is the peak season for most of Rajasthan, offering much more comfortable conditions for exploring.

Rain, rain go away. Ajmer is better on a sunny day.

Things To Do in Ajmer 

Even if you are only passing through Ajmer for the convenience of the train station, you might have time to explore and be wondering what is worth seeing. 

Here is what we rate as 10 of the Best Things To Do in Ajmer without need for a day tour or excursion out of the city.

1. Ajmer Sharif Dargah: The Shrine of Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti 

The primary reason Ajmer is such a significant pilgrimage destination is the Ajmer Sharif Dargah. A Dargah is a sacred shrine built over the grave of a revered religious figure—in this case, the world-renowned Sufi saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti.

Originally from Persia, the saint arrived in Ajmer in 1192 and remained until his death in 1236. Today, this site is considered one of the holiest places in Islam and stands as the most visited Sufi shrine in India.

The history of the Dargah is deeply intertwined with the Mughal dynasty, the same emperors responsible for India’s most famous landmarks:

Because of its historical and spiritual weight, the shrine attracts millions of devotees and travelers from all faiths every year.

Welcome to the most visited Sufi shrine in India.
We definitely didn’t know just how famous the dargah of Sufi saint Khwaja Muin-ud-din Chishti is.

Visiting the Ajmer Sharif Dargah

The street leading to the Dargah is famous for its vibrant food stalls, traditional crafts, and intricate gota embroidery. However, visiting as a tourist is an intense experience that requires a bit of mental preparation.

The narrow lanes approaching the shrine and Masjid are ram-jammed with people.

What to Expect

As one of the country’s most revered pilgrimage sites, the area is perpetually crowded, with a constant flow of devotees moving toward the entrance.

Plus it didn’t help it had been raining heavily the night before and the streets were sludge and aflush with rubbish. Albeit there was the occasional whiff of Kachori or something frying.  

A Word of Caution: If you struggle with claustrophobia or are uncomfortable in extremely dense crowds, this may be a difficult visit. The crevice-like streets are packed shoulder-to-shoulder, and even in these pedestrian-heavy alleys, you’ll occasionally have to dodge a motorbike or auto-rickshaw squeezing through the gap.

But despite the chaos and the filth underfoot, the Dargah and the nearby Jhopra Mosque are the historic heart of Ajmer. Even though I told myself I wouldn’t go back, we actually ended up visiting twice. It is the most iconic thing to do in the city, and it’s hard to say you’ve truly seen Ajmer without witnessing the energy of this historic site.

It doesn’t cost to enter but you will need to cover your head to enter the Ajmeri Dargah.

2. Akbari Masjid: Akbari Mosque in Ajmer Sharif Dargah 

This is part of the famous Dargah too.  

The main entrance is through the Nizam Gate at the front of the Dargah. Then just inside, is the recognisable green and white mosque, Akbari Masjid

The mosque was constructed in 1571 and is now an Arabic and Persian school for religious education. 

The iconic green and white of Akbari Masjid just inside Nazim Gate.
Men taking ablutions inside the Dargah.

3. The Historic Gates of Ajmer Sharif Dargah

If you have successfully navigated the labyrinth of alleyways and the dense crowds to reach the Dargah, there are three significant historic gates you should look out for within the complex:

Each of these gates represents a different era of the shrine’s expansion and offers a brief moment of architectural beauty amidst the bustle of the pilgrimage site.

The incredible Nizam Gate at the entrance to Ajmer Sharif Dargah.
Join the crowds heading for the illustrious Nizam Gate.

4. Adhai Din Ka Jhonpra 

Located just beyond the Dargah on the outskirts of the city lie the ruins of Adhai Din Ka Jhonpra. Built in 1153 AD, this is one of the oldest mosques in India and is a stunning example of early Indo-Islamic architecture, characterized by its rows of intricately carved pillars.

This is one of the most well-known things to do in Ajmer. Though – continuing the honest streak here – seeing its current condition was quite disheartening. Perhaps the recent heavy rains made the situation feel worse, but the lack of maintenance and the amount of litter on the grounds felt like a disservice to such a majestic monument.

However, despite the lack of upkeep, the mosque is an essential stop if you have even a single day in Ajmer. Its history and craftsmanship are undeniable, even in their weathered state.

Tip: The mosque is open daily from dawn to dusk, and there is no entrance fee.

How’s that for a mosque built in the 12th century?!
Some of the incredibly carved pillars inside Adhai-di-ka-Jhonpra mosque.

5. Delhi Gate (in Ajmer) 

Delhi Gate is one of the lesser listed but much used historic sites in Ajmer. The familiarly named gate is a massive arched gateway leading towards Dargah Sharif.  

It was constructed in 1571 AD by Mughal Emperor Akbar. 

There is a small (compatibly) pillared hall on the right-hand side of the gate which was historically used by guards. 

Today the gateway is still part of the main pilgrimage route for pedestrians heading to Dargah Sharif. 

The ever-busy Delhi gate proudly standing on the main pedestrian route to Ajmeri Sharif Dargah.

6. Ana Sagar Lake and the Baradari Pavillions

While the Dargah is undoubtedly Ajmer’s centrepiece, the massive, man-made Ana Sagar Lake is well worth a visit for its sheer scale and scenic views.

From what we read, it is a popular spot for locals and travellers alike, and during the summer months, it becomes incredibly lively with boat trips and excursions to the small island in the centre. However, it wasn’t all that busy when we visited.

We spent some time wandering along the waterfront promenade and exploring the nearby parks.

A few things to look out for include:

Further around the lake front is an enclosed park and the waterfront marble pavilions of Anasagar Baradari. 

I promised animal statues on the Ana Sagar Lake promenade right?
The promenade along Ana Sagar Lake is another of those sites to see that would be undoubtedly better in the sunshine.

7. Jain Temple: Soni Ji Ki Nasiyan (Red) Temple 

This marvellous Jain Temple is one of the major monuments and things to do in Ajmer.  

The temple was built in 1865 and is decorated inside with gold, silver and precious stones as well as intricate diorama depicting the Jain concept of the ancient world. 

If you haven’t yet visited a Jain Temple in India, then this one is an incredible example of typical Jain style architecture complete with sculptures of Jain scholars. 

8. Ajmer Fort and Government Museum: Things To Do in Ajmer 

The historical Ajmer Fort is right in the centre of the old city and today houses the Ajmer Government Museum.   

The fort is popularly called Akbari Fort as it was constructed by Mughal Emperor Akbar to honour the Sufi Saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chisti

I’m not going to lie in that we didn’t go inside the museum.  

We visited the fort exterior to check it out. But in the rain and closing in weather, and challenges of finding somewhere new to stay in Ajmer, we weren’t in a museum mood. 

It was once the residence of Prince Salim, the son of the Emperor Akbar, and like many of India’s government museums it presently houses a collection of Mughal and Rajput armoury and sculptures.

Ajmer Fort and the Government Museum of Ajmer.

9. Dargah Bazar / Ajmer Muslim Quarter 

Dargah Bazar and the shopping streets spilling out from Ajmer Sharif Dargah are a maze of bustle and all things Indian Bazar.  

The main market starts from right outside the shrine stretching in both directions towards the railway station and back to the Jhonpra Masjid.  

This part of the market is stocked with flowers, incense and candles and flower chadars (sheets) for offerings at prayer in the shrine. Then behind the masjid are rows of small nooks and cranny-like restaurants and stalls.  

There is Chai and Kachori and other snacks unidentifiable to the passing tourist but with queues and crowds that suggest well otherwise. 

Gulab Jaman and a friendly vendor getting ready for the day in Dargah Bazar, Ajmer.
It’s busy. Just trust me.
Incredible colours, scents and sounds from all directions in the very busy Dargah Bazar.

10. Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower

It’s hard to miss the large Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower.  

If you are arriving in Ajmer by train the clock tower is just beyond the main entrance to Ajmer Junction Railway Station.  

It is one of the historical landmarks of Ajmer dating back to the time of British rule. This landmark was erected in the late 19th Century to commemorate Queen Victoria’s 60-Year Diamond Jubilee. 

Where to Eat: Best Restaurants and Cafes in Ajmer

This is technically not the usual for a list of Things To Do in Ajmer. But – trust me – finding a clean, safe, and comfortable place to eat is essential in Ajmer. Especially if you have a few hours to kill before a train or need a break from the intense city streets.

Mango Masala Restaurant & Café

We discovered Mango Masala, and it is easily the best place we found in the city.

Whether you are looking for a full meal or just a reliable spot to wait for your departure, this is the place to go.

The restaurant opens at 9:00 AM daily and features two separate, clean dining areas. It’s a great “safe haven” if you’re feeling overwhelmed by the crowds outside.

They serve good coffee in the morning. (Because let me assure you we weren’t about to trust the Pigeon-Room Hotel for their included breakfast when they didn’t even have a restaurant onsite!). Plus they even have WIFI. 

If you have spare time between sightseeing or are simply waiting for your train at the nearby station, Mango Masala is the perfect spot to recharge.

Chole Bature is always a favourite for breakfast, lunch or dinner in our family.
Dinner at Mango Masala in Ajmer.

Getting TO Ajmer: How To Get to Ajmer

Ajmer Junction is a busy railway hub that serves as a vital link between the major cities of Rajasthan and the nearby spiritual town of Pushkar.

Because there is no train station in Pushkar itself, almost everyone traveling there by rail will use Ajmer Junction as their gateway. Then from the station, it is just a short bus or taxi ride over the mountain to reach Pushkar.

It is easy to get a direct Chair Class train from Udaipur to Ajmer and onwards from Ajmer to Jaipur.  

Accommodation in Ajmer: A Cautionary Tale

Finding the right place to stay in Ajmer can be a challenge, and as seasoned travellers – believe me – we have a very specific recommendation on where not to stay.

After five and a half years of full-time travel, we consider ourselves pretty flexible. But our experience in Ajmer tested those limits.

We arrived after dark on the train from Udaipur, navigating through streets that were sodden with mud and rubbish from recent flooding. Our first impressions of the hotel we had picked online were grim, to say the least.

We were doubtful on even arriving to the hotel and sent Gavin up to check out the room first.  

The “Pigeon Room” Incident

The room initially seemed passable, but as we settled in, we realised an entire pane of glass was missing from an upper window facing the street. When we called for help, a staff member arrived and simply tried to tape a piece of discarded cardboard over the gap — cardboard that was, unfortunately, covered in pigeon shit.

The guy sort of shrugged and as he taped it up we sat in some disbelief, wondering internally whether we were about to head out on the streets of Ajmer in the dark to find a new home for the night.  

That was until a pigeon flew out of the corner of the room heading for the now open window! 

We requested an immediate room change, insisted on fresh sheets for all beds, and carefully inspected every window before unpacking. Then so began our two days in Ajmer in the post-flood weekend of the monsoon. 

Lessons Learned in Ajmer

While we won’t name the specific hotel to avoid being overly harsh, I do have a few tips to avoid a similar fate.

Where To Otherwise Stay in India

Pigeons aside there are some great places to stay in India.  

These are the hotels and accommodation we use regularly on our travels in India and that we can recommend for your trip. 

Inside our room at Wanderlust Guesthouse in Jaisalmer.
The beautiful from of Jaipur Haveli in the heart of the Pink City.

Read More About Travel in India

Useful Links Planning Travel in India & Beyond

These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel. 

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