Away With The Steiners

Travel In Bangladesh: A Complete Travel Guide For Bangladesh.

Sarah Steiner

Bangladeshi care and hospitality is outstanding. At the time of writing this we haven’t even left Bangladesh and already I am feeling a pang of sadness knowing we will move on soon. If you are thinking about travel in Bangladesh and wondering whether to take the leap and book that trip or not…

Book it now.

Travel in Bangladesh is unique.  It’s not easy nor a mainstream destination to travel.  But if getting off the beaten track is the kind of travel you like, that is exactly what makes Bangladesh so special. 

Here is our complete travel guide for Bangladesh including all of the details of where we stayed in each city, how to get around Bangladesh, how to (and whether to) travel in Bangladesh with kids and a whole bunch of other tips to make your Bangladesh adventure as smooth as possible… 

About Bangladesh; first just quickly

How to travel in Bangladesh travel guide.
Traffic situation at Bongo Bazar, Dhaka.

And a little bit of history about Bangladesh 

On our first day out in Dhaka we learnt some very interesting history about Bangladesh.  

Our guide told us that his grandfather was born in India; his father was born in Pakistan; and he was born in Bangladesh.  But they were all born in the same village…

Until 1947, Bangladesh was part of India.  The region that is now marked out as the country of Bangladesh was known as ‘East Bengal’. 

In 1947 India gained independence from British colonial rule and the sub-continent was partitioned into India, Pakistan and Bangladesh.  The partition led to the largest migration crisis in history with over 14 million people becoming refugees.  Many Hindu families moved from Pakistan to India and Muslims from India to Pakistan. 

Bangladesh was known at this time as ‘East Pakistan’ and was governed from Islamabad (in ‘West Pakistan’) – something that was unpopular with many Bangladeshis and ultimately spurred the struggle for Bengali rights. 

In 1971 Bangladesh (with the support of India) fought Pakistan for independence in what was known as the Bangladesh Liberation War and became the independent country that is Bangladesh today. 

Beautiful Bangladesh.

Best time to visit Bangladesh

The best time visit Bangladesh is during the ‘cool season’ (effectively considered winter in Bangladesh) from November to February.  Days are warm averaging a comfortable 25°C and nights are cooler. 

From March onwards the days get rapidly hotter and monsoon generally arrives sometime in June.  

But hey; we ignored the suggested best time to visit Bangladesh and travelled for a month during May with a few (welcomed) afternoon rain showers and otherwise great (hot) weather. 

Visas

Bangladesh requires all foreigners to obtain permission, specifically a visa, to enter its territory unless exempted.  Visas for Bangladesh are issued by Bangladesh diplomatic missions located throughout the world.  Or, if application, on arrival in Bangladesh.

The following countries are specifically listed as countries whose citizens may obtain Bangladesh visa on arrival for the purpose of tourism:

In addition, citizens of the following countries are known to require a visa:

The Visa On Arrival fee must be paid only in cash in US dollars or Euros when entering Bangladesh.   And the cost per person is $51 USD or €51 EUR, with all taxes included. 

Standard tourism visas (and VOAs) are single-entry for 30 days.   

However it can be extended for an additional 30 days. Applicants can apply for the extension of the Visa On Arrival up to a week before visa expiry but not sooner. Visa extensions are available at the Department of Immigration and Passports located in Shere-E-Bangla Nagar, West Agargaon, Dhaka City.

A misty (smoggy?) and warm morning at Kawran Bazar, Dhaka.

Currency and cash in Bangladesh

Bangladeshi Taka (BDT) is the currency of Bangladesh.  

There are banknotes of 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 BDT (although 2 and 5 taka notes are rare).   

At the time we travelled (May 2022) these are the exchange rates for Bangladesh:

All the taka (actually 1685 Tk or $19 USD).

ATM’s and money

All ATMs we tried offer an English menu.  And more than that, in the big cities they also offer a few minutes of peace (and air conditioning) inside away from the bustle and chaos… 

These bank ATM’s accept international cards: 

And note the ATM’s were not working at the arrivals hall of the airport when we landed in Dhaka.  (None of them!).  We exchanged some USD to purchase a SIM card and found an ATM close to our hotel the next day. 

Posing by an EBL Bank ATM (for the blog)…

Language for travel in Bangladesh

Bengali (or Bangla) is the official language in Bangladesh and is the 8th most-spoken language in the world.

Globally there are over 230,000,000 speakers of Bengali.  

English is not widely spoken in Bangladesh.  And even train and ticket numbers are commonly written in Bangla.  Outside of the cities it can be tricky to find someone to translate.  But those who can speak English (even if it’s patchy) always come forward to help. 

Bangladeshis are hospitable and will try their best to help regardless of barriers to verbally communicate.  

The most common greeting you will hear is the traditional Islamic greeting ‘Asalaam Aleikum’.  Hindus use the Bengali greeting ‘Nomoshkar’.  And admittedly it can be tricky to distinguish religion at first glance (not all Muslim women cover their hair, and some Hindu women do). But play it safe with a smile and you will be happily received.  

Useful Bangla words to learn

The phrase you will get most used to hearing is ‘Kona desh?’.  Which country?  ‘Desh’ means land/country (as in, Bangladesh).  And trust me; you will quickly begin to pick up on people asking you that…

Once you tune in you will hear that phrase more than any other Bangla words around you.  (Tourists are not common – not in the city; not anywhere really – and everyone wants to know where you are from).

Men commonly shake hands and further respect is expressed with a hand over heart.  [Note though that women and men rarely shake hands with one another so don’t extend a handshake first as a traveling female]. 

And a further note without regard to the upcoming challenge of language barriers…  More so be prepared and ready for the stares/staring/stares and selfie requests… 

Staring and selfie requests at Cox’s Bazar (get ready for it).

Our itinerary for travel in Bangladesh

Contemplating an itinerary for travel in Bangladesh is like opening a can of worms.  The direction you can take in this country are endless.  But the tricky thing is that many routes around Bangladesh end up stopping back in at Dhaka.  (I told you Dhaka is ceremoniously like the beating heart of this incredible country). 

Here’s our slightly jumbled but brilliant itinerary for Bangladesh. 

Where to go in Bangladesh (the places we reckon you need to see) 

Now for the most important part of this travel guide for Bangladesh.  

This is the best part. 

Geographically Bangladesh is a large country and distances between cities are great.  We spent one month travelling in Bangladesh and the following are the highlights that we found (and would recommend you see too). 

Dhaka (the capital city)

Dhaka is the beating heart of Bangladesh.  It is as if the waterways of Bangladesh stem out from Dhaka like the veins taking life to the far reaches of the country…

And I’m not going to lie. 

Dhaka is not for the faint hearted. 

But it is incredible. 

Our itinerary around Bangladesh with kids saw us stop and stay four times in Dhaka.  (I told you it was jumbled!).  But we used the bustling capital city as our base to explore different directions of the country…

Things to do in Dhaka

Lalbagh Fort, Dhaka.

Transportation from Dhaka

Sreemangal – Travel in Bangladesh

A small(er) town north of Dhaka that is easy to reach by train from the city.  The highlight of Sreemangal is definitely the renowned 7 and 8-layered tea…

Things to do in Sreemangal

Layered tea in Sreemangal.

Sylhet 

This city and the surrounding division is famous for TEA.  Over 90% of Bangladesh’s tea is produced in Sylhet.  

Sylhet city is 250km northeast of Dhaka and is the north-eastern division in Bangladesh.  (And interestingly when looking at it on a map it is almost entirely surrounded by India with border on the north, south and east of Sylhet division).  

Things to do in Sylhet

Hazarat Shahjalal Mazar Sharif in Sylhet.

Transportation from Sylhet

Barisal

Barisal is one of the major rice production centres of Bangladesh known for the production of Balam rice (and for its fish export – one of the main sights to see is the fish market).  But Barisal is also well known now for it’s unique floating vegetable and timber markets…

Things to do in Barisal

Transportation from Barisal

Barisal Floating Markets at Baitha Katha.

Khulna and Bargerhat

The city of Khulna on the west of Bangladesh is essentially a gateway city to the Sundarbans and the small mosque-filled city of Bagerhat.  

Things to do in Khulna

The centuries-old mausoleum of Khan Jahan Ali in Bagerhat.

Transportation from Bagerhat

Transportation from Khulna

Mongla and Sundarbans

Sundarbans is the world’s largest mangrove forest that spans Bangladesh and the south of West Bengal in India. 

Things to do in Mongla

Watching out for Bengal Tigers while walking in the Sundarbans.

Cox’s Bazar

Cox’s Bazar is the home of the longest natural sea beach in the world.  And it’s a beautiful spot to see in the late afternoon golden hour as the sun sets over the Bay of Bengal. 

Things to do in Cox’s Bazar

Colours and candy floss in the golden sunset hour at Cox’s Bazar.

Transportation from Cox’s Bazar

Chittagong

Chittagong is a large port city on the south-eastern coast of Bangladesh and is second-largest city in the country.  It is another very busy city and like Dhaka, the streets are filled with masses of cycle and auto-rickshaws.  There isn’t much in the way of tourists sights to see but Chittagong is a useful gateway to the Hill Tracts area or south to Cox’s Bazar. 

And for us, Chittagong was a bit more special as we celebrated my birthday.  (I had never previously imagined my birthday at an amusement park in Chittagong but there we were!). 

Things to do in Chittagong

Shishu Park, Chittagong.

Ekduaria Village

It’s hard to decide, but for us the opportunity to stay in and be part of a small village in rural Bangladesh is perhaps the most memorable week of our trip.  

The cities are bustling and the towns have a lot going on.  But seeing day to day life in a rural village is the kind of travel you can’t imagine until you get there. 

I am going to dedicate an entire blog (or two, or more) to sharing our experience in Ekduaria Village, but for now here are some of the highlights… 

Eating jackfruit (so much jackfruit) on our first morning in the village.

Things to do in Ekduaria Village

Watching the local boys climb up to harvest huge palm nuts.

Health

As we awaited the return of confirmed travel visas for Bangladesh we let slip to a few of our close friends that we were planning a trip to Bangladesh – with kids.  

After the initial eye-bulging return stare of said friends and family, the first question was always of safety.  Is Bangladesh safe?!  

Now, having been and travelled Bangladesh – and survived thrived – our summary is not of safety concerns… But those of health. 

There’s no two ways about it.  Health and hygiene are legitimate concerns for travel in Bangladesh.  

Dhaka is one of the most polluted (and obviously the most populous) cities in the world.  And hygiene standards are low. 

Like low, low.  Really low. 

There is only so much you can do as prevention in these circumstances.  

Every restaurant has somewhere to wash your hands. Use it.

Food in Bangladesh 

Bangladesh is a land of rice.  

And I would say also a land of BBQ meat, bhaji, jackfruit and flatbreads.  

But the most exciting part about food in Bangladesh? Bangladeshis use their hands to eat.  

It is definitely something of a practised art form to eat entirely sans cutlery.  But a few days into it you will find yourself ignoring the especially sought out fork and joining the local way. 

The right hand is used to scoop food into your mouth and it is considered bad etiquette to eat with your left hand.  Rather, the left hand should be used to hold the plate or assist with serving.  

Every eatery no matter how big or small will have a ‘wash room’ or handwashing station.  (Albeit you may need to scoop the water from a bucket).  But get into it and give it a go.  There is a whole list of delicious tastes and dishes that await you! 

Trying Mishti at a small village restaurant.

Food in Bangladesh with kids

And fruit and drinking coconuts!  We arrived just at the beginning of mango season which was delicious.  And we ate far more than our fair share of jackfruit in the village.

Chicken biryani at Star Kabab, Dhaka – no cutlery required.

Drinking water

Tap water is not safe to drink in Bangladesh.  And unfortunately, finding filtered water to refill your drink bottle is not easy. 

If you have a steripen or UV water filter definitely bring this for your trip as it’s not a nice feeling to buy plastic bottles of drinking water in a country that is seriously struggling with plastic/pollution… 

Best to play it safe.  And watch out for cups/cutlery that is dripping from being washed in unsanitary water. 

Are there supermarkets and/or recognisable shops in Bangladesh? 

This is probably about the time I have to confess we even ordered takeaway chicken and chips one evening from Food Panda.  In other words; in the city, Bangladesh isn’t far behind with takeaways and food delivery services.  

However, many of the big brands (McDonalds, Starbucks etc) are not in Bangladesh.  

Agora is a popular supermarket chain and stores can be found in the main cities. 

Agora Supermarket, Dhaka

What to wear for travel in Bangladesh

I love this part of travel Bangladesh. The country is obviously populous (200,000,000 obvious) but oh Bangladesh, you are oh-so-colourful…

Bangladesh is a majority Islamic country and there are expectations for what to wear for travel in the cities and especially in the rural areas.  

For women long pants are always expected.  In the cities is ok(ish) to wear a smart, short-sleeved top. But I would recommend out of the city at least ¾ sleeves.  

I found the best clothing for Bangladesh was the local style of (brightly coloured) salwar kameez.  This is the typical Bangladeshi 3-piece costume of loose trousers, long (below your bottom) tunic-style top and scarf draped across your chest or over your head.  

The salwar kameez is made from fabric that is cool to wear and is addictively colourful.   

For men, advice is similarly conservative but with slightly more flexibility.  Men in shorts can be spotted on occasion. But being realistic, it’s not a common sight.  Long pants/trousers and a shirt for men is recommended (and expected, really). 

And for kids – especially young kids – it’s more relaxed.  Our boys enjoyed trying the local style of Panjabi (particularly as locals had never seen boys with long hair before!). 

Bangladeshi costumes you will see day-to-day:

Feeling colourful in the village in my Salwar Kameez.

Transportation in Bangladesh

Transport and travel in Bangladesh can be as tricky as you make it.

There is road travel (taxis, buses, vans), train travel (express trains and a new metro to come), river travel (the most traditional means of travel in Bangladesh) and rickshaws (pedal and auto).

Don’t try and over complicate things haggling for a best price (especially over a few cents). You will draw a crowd regardless but even more so if you’re trying to negotiate with a driver. And don’t be afraid to walk away. They know how much it should cost and you don’t need to be ripped off just because you’re a foreigner.

Getting around by auto rickshaw (CNG) – travel in Bangladesh

Bangladesh has electric and CNG auto rickshaws that are easy to flag down and take for short to medium distances in the cities and towns.  

For a 2km distance it costs around 100Tk (USD $1.15).  Just be sure to negotiate and confirm the price before you climb in.  

Getting around by cycle rickshaw – travel in Bangladesh

This is by far the most authentic mode of transport in Bangladesh.  It only costs a few taka for a short distance by cycle rickshaw (just not so easy for us as a family of four – we need to get two!).  

Cycle rickshaws are common in Old Delhi.

Train travel in Bangladesh

Bangladesh is well known for train travel.  It’s likely you will have seen images of hundreds of people riding on the roof of trains… 

Well, we did see people on the rooftops (and heard big thumps as they leapt on the roof above us from one carriage to the next!).   But the police are trying reduce the number of people riding on the top and fortunately we didn’t see quite as many as anticipated.  

It’s relatively easy to book a train ticket at the main railway station in Dhaka.  The most challenging part of booking is battling the traffic in a taxi to get there.  If you don’t have hours to spare you can contact a guide (like trip2bangladesh.com) ahead of time to book the ticket for you (we did this for our first train from Dhaka to Sylhet) and have it dropped to your hotel. 

Slightly swarmed-but-friendly locals at Kamalapur Railway Station, Dhaka.

Boat travel in Bangladesh

Long-distance water travel in Bangladesh is by launch.  These are huge river ferries (what we would call a ferry back home).  But in Bangladesh, ferries are the term for short-distance river travel from one side of the river to the other.  Like the one we took across the Padma river (this is the main channel of the greater Ganges River in Bangladesh).  

Launch travel is a bucketlist experience in Bangladesh and absolutely the most traditional means of transport in the country.  

Overnight launches depart from Dhaka in the evening and arrive in Barisal before sunrise. 

Here are some of the class options and pricing for a one-way overnight launch in Bangladesh: 

Relaxing travel by launch on the rivers of Bangladesh.

Bus travel in Bangladesh

Bus travel is a cheap way to move between cities.  There’s no need to pre-book far in advance as there are squillions hundreds of buses departing frequently in any given direction. 

It was easy to purchase tickets the day before from a small travel agent in Cox’s Bazar for the 5 hour journey to Chittagong.  (Transport and tour agent stalls line the streets in the tourist area here).  Tickets for the AC bus cost 500 Tk each ($6 USD). 

Budget for travel in Bangladesh

As a traveller, first thoughts are that Bangladesh will be a cheap country to travel in.  And daily – for food, necessities and transport – it is. 

An evening cup of sweet milk cha (with a crowd) for 5 Tk (0.10c).

Connectivity and WIFI

I must admit we were (pleasantly) surprised by connectivity and wifi options in Bangladesh.  Albeit hotel accommodation is not really cheap (for a family) but every place we stayed had free and unlimited wifi.  

We were disconnected from 3G and 4G data on some of the bus and train rides but not in a way that caused any disruption worth writing further about. 

Getting a SIM card for travel in Bangladesh 

The three biggest communications operators in Bangladesh are: 

Grameenphone has a counter selling SIM cards as you exit customs at the airport in Dhaka (even for a night time flight).  

When we landed in Dhaka there were not ATM’s working but I exchanged $20 USD and was able to buy two SIM cards with Grameenphone for 600 Tk each including 12GB of data. 

It’s easy to top up (they call it ‘recharge’) your card at many small street shops.  Just get familiar with the Grameenphone logo and keep an eye out for it.  

If you handover your phone the shopkeeper will top it up the old-fashioned way by calling in to Grameenphone and recharging your desired amount to your account.  You can then choose from a list of data or calling packages. 

Data prices are cheap (like cheap, cheap) and come up under ‘My Offers’ on the service provider app: 

A Grameenphone store at Chittagong Railway Station (look out for the logo to recharge anywhere).

Whether to travel in Bangladesh independently or pre-book tours and transport? 

No doubt you’ve started googling and are wondering how to put together the pieces of the puzzle that is an itinerary for Bangladesh.  But quite frankly there isn’t a lot of information out there.

Looking at the map before we left, we split our travel in Bangladesh into different legs (in different directions). We made contact with owner, Ontu of tour company TripToBangladesh to gauge prices for transport and to pre-book the first overnight launch and day tour for the Sundarbans. 

For the remainder we travelled independently (by bus, plane and train) and booked two of our three train journeys after we arrived. 

I can highly recommend Ontu for his caring and very professional manner to help with making any tour and/or transport bookings for Bangladesh.  

To stay in Ekduaria Village contact host Jafar Tuhin of Taabu Ekduaria directly on +880 1969-404414.  Jafar is an incredible host, with fluent English and very easy to be around.  We arrived as guests and left as friends. 

Useful contacts for travel in Bangladesh

Jafar is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide for city tours of Dhaka and the neighbouring ancient city of Sonargaon too. I highly recommend a day tour of Old Dhaka including the sights, bazars and fascinating huge ship breaking yards. Contact him directly – you will not be disappointed!

Meeting people in the Old Dhaka ship-breaking yards.

Accommodation options for travel in Bangladesh

In a country that is shamelessly renowned for being a budget destination, I would say that for us the cost of accommodation in Bangladesh came as a surprise. 

I’m not going to pretend we found budget accommodation and roughed our way around the country.  Because we didn’t.  But cost-wise it wasn’t what we expected. 

We booked a hotel to arrive to for the first few nights (Hotel 71) and the family room allocated to four pax was well above our budget for fulltime travel. 

As we found our feet and figured out how it all worked here we realised that as a family, accommodation options offered the greatest disparity in our budget.  

In Dhaka, Sylhet and Chittagong there seemed to be 4 or 5 star hotel options at $130+ USD per night.  Or you had to be roughing it in a guesthouse/apartment that we could barely even find online… 

In the smaller cities like Sreemangal and Cox’s Bazar it is easier to find lower-cost accommodation.  

But even as normally strict-budget travellers I can tell you we were unashamedly thankful for an albeit expensive-but-clean room, air-conditioning and a hot shower in the cities.  Pick your battles?

Everything we booked in Bangladesh we managed to book ahead of time online through booking.com.  We booked the first few nights prior to arriving.

Green Leaf Guest House, Sreemangal.

Where we stayed in Bangladesh

Read the reviews on booking sites and use Google Maps to check out accommodation and locations before you book.  

Laguna Beach Hotel in Cox’s Bazar.

Thank you, Bangladesh.

Well that ends our huge guide for travel in Bangladesh.  

If you are looking for a destination that will give you culture, colour, adventure, taste and wonder then I recommend travel in Bangladesh. 

Please leave us a comment with any further questions and we’ll get back to you. 

We had a truly, genuinely fantastic time traveling in Bangladesh. And now that I’ve dried my tears on leaving Ekduaria Village after an incredible week of Bangladeshi hospitality, I know for sure it is going to be one of those countries that sticks with us, and close to our heart for a long time to come…

More about travel planning for Bangladesh and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

Read more about travel in Bangladesh and South Asia

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