This is a story of learning and tears – of war – and of the kindness of strangers in Gorazde, Bosnia.
If you ever get the chance to visit; do.
About Bosnia and Herzegovina and the town of Gorazde
There’s a lot of travel that happens before the event. A lot of it is practical preparations – bookings and budgeting – that sort of thing. But one thing we have learnt in our style of travel is that there is also the emotional prep too.
We try everywhere we go to learn beforehand about the destination.
We thought we had heard about and knew enough about the war in Bosnia.
But nothing obviously teaches you like being on the ground.
You need to know enough to have a basic handle of history (political and geopolitical history) and recent politics. Plus it is also important to know in advance about a countries neighbours – and a bit about their history too.
But nothing could have prepared us emotionally for our experience in Gorazde, Bosnia.
You know we talk often about emotional stamina? What we mean is about how much we can handle or take on board as a traveller experiencing history and learning just as a visitor.
Everyone has a different emotional tolerance or stamina that they travel with.
But nothing could have prepared us for the learning – and emotional force of the learning – we experienced in Gorazde, Bosnia.
The following is our story about visiting Gorazde, Bosnia, some of the things to see and the people that we met.
A rumbling in the wheel bearing in Serbia
A big part of this story and learning about Gorazde, Bosnia starts with a rumbling wheel bearing in our right-hand front motorhome wheel.
As we wound down the hills towards Vardiste, the rumbling was getting worse. We stopped on the hillside to consider our options. Which weren’t many right then in remote Serbia.
But we continued and stopped for the night with plans to cross to Bosnia and Herzegovina in the morning.
- The wheel bearing turns out to be the connection that leads us to learning so much about Gorazde, Bosnia.
Crossing the border from Serbia to Bosnia
We arrived in Bosnia and Herzegovina overland in our motorhome from Serbia.
Our first stop in Bosnia was the small(ish) town of Visegrad. It is a historic town centred around the River Drina.
The Visegrad Bridge was commissioned in 1571 and still retains its original stature over the River Drina. We stopped for a wander and bought lunch at the supermarket.
This town has a very sad past. But for now, we appreciated the sunshine and the drive through this historical spot from the border.
Arriving in Gorazde, Bosnia
After refuelling with food (from the supermarket as the ATM wouldn’t take our card) we left Visegrad. We were heading in the direction of Sarajevo, via the next major town of Gorazde.
Admittedly our directional plan was a little nonchalant as we had no idea how the next few days would unravel. Mostly because we were yet to stop to replace the wheel bearing. Which was getting worse and worse by the kilometre.
We spotted what looked like a New Zealand Repco equivalent. It was an auto-parts store with large vehicle logos and signs outside.
We pulled in to check if they had a front wheel bearing in stock.
Which they didn’t.
Making alternative plans – Gorazde, Bosnia
Though before (thankfully) we had a chance to flag plans and walk out without a solution or a wheel bearing, they were on the phone trying to find one.
Within three minutes on the phone while we stood there not understanding a word, they signalled the universal sign of thumbs up.
They had one that could be delivered tomorrow afternoon – and a local mechanic to fit it.
Meeting the Gorzade Mechanic
They called the mechanic – much to our slight disbelief that there could in fact be a solution so readily – and said he would be there to meet us in five minutes.
We met the mechanic, Bedi and his wife, Sanela. They were a couple from Gorazde, Bosnia.
Sanela was dressed in full mechanic overalls and spoke to us with fluent English. Her husband Bedi, didn’t speak a word of English.
But despite the language barrier with Bedi, Gavin instantly connected with him as he shook his hand firmly. Bedi walked outside to our van and without words indicated to get in, drive up the road and turn around so he could hear the wheel bearing.
Gavin turned to me and gave me a look of confidence as he hopped in the van.
This guy knew his stuff.
He sat in the front and Gavin drove less than 300m up the road until Bedi signalled to turn around. He confirmed it instantly with a nod confirming our original diagnosis.
If I could fast forward a few days, there is no other way to describe Bedi except one of those skilled mechanics that is like a watching a wizard at work.
Gavin likened him to his brother in New Zealand, Rick. Which if you know his brother is the biggest of compliments to Bedi.
Even as a self-confessed non-mechanical bystander I was in awe to see him work.
But back in real time, we now had 24 hours to wait for the part.
Finding a spot to park for the night – Gorazde, Bosnia
Bedi and Sanela kindly drove us to a spot to park on a large public verge right above the riverside. They said this would be a good spot to stay for the night.
Over the next few hours we had not one but four locals check in to say ‘Hi’ and welcome us to Bosnia before Bedi and Sanela popped back to check once again whether we needed anything.
The River Drina has a very pivotal part in the story of Bosnia and the war and massacre of Gorazde. But at this moment we had a beautiful place to stay and set ourselves up parked up for the night…
About kindness and the flow of hospitality (and tears)
While we were parked up for the late afternoon and even before Sanela and Bedi came back we met at least four other locals.
The first was Pavlovich riding past on his bicycle.
He stopped to talk for a while and like us, he had two sons.
His sons were grown up and living in Canada. Though to our surprise he also knew about New Zealand and asked if we lived in Auckland or Wellington. (It’s not every day people we meet even know of New Zealand!).
We talked economics and the cost of living. With Pavlovich we discussed the price of rent and pensions in New Zealand, Bosnia and Europe.
We talked about bicycles as Gavin pumped up our old bikes from the Netherlands. Then off he rode on his; still cycling every day at 77 years old.
About an hour later we heard a call;
“Hey, New Zealand! I bought you some dinner!”
He had cycled back and dropped off a bag of small treats for us for dinner.
Kindness from a new friend – Gorazde, Bosnia
Pavlovich showed us inside the bag to a note with his name – which he read out in brilliant English – some coloured eggs from Orthodox Easter that week, sausage, bread and some vegetables from his garden.
Then he walked off and said:
“I wish you all the best in whatever you do. Have a great life!”
Well – and WOW – cue the feelings of emotion.
Looking at the River Drina – Gorazde, Bosnia
I’m going to be honest. It made me teary looking out at the River Drina and thinking how incredible people are all ALL AROUND THE WORLD.
Here in Gorazde, Bosnia in just a few hours we had learnt more than we realised we didn’t know about Bosnia and Eastern Europe.
Pavlovich had really represented what we had spent time during this drive talking about – the differences between hospitality and friendliness. We had talked about how people we meet everywhere seem to go above and beyond to make visitors – strangers – so welcomed.
It’s humbling. (And emotional; obvs).
But at the end of the day it is like the flowing river. It is that simple childlike lesson that we all learn – that kindness makes the world go round.
It makes it flow.
Thank you already, Sanela and Bedi. Thank you Pavlovich, for your kindness, and for exemplifying kindness not only in your country. But once again showing the good in the world.
Waiting for a wheel bearing becomes an education-and-a-half
We slept well by the River Drina. After our new friends had come to say goodnight the evening before; they arrived shortly after 9:00am and asked us for coffee in town.
We drove our van to their house and hopped in with them for what would turn out to be both an incredibly moving and a special day in Gorazde, Bosnia.
They spent the whole day with us taking us around their town and showing us the best of tastes of Bosnia – ice cream, coffee, homemade cakes and Sinalco soda. They showed us the history of this pivotal place in what was the war in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Taking it in – Gorazde, Bosnia
It’s a lot to take in. I know we talk about our emotional stamina and how often we wonder if travel hardens you to sights and history.
Do you ever get over it? Do you ever become hardened to it?
No.
In all our years of travel there is something sickening and so gut-wrenchingly tragic about hearing the stories of war. That no matter how much we feel prepared by media or the distance of time and history – we are never fully prepared.
We learnt so much.
We saw the way the people of the village of Gorazde, Bosnia survived by making floating power stations to generate electricity over three years of siege.
Then we saw the vehicle used to collect aid drops that often missed and landed in the river. It was the same vehicle that was used to collect bodies.
We heard them share stories of eating grass (yes; grass) as their communities died literally of starvation.
From Bedi, translated by Sanela we heard their stories of running and hiding while their families became separated.
The visible scars of war – Gorazde, Bosnia
All around us the buildings are still covered in bullet holes and scars of shelling. There are holes in the road from grenades.
As we sipped coffee(s) with our Gorazde hosts and looked around at the scarred buildings, you can’t help but feel in awe. In awe of these two incredible people we met purely by chance.
While in disgust – at history.
In fear – at the power of human beings.
Then in awe again at the resilience of real people – like here in Gorazde, Bosnia.
This is not a pothole – Gorazde, Bosnia
THIS – is part of the aftermath of the Bosnian War from 1992 to 1995.
Gorazde was one of six Bosniak enclaves that was surrounded and besieged by forces in horrifying attempts for ethnic cleansing.
East Bosnia, including the riverside town of Gorazde due to its geographical location was in a specifically tough position.
In 1993 it was made into a United Nations Safe Area where the UN was supposed to deter attacks on the civilian population.
But they failed them. Miserably.
The town was kept under siege for 1336 days where the local population (that remained) only survived due to their ingenuity and their will to live.
You can see the very visible remains of it all; most left as a reminder.
Left as a reminder – Gorazde, Bosnia
Many visitors to Bosnia – like us – have heard of the tragic war of the country. But for the most part link the war with Sarajevo, Mostar or Srebwnica.
When the reality is that the war in Bosnia was outspread throughout the entire country. Small towns like Gorazde, Bosnia went through ordeals that are today incomprehensible.
I don’t have the stomach to go into the specific details. Especially the acts on women.
But here’s to the next photos and our attempts at sharing what I can only describe as one of our most moving experiences in all of our travel to date.
Telling a story – Gorazde, Bosnia
It’s decidedly hard to tell a story that is not ours but one we learn from others.
There is so much to digest. Which then we hope to share in a way that honours those the story originally lived and intended.
It’s hard to fathom how it might really have been. Especially visiting exactly as just that; a visitor to Gorazde, Bosnia.
But we learn a lot.
We had a truly special few days with Sanela and Bedi. In Gorazde – in brilliant sunshine – we saw both the very best of a beautiful riverside town and the contrastingly stark reminders of its past.
A learning better told in photos – Gorazde, Bosnia
So because it’s hard to find the words; here are our photos from our days out in Gorazde, Bosnia and Herzegovina. We explored Gorazde and we went with our hosts right up into the mountains to a resort in the hills.
We spent the day until our wheel bearing arrived walking around the town and learning the traumatic history. Then we spent the next day with new friends hosted at their house where we stayed, shared meals and learnt more again about humanity – and Gorazde, Bosnia.
It was so much learning about the country – it’s tastes; it’s people and it’s landscape – and about a tragic history that really wasn’t all that long ago…
Read more about travel in West Asia and Europe
- 10 Things To Do In Pristina, Kosovo.
- 20 Things To Do In Bucharest, Romania.
- Border Crossing: Romania to Moldova.
- Border Crossing: Kosovo to North Macedonia.
- 20 Things To Do In Podgorica, Montenegro.
- 14 Things To Do In Belgrade, Serbia.
- Border Crossing: Serbia to Bosnia and Herzegovina.
- Border Crossing: Bosnia to Montenegro.
- 10 Things To Do In Chisinau, Moldova.
Useful links for your travel in Bosnia and beyond
These are the companies we use and can recommend for planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. It is easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- 12GoAsia – Book trains anywhere online.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world. Everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Make sure you have insurance before travel to Gorazde, Bosnia!
