Have you heard about the daily Amritsar border ceremony? It is unquestionably one of the most unique borders in the world.
Every evening at sunset, both country’s militaries go to great lengths to outdo each other with parades and pompous in a ceremony at the nightly closing of the border. And unsurprisingly, as a visitor, experiencing the Wagah Border Ceremony is one of the most unusual but popular things to do in Amritsar.
The atmosphere is oddly carnivalesque. There is a huge grandstand on both sides of the border where in the middle the soldiers of the Indian and Pakistani military march towards each other, kicking their legs as high as they can in intimidation before finally shaking hands and lowering each country’s flag.
It really is an incredibly energetic and one-of-a-kind experience in India.
Here are all the details about the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar including ceremony timings and all you need to know to be prepared!
- History of the Wagah Border
- About the Amritsar border ceremony
- Visiting from Amritsar
- Tickets and timing
- Entry and seating
- How long is the ceremony?
- What to bring (and what not to bring)
- Location
- Getting there from Amritsar
- Where to stay in Amritsar
History of the Wagah Border at Amritsar and Lahore
Prior to partition in 1947, the two countries of India and Pakistan were under the rule of the British.
But the history of the Wagah Border dates back to when British rulers left the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The border came into existence as the country was divided into Muslim-majority Pakistan and Hindu-majority India.
Relations between the two countries have been tense throughout history. But the Wagah Border ceremony and lowering of the border flags each evening at the Attari-Wagah Border has been a daily military practice and closing of the international border since 1959.
The Wagah Border ceremony in Amritsar – what is it all about?
The governments of both nations started the Wagah Border Ceremony, also known as the Beating Retreat Ceremony, in 1959. It was started as a ceremonial gesture of goodwill, acknowledging the rivalry between the two nations, as well as their brotherhood.
However, it’s slightly tricky to detail the official description of the Wagah Border Ceremony. Every day the ceremony starts with a blustering standoff parade by the soldiers from both sides, and ends up in the perfectly coordinated lowering of the two nations’ flags.
The parade on each side is better described like a competition of pompous. Each side marches towards the border line with the soldiers vying to see who can lift and kick their foot the highest and stomp their foot the hardest to the ground.
The passion of the soldiers on both sides fulfilling their duty of this unusual ceremony is indisputably impressing.
There is shouting, singing, kicking, foot-thumping and stomping, drumming, dancing, and everything about trying to outdo the other side.
Then, after the grand performance (and very LOUD music), the large iron gates that separate the two countries are opened. And two soldiers from each country lower the flags simultaneously.
The ceremony ends with a polite handshake between the soldiers before they retreat and the gates are slammed closed for the night.
How to visit the Wagah Border ceremony from Amritsar
In Amritsar, the Wagah Border Ceremony is performed every evening.
The ceremony is arranged like a formal event between India and Pakistan. But you don’t need a booking.
Seats are available on a first-come, first-serve basis and there is a specific area in the grandstand for foreigners that is very close to the borderline gates.
How much does it cost? Do you need tickets for the Amritsar Border Ceremony?
The border ceremony is a free event. You do not need tickets.
There is no fare or fee for attending the Wagah Border ceremony for tourists as there is no ticket required.
Seats are not pre-allocated. There is space for 25,000 visitors watching the Amritsar border ceremony side and it’s all on a first come first served basis.
Wagah Border Ceremony Timings. What time does the Amritsar border ceremony start?
Between the hours of 10:00am and 4:00pm the Attari-Wagah border functions as an operating border crossing between India and Pakistan. From 4:00pm on the Indian side, border crossings close and the stadium is prepared for the ceremony.
- Tip: The Amritsar border ceremony starts from 4:15pm in winter (October to March) and at 5:15pm in the summer (April to September).
However, from both sides the question of timings for the Wagah Border ceremony is generalised. Don’t expect it to start on the dot. It more officially starts at 4:30pm and 5:30pm but there is a lot of hype and music (LOUD) and shouting and support before it officially starts.
So, it is recommended to arrive at the Amritsar border ceremony 30 minutes early. And trust me there is a lot of hype and energy and lots going on before the ceremony starts. There is no risk of arriving too early and being bored!
There is a security check to enter the stadium that takes time and can have queues. So do arrive early.
- Tip: You cannot cross the India-Pakistan border in either direction and then stay and watch the ceremony as bags are not allowed in the stadium. See below for what to bring and items that are not permitted.
How long does the Wagah Border Ceremony in Amritsar last?
We left from our hotel at 4pm and were back by 8:00pm in July, during the summer in Amritsar.
The actual ceremony is less than 45 minutes but there is singing and performance before the show.
- Tip: Plan to arrive about 30 minutes early to get a good seat.
Where is the Amritsar Wagah Border ceremony location?
The Wagah Border ceremony takes place every evening on the border post between Attari, India and Wagah, Pakistan. The village of Attari ends just 3km from the border crossing post and is situated on the Grand Trunk Road that became the demarcation line between India and Pakistan.
- Tip: As a little side information, Grand Trunk Road (GT Road) is one of the oldest and longest roads across South Asia. It is over 2,500km and extends from Kabul all the way through Lahore, to Delhi, Kolkata, and Chittagong in Bangladesh!
How to get to the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar
It is recommended to arrive at the Wagah Border Ceremony from Amritsar about 30 minutes before the ceremony begins. And it takes about 45 minutes from Amritsar to the border ceremony stadium.
Most tours or drivers will arrange to leave your hotel in Amritsar around 4:00pm in summer and earlier, at 3:00pm in the winter months.
If you have a driver while you are in Punjab, that makes it easy to get to the Amritsar border ceremony. Otherwise, you can ask your hotel to arrange a driver to take you to the border and wait for you during the ceremony and drive you back.
The distance from Amritsar to the Border Ceremony on the India side is just over 30km. However, at that time of day (or any time of day in Amritsar) it can be heavy with traffic.
- Amritsar to Wagah Border Ceremony: 40 min (31.7 km) via Grand Trunk Rd
What to bring – and what not to bring to the Amritsar Wagah Border Ceremony
You really don’t need to bring much to the ceremony except a great energy!
You will have to go through a screening security check before entering the stadium.
And it’s a good idea to bring a hat and or sunscreen as you will be sitting in the direct sunlight and especially in summer it is hot. Like hot, HOT.
We took one small, kids personal backpack. Although we had read that they do not let you take a bag inside we genuinely didn’t have any bag smaller (and we wanted to take the camera!). However, it isn’t recommend to bring a bag in case you are not allowed to enter with it.
There is a scanner and a pat down upon entering. And if you do have a purse or camera bag they will check inside the bag.
Snacks, drinks, face painting and flags – and fans!
You definitely need to get into the spirit of things! There are several small stalls offering face painting and selling ribbons and hats and Indian trinkets and souvenirs on entry to the Amritsar border ceremony.
There doesn’t seem to be a fixed price for the face painting (nor at either time we have been to the Pakistan side of the Wagah Border Ceremony!) but the flags and hats are only a few rupees.
There are several small cars and kiosks as you enter towards the security check. These sell large bottles of water, cold drinks, snacks, popcorn, and chai.
Inside the stadium vendors will come around to the grandstand and seating area selling popcorn, cold drinks, water, and snacks.
And if you haven’t already got one, they sell India hand fans to attempt to beat the heat!).
After the Wagah Border ceremony
What a show! It is a buzzing atmosphere and very busy after the ceremony. (And seriously hot and sweaty when we went in July). But what a show!
It is a humbling experience to witness this border ceremony as a foreigner and a reminder of how fortunate we are to be able to cross this border while many from each of these two countries cannot.
There is time afterwards to see the soldiers and get a quick photo. But do be quick as there is a massive rush and it is then time to escort everyone away from the border.
We hope you enjoyed the Wagah Amritsar border ceremony!
Planning on crossing the Attari-Wagah Border from India to Pakistan?
There are lots of perceptions about whether or not the border is in fact open to cross from India to Pakistan. But we’ve crossed the border here at Attari-Wagah four times and in both directions!
- Read all about crossing the border from Amritsar to Lahore here.
Accommodation / Where to stay in Amritsar, India
There are some great places to stay in Amritsar. Here are the hotels we use regularly on our travels in India and that we can recommend for your trip.
- Budget: Hotel Sapphire
A basic hotel but points for location. It is literally right outside the main entrance for visiting the Golden Temple. Note only the upstairs rooms have a balcony with direct views to the temple complex.
- Mid-Range / Luxury: Hyatt Regency
We have a fabulous stay each time at the Hyatt Regency with a swimming pool, restaurant and the incredible breakfast buffet. The location is great and only a short drive to the Golden Temple and Heritage Walk. And the famous Nexus Alpha Mall is literally right next door!
Accommodation / Where to stay in Lahore, Pakistan
If you are crossing the border from India to Lahore, Pakistan these are the hotels where we stay regularly in Lahore and can recommend for your visit.
- Gulberg, Lahore: Rose Palace Hotel
Another great friendly hotel choice we recommend (we’ve stayed here three times!) and a good base for your first night in Pakistan. A basic hotel but with large plush rooms. A large buffet breakfast included each morning. Gym onsite and a small shop and bakery just at the entrance to the hotel.
- Davis Road, Lahore: Grand Millennium Hotel
We have stayed here multiple times as well. GMH has spacious comfortable rooms with great AC and a basic buffet breakfast upstairs. The location is closer towards the old city and a short rickshaw ride to Savour Foods and Anarkali Bazar.
More about travel planning for India, Pakistan and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home).
Read more from travel in South Asia
- 12 Unique things to do in Amritsar, Punjab.
- How to visit the Golden Temple, Amritsar.
- Catching the Vande Bharat Fast Train from Delhi to Amritsar.
- How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
- Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan.
- Money in India: Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely.
- How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
- Our complete packing list for travel in India.
