Jaisalmer Fort: Things to see in the worlds oldest surviving ‘Living Fort’.

Jaisalmer Fort is undisputably the main draw to visit Jaisalmer and lives up to all expectations.  It is one of the world’s largest fully preserved forts and one of the very few ‘living forts’ in the world with nearly one fourth of the old city’s population still residing within the fort walls.  

There is nowhere in India like it.  

We’ve visited Jaisalmer six times in the last few years.  It is a highlight on our Group Trips and just an overall surreal place to visit in real life.  The fort is an icon of Rajasthan.  And today, it is one of the tourist destinations in the colourful state that implores much wonder at the incredible history of India. 

But what I really wanted to know when I first visited, was what to see in the Jaisalmer fort itself, and what not to miss of this incredible golden city. 

Here is everything you need to know to make the most of your time in Jaisalmer and exploring the wonderous Jaisalmer fort. 

About the city of Jaisalmer – the Golden City of Rajasthan 

Jaisalmer was established in the 12th century by the Rajput king Rawal Jaisal as a fortress town rising from the sands of the Rajasthan Thar Desert. 

Due to the geographical location of Jaisalmer it was historically an important stop on the camel merchant trade lines between India and Central Asia on the historic Silk Road during the 16th and 18th century  At this time textiles were a big part of the trading that Jaisalmer is still famous for today. 

Eventually, the rise of shipping trade in the fast-growing port of Bombay (Mumbai) saw the city decline as a vital stop on trade routes.  And after the partition of India and Pakistan in 1947 Jaisalmer became even more isolated.  

Tourism today in Jaisalmer is steadily on the incline.  The growth of tourism to the golden city rivals the military base as the crux of the city’s economy. 

Sonar Quila – Jaisalmer Fort 

The Jaisalmer fort is the second oldest in Rajasthan.  The fort is famously recognisable for the golden hue of yellow sandstone construction, earning it the moniker ‘Sonar Quila’ or the Golden Fort.

It was built in 1156 AD by Rawal Jaisal and derives its name from two words – Jaisal and Meru. The name Jaisal came from the king himself. And Meru is the name of an unassailable mythical mountain of the Gods in the Himalayas. 

With Jaisalmer being such an important stop on trading routes, the city saw many battles.  Each historic siege led to stronger fortifications and tightened security creating the fort one sees today. 

The fort consists of three layers of fortified walls with cannons from apt viewpoints dotted around the ramparts. There are 99 bastions and four monumental gateways entering the fort.  

Where is Jaisalmer Fort and how to get there in Jaisalmer? 

From wherever you are in the city of Jaisalmer, the fort is impressively positioned on the hill and visible from all directions.  It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2013 and today it is the main – and iconic – draw of tourism in Jaisalmer city. 

  • Entrance Fee: There is no entrance fee to enter the fort.  The fort has a living population of 3000 residents within the fort walls. 
  • Opening Hours: The fort is open 24/7. 

It is easy to find your way to the fort on foot.  Ask anyone for directions to the fort and you will find yourself by the main entrance in 10-15 minutes, from anywhere in the city. 

You can also get an auto rickshaw to the main gate.  The rickshaws do technically go inside the fort, but this isn’t great for the longevity of the historic laneways and plus, you’ll miss the first things to see. 

Local men in Jaisalmer near Tazia Tower.
Welcome to Jaisalmer – the Golden City of Rajasthan.

History of Jaisalmer Fort 

The fort was built in the 12th century as an impenetrable defence from invasion and was an important hub of the Rajput Bhati rule and historical encounters between the Bhattis, the Mughals of Delhi, and the Rathores of Jodhpur.

And while the fort today doesn’t have the same importance to protect the city from invasion, it is an incredible part of the cultural and historic old city of Jaisalmer. 

When is the best time to visit Jaisalmer?

The winter months in Rajasthan are the best time to visit Jaisalmer from October to March.  The winter temperature at this time of year is between 10°c to 27°c with a pleasant arid desert climate.  

We have visited in March, June, July, August, October and November over the last five years. And while we found the temperature hot during the summer I can’t complain about June and July.  May is the hottest month of the year and this season temperatures were up in the Celsius fifties!

Do you need or recommend a tour guide for Jaisalmer Fort? 

The fort is absolutely doable independently.  It is fascinating to explore, even on a surface level with a spare morning or afternoon before a camel safari.  

The main thing to do inside Jaisalmer Fort is an audio tour of the Maharaja Palace.  This gives a great overview of the palace and the fort itself.  And note, this is where it is sometimes confusing looking at prices online.  While there is no charge to enter Jaisalmer Fort itself, there is an entrance fee to the palace inside and a small charge for the very worthwhile audio tour.  

  • Tip: We recommend entering the fort and doing the audio tour of the palace first before exploring the rest of Jaisalmer fort. 

10 Things to see in Jaisalmer Fort 

Before you head into the incredible honeycomb of golden hued alleyways and small market lanes, here are the things to see inside the living fort interior. 

1. Ake Pol – the main entrance gate to Jaisalmer fort

As soon as you enter through the grand gate, Ake Pol, you can see the flag of Jaisalmer in saffron and red flying from atop the fort palace. 

The chowk (square) inside the first entrance was once an internal meeting point for preparation of the Jaisalmer armies heading out to battle.  

Just through the main entrance to Jaisalmer Fort, Ake Pol.
Just through the main entrance to Jaisalmer Fort, Ake Pol.

2. Suraj Pol – the second gate 

The second gate at the top of the chowk is called Suraj Pol.  Suraj, meaning ‘sun’ in Hindi is celebrated as the moniker of the sun god in Hinduism and essential to the prosperity and protection of Hindu followers.  

However, Suraj Gate has a more grim than sunny past.  

To your right as you round the corner you can see a tree (likely with buskers’ beneath).  This was historically the punishment area of the fortified city and the old city jail.  But the jail has been converted to a charity for the livelihood and living standards of locals.  The cells are still there though used as storage and offices. 

Suraj Gate is also a first glimpse as a visitor into the historic practice of Sati.  Sati or suttee was a Hindu practice in which a widow sacrifices herself by sitting atop her deceased husband’s funeral pyre.  

Though outlawed now, there are handprints preserved into the side of Suraj Gate from widows of Sati. Residents consider the Sati handprints on the gateways to be sacred. 

3. Ganesh Pol – the third gate 

After Suraj Pol is the second internal gate, Ganesh Pol.  This was the original and first gate built inside the Jaisalmer Fort with an elevated watchtower on each side above the entranceway. 

4. Hawa Pol – the fourth gate 

‘Hawa’ means wind in Hindi with the gate named after the consistent breeze that sweeps through the arched entranceway.  And usurpingly, this is the most popular of the grand gateways and is seemingly always lined with locals lying making the most of the cool wind.  

The entrance from Hawa Pol leads into Dasera Chowk beneath the fort palace.  And to the right of Hawa Pol is the historic announcement balcony. 

  • Tip: Inside Hawa Pol, look up (or don’t) to see the many bats also hanging in the shade of the windy gate. 
Hawa Pol entrance to Jaisalmer fort.
Hawa Pol and the impressive announcement balcony above.
Things to see in Jaisalmer fort.
Locals (and a few extras) enjoying the cool breeze of Hawa Pol.

5. Dasera Chowk – public square – things to see in Jaisalmer fort 

Hawa Pol leads on into Dashera Chowk, the most popular public square of the fort.  

If you turn around inside the busy square to look back towards the gate you will see Kali temple to your left, d3ecoratef with flags.  And in front, the steps up to the palace entrance of Maharaja Mahal. 

The busy Deshara Chowk inside Jaisalmer fort, looking back towards the palace.
The busy Deshara Chowk inside Jaisalmer fort, looking back towards the palace.
The temple inside the main public square dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali.
The temple inside the main public square dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali.

6. Canon Point – viewpoint 

The fort offers stunning views of the surrounding desert landscape, but the best view of the city is from Canon Point.  As you enter Dashera Chowk continue upwards and take the small road to your left.  This eventually leads via a narrowing laneway to an epic lookout from what is referred to as Canon Point. 

From here you can see the sprawling city below from what the forts oldest canon.

Views from canon point in Jaisalmer fort.
Views from canon point high above Jaisalmer Fort.

7. Maharaja Mahal – Royal Palace – things to see in Jaisalmer fort 

The Maharajah Palace above the main entrance to the inner fort courtyard has a fantastic audio tour.  For us this was the highlight of the fort and we recommend this as a first stop on your visit. 

This was historically the residence of Jaisalmer’s royalty and rulers.  Though today, the palace has been carefully transformed and restored to a modern museum.  The layout and audio tour gives a great guide to the old city pointing out things to see in Jaisalmer fort and inside the palace.  

The audio tour consists of 30 short information points taking around 40 – 45 minutes.  It is very well done and not overbearing or over-informative like some tours can be. 

The palace itself is stunning and gives a bit more of a real-feel insight into how life in this grand fort city might once have been. 

Concentration on the very well done audio tour at Maharaja Palace inside the fort.
Concentration on the very well done audio tour at Maharaja Palace inside the fort.
The royal umbrellas are a symbol of Jaisalmer and are on the Jaisalmer flag.
The red and yellow royal umbrellas are a symbol of Jaisalmer and are on the Jaisalmer flag.

8. Palace Lookout – viewpoint

One of the best vantage points of the fort is from the top rooftop of Maharaja Mahal. From here the views are sweeping and almost 360 degrees with the fort behind and the city sprawling below.

Views over Ake Pol, the main first entrance to the fort.
Views over Ake Pol, the main first entrance to the fort.
Looking down to Suraj Pol and Ganesh Gate from the rooftop balcony of the palace.
Looking down to Suraj Pol and Ganesh Gate from the rooftop balcony of the palace.

9. Jain Temple / Shree Chandraprabhu Swami Ji Temple

Religion was another of Jaisalmer’s historic traits that flourished under the many rulers of the city.  

Although Hinduism was professed they were tolerant of Jainism and encouraged the construction of the beautiful Jain temples within the fort walls. Within the fort there are seven yellow sandstone Jain temples.  

The largest and most extravagant of the Jain temples is Chandraprabhu built in 1509.  Inside around the main inner courtyard (drum) are 12 statues of Ganesh.  No mortar was used in the construction of the whole temple.  Instead the blocks of masonry are held together by iron staples. 

  • Tip: A ticket for entrance to the Jain temple costs 300 INR.  Shoes, all leather items and water bottles must be removed before entering. 
A Jain monk in colourful but simple dress inside the temple.
A Jain monk in colourful but simple dress inside the temple.
The intricately carved roof inside Shree Chandraprabhu Temple.
The intricately carved roof inside Shree Chandraprabhu Temple.

10. Laxminath and Surya Temple – Things to see in Jaisalmer Fort

Laxminath Temple is a Hindu temple in the middle of Jaisalmer Fort.  The temple is recognisable with its brightly decorated dome.  Although the style is much simpler than the neighbouring styled Jain temples. 

The entrance is impressive with sculpted silver architrave around the doorway to the main inner sanctum. And both the external and internal doorways and the main shrine inside are heavily garlanded with brightly coloured offerings. 

  • Tip: There is no charge to enter the Laxminath Temple.
Inside the colourful Laxminath Temple in Jaisalmer fort.
Inside the colourful Laxminath Temple in Jaisalmer fort.
A devotee ringing the bell before entering Laxminath Temple to pray.
A devotee ringing the bell before entering Laxminath Temple to pray.

11. Dhobi Ghat – Public Laundry – Things to see in Jaisalmer fort

This is one of the lesser listed but interesting things to see in Jaisalmer fort. 

Within the residential area is an old public laundry.  Historically, washers, known as Dhobis, would work here in the open to clean linen and laundry from the palace and residences within the fort. 

Public laundry area in Rajasthan.
There is a small open-air washing area fitted with its own flogging stone. 

12. Manak Chowk – Jaisalmer fort market 

The labyrinth of laneways inside Jaisalmer fort is a great historical outing.  But the fort is home to 3000 residents and the winding lanes offer a mixture of local and touristic market shopping too. 

You will undoubtedly be approached by more than the odd keen salesman throughout the market.  But a wander through is worth the eager interruptions. 

The small market shops showcase a variety of textiles – some genuine and others less so – from silk fabrics to wool and cotton.  There are locally made artworks and carvings as well as traditional Rajasthani garments and souvenir shopping. 

Bobby is a well-known shop owner inside the Jaisalmer fort promoting handmade crafts by women.
Bobby is a well-known shop owner inside the Jaisalmer fort promoting handmade crafts by women.

13. Jaisalmeri Wedding Invitations – things to see in Jaisalmer fort

Wedding invitations in Jaisalmer take the form of murals.   This wall art is part of a tradition that has been around for centuries and one that contributes to the uniqueness of the city and fort culture. 

At the entrance of almost every house within the fort is a painting of Lord Ganesha, the Lord of New Beginnings and the deity worshipped before embarking on anything auspicious.  

  • Tip: Look out for the wedding invite murals announcing the wedding date and inviting one and all. 
A wedding invitation mural in Jaisalmer fort featuring Ganesh (and a resident sacred cow).
A wedding invitation featuring Ganesh (and a resident sacred cow).
Wedding invitation mural
An invitation for a wedding in Jaisalmer on 23.04.2024.

Jaisalmer is famous for its textiles.  

And this place – the family-owned Desert Art Gallery – is one of the reasons we keep returning to Jaisalmer.  Bhawani and his brother Sawai have created what is the largest collection of textiles and handicrafts, carpets, rugs, and patchwork wall hangings all from the nomadic tribes and gypsies of the region. 

As any traveller to India knows there are many imitations and potential traps as far as souvenir shopping.  But this gallery is something Jaisalmer can be very proud of.  All these fragile antiques have been collected and lovingly repurposed to create original and unique items.  

  • You will find Desert Art Gallery just inside the fort to the left of the original Ganesh Pol gate.  Or if you ask, anyone will point you in their direction. 
Incredible artefacts and textiles in Desert Art Gallery inside the Jaisalmer fort.
Incredible artefacts and textiles in Desert Art Gallery inside the Jaisalmer fort.
Go and see Bhawani for a chai and a chat to learn more about this incredible golden city. Desert Art Gallery.
Go and see Bhawani for a chai and a chat to learn more about this incredible golden city.

The verdict? And how much time do you need for the things to see in Jaisalmer fort?

The Jaisalmer fort is an inspiring experience of history and culture in Rajasthan.  Obviously, it is the standout feature, towering grandly over the modern city outside and visible from all around.  But a wander inside the fort is a unique way to experience the Golden City independently.  

Not much has changed in the historic Golden Fort.  And therein, is its greatest charm.  Be sure to allow a morning or a golden afternoon and sunset to enjoy this incredible marvel. 

Are there toilets inside Jaisalmer Fort?

Yes.  There are public toilets for 2 INR just on the top end of the main square.  Until 1995 there were no toilets inside the fort. 

What is the best way of getting to Jaisalmer?

Jaisalmer Railway Station (JSM) is the end of the railway line. But the city is well connected with daily trains to and from Jodhpur, Jaipur, Delhi and beyond. 

There are three main trains to Jaisalmer:

  • RANIKHET EXP (15014)
  • SHALIMAR EXP (14646)
  • LEELAN EXP (12468)

Traveling from Jaipur to Jaisalmer by train takes between 12 – 15 hours.  From Delhi the journey is 18 – 20 hours.  

The train from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer should take around 6 – 7 hours. 

Buses are another option to get to Jaisalmer if the arrival hours of the trains don’t appeal.  

Jodhpur is the closest major city connecting Jaisalmer.  There are hourly buses from Jaisalmer to Jodhpur departing during the day.  The journey is around 6 hours by bus. And there are two daily buses (06:00H and 14:00H) that depart from Jaisalmer to Bikaner. 

Flights to Jaisalmer operate in the tourist season (winter) from October to March.  But for the rest of the year there are no commercial flights to Jaisalmer.

What about other things to do in Jaisalmer?

Now after an accumulated several months in Jaisalmer its unanimous.  It is our favourite place in India and somewhere that we know we will keep on returning to.  

And so, in some hope to pay forward the joy this magical Golden City and its people bring to us on each trip, we have created what we hope to be the ultimate guide to all the best things to do – including the best camel safari in Jaisalmer – and the sights not to miss during your visit.

On camel safari in Jaisalmer with Wanderlust Guesthouse.
On camel safari in Jaisalmer with Wanderlust Guesthouse.

Where to stay – choosing accommodation in Jaisalmer 

An important note to consider when choosing accommodation in Jaisalmer, is that 

As tempting as it is to stay within the walls of Jaisalmer fort, the fort is in serious threat of damage by ground erosion.  With the increased demand for water to cater to hotels and accommodation inside the fort as tourism has grown, the original infrastructure and drainage systems are overwhelmed and causing erosion to the forts foundations. 

It is recommended for this reason to opt for accommodation in the city and enjoy an outing for the things to see in Jaisalmer fort. 

Wanderlust Guesthouse is a small accommodation outside of the Fort and in walking distance to all the things to do in Jaisalmer within the old city.  We stay there every time we visit Jaisalmer.  And at risk of sounding repetitive, it is our favourite place to stay in India!  Not only for the comfortable, clean rooms but because of the small restaurant and delicious meals that Padam and his team deliver every time. 

If you are nervous about trying new food in Jaisalmer or street food in India in general, this is the perfect place to do it.  

The small, rooftop restaurant at Wanderlust Guesthouse has a great menu with homecooked Indian dishes, region-specific dishes from Rajasthan and the Thar Desert, and the best lassis in town.  Or if you are feeling the need for something familiar there are options for simple but tasty pasta and toasted sandwiches. 

More about travel planning for India and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime. 

  • Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. 
  • Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
  • GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
  • SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
  • World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). 

Oscar, Sarah, Harry and Gavin

Hi! We are the Steiners.
We’re a family from New Zealand with a love of travel and adventure – especially where it takes us off the beaten track!

We’ve been travelling full-time for over five years now all around the world and our favourite thing is to share that joy of adventure. This site is our way of paying it forward with all the tips and tricks we have learnt along the way. 

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