Jordan travel guide: A complete guide to travel in Jordan with kids.

Travel in Jordan just sounds intriguing. Add travel in Jordan with kids to the mix and you have the ultimate Middle Eastern family travel adventure!

We jump at any chance of overland travel and were initially excited by the opportunity – and challenge(!) – of backpacking over the border and entering Jordan from Israel. That and the promise of seeing the wonderous Petra in real life (one of the Wonders of the World that seems less known about/publicised – at least where we’ve grown up).

We were intrigued by the desert and the vibrant colours that stretch for miles. And we wanted to see a glimpse of Bedouin culture… (it really couldn’t feel much further than from New Zealand!).

• Why visit Jordan with kids? 
• Visas
• Best time to visit
• Getting to Jordan
• Language
• Places to see
  – Amaan
  – Petra and Wadi Musa 
  – Wadi Rum
  – Jerash
  – Umm Qais 
• What to wear
• Safety
• Health
• Food in Jordan
• Drinking water
• Money
• Budget
• Transport in Jordan with kids
• Connectivity and wifi
• Accommodation
• Where we stayed
• More about Jordan

What is so special about visiting Jordan with kids? 

Jordan is a great destination to visit with kids.  History and wonders of the world aside, the people of Jordan are welcoming and friendly and there’s a varied natural landscape that children can fully immerse themselves in and explore.

Weather-wise it isn’t too extreme for comfortable travel in Jordan with kids.  And the food of Jordan is not too spicy or strong-flavoured. 

And it certainly doesn’t take long to meet people in Jordan… The boys were up on the back of a donkey with neighbouring kids before we’d even checked into our homestay!  

Before we left New Zealand, routine and bedtimes were one of those slight quibbles with planning for full-time travel. When you are caught up in that fast-moving wheel of routine-life with work, school and everything else it is hard to imagine taking the risk to break routine or even make it flexible sometimes… [If we could tell our pre-travel-selves that this would seriously not be something to worry about; I wonder if we would even have believed it?].

But through travel and being together we fell into routine that actually suits us; and works for US. 

AND if 7:00pm was always bedtime we would miss out on moments like in Jordan, where the whole Bedouin village comes alive after dinner. There are donkeys walking around and families sitting on their doorsteps drinking tea and listening to music while the kids play in the street.

Sometimes you have to throw caution to the wind and grab that opportunity or you miss out on mint tea and new friends!

About Jordan, just quickly 

• Official name: The Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan
• Capital: Amman
• Language: Arabic
• Currency: Jordanian Dinar (JOD)
• Religion: Sunni Islam with a Christian minority
• Climate: Mediterranean through to arid desert
• Driving side: Right 
• Electrics: Plug type(s!) C, D, F, G and J; 220/230V AC, 50Hz

Visas for Jordan 

Most nationalities are routinely issued with a single-entry visa on arrival at Jordan airports, as well as at some land and sea borders.  If you arrive at Aqaba, the visa is free.  Anywhere else is costs JD40 (USD $58) and is payable in cash (Jordanian dinar only).  

• Note: If you plan to enter Jordan for the first time via the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge, or via the crossing from Eilat to Aqaba, you must already hold a visa – they are not issued at these crossing points.  

And here’s the catch.  The visa fee is waived if you hold the Jordan Pass.  (More about this below).  

About the Jordan Pass 

The Jordan Pass is a sightseeing package with options for included entry to over forty sights and included visa fees.  

It is not a visa for Jordan but it does waive the visa fees if you stay a minimum of 3 nights in the country.  

Petra, Jerash, Wadi Rum and the Amman Citadel are some of the sights included in the pass. Read all the details on the official Jordan Pass website.

There are three different package options and costs for the Jordan Pass:

• JD70 (inc. 1 day at Petra)
• JD75 (inc. 2 days at Petra)
• JD80 (inc. 3 days at Petra)

What is the best time to visit Jordan?

Because the landscape is so varied Jordan almost has something for everyone all year round… Amman, Petra and Wadi Rum all lie well over 800m above sea level and the Dead Sea is right down at 400m below sea level.

However, I feel as confident to assume that if you are planning a trip to Jordan with kids the chances are you aren’t aiming at a peaceful week of lounging in the scorching sun beside the Red Sea (sorry). 

In which case the best time to visit Jordan weather-wise is in the spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November).

Over 90% of Jordan is covered by desert so the summers are red hot.  The beaches of Aqaba and the Dead Sea can reach 40°C in July.  But the sands of Wadi Rum can drop below 0°C in winter. 

We visited Jordan with the kids in October and found it to be pretty much perfect temperature-wise. It was hot during the daytime but not unbearable and it was pleasant to enjoy evenings in the village with the kids.

Getting to Jordan 

We entered Jordan with kids overland via the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge crossing from Israel (with a pre-purchased Jordan Pass). I have written an entire guide to our border crossing experience (and the worst noise ever) which you can read here.

Jordan’s main international Airport is Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) in Amman. Aqaba International Airport (AQJ) is located in the south of the country on the Red Sea in Aqaba.

European Low Cost flights often fly into Aqaba on a seasonal basis offering the resort area as a getaway for Europeans looking to escape winter.

Language

Arabic is the official and most widely used language in Jordan. English is widely used in the larger cities (Amman and Aqaba) and it is possible to get around Jordan without needing to be fluent in Arabic. But like anywhere we travel around the world, attempting a basic phrase always makes you seem more approachable and friendly to the locals.

A few basic Arabic phrases that are used commonly in Jordan:

• Hello: Salam
• How are you? Keef halak? (m) Keef halek? (f)
• Thank you: Shukran
• Yes: Na’am
• No: La’a
• Goodbye: Ma’assalama

Places to visit and our itinerary in Jordan with kids

We arrived overland from Israel and headed to Amman first. From there we drove south to Wadi Musa, Petra and Wadi Rum and then north to Jerash and Umm Qais.

• Allenby Bridge/Israel border > bus/shuttle/taxi > Amman Airport
• Amman Airport > rental car > Amman
• Amman > rental car > Wadi Musa/Umm Sayhoun
• Umm Sayhoun > 4×4/donkey > Petra
• Umm Sayhoun > 4×4 > Wadi Rum
• Wadi Rum > rental car > Dead Sea
• Dead Sea > Amman > Jerash > Umm Qais > Amman

Amman

Amman has been the political and cultural capital of the nation since the establishment of the Kingdom of Jordan in 1946.  The city has been home to ancient Roman and Byzantine civilisations and so is steeped with history.  But it has a modern buzz and is easy to navigate as a traveller.  

The biggest challenge about exploring Amman was the traffic.  (You can take my word for it that roundabouts in a rental car are not relaxing at rush-hour!). 

Things to do in Amman 

• Amman Citadel: Dating back over a 4000 year history the citadel ahs been occupied by Byzantines, Persians, Romans and Greeks.  
• Visit the Souks: We visited Souk Jara which is a large open-air craft market. 
• Amman Bazaar: Not far from the King Hussein Mosque; this is a touristy bazaar but a good place to pick up souvenirs if you have room. 
• Roman Amphitheatre: A beautifully restored amphitheatre that used to hold 6000 spectators back in its day. 

Petra 

Petra; capital of the Nabatean Kingdom is one of the most special (wondrous) places to visit on the planet.  

It took us an hour hiking in before breakfast (and we clocked up 11km over the course of the day). But sunrise at The Monastery with very few people around, was spectacularly wonderful. The kids played in the sand and we sat drinking Bedouin mint tea, trying our best to take in this Wonder of the World…

We sometimes talk about whether the sense of ‘wonderment’ changes with full-time travel… Can you really see too many temples? Or too many natural sights in a row to be wowed-out? [We hope we don’t ever find that out]. 

But right then Petra certainly had the WOW-FACTOR. 

We spent three days exploring the ancient Kingdom.  It was beautiful following the trail of the natural Siq canyon and scrambling up the rocky paths to find tombs and caves we could go right in to. The Treasury monument is every bit as majestic as it looks in pictures; and although we didn’t think we could do it with the kids, we climbed right up to the lookout. 

It was an unusual feeling to be surrounded so many tourists after choosing a travel route through Central Asia off the beaten track. But even with the crowds (and even more so with the people-watching!) it is worth it and truly wonderous.

Things not too miss while visiting Petra

• Bab As-Siq: Actually the train that runs from the ticket booth to the Siq (casually alongside millennia-old tombs and monuments). 
• Siq: A naturally formed gorge with a pathway snaking through two huge rock plates. (Watch out for the horse carts!).
• The Treasury: This is the most iconic and famous drawcard to Petra. Climb (carefully) up above for incredible views looking down. 
• The Monastery: Best views at sunrise with fewer people around. Or ask your host about entering through the back way…
• Street of Facades: Tombs and houses built into the sandstone mountains by the Nabateans (over 2000 years ago). 

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a protected desert wilderness in southern Jordan.  And it’s enormous.  A desert so vast and with colours that change from warm to red to orange in each direction we looked! 

We arranged two days in Wadi Rum with our AirBnB host and it was a great choice.  It wasn’t like being on an organised tour as we stopped whenever we saw something we wanted to explore.  Rizek was a great guide showing us his favourite places in Wadi Rum but also stopping at random road stops en route that we would never have known about. 

Exploring any part of Jordan is so unlike home that it never ceases to feel exciting and adventurous.  But seeing the stars from the pitch black of the desert is so different that it makes both daytime and night-time beautiful and sort of eerily powerful at the same time…

Things to do (and admire – and taste) in Wadi Rum

• Stop for Bedouin tea: Drinking tea is a major part of Bedouin culture and how they welcome in their guests. When in Rome Wadi Rum…
• Climb a rock bridge: Umm Fruth (smaller than Burdah Rock Bridge) is only a short scramble from the base up the surrounding rock and makes for fantastic photos.
• Run down the sand dunes: The kids loved this. Bring a sunhat, wear long sleeves – and let them run free!
• Ride a camel: A camel ride is one of the best ways to experience Wadi Rum (like a Bedouin). Talk to your guide and pre-arrange or take a short ride by the rock bridge.
• Camp overnight in Wadi Rum: The best part of all!

Jerash and Umm Qais 

Jerash is a historical city north of Amman. It’s known for the ruins of the walled Greco-Roman settlement of Gerasa just outside the modern city of what is Jerash today.

Located further northwest near the border with Syria and Israel, Umm Qais is home to another ancient city, Gadara, that shares a similar history with Jerash.

Both sites are incredible to walk around and wonder at the 2000+ year old history of each town.  There are basalt columns, amphitheatres and other stone buildings from the Roman period. 

Umm Qais is about 1.5 hours north of Jerash but worth visiting if you have time.  (And a cool road trip through the small surrounding villages to get there).  From inside Umm Qais you will have panoramic views of the Golan Heights and Sea of Galilee at the Jordan/Israel/Syria border.

Click here to read our full guide to visiting Umm Qais (and road-tripping in north Jordan with kids!). 

Things to do (and see) in Jerash and Umm Qais 

• Jerash Hippodrome: Wander among the splendid ruins of Jerash’s main attraction, the Hippodrome built for spectator sports.
• Temple of Artemis: Believed to have been the most important place of worship in the ancient city of Gerasa (now Jerash) the temple is still impressive for its sheer scale today.
• Walk inside the amphitheatres: Both Jerash and Umm Qais have impressive amphitheatres in excellent condition due to the dry climate they are located.
• View the Sea of Galilee: Israel’s largest freshwater lake (visible from Umm Qais, Jordan) also known as Lake Tiberias is the place where according to the Bible Jesus is said to have walked on water.
• Sight Israel and Syria from Jordan: Umm Qais sits high on the cliff overlooking the Sea of Galilee (Israel), the Jordan Valley and the Golan Heights (Syria) region.

What to wear in Jordan 

Jordan is somewhere you need to consider culture and practicality in planning what to wear.  In the modern cities Jordanians have a conservative kind of dress code.  Men wear pants even in the heat of summer and women are elegantly but conservatively dressed. 

For women, as a general rule keep shoulders, arms and chest and legs covered as much as possible.  Men have slightly more flexibility.  

For travel in Jordan with kids the main consideration is the weather.  Lightweight clothing is ideal for the temperature and sun protection.  Young girls are fine in skirts or dresses but older girls should be dressed more conservatively.  Boys are fine to wear shorts and t-shirts.  And definitely at the beach or pool appropriate swimwear must be worn.  Don’t let the kids loose to splash around their undies!

Travel safety in Jordan with kids

Travel in Jordan with kids is generally regarded as safe.  And from our personal experience, we felt safe the entire of our visit.  The major sights of Jordan are extraordinary, the food is incredible and people are unbelievably kind.

But given its position in the Middle East between Israel, Iraq and Syria there are safety warnings to be aware of.  Check for updates and any recommendations from your government before you visit.  

Health

No immunizations or vaccinations are required to enter Jordan.

However as an update in today’s climate the Covid-19 vaccination is recommend for travel to almost all regions, foreign and domestic. 

As with anywhere in Asia or Middle East be proactive travelling in Jordan with kids and take sensible measures to prevent any diseases transmitted by contaminated food and water.  And certainly in the hot desert climate keep kids well hydrated and out of the direct sun.   

Food in Jordan

Middle Eastern food is world famous for a very good reason.  And Jordanian food is as diverse and varied as its culture, history and landscapes.  It’s exciting to learn about and even more so to try. 

If you are being fed by your homestay or guesthouse hosts the only cutlery on the table will likely be a spoon (for rice or soupy dishes).  But the best part about that is you can eat with your fingers.  

It is customary in Jordan to eat with your right hand (the left hand is traditionally used for toilet purposes).  But don’t panic if you need the support of a spoon or your left hand for tricky shovelling manoeuvres.  If you are traveling in Jordan with kids you can give them a heads-up about this (depending on their age) and show them how to use flaps or pockets of flat-bread in place of cutlery.  

Food to try in Jordan with kids

The boys loved drinking Jordanian tea with local kids each evening. And they were always happy with warm, fresh flat breads.  It wouldn’t be hard to choose 10 foods to recommend you try in Jordan…

• Mint tea: black tea served with fresh mint leaves
• Mansaf: meat cooked with basmati rice or bulgur wheat, yoghurt and spices.
• Sharwarma: slow-cooked meat wrapped in bread
• Shish Kebabs: minced lamb grilled on a huge sword-like skewer
• Hummus: puree of chickpeas and ingredients blended to perfection 
• Falafel: ground chickpeas and spices deep fried into a mini patty/ball. 
• Shrak: Jordanian flat bread that is ubiquitous there
• Labneh: strained, thick and creamy yoghurt
• Tabbouleh: (yum!) a finely minced salad of parsley, tomatoes and garlic
• Hareesh: a sweet made with semolina 

If our boys were to select their favourites (aside from mint tea) to recommend for your trip to Jordan with kids, they reckon shrak and shish kebabs.  Jordanian culture is very kind and people loved interacting with the kids.  Fresh bread, mint tea and happy kids… 

Drinking water

Although locals drink water freely from the tap in Jordan it is recommended to avoid drinking unfiltered tap water while you’re visiting. 

Hotels above three stars will likely have filtration systems in place but if you’re staying in guesthouses and AirBnB’s as we did; you will need to purchase water or filter drinking water yourself. 

Recycling facilities for plastics are few and far between.  It’s not ideal but you don’t want to get sick.  If you have a filtered water bottle definitely add it to the packing list. 

Money

Currency in Jordan is the Jordanian Dinar (JD/JOD). 

Notes come in denominations of 1, 5, 10, 20 and 50 dinar with coins of 1, 5, 10, 25 and 50 piastres.  

ATM’s are available throughout Jordan and credit cards are widely used (especially in larger city hotels).  Banks have large signs in Arabic and English indicating ATM’s and which credit cards they accept.  Visa is the most widely accepted; followed by MasterCard. (Do make note of this if you travel only with the latter).  

Be sure to plan ahead and carry some smaller denominations, especially out of the cities.  We found on some of the long drives (like really long) we pulled in to tiny roadside stores in what felt like the middle of nowhere to stock up on snacks (or lunch demands from the kids!). 

Budget

While some countries in the Middle East are quite inexpensive to travel; Jordan is not one of them.

A bottle of water costs about JD2 inside Petra which equates to USD $2.90. But street food is cheap and renting your own car is a cost that will ultimately help to keep expenses down while travelling in Jordan.

• Water (1.5L bottle): JD 0.40 (or JD2 inside Petra)
• Coke/Pepsi (can): JD1 / US $1.50
• Plate of falafel: JD3 / US $4.50
• Bowl of hummus (fuul): JD0.75 / US $1.20
• Fresh bread (khubez): JD0.50 / US $0.70
• Sharwarma sandwich (takeaway): JD2 / US $3
• Lunch in local restaurant: JD5-10 / US $7 – 14
• Buffet-style dinner at Wadi Rum Bedouin Camp: JD10 / US $14
• Taxi from Petra to Wadi Musa: JD 5 / US $7
• Taxi (King Hussein/Allenby Border to Amman Airport): JD30 / US $42 

Getting around Jordan with kids

We hired a car through rentalcars.com and picked it up on arrival at Amman International Airport. We actually arrived in Jordan overland (via foot and bus from Israel) but ended up getting a taxi from the border to the airport to pick up our rental car right away. 

Jordan is a huge country with a massive distance spanning between the major destinations. We felt pleased we’d chosen to hire a car with the freedom to explore Jordan (with kids especially) at our own pace.

Renting a small car to travel Jordan with kids should cost around JD15 – 30 per day (USD $21 – 42).  We hired a Toyota Yaris through the Avis supplier at Amman Airport (via rentalcars.com).  It worked out to cost JD 16 p/day (around USD $23) for the hire. 

I reckon a rental car for Jordan is definitely the way to go!

Internet, connectivity and WIFI

Buying a local SIM card in Jordan is fairly simple and cost worthy. It’s easy if you are flying in to Amman International Airport (or crossing overland from Israel via Allenby Bridge it’s easy to stop at the airport) to get a SIM card at the mobile phone shop in the arrivals area.

The main mobile phone providers in Jordan are Zain, Orange and Umniah.  Zain has the best options aimed at foreign visitors and it’s easy to get it set up and ready to roll at the airport before you set off. 

A package that includes data, minutes and text can be purchased from Zain for as little as 9JD (USD $13) and will likely have enough minutes and data to last a month. (If not, top ups can be purchased at any shop with a Zain sign in the window).

Accommodation in Jordan

Jordan has accommodation options that range from camping (in the Wadi Rum desert, mind) to AirBnB and mid-range motels to international-standard luxury five-star hotels on the Dead Sea shoreline. 

We mostly aim to travel on a budget and choose either budget or mid-range accommodation options. (Although we never mind paying a little bit more for an interesting experience). Traveling in Jordan with kids we made the most of AirBnB and apartment-style mid-range accommodation in the city. But our unofficial accommodation-goal in Jordan was to camp in Bedouin style tents in Wadi Rum…

Camping in Wadi Rum

Aside from striking desert landscapes in Wadi Rum the key attractions are local Bedouin-style camps where you can stay as a tourist.  Albeit these have evolved rather and ours did have a modern bathroom and carpeted bedroom.  But there are an impressive range of camp options in the desert. 

Evenings are a special time with a traditional Bedouin meal cooked and sunset in the desert. We climbed the nearby rock lookout and pinched ourselves how far from real life we were lucky enough to be right at that exact golden moment.

Mid-range hotels and AirBnB

Hotels in Jordan range grandly in levels of cost and luxury. We found a mid-range apartment style hotel in Amman where we had a full kitchen and were close enough to walk to a supermarket and self-cater during our stay.

In Petra (Wadi Musa) hotels are particularly abundant and it’s easy to book in advance online. There are all kinds of budget, economic and 5-star hotels available here.

But if you are looking for a unique experience out of the city I would recommend staying in one of the available guest houses run by local families (where they serve delicious homemade food and have a local feel!).  The connections we made with children and families in the village we stayed will be memories we treasure forever. 

Where we stayed in Jordan with kids

• Amman: Arabian Suites [apartment block with 2 and 3 bedroom apartments; close to supermarket].
• Umm Sayhoun (Petra): Petra Family House in Umm Sayhoun [awesome Bedouin family apartment! Rizek the host took us to Wadi Rum for two days, and we then spent three days exploring Petra from our base in the village]. Wadi Musa is the main town to visit Petra but we really enjoyed the quieter, smaller village of Umm Sayhoun only 10 minutes drive away and much closer to the back entrance to Petra. (We recommend this option to start at the Monastery and walk down anyway). Make sure to check it is the right one as there are lots of similar names. Host Rizek will make sure you are well looked after and you will become part of the neighbourhood by the evening!
• Wadi Rum: Wadi Rum Dream Camp And it really did feel dreamlike camping in a Bedouin tent in the Jordanian desert! Our guesthouse organised this stay for us complete with traditional dinner, music and shisha in the evening. Check it out… 

One thing that challenged us in Jordan

Making the ethical decision where donkeys were concerned; AND their child handlers was a challenge traveling in Jordan.  (Because seriously, how COOL are donkeys?!).   

We ended up staying next door to a family with nine donkeys and even though the boys played and rode every day, the highlight was being given a donkey for the kids to ride solo on our second big day at Petra! [‘We’ve scored a donkey!’].

There’s no other description but that it was embarrassing to see so many overweight tourists riding around on tiny donkeys at Petra, taking selfies and having a grand old laugh. 

I anticipate a time will come when there will be no donkeys allowed at Petra for this very reason.  Which is confusing – and sad – because they fit the landscape so well and truly are amazing little animals. 

But for now?

For now, we enjoyed having days that started with donkeys braying and ended with drinking mint tea as they wandered by in the village. 

It felt really special to have time to learn about them and we enjoyed seeing our boys help wash them down after a hot day. (They really are the perfect size for little donkey handlers.  And thankfully children have a naturally caring nature – exactly as they deserve).

We were happy to know that the kids from the family next door go to school and help work with their donkeys on their days off and after school. (Confirmed – because we even saw the 9 year old boy studying at home and not allowed to come to Petra until after lunch on a Friday!). This is one of the worries of encouraging young kids as donkey handlers in tourism around the world. (Well that, and the seriously embarrassing moments we saw grossly overweight Western tourists riding donkeys up the steep steps towards the Monastery…). [*Shudder].

Do your research; and make a good decision.

Reflecting on our time in Jordan with the kids

Travel in Jordan with kids definitely exceeded our expectations of a destination for travel.  Jordanians are incredibly friendly people and very welcoming of families.  The history is amazing and the varied natural landscapes are unique and exciting to explore with kids. 

I would highly recommend travel in Jordan as a family.  Meet people, ride donkeys, enjoy all the Bedouin tea you can drink – and enjoy incredible Jordan – with kids!

More useful links for your travels in Middle East and beyond…

These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel. 

• Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally. (We love the flexible cancellation policy!). 
• Hostelworld– The largest inventory of hostel accommodation in the world. 
• Skyscanner – This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.  
• GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
• SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country. 
• World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). 

Read more about travel in the Middle East 

• Saudi Arabia Travel Guide: Everything you need to know about visiting KSA.
• Visiting Umm Qais in Jordan
• Crossing overland from Israel to Jordan (and the worst noise ever).
• UAE with kids: Three Emirates in three days.
• Oman with kids: Road-tripping and wadi-jumping…
• Quick tips for visiting the Sheik Al Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi with kids.