If you are debating whether to add Bikaner onto your Rajasthan itinerary, it’s a fair question. There are some of the things to do in Bikaner that verge further towards bizarre than otherwise. And obviously if you are heading to India there are hundreds of places to visit and choices to make…
But Bikaner, is one that surprised us. And I feel oddly confident even describing – and perhaps because of – the quirks of this small city that it will surprise you too.
It is understated in a way that is paradoxical in the otherwise flamboyant state of Rajasthan. It is brimming with history and culture, with historic havelis and palaces to rival any of India’s cities of the past Maharaja. But it is small enough to feel local and quirky with characteristics and camels and kulfi that make it truly unique.
And so, with all quirks, markets, mosques, temples and oddities included, here are the top things to do in Bikaner and why we reckon it is Rajasthan’s most understated city.
- About Bikaner
- Is it worth visiting?
- Location
- Best time to visit
- Things to do in Bikaner
– Rampuria Haveli
– Royal Gaitors
– Camel Research Farm
– Karni Mata Rat Temple
– Bhandshah Jain Temple
– Madina Masjid
– Station Road Market
– Bada Bazar
– Lallgarh Palace
– Junagarh Fort
– Sursagar Lake
– Kote Gate - Thoughts on Bikaner
- Do I need a guide?
- Getting around
- Getting there
- Where to stay
About Bikaner and the rich history of this Rajasthani desert city
For visitors, the town of Bikaner is a bit further off the main tourist trail. Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur together form the desert triangle in the west of the state of Rajasthan.
Bikaner was founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a descendant of Jodha, the founder of Jodhpur.
The city was a major centre of trade during the 15th and 16th century as it lies on the ancient caravan trading route which linked Central Asia and North India with the seaports of Gujarat to the south.
Today, Bikaner is known as the ‘City of Havelis’. The style of architecture of the old city and the incredible fort, palaces and Havelis display remains of the rich and wealthy history of this desert trading city.
It is also home to one of the world’s largest camel research and breeding farms which is open to visit. And as well as being known for having its own unique temple dedicated to Karni Mata and 25,000 holy rats…
Is it worth visiting? What is so special about Bikaner?
Without doubt Bikaner must be one of the most underrated cities we’ve visited in Rajasthan.
The old city is incredible. It’s filled with long-term markets where the same families have had stalls for generations. There are beautifully carved Havelis and mansions in the small alleyways, and streets of tiny chai shops and fast food stands that have been operating in just the same way for decades or more.
It doesn’t have the tourist hype of Jaipur or Jodhpur because it’s a little further and blissfully off the normal route. But it is a(nother) fantastic city in Rajasthan to explore with a kind of understated twist on the grandeur of the otherwise brazenly vibrant desert state…
Where exactly is Bikaner located in India anyway?
Bikaner is in northwest of the Indian state of Rajasthan.
The closest large Rajasthani cities are Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Jaipur. And Bikaner also connects north to the neighbouring state of Punjab and the cities of Ludhiana and Amritsar.
Like Jaisalmer, Bikaner is situated in the Thar Desert. It gets very hot in the summer months, although it is another popular place for an overnight camel safari in the desert.
When is the best time to visit Bikaner?
Like much of Rajasthan – and especially towards Jaisalmer and the Thar Desert – Bikaner gets extremely hot during the summer months. The best time to visit Bikaner is in the winter months from October to March.
As a foreigner it’s hard to believe, but even the desert state in India is affected during the monsoon months of July to September.
We visited Bikaner in July and encountered some serious monsoon rains. It doesn’t rain for long, but when it does rain – usually in the late afternoon – it pours down in the typical style of South Asian monsoon.
It’s tough to see the streets so flooded and the small kiosks and shops affected by the water in an instant. The roads just close and the water comes high up over the stormwater drains and (lack of) infrastructure for this level.
Bikaner is in the north of Rajasthan, and it is technically a desert town (when it’s not raining). So, the ground is dry, and it just can’t absorb that much rain so quickly.
But, for each of the rainy days we saw, it lasted less than an hour and life continued in Bikaner.
14 Things to do in Bikaner and what to make sure to add to your Bikaner itinerary
The small Rajasthani city of Bikaner is most famous for its Havelis, temples and Bhujia. But there are lots more cool things to do in Bikaner that make it worth a visit.
1. Rampuria Haveli / Bikaner Havelis
This is the most iconic of things to do in Bikaner. (Although, stand by, because there is one more that is particularly – and oddly – iconic too).
A Haveli is a historic Indian mansion style. And in Bikaner, the most well-known Haveli is the recognisably red Rampuria Haveli made of rose-coloured Dulmera sandstone.
In fact, it is a cluster of nine havelis that were built in the 15th century to befit the wealthy lifestyle of the merchant Rampuria family. And today, still, some of the internal Havelis are occupied and run by descendants of the Rampuria family.
But it is not just Rampuria Haveli to look out for. Bikaner is full of Havelis and old townhouses that were once the homes of rich merchant traders when the city was a major centre of trade on routes between India and Central Asia. Some of the Haveli’s are still resided in today and others in more dire condition but don’t forget to look up on your walk around the old city.
- Tip: The best place to capture the iconic photo of Rampuria Haveli is from the street on the corner of the curved Haveli building. You don’t need to go inside the Havelis for this.
2. Hotel Bihanwar Niwas / Bikaner Havelis
Oh yes, we’ve been dining in palaces in India!
One of the coolest things to do in Bikaner is to dine at the historic and palatial residence of Bhanwar Niwas Palace. This is part of the Rampuria Haveli as well.
The whole place is decorated in typical 1920ms style, and it truly does feel like stepping back in time of the luxury Maharaja of Rajasthan!
The Haveli is immaculately restored, and it has been set up as a beautiful hotel and accommodation including a restaurant that is open to visitors for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is still the current residence of the Rampuria family and is well worth a visit. Because everyone needs a suggestion of best things to do in Bikaner that includes lunching in palaces, right?
Bhanwar Niwas is full of character and history.
- Tip: Be sure to ask for a tour of the accommodation, even if you aren’t staying. The hotel is stunningly restored and in keeping with the beautiful architecture of Bikaner Havelis.
3. Karni Mata Temple / Bikaner Rat Temple
Now, with agreeably some disclosure needed for upcoming rat photos (there will be a few; sorry). This is one of the most iconic things to do in Bikaner. And as a visitor, there is no other way to describe it except that it is inordinately unique and seriously unusual…
In case you haven’t already heard about it, Karni Mata Mandir is famously known as Bikaner’s ‘Rat Temple’.
The Karni Mata temple is in Deshnok, about 30km from Bikaner, and is home to over 25,000 rats that inhabit the temple complex. The temple is dedicated to Karni Mata, a 15th century woman with extraordinary powers, believed as the reincarnation of the Goddess Durga. Worshippers believe that Karni Mata can return humans to earth, reincarnated as a rat, and later as human beings. And thus, the 25,000 rats at Bikaner’s rat temple are considered holy by thousands of visiting devotees.
Followers believe the sacred rats are the reincarnation of their own deceased relations. And so devotees come from all over India to worship Karni Mata and their deceased loved ones.
It is certainly a unique belief and one that as a visitor doesn’t become any less novel thinking about it – or visiting.
But for sure, this is one of the things to do in Bikaner that stands out. And definitely, it warrants an entire post of its own to explain a bit more (a lot more?) and why or whether and how to visit.
4. Bikaner Royal Cenotaphs / Bikaner Raj Parivar Vishram Grah
The Royal Cenotaphs (known as chattri) at Devi Kund Sagar in Bikaner has been the cremation grounds for the royal family of Bikaner since 1542 AD.
There are various styles of cenotaph commentating individual royal family members and they can be distinguished as male or female by the shape and design of the tomb.
The cenotaphs are considered as one of the finest examples of Rajasthani art and architecture, and thus Devi Kund Saga attracts large number of tourists every year as one of the main things to do in Bikaner.
However, it’s not just tourists visiting. Because of its beautifully detailed architecture it is also a popular place for wedding photography and pre-wedding photoshoots. We met some local students taking selfies and photographs on the evening we visited.
There isn’t much obvious information provided at the site about the history. But it is a peaceful and interesting site and one of the main cultural things to do in Bikaner.
- Tip: The cenotaphs are about 6km out of town and tricky to get transport from. It is worth getting a rickshaw to the cenotaphs but make sure you have a price quoted to wait and take you back to town.
5. ICAR National Research Centre On Camels / Bikaner Camel Farm and Camel Milk Parlour
The ICAR National Research Centre on Camels in Bikaner, is a Premier Research Centre of the Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) which is an autonomous organisation under the Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, for the Government of India.
The name is a mouthful. But essentially, because the camel is such an important animal component of the fragile desert eco-system, it has become an icon of adaptation in India, adapting to challenging ways of living in the arid desert regions.
The centre is the only one of its kind in Asia.
It’s an interesting outing and not far from the city. You can view the different breeds of camel, see them being milked and see the baby camels. There is a small museum with photos and facts. Although you will be offered a guided tour at the entrance, it is interesting to wander around for a look and despite not being particularly well signposted with information, we appreciated the peaceful farm surroundings.
The baby camels are very cute. But for us, the highlight of the camel farm was the ‘Camel Milk Parlour’. Here you can try camel-milk Kulfi. This is a traditional firm-textured Indian ice cream but made even more interesting with a taste of camel milk. I rate it as one of the coolest things to do in Bikaner for the camel-milk Kulfi!
- Tip: The camel farm is out of town and there aren’t waiting transport options back from the farm to Bikaner. Make sure to organise a round-trip by rickshaw from Bikaner to the camel farm and have the driver wait to take you back again.
5. Station Road Market / Things to do in Bikaner
The large market on Station Road in Bikaner is one of the biggest markets in the city. It’s not a specifically touristic market, which is a good thing in India and makes it more of an experience.
There is everything from clothing and accessories to furniture and home décor, Jooti shoes and leather products and more. And amongst the many local shops and stalls it also does have the largest range of handicrafts and souvenirs of anywhere we saw in Bikaner.
6. Bada Bazar Bikaner
This is smaller but very local market in Bikaner. Right in the middle of the old city is a chowk, a square, filled with fruit and vegetable stands and market shops that have been operating here for decades.
We learnt that these stalls are family owned and the space each family has been allocated is passed down from generation to generation. Even if one family is away and not set up at the market, the space is specifically theirs and cannot be used by others.
The bazar is particularly busy in the morning. It is a great time of day for a wander to take in some of the more local things to do in Bikaner.
7. Kote Gate
The historic Kote Gate is considered as the main entrance to Bikaner. It was originally built for the Maharaja of Bikaner, Ganga Signh and was part of the surrounding wall protecting the city. The word ‘Kote’ is derived from the word, ‘Parkota’ which means the wall of a city used for protection.
Today, it gives a glimpse of the old city with a blend of medieval and Mughal style of Rajasthani architecture. The location of the gate separates the old city and new city and is a busy market area of Bikaner.
8. Junagarh Fort
Rajasthan is the Indian state of palaces and forts. So it won’t come as a surprise traveling in Rajasthan, that one of the main things to do in Bikaner is another fort. There are a lot of forts, right?
The forts of Rajasthan reflect the elaborate, fortified seats of power of the Rajput princely states that flourished between the 10th and 18th centuries. And Junagarh Fort is another example of that grandeur and breathtaking architecture.
Junagarh Fort is just outside what is now the old city of Bikaner. It is a grand fort built in the 16th century by Raja Rai Singh, a general in the army of the Mughal emperor, Akbar. But the fort in fact was built around an original structure that was first commissioned in 1478 by Rao Bika. It was expanded with an internal palace, wider walls, huge bastions and a deep moat.
The fort was originally called Chintamani Fort. But when the royal family of Bikaner moved their residence to Lalgarh Palace in the 20th century, the fort was renamed as ‘Junagarh Fort’ which literally translates as ‘Old Fort’.
It is pleasant to walk around the fort and worth a ticket to enter and see the internal palaces. Bikaner itself isn’t as busy tourist-wise as other Rajasthani cities and so the fort is quieter and likewise isn’t as busy as other forts in Rajasthan.
- Tip: Entry to Junagarh Fort costs 300 INR for foreigners.
9. Sursagar Lake / Things to do in Bikaner
The Sur Sagar Lake is just beside Junagarh Fort. It was dug out during the reign of Maharaja Sur Singh in attempt to curb the water shortage in the region.
It makes more sense having seen the lakes in Udaipur, Jaipur, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur, that this was historically a way of maintaining a water source for the cities across Rajasthan. And for this reason, the lake is up there as one of the historic things to do in Bikaner.
However, Sursagar Lake is far from glamorous today. More so it gets a tick for interest. And for its proximity to the main entrance of Junagarh Fort. Perhaps it was the wrong season to admire the city’s water feature during the monsoon months. But the water reservoir wasn’t much to look at when we visited in July.
It requires a bit of imagination, but you get gist of what it once was and of how important the lake was for the city.
10. Lallgarh Palace / Laxmi Niwas Palace
Lallgarh Palace was built as a residence for Bikaner’s royal family. The royal family originally lived in what is now called Junagarh Fort and moved residence in the 20th century to Lallgarh Palace where they still occupy one wing.
Laxmi Niwas Palace is even older. It was built in the 19th century and was used as a residence of the Maharajas of Bikaner.
Today both palaces have been converted as heritage hotels. And similarly, like Hotel Bhanwar Niwas you can visit to have a look at the palaces even if you aren’t staying as a guest.
- Tip: See rates and availability to stay at Lallgarh Palace and Laxmi Niwas Palace.
11. Seth Bhandashah Jain Temple
Bhandashah Jain Temple in Bikaner is famous for its hand painted frescoes and ornamented interior mirror work. And yup; it is as amazing as it sounds. The temple is another of Bikaner’s surprises. It is humbling and quiet inside and the frescoes are bright and colourful and incredibly, the hand painting has been well preserved.
We were fortunate to meet the caretaker of the temple. It was fascinating to hear a few stories and facts about Jainism, and we took an unofficial tour of the temple with him.
According to legends, 40,000kg of Ghee (clarified butter) was used instead of water in preparing the mortar for the construction of this temple. How about that for a story worth considering?!
- Tip: Bhandashah Jain Temple is free to visit but it is kind/kind of expected to give a small donation to support the upkeep of the temple.
12. Madina Masjid / Things to do in Bikaner
Islam is the second most popular religion in Bikaner with approximately 20% of residents identifying as Muslim. And while Bikaner is ostensibly famous for the Hindu temple of Karni Mata and the beautiful Bhanda Shana Jain Temple. There are some magnificent mosques in the old city that warrant a place on any visitors list of things to do in Bikaner.
The striking green Madina Masjid in the heart of old city is a popular and functioning Sunni Mosque. Even from the outside the masjid is fascinating to see. On one side there is a historic clock that was traditionally to time the broadcast for the call to prayer.
It is possible to go up in one of the tall minarets of the mosque. Though it is seriously narrow and with stairs that wind up to the small balcony. However, the view is worth the climb, and it is a friendly and very local area of Bikaner to experience.
13. Food Street / Things to do in Bikaner
This was a highlight of things to do in Bikaner for us. Somewhere, not far from Bada Bazar in the heart of the old city is a bustling food street that every morning – as it has been operating for generations – sets up with fast-food type breakfast and snacks.
This is the busiest and jolliest atmosphere we experienced in Bikaner! It really feels alive and for locals it is clearly the place to be to get street food and a familiar start to the day. As a visitor it was a really cool experience.
We visited the food street on a morning tour with Atik from Prince Haveli and it was a truly unique local market. Those are the kind of experiences we look for in a new destination and this was a highlight of things to do in Bikaner for us.
14. Namkeen and Bikaneri Bhujia
Bikaner is famous for a salty, snack treat called ‘Bhujia’. It is a crispy snack prepared with gram flour and spices that looks a light-yellow colour, a bit like shredded chips.
The snack originates in Bikaner it is most known as Bikaneri Bhujia. But you might hear the term ‘Namkeen’ as well, which in Hindi, describes a small savoury snack dish.
You can try Bhujia at Bhikharam Chandmal near the Kote Gate or at the original Haldirams store which began as a small namkeen shop in Bikaner. Otherwise, there is an entire stretch of market fondly known as ‘Bhujia’ bazar. You won’t miss spotting namkeen on a walk around the old city!
As far as food-things to do in Bikaner, trying Bikaneri Bhujia is a must.
How long do you need to see all the things to do in Bikaner?
Bikaner is a small city by Indian standards. And many of the things to do in Bikaner are within the old city and on the city outskirts.
While you could see most of the things to do in Bikaner in one day, I recommend allowing two days in Bikaner to have time for the camel farm and Karni Mata temple (if you want!).
Do you need a guide for Bikaner?
A guide is not required for any part of visiting Bikaner. But like visiting any new city, we find we get so much more out of a place doing a first morning or half day with a guide.
We did a morning tour seeing the first things to do in Bikaner with the host from our accommodation at Prince Haveli, Atik Ahmed.
Atik is born and raised in Bikaner and very passionate and knowledgeable about the city. We learnt a lot and loved the fact he really understood that we wanted to see more of the things to do in Bikaner that aren’t officially tourist sites.
One of the highlights for us was a walk through the old city including the morning food street and seeing the markets with him. We enjoyed the morning tour so much that the next day Gavin went out for an afternoon with Atik on his motorbike to see more.
- Atik Ahmed, Bikaner
+91 98290 05026
I do recommend a half-day or day tour to get the most out of your time in Bikaner. Just give Atik a message and let him know the dates of your intended stay.
Final thoughts and making the most of the things to do in Bikaner
Bikaner is totally underrated! We were pleasantly surprised. And despite the afternoon rains, we had a great time in Bikaner. There is loads to see and plenty of cool things to do in Bikaner that are totally unique.
If I was to compare it with any Rajasthani city, I would say in size and atmosphere it feels laid back like Jaisalmer. The history is incredible, and it has a proud sort of bustle and hustle to the old city that evoke wonder to just take a walk and take it all in.
The overall vibe is friendly. And the history and historic feel just walking around the old city through the markets and bazars, and past the incredible havelis is like nowhere else.
It is truly a gem in Rajasthan. And now, having lots of India to consider directions and destinations, we would recommend Bikaner for those wanting somewhere a bit different without getting too far-fetched.
Getting around
Most of the things to do in Bikaner around the old city are within walking distance of each other. The Fort is in walking distance as well. But to get to the camel farm and royal cenotaphs it is easiest to get an auto rickshaw.
The camel farm and cenotaphs make sense to do in one round-trip. Just negotiate a price with the driver to wait for you at each site as there is no transport options available from the camel farm or cenotaphs if you get dropped off.
To get from Bikaner to Karni Mata Temple (Bikaner Rat Temple) you need to take a local bus. It is also doable by tax but much more expensive and the bus drops you right outside the main entrance to the temple anyway.
Getting there / How to get to Bikaner
Bikaner is further north in Rajasthan and although it is not as far out of the way as Jaisalmer, it isn’t quite as well connected by rail.
From Jaisalmer, the best way to get to Bikaner is by bus. And from Bikaner to Jaipur or north to Amritsar it is easy by train.
- Read our complete guide to taking trains in India and all about getting the train from Bikaner to Amritsar.
Accommodation / Where to stay in Bikaner
There is a range of accommodation in the old city of Bikaner.
We stayed at Prince Haveli. The reviews on booking.com for The Prince Haveli are fantastic and the owner Atik and his staff are very gracious hosts.
The haveli has been lovingly restored and is located right in the centre of the old city. It is a basic accommodation, but the rooms are comfortable, and it is an affordable way to experience a traditional Haveli in Bikaner.
- Check rooms, rates and availability for Prince Haveli, Bikaner.
Where else to stay in India
There are some great places to stay in India. But I’ll be the first to admit that starting out searching for accommodation in India is a bit of a needle-in-a-haystack type challenge.
These are the hotels and accommodation we use regularly on our travels in India and that we can recommend for your trip.
- Amritsar / Mid-Luxury: Hyatt Regency
We have a fabulous stay each time at the Hyatt Regency with a swimming pool, restaurant and the incredible breakfast buffet.
- Varanasi / Budget: Hotel Temple on Ganges
Great location; basic rooms and restaurant. Close to Assi Ghat – good location to explore Varanasi from.
- Jaisalmer / Budget: The Wanderlust Guesthouse
AMAZING guest-house! We love staying here and can highly recommend. Great rooms; rooftop restaurant overlooking the fort; awesome camel safaris!
- New Delhi Airport / Mid-Range: Taurus Sarovar Portico [beautiful hotel only a few km’s from Delhi International Airport. A great first stop arriving in India with buffet breakfast included and a restaurant onsite.
- Delhi / Budget: Hotel Hari Piorko
Good location in the heart of the Main Bazaar, Delhi. Close to restaurants and train station. No view from rooms.
- Delhi / Budget: Smyle Inn
Extremely basic hotel in small back alley but with very friendly, helpful staff and simple breakfast included. Just off Main Bazaar.
Where else to stay in India
- Kolkata / Budget: Hotel Golden Palace
Close to New Market with very friendly service and a great in-house room service restaurant.
- Mumbai / Budget: Gulf Hotel
Good location in Colaba few mins walk to Gateway of India. Basic rooms (and very old elevator) and very basic breakfast included. Also lots of mirrors…
- Jodhpur / Budget-Boutique: Raj Mandir Boutique Homestay
Good location in Blue City, spacious room with small balcony inside Haveli style home. Tiny little doors, lots of unique decor and artefacts.
- Jaipur / Mid-Range: Jaipur Haveli
Incredible old haveli home in heart of Jaipur. Highly recommend with beautiful rooms and great attention to detail and very friendly staff and owners.
- Agra / Mid-Homestay: Aman Homestay
Very friendly family-run homestay with rooftop views of The Taj Mahal. Great rickshaw driver service and home cooked meals.
More about travel planning for India and beyond…
These are the companies we use while traveling fulltime as a family and that we would recommend to anyone planning and booking travel.
- Booking.com – The best all-around accommodation booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation and it’s easy to filter and sort into price and availability with all the extras you are looking for personally.
- Skyscanner– This is by far our favourite flight search engine. They are able to search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites often miss. We book all our flights through Skyscanner.
- GetYourGuide– Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions offered all around the world including everything from walking tours, to street-food tours, cooking classes, desert safari’s and more!
- SafetyWing – A global travel insurance that covers people from all over the world while outside their home country. You can buy it short or longterm; and even if you are out of the country.
- World Nomads – Travel insurance tailored for longterm travel and nomads (including those who have already left home). Make sure you have travel insurance before riding those trains in India!
Read more from travel in South Asia
- How to use a squat toilet: Everything you didn’t want to ask…
- Our complete packing list for travel in India.
- Taking an overnight train in Pakistan.
- How to apply for a Pakistan e-Visa: And can you use it at the Wagah Border?
- Crossing the Wagah Border from India to Pakistan.
- Pakistan with kids: A complete guide to travel in Pakistan.
- Using ATM’s, withdrawing and carrying your money safely in India.
- Taking the train from Bikaner to Amritsar.
